You guys don’t have an issue with the internal cable routing entry into the headtube breaking the shifting housing?
I see as many of these demos single speeded as geared, figured everyone just got fed up with breaking their shifting cable housing.
I see the internal routing hasn’t changed on the new demo though, vital had a video of the cables rattling into the headtube, so maybe it’s not as big of a problem as I thought.
I've had no cable issues on 4 years of this bike, infact I think the same cable has moved across 2 demos of mine over 2 years.
Regarding the looks of the new one, I think it's good looking.
Though I have a feeling this will end up as a carbon version, but not until they have figured out if they are gonna stick with 29/29 or go 29/27 after all the current WC success, then commit to making the carbon version.
Specualtion of course but I think some logic to it.
I think this latest design is going to hurt them tbh. Afterall they are a bike manufacture first.
The unique selling point for the demo was it's look's. I also think the price for the latest model is too much especially for an alloy. I get it has high-end component's. But when you can get a carbon for less than 5K with similar spec's it doesn't make sense and for a frame design that doesn't look as complex as the previous generations.
Yeah the looks were some thing special no doubt, one of the best looking bikes ever in my opinion, but they also got mighty high praise in every review I read which sealed it for me.
Checked another Specialized dealer yesterday, their FSR tool kit also didn't include a tool for the main pivot bearing. The mechanic called Specialized tech support, and was told there is not a special tool for that bearing. They suggested we try Wheels Manufacturing, but I'd already had, and they don't make an extractor that big.
I just think this is bonkers. I've extracted bearings this way before, taping them from behind, and while it works ok most of the time, it's hardly ideal. It's much better to spread the force evenly rather than tapping a little bit here and there, around in a circle. While trying to get a punch or screwdriver into the 1mm space between the sleeve and bearing.
And if the inner race does separate, which is entirely possible (even likely?), it's a Dremel tool or a machine shop to try to remove the outer race. And that's totally ridiculous.
I'm planning to have a go at it after work today. Crossing my fingers...
CarolineHix wrote:
That's basically your choice on how to remove any bearing. Either tap em out or pull them.
On your point tho, i think their kit must include an adaptor for an expanding bolt/insert/bushing in this case being 50mm (inner diameter) Not sure what they do if the bearing is broken or maybe they have one for the outer race as well (62mm)
If you wanna go the pulling route then yeh you'd probably need to look into car bearing extraction tool's. The official specialized kit is in the £££ hundreds.. you really wanna spend that for something you may only need to do a few times ?
It's your choice. Im just saying, its possible to get them out even if you only see like half a mm of something to hit. Also what is your plan for installing new ones ?
That's actually pretty crazy not only that their own toolkit doesnt have a solution for extract/install but they don't have any method of doing so (Altho they must have a vice or press at the factory ??). I guess for specialized its just about selling the bike, if you get any problems it's on you to fix it unless you damage the frame itself and only then will provide a replacement for a reduced price ?
To be fair, it would be like getting a puncture and expecting specialized to deal with it.. They don't make the bearings just use them.
I think you will be fine tho, just take your time in whatever method you plan to go with. Good luck
I was more concerned than I needed to be - it was pretty easy to tap the bearings out from behind. The inner sleeve had enough up/down wiggle to let me get a punch on the bearing pretty solidly, and they came out in one piece without much effort. I had sprayed both with WD40 the day before, just in case, since it would help if there was any corrosion making them stickier.
To put the new ones back in I used a headset press that had "faces" that were >65mm. Pushed the bearings in flush with the frame, then carefully put the old bearings against the new ones and tightened some more to push the new bearings all the way in (they're recessed into the frame about 1mm or so).
Still think it's kind of bonkers that there aren't proper tools for this, but thankfully it all worked out fine. Maybe we'll get >5 months of life out of this pair of bearings (if we can avoid super muddy races and pressure washers).
CarolineHix wrote:
That's actually pretty crazy not only that their own toolkit doesnt have a solution for extract/install but they don't have any method of doing so (Altho they must have a vice or press at the factory ??). I guess for specialized its just about selling the bike, if you get any problems it's on you to fix it unless you damage the frame itself and only then will provide a replacement for a reduced price ?
To be fair, it would be like getting a puncture and expecting specialized to deal with it.. They don't make the bearings just use them.
I think you will be fine tho, just take your time in whatever method you plan to go with. Good luck
Haha the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree. Can definately see some similarities there.
I sold my s-works yesterday for a good price so the demo29 is a possible candidate depending on what deal I can get. Commencal are offering a supreme 29 in top spec (grip2 fox 40s & dhx2) for basically the same price I sold the demo8 for!
Haha the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree. Can definately see some similarities there.
I sold my s-works yesterday for a good price so the demo29 is a possible candidate depending on what deal I can get. Commencal are offering a supreme 29 in top spec (grip2 fox 40s & dhx2) for basically the same price I sold the demo8 for!