Kona Process 153 forum

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Kona Process 153 forum
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Posted: Mar 4, 2024 at 8:53 Quote
Hey everyone. I am wanting to buy a gen 2 P153. I want to mullet the frame but I cannot decide which configuration would be the smarter way to go.
I want to run 160mm of travel for my fork. I know I can add a 27.5 wheel to the 29er frame, but I dont know if BB height will be too low. Seems like it would just scrape by. Or if running a 29er wheel in the front with 160mm will be too much for a 27.5 frame.
Was just wondering if anyone has tried the 160mm 29er setup with the 27.5 frame? Im not the best at math so I dont even know what the angles would be for the 27.5 frame. The 29 frame with a 27.5 wheel is much easier to figure out.
Any input would be helpful. Thank you!

I also do a lot of climbing. I can power through bad climbing characteristics. But I just want to be safe on downhills without feeling like something is wonky.

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Posted: Mar 6, 2024 at 6:57 Quote
I ran a 2016 27.5 134 with a 140 29er RSGold 35 and -2deg works angleset. It recovered some of the reduced seat angle and lowered BB height again slightly. Downhill it was great, the benefit in rollover worth the compromise (for me), but for sure climbing with the increased stack height wasn’t great. I’ll be frank, steep tech stuff sucked. I swapped the stem to 50 (from 40) to increase front wheel traction. So the front felt lazy with wheel flop, but at least didn’t lose confidence downhill. Personally, I don’t think I’d mullet a 29er as I agree the BB height loss would be too low. But I was able to live with the increased stack height and reduced seat angle of the 27.5 frame. I also ran the bike with the -2deg angleset and 160 27.5 fork, which was similar stack height, maybe slightly less than the 29er setup. Downhill I preferred the 29er setup for front wheel confidence.

You could try a 150 29er fork on the front of a 27.5 frame to recover some stack height, but still get the benefits of increased rollover in the front and mullet backend for playfulness...

Posted: Mar 20, 2024 at 8:14 Quote
hey yall I've been looking at getting a coil rear shock for my 2022 kona process 153. I was looking to see if I could change it to a 160 without a cascade link? I was also wondering if I should stick to the rock shox super deluxe coil or a different one and I would like to see yalls thoughts on that coil.

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Posted: Apr 15, 2024 at 10:35 Quote
Hi,

I have purchased a 2023 Process 153 last December.

Today I have been trying to remove the rear wheel without success.

I see that I have to turn the 6mm hex key clockwise as it says so on the axel cap. However, nothing happens. Not even a microscopie movement.

No hex keys fit on the non-drive side. I don't know why there is a mention of 10Nm.

How can I remove this rear axle?

It's brand new as I have yet to ride this bike.

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THX

Posted: Apr 15, 2024 at 10:49 Quote
I believe the thru axle has 6 mm hex fittings on both ends? If it's really stuck you might need to use two hex keys at once, one on each end. Of course the one on the disc side needs to turn counterclockwise while the one on the derailleur side needs to turn clockwise. Make sure to use high-quality tools that fit in the thru axle with very little or no play. It'll probably take a lot of torque and suddenly come loose with a crack, so watch where your knuckles are aiming. A little spritz of penetrating oil onto both ends of the thru axle might help, too (just don't let it get on your brake).

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Posted: Apr 15, 2024 at 10:55 Quote
barp wrote:
I believe the thru axle has 6 mm hex fittings on both ends? If it's really stuck you might need to use two hex keys at once, one on each end. Of course the one on the disc side needs to turn counterclockwise while the one on the derailleur side needs to turn clockwise. Make sure to use high-quality tools that fit in the thru axle with very little or no play. It'll probably take a lot of torque and suddenly come loose with a crack, so watch where your knuckles are aiming. A little spritz of penetrating oil onto both ends of the thru axle might help, too (just don't let it get on your brake).

5 and 6mm don't grab on the disc side. Not sure what should be done on this side and the purpose of the 10Nm.

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Posted: Apr 15, 2024 at 12:42 Quote
[Quote="Evil-Sylvain"]
barp wrote:

5 and 6mm don't grab on the disc side. Not sure what should be done on this side and the purpose of the 10Nm.

Have you tried an 8mm? 10Nm it's quite high for a 6mm (by convention rather than limitation)
10nm is just the correct torque for the axle to minimise the risk of it unthreading in use or stripping the head out threads.

O+
Posted: Apr 15, 2024 at 13:33 Quote
[Quote="Bleatbleat"]
Evil-Sylvain wrote:
barp wrote:

5 and 6mm don't grab on the disc side. Not sure what should be done on this side and the purpose of the 10Nm.

Have you tried an 8mm? 10Nm it's quite high for a 6mm (by convention rather than limitation)
10nm is just the correct torque for the axle to minimise the risk of it unthreading in use or stripping the head out threads.

Thanks. I tried ane it doesn't fit. I talked with the tech where I purchased the bike. He also told me it's not meant to put a tool.

I will bring him the bike next weekend and le them deal with this.

Posted: Apr 15, 2024 at 16:51 Quote
Evil-Sylvain wrote:
Hi,

I have purchased a 2023 Process 153 last December.

Today I have been trying to remove the rear wheel without success.

I see that I have to turn the 6mm hex key clockwise as it says so on the axel cap. However, nothing happens. Not even a microscopie movement.

No hex keys fit on the non-drive side. I don't know why there is a mention of 10Nm.

How can I remove this rear axle?

It's brand new as I have yet to ride this bike.

photo
photo

THX



Hey man. Theres a small rubber O ring on that non drive side axel thats preventing you from getting your 6m hex key in there. Shove it in. It takes force. Turn counter clockwise untill axel walks out. Enjoi

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Posted: Apr 16, 2024 at 4:29 Quote
trobudden wrote:


Hey man. Theres a small rubber O ring on that non drive side axel thats preventing you from getting your 6m hex key in there. Shove it in. It takes force. Turn counter clockwise untill axel walks out. Enjoi

I will try that after work. Thanks!

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Posted: Apr 16, 2024 at 17:00 Quote
trobudden wrote:
Hey man. Theres a small rubber O ring on that non drive side axel thats preventing you from getting your 6m hex key in there. Shove it in. It takes force. Turn counter clockwise untill axel walks out. Enjoi

It works! Thank you so much. Do you know what is the purpose of the O ring?

photo

Posted: Apr 16, 2024 at 17:19 Quote
Evil-Sylvain wrote:
It works! Thank you so much. Do you know what is the purpose of the O ring?

There are bikes that come with a removable handle for their thru-axle: a lever with a stubby 6 mm hex on one end. In these, the O-ring keeps the handle from falling out when riding. I'm guessing this thru-axle was originally meant to come with one of those handles.

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Posted: Apr 17, 2024 at 4:10 Quote
barp wrote:
Evil-Sylvain wrote:
It works! Thank you so much. Do you know what is the purpose of the O ring?

There are bikes that come with a removable handle for their thru-axle: a lever with a stubby 6 mm hex on one end. In these, the O-ring keeps the handle from falling out when riding. I'm guessing this thru-axle was originally meant to come with one of those handles.

Thanks. Never had one of those.

Posted: Apr 17, 2024 at 9:03 Quote
Evil-Sylvain wrote:
barp wrote:
Evil-Sylvain wrote:
It works! Thank you so much. Do you know what is the purpose of the O ring?

There are bikes that come with a removable handle for their thru-axle: a lever with a stubby 6 mm hex on one end. In these, the O-ring keeps the handle from falling out when riding. I'm guessing this thru-axle was originally meant to come with one of those handles.

Thanks. Never had one of those.

Beer Glad it all worked out in the end!

Posted: Apr 19, 2024 at 13:23 Quote
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Process 153 XL, Zeb select 170


 


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