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1x10 conversion how to? And can I do it?

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1x10 conversion how to? And can I do it?

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Posted: Jul 24, 2016 at 4:24 Quote
Currently run a 3x8 and want to change to a 1x10. Just asking what do I need to change and will a 10 speed cassette fit on my back wheel? I ride a sram rise 40? Thanks for any help.

Posted: Jul 25, 2016 at 6:02 Quote
1x conversions are the kind of thing that can either be easy or really difficult depending on the bike in question and your standards for what is acceptable.

Your rear wheel will PROBABLY accept a 10 speed cassette since many freehub bodies are 8/9/10 speed compatible.

Chainline will potentially be a big issue. The middle chainring position on the crank is probably the one you want. If your best chainline doesn't fall in the middle of the cassette when you've finished the conversion it'll probably still work okay, but it will probably want to derail or ghost shift if you pedal backwards in your granny gear. Not a big deal unless you like to pedal backwards, but to some people that's a big deal. Go figure.

Chain retention is often a problem if you don't use a narrow/wide chainring and a clutch type derailleur. Using a chain guide or an old front derailleur can help, but if you really want it to work well get a narrow/wide and clutch type derailleur. They just work better.

Most 1x conversions also involve a wide range cassette, so you may need a new derailleur made to handle that. I used a SRAM X9 long cage for awhile with a 9-42 cassette and it worked, but not as well as the Rival1 that replaced it (which was actually designed to work with 42 tooth cassettes).

FWIW, 10 speed is starting to age into obsolescence, so you may want to think about that with regard to parts compatibility. I bought that Rival 1 derailleur because it's both 10/11 speed compatible and because SRAM has stopped offering 10 speed at the high end of their mountain derailleur line. Time and the industry marches on and you can keep up or get left behind. With this in mind, I bought the E*thirteen TRS+ cassette because you can swap out the bottom end to convert from 10 to 11 speed, and the Rival 1 because it can also serve an 11 speed shifter. This way, when my shifter dies, I can still get a high end shifter even if SRAM stops offering them in 10 speed. Just sayin....

As a final note... If your bike is old enough to be a 3x8 you'll probably run into compatibility issues on an increasingly regular basis. You might be better off just buying a new bike.

Posted: Jul 27, 2016 at 2:12 Quote
Assuming your current crankset will fit a modern chainring, and your hub will fit a 10spd cassette then it should be fairly cheap and easy to convert.

You'll need:

Narrow/wide chainring to fit the bolt circle diameter of your current cranks in the middle ring position. Most are compatible with 9,10,11 spd chains,
Either a bashring or shorter chainring bolts to fit the new chainring. The bashring takes the place of the outer ring in a x2 or x3 setup.
New 10spd cassette and chain. 11/36 tooth is standard, there are range expanding sprockets available.
New 10spd shifter and mech, either short or medium cage will do.

Fit all this and you should be good to go. I've found that a 32 or 34 tooth chainring with an 11/36 cassette is fine for the stuff I ride. With a narrow/wide chainring I haven't needed a chain guide either.

Good luck.

Posted: Jul 29, 2016 at 18:46 Quote
Why not try a 1x8? You have almost everything there to do it - if your 8 speed gear is still good, why not use it?

All you would need is a narrow wide ring (in the middle position) for the front - or - a pair of bashguards (check out BBG, they are good parts and reasonably priced) and your current middle front chainring.
Links would need to be removed from the chain either way to minimize chain noise.

I have one bike with a 1x10 and clutch derailleur, with the narrow wide up front - never dropped a chain; and another full suspension bike with a 1x9, standard XTR derailleur and a bashwich up front - no chain drop there either.
The key on making a 1x work with the bashwich (and no clutch) is to make sure the inner bashguard is close enough to the chainring to keep the chain on. If you just mount the inner guard on as is, it is too far away and the chain can fall between the inner guard and the ring. I usually machine off about .090" from the pads on the 64mm dia bolt pattern to move the guard towards the chain, or you can just bend the guard towards the chain - both work. The outer bashguard is positioned fine as it sits.

All that being said, I usually run a 34 up front on both, but our area is pretty flat, and on a normal 30 mile trail ride I may not use but 3 gears on the rear.

Posted: Jul 31, 2016 at 5:41 Quote
fielonator wrote:
Assuming your current crankset will fit a modern chainring, and your hub will fit a 10spd cassette then it should be fairly cheap and easy to convert.

You'll need:

Narrow/wide chainring to fit the bolt circle diameter of your current cranks in the middle ring position. Most are compatible with 9,10,11 spd chains,
Either a bashring or shorter chainring bolts to fit the new chainring. The bashring takes the place of the outer ring in a x2 or x3 setup.
New 10spd cassette and chain. 11/36 tooth is standard, there are range expanding sprockets available.
New 10spd shifter and mech, either short or medium cage will do.

Fit all this and you should be good to go. I've found that a 32 or 34 tooth chainring with an 11/36 cassette is fine for the stuff I ride. With a narrow/wide chainring I haven't needed a chain guide either.

Good luck.


Okay thanks, what type of stuff do you ride?

Posted: Jul 31, 2016 at 14:40 Quote
[Quote="boden15"]
fielonator wrote:


Okay thanks, what type of stuff do you ride?

My local trails are on the north downs in Kent so no huge climbs but some short steep stuff, my regular route is about 13 miles and quite up and down. I also ride in the surrey hills and swinley forest a bit, again no really long climbs, but some nasty ones.

I recently rode bikepark wales without the uplift and managed to get up the singletrack and fire road climbs quite a few times, I think we did about 25 miles in total, so half of that would have been climbing.

I rarely ride on any long road sections so I haven't had trouble with running out of top end speed with this setup, and I can't remember the last time I dropped my chain.

I hope this helps.

Posted: Jul 31, 2016 at 14:54 Quote
I would just fit a narrow wide chainring and see if i am fine with those gearing.
If they are to hard id get a sunrace 10v casette and a slx derallieur with the clutch.

Posted: Aug 1, 2016 at 12:53 Quote
Can anyone this thread help with this. I have a 1 x 10. I broke my hanger and derailleur, a X9 medium cage. I replaced it with a GX as advised by a LBS and bought a new SRAM 1091PC chain. I've set it up. However, when I put force down the chain sounds like its crunching, or the derailleur is fowling, but its not. I've changed the B screw to see if it makes a difference but there still is the crunching sound when I out the power down. This make this sound at either up or down the gears on the cassette. Any ideas? Is it just the chain alignment? Or do I really need to change the chain ring and cassette too?

Posted: Aug 1, 2016 at 13:34 Quote
I had this. 1x10 wears out your drive train a lot quicker.
previously run 2x9 for the past 5 years changing my chain every 6 months, with no issues.
went to 1x10, changed my chain after 6 months but skipped when putting the power down. Ended up replacing chainring, cassette and chain.

Posted: Aug 1, 2016 at 13:46 Quote
As above the crunching is most likely down to a worn chain ring so I'd definitely consider replacing it, but the cassette might be ok if if the new chain isn't skipping.

Posted: Aug 1, 2016 at 14:27 Quote
rolandpoland wrote:
Can anyone this thread help with this. I have a 1 x 10. I broke my hanger and derailleur, a X9 medium cage. I replaced it with a GX as advised by a LBS and bought a new SRAM 1091PC chain. I've set it up. However, when I put force down the chain sounds like its crunching, or the derailleur is fowling, but its not. I've changed the B screw to see if it makes a difference but there still is the crunching sound when I out the power down. This make this sound at either up or down the gears on the cassette. Any ideas? Is it just the chain alignment? Or do I really need to change the chain ring and cassette too?

Based on what you've posted my first guess would be that you have either a worn cassette, or possibly just not a very good derailleur adjustment. Could be something else, but that's the first thing that comes to mind for me. If you have the money to do it and your old stuff has a significant number of miles on it I'd consider just getting a new cassette and chainring since you've already changed the chain. Drivetrain parts that are all about the same age generally work best since they're worn to about the same degree. Adding just one new part can sometimes upset an otherwise happy drivetrain.

Posted: Aug 1, 2016 at 15:03 Quote
Cheers lads, your opinions are all very much appreciated. I think i'll get a different LBS to look at the adjustment. If that doesnt work, ill change the chainring and and the cassette. I'm more pissed that I can't fix it. But, we live and learn. Next time, i'll have the know how. Cheers :-)

Posted: Aug 1, 2016 at 16:18 Quote
rolandpoland wrote:
Cheers lads, your opinions are all very much appreciated. I think i'll get a different LBS to look at the adjustment. If that doesnt work, ill change the chainring and and the cassette. I'm more pissed that I can't fix it. But, we live and learn. Next time, i'll have the know how. Cheers :-)

Sheldonbrown.com has some great advice for novice mechanics. You might wanna look there first. If it really is an adjustment issue you'll probably be able to figure it out on your own after doing some reading.

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