Marzocchi 380 Master Thread

PB Forum :: Marzocchi
Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
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flag mcozzy
Posted: Apr 19, 2016 at 12:39 Quote
wrong info, so removed.
flag monkies
Posted: Apr 21, 2016 at 10:00 Quote
For bleeding the DBC cartridge:

http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/marzocchi-dbc-damper-1009501.html
flag henkster
Posted: Apr 24, 2016 at 17:34 Quote
mcozzy wrote:
Spring preload adjuster shown below, not my image, I nicked it off the web as I'm not taking mine apart again! I assumed the rubber buffer on the left is the elastomer.
I couldnt make out anything of interest in the fork leg when it was apart.

marzocchi 380 c2r2

The elastomer is found further down the leg under the spring and is something like 10-12cm long. Cutting it 4cm worked wonders for me with only .5-.75 inches at the end of travel ramping up hard for really big hits or drops.
flag smuggly
Posted: May 6, 2016 at 17:49 Quote
Thanks guys / girls, some really good info in here (and ridemonkey) and I have been playing around with the fork and now it's close to amazing, from a solid good from the factory.

380 C2R2 2015 here, I was finding at 150mm of travel the fork would just hit a 'wall' in travel and stop, unless I was deliberately doing some front heavy casing from reasonably high drops, but even then I never went past 160mm of travel, I weight 110kg, sag was correct. I was using significantly less travel on medium to large hits than I wanted to be, resulting in a fork that got overwhelmed very fast at speed as the tracks got more rowdy. The fork was very plush initially (once I actually greased the seals), but overall if was lacking compared to my 2012 Boxxer R2C2.

Pulled out the bottom out bumper / elastomer and cut 40mm off, since I was only getting close to 160mm of travel during max nose heavy casings, I did not what the bottom out to kick in until the last 10mm of travel or so, hence cutting 40 mm off. I considered removing it fully, but wasn't sure if harsh bottoming would occur and if this would have been potentially damaging to the fork.

Now the fork was a lot more linear in the later part of the travel, too linear - I could bottom it out (finally - yay!) by bouncing on them using full body weight. Adding some HSC compression helped to ramp up the travel during big, fast hits, but adding HSC altered high speed hits throughout the entirety of the forks travel - which had undesirable effects at slower, small to mid range hits - ie. fork was harsher and less composed = less traction, especially into chopped out berms.

I added 260ml of oil to the coil side. Effectively adding approximately another 200g to total fork weight. The bottom out bumper seems to me a light weight and simple option of ramping up the last 25% of travel, but honestly it's shit - it's a light weight by nasty method, like suddenly hitting a wall, travel just stops. I feel one of the bigger issues with forks in the last few years and performance is the weight issue, no one wants a heavier fork - less oil = less weight, but using more oil does all more tuning options, smoother fork and better durability. But catalogue weight is all powerful...

Adding an extra 200ml of oil (over the 60ml already there) makes the entire travel more progressive, but in a nice linear fashion. But the trade off is weight, hence why from the factory it's not done this way? I am still playing around with oil volume, but it effects 'Boyles Law' but further reducing the air volume in the fork as it compresses further into it's travel - more oil = more progressive travel, less oil = less progressive travel. But modifying the oil levels / volume, you can tailor the forks progression exactly as you desire. I am still playing around with oil volume but 260ml seems pretty nice, 300ml a little too progressive (might not be if I take it too somewhere with some decent sized jumps) and 200 not quite enough (at my weight).

Rider - 110kg (not my race weight, but my bench / deadlift is going great), raced pro for 4 years in the late 90's early 2000's - consider myself expert level, favor steep technical tracks or jumping. Love to tinker and record data, I am a scientist.
Fork is on a 2015 Banshee legend and is (now) well matched to the rear.

Originally:
X-frim spring + 2 turns of preload,
- around 25% sag when measuring on a decline
- max travel was just under 160mm
No HSC - there was no point only made the fork harsher late in its travel
10-12 clicks from full open for LSC
Rebound - I have no idea, on the fast side that suits trails I am riding and my style.
Fork was performing good, but not great, terrible at high speeds in the rough.

Modified:
Still running an X-frim spring,
- around 25% sag
- using 195mm of travel
2 - 2.5 full turns of HSC
10 clicks of LSC
Rebound, still no idea, feels good, tried 2-5 clicks more or less and have settled on original settings.
Bottom out bumper 40mm cut off
260ml oil coil side (15w because that's what I have)
60ml oil damper side
Fork performing significantly better at all speeds, but now it's confident inspiring at speed.
flag way2manyhobbies2keep
Posted: May 9, 2016 at 7:59 Quote
I plan to use a pipe cutter to cut the plunger on the top cap to add about an inch of travel, plan on cutting 10mm at a time
flag frampo
O+
Posted: May 9, 2016 at 9:18 Quote
im not sure why people are resorting to cutting the elastomer, im about 182lbs and have never had an issue on a firm spring, even went up to an X-firm spring at one point to try it out.
flag way2manyhobbies2keep
Posted: May 9, 2016 at 9:33 Quote
frampo wrote:
im not sure why people are resorting to cutting the elastomer, im about 182lbs and have never had an issue on a firm spring, even went up to an X-firm spring at one point to try it out.

On my 2014 the eastomer seems alot more firm then my roomates 2015/16.

Not matter what the trail, huck to flat, i only use 6" of travel and even though its not a hard bottom, it feels like it .

150lbs with 5.5 spring.

If your happy with your forks performance, don't change it, but I'm still trying to get back to the performance of my old 40
flag frampo
O+
Posted: May 9, 2016 at 11:22 Quote
I have 15 forks so maybe there were some changes which haven't been documented but I have landed quite hard on them before. Maybe my elastomer have 'worn' making it not so firm.

It's a shame that no one know what someone like pedro does to the forks for the pro riders.
flag smuggly
Posted: May 9, 2016 at 21:38 Quote
jewpowered wrote:
frampo wrote:
im not sure why people are resorting to cutting the elastomer, im about 182lbs and have never had an issue on a firm spring, even went up to an X-firm spring at one point to try it out.

On my 2014 the eastomer seems alot more firm then my roomates 2015/16.

Not matter what the trail, huck to flat, i only use 6" of travel and even though its not a hard bottom, it feels like it .

That's the exact reason why I cut mine, Now they bottom out occasionally on the biggest hits and are feeling much better at speed.
flag jazzawil
O+ FL
Posted: May 10, 2016 at 6:51 Quote
Just pulled my 2015 380c2r2 apart for a service before the park season opens. Never bottomed them out last year even with my best attempts! Decided to play with Smuggly settings a little. With the spring removed and the stocuk bumper uncut it made contact at just under 6". Cut 1" off so I still have 1" of bumper left. Kept the off cut just in case.
Trying 150cc in the spring leg for now as I'm pretty much out of oil.. and put the recommended 80cc in the damper side.

The fork came out of the box very low on oil, about one month of heavy park use I was almost ready to give up and go back to my 888r3c that was now on the e gf bike. Gave it to vorsprung and they said how the lowers we almost dry and the dbc was low on oil to. When it came back it was amazing/what it should be felt like! Just need some bottom out adjustment so hoping it will be 100% this year
Fun fact, got a 2015 350cr early this year and same again out of the box, very low on oil. Serviced it before it went on the bike and so far couldn't be happier with it. Swapped it out over the fox 36 that came on my bike for a $500 profit haha, bonus!
flag way2manyhobbies2keep
Posted: May 10, 2016 at 9:28 Quote
I am carrying some information over from monkies thread
OK got the info purging the damper:

*make sure all your rebound and compression settings are fully open*

1. you'll need a 26mm wrench to take off the DBC from the top (I took off the knobs, and used a socket).
1b. If you take the knobs off, be careful not to loose the little ball/spring in the knob.
2. pull out the compression stack, and dump the oil. cycle the piston to remove any residual oil
3. Bleed DBC: with the DBC upright, fill 7.5wt oil (I used spectra oil) near the top. Pull the piston up and down to cycle the oil into the unit.
4. Once the DBC is bled, set the oil height to 67mm from the top edge. I used a syringe, and marked off 67mm, and inserted the syringe to that mark and sucked out the excess oil.
5. Put the compression stack back on, and put the assembly back onto the stanchions.
6. Put 100mL of oil in through the bottom leg hole.

Note - the 2015 manual said to add 80mL oil, but I was told 100mL. I have a 2014 380 (manual says to add 60mL oil) and they said to also fill with 100mL of oil.

Note 2 - It doesn't seem like the oil amount matters (just my take), because the added oil volume from the manual varies by 40mL. I'm guessing you just need enough oil in the system so that it cycles through the DBC. Once you add oil into the system and seal it up, you can cycle the fork to pump the oil through the DBC. I think this would in essence bleed out the DBC as well since any air is just gonna be pushed out.
flag way2manyhobbies2keep
Posted: May 12, 2016 at 8:10 Quote
My fork is currently 90% disassembled. I am hoping to take pictures once its all clean and I start reassembly

when I spoke with NAZ at marzocchi/fox Canada, he recommended 150cc's of oil in the spring side and 110cc's in the damper.

As stated earlier, the 2014 manual said 60cc/ml, 2015+ says 80ml, and I'm not the first person to hear more is better

When removing the compression unit, DO NOT TURN HIGH SPEED ALL THE WAY OUT. this caused my compression unit to seperate and drop all the shims. The oil had them all stuck together so it was easy to re-assemble after I damn near had a heart attack and called Naz.

When re-installing the compression unit, make sure low speed compression is turned all the way out
flag djii
Posted: May 12, 2016 at 16:12 Quote
jewpowered wrote:
My fork is currently 90% disassembled. I am hoping to take pictures once its all clean and I start reassembly

when I spoke with NAZ at marzocchi/fox Canada, he recommended 150cc's of oil in the spring side and 110cc's in the damper.

As stated earlier, the 2014 manual said 60cc/ml, 2015+ says 80ml, and I'm not the first person to hear more is better

When removing the compression unit, DO NOT TURN HIGH SPEED ALL THE WAY OUT. this caused my compression unit to seperate and drop all the shims. The oil had them all stuck together so it was easy to re-assemble after I damn near had a heart attack and called Naz.

When re-installing the compression unit, make sure low speed compression is turned all the way out


Hi I just finish rebuilt mine and I have a strange noise now.

First, I put much more oïl than before so maybe is that.

Seconde, my spring start to loose is transparent protection so maybe is that.

Third, I also drop all the shim and sadly maybe mine are now mixed up.

If you can please post a real explosion view of the component.


Thanks
JF

Sorry for my English, I speak french from Quebec, CANADA.
flag amarmurthi
Posted: May 12, 2016 at 18:51 Quote
Anyone had issues with hub / brake mount compatibility? I have a burgtec 20mm hub and tried fitting my wheel, without a rotor its perfect. But when I tried a 200mm shimano xt floating rotor it rubbed right up against the fork brake mount, then I tried a 180mm magura standard rotor and it did the same thing one.. any help is appreciated, I can post pics later if needed. cheers guys!

 


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