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flag sailor0231
O+ FL
Posted: Aug 1, 2016 at 8:24 Quote
I have a 2013 Niner RIP9 (size XL) that I am considering putting a works components angleset on. Currently the bike has ~69* head angle with a 140mm pike. I am looking at both 1.5* and 2* anglesets for a 67-67.5 head angle.
My riding style has been becoming more aggressive since I bought this bike, moving from XC type riding to a more enduro style. I ride trails around Seattle including tiger, duthie, tokul, kachess, ranger/palisades and do trips to bellingham, and BC when I can. I recently rode a DH bike at whistler and was quickly addicted to the increased stability in steeps and drops.
How much difference will the angleset make for this riding? Should I got 1.5 or 2 degrees? What are the downsides, the rip is already a pretty long bike, but so are all the new geometry bikes in my size. A new bike sounds great, but it isn't in the cards as we have a baby on the way.
flag shortsguy1
Posted: Aug 1, 2016 at 22:06 Quote
I have done a bunch of changes on an old Santa Cruz Blur to change the head angle, and I have gone from 69.5 to 67. I don't think there any any downsides. If you can get 2 degrees, definitely go that route. A 67 deg head angle will still climb very well, but will make the descents more fun.

My bike could only get 1 deg from the headset, but the Works headset I installed seems very good.
flag taptee
Posted: Jun 2, 2020 at 21:32 Quote
sailor0231 wrote:
I have a 2013 Niner RIP9 (size XL) that I am considering putting a works components angleset on. Currently the bike has ~69* head angle with a 140mm pike. I am looking at both 1.5* and 2* anglesets for a 67-67.5 head angle.
My riding style has been becoming more aggressive since I bought this bike, moving from XC type riding to a more enduro style. I ride trails around Seattle including tiger, duthie, tokul, kachess, ranger/palisades and do trips to bellingham, and BC when I can. I recently rode a DH bike at whistler and was quickly addicted to the increased stability in steeps and drops.
How much difference will the angleset make for this riding? Should I got 1.5 or 2 degrees? What are the downsides, the rip is already a pretty long bike, but so are all the new geometry bikes in my size. A new bike sounds great, but it isn't in the cards as we have a baby on the way.

If you are still here, how was your experience? I have a 2012 RIP9 that originally had a 140mm fork. I upgraded the fork to a Pike but opted for a 120mm and now realize how well this bike pedals and it can climb like a goat. 140mm was never fun to pedal and I was always trying to keep the front wheel from flopping.

I am thinking of going 1 or 2 degrees slack with a 130mm fork. That should keep the height down, that may help with the climbing and taming the front.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I ride in Duthie, Tiger area mostly.
flag ski-n-bike-da-east
Posted: Jun 3, 2020 at 8:06 Quote
sailor0231 wrote:
I have a 2013 Niner RIP9 (size XL) that I am considering putting a works components angleset on. Currently the bike has ~69* head angle with a 140mm pike. I am looking at both 1.5* and 2* anglesets for a 67-67.5 head angle.
My riding style has been becoming more aggressive since I bought this bike, moving from XC type riding to a more enduro style. I ride trails around Seattle including tiger, duthie, tokul, kachess, ranger/palisades and do trips to bellingham, and BC when I can. I recently rode a DH bike at whistler and was quickly addicted to the increased stability in steeps and drops.
How much difference will the angleset make for this riding? Should I got 1.5 or 2 degrees? What are the downsides, the rip is already a pretty long bike, but so are all the new geometry bikes in my size. A new bike sounds great, but it isn't in the cards as we have a baby on the way.

I would go with the 2 degree headset because a 67.5 degree head angle is still conservative compared to modern bikes. What it will do: slacken your head angle, which means more stability and confidence on the decents, but you might notice the front wheel “wanders” a little more, but it shouldn’t really be a problem with a 67.5 hta. It will also strepen your seat tube angle, which puts you in a better climbing position. Lastly, it will drop your bottom bracket height a few mm, making your bike feel a little more stable. I think it is a worthwhile upgrade. Another thing you can do is get offset bushings, which pretty much replicate your shock having sag, even though your shock is fully extended. I’m sure other people can explain it better, but what it does is slacken headtube angle, seat tube angle, and lower bottom bracket.
flag Cerberus75
Posted: Jun 3, 2020 at 9:29 Quote
Unless you want to be able to adjust the headset. Get the Works headset. Its great, well made and dosen't creak. The Cane Creek one creaks a lot.
flag taptee
Posted: Jun 3, 2020 at 21:43 Quote
Thanks y’all! I didn’t expect a quick response on this ancient thread Smile

My concern is with negatively impacting climbing as I am absolutely in love with my bike after putting a 120mm fork again.

I ran some calculations with 2 degree slack it will increase the trail from 74 to 91 approx. with a 130mm fork, with keeping the same stack height.

Not sure if that increase in trail will give it a handling of a truck.

I have the 42mm offset pike, so that should help bring the wheel hub closer to handlebars. I guess only one way to find out ...

Was hoping someone has done this on a RIP and can share first hand experience.
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jun 3, 2020 at 23:17 Quote
The effect of trail increases with speed, so it's not the most significant factor in climbing. To improve handling when climbing, you need to get your centre of mass away from the rear contact point so that changes in direction can quickly place the bike back under your centre of mass.

Your centre of mass must, on average, be located along the line connecting your front and rear contact points.

If your centre of mass is nearly over the rear contact point, a slight wobble in your balance would require a large swing of this line to position the line back under your centre of mass. If your centre of mass is nearly over the front contact point, it take almost no forward movement - just a quick steering input - to put the front wheel under your centre of mass.

Moving the front wheel forward has a negative effect on climbing handling, but it's minor. Moving your centre of mass forward is where the real improvement happens, so move your saddle forward, lower the saddle's nose, get a saddle with a wider midsection and nose that allows you to scoot forward, lower the front end to steepen the seat-tube angle ... anything you can do to move forward.
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