Ripmo AF Thread

PB Forum :: Ibis
Ripmo AF Thread
Author Message
Posted: Dec 15, 2021 at 9:54 Quote
Snowrydr01 wrote:
domdb wrote:
The short answer is, 170 fox 36 up front, 8.5x2.5 X2 out back with a single offset bushing. Sag set so the bike sits at almost the same point as when its 160/141 so kinematics stay the same. Rear travel is balanced with additional 10mm up travel and 10mm down travel.

Are you running the cascade link or just an offset bushing? You've also probably answered this before but how does the fox stuff compare to dvo?

Just the offset bushing, i was worried the cascade link would give too much travel and have interference.

the fork is 36 performance which isnt a fair comparison since its much less adjustable,

The x2 in the back is a 2019 and is pretty damn good at hugging the ground.[/Quote]

So you're saying you prefer the dvo fork over the 36 but prefer the x2, right?

Posted: Dec 15, 2021 at 10:40 Quote
domdb wrote:
Snowrydr01 wrote:
domdb wrote:
The short answer is, 170 fox 36 up front, 8.5x2.5 X2 out back with a single offset bushing. Sag set so the bike sits at almost the same point as when its 160/141 so kinematics stay the same. Rear travel is balanced with additional 10mm up travel and 10mm down travel.

Are you running the cascade link or just an offset bushing? You've also probably answered this before but how does the fox stuff compare to dvo?

Just the offset bushing, i was worried the cascade link would give too much travel and have interference.

the fork is 36 performance which isnt a fair comparison since its much less adjustable,

The x2 in the back is a 2019 and is pretty damn good at hugging the ground.

So you're saying you prefer the dvo fork over the 36 but prefer the x2, right?[/Quote]

The 36 is fine for bike park stuff, i actually preferred the diamond when it was just a trail bike. The only reason i swapped the 36 on was because it could go up to 170, i had no drive to upgrade the diamond. I just rebuilt it and its going onto a third bike in a month or so.

Posted: Dec 16, 2021 at 20:58 Quote
What's the consensus on using progressive springs on the Jade-X coil on the Ripmo AF? If you've tried them, how do you like them compared to the linear spring? I'm on a 450 linear and like it, but thinking of trying the 425-500 Prorate progressive. I'm probably 167-170 all geared up. Thoughts?
(I tried searching through and reading a bunch of previous posts, but it's a lot to go through)

Posted: Dec 17, 2021 at 6:00 Quote
Emailed IBIS about running a 170mm fork just to see if they'd divulge anything:

"HI Jesse,
The max fork travel on a Ripmo AF is 160mm.
Best,
-Chuck"

Posted: Dec 17, 2021 at 7:31 Quote
jesse-effing-edwards wrote:
Emailed IBIS about running a 170mm fork just to see if they'd divulge anything:

"HI Jesse,
The max fork travel on a Ripmo AF is 160mm.
Best,
-Chuck"
Yep, if you tell them you're running 170, it will void your warranty. Same with divulging that you're running the Cascade Link. Mum's the word.

Posted: Dec 17, 2021 at 8:26 Quote
mammal wrote:
jesse-effing-edwards wrote:
Emailed IBIS about running a 170mm fork just to see if they'd divulge anything:

"HI Jesse,
The max fork travel on a Ripmo AF is 160mm.
Best,
-Chuck"
Yep, if you tell them you're running 170, it will void your warranty. Same with divulging that you're running the Cascade Link. Mum's the word.

Seems crazy to me the EWS folk bash down trails 170 and then just won't say anything. The frame feels like a tank to me, but am still worried as I only want it for park season, but maybe 10mm just isn't that big a deal.

Posted: Dec 17, 2021 at 9:02 Quote
jesse-effing-edwards wrote:
mammal wrote:
jesse-effing-edwards wrote:
Emailed IBIS about running a 170mm fork just to see if they'd divulge anything:

"HI Jesse,
The max fork travel on a Ripmo AF is 160mm.
Best,
-Chuck"
Yep, if you tell them you're running 170, it will void your warranty. Same with divulging that you're running the Cascade Link. Mum's the word.

Seems crazy to me the EWS folk bash down trails 170 and then just won't say anything. The frame feels like a tank to me, but am still worried as I only want it for park season, but maybe 10mm just isn't that big a deal.

I'm not surprised at all. Ibis only wants to warranty the bikes that break running the configurations they extensively tested for bringing the bike to market. The EWS guys probably have plenty of spare frame components when needed, but that doesn't mean that Ibis wants to increase the amount of frame warranty claims from 3% to 5%. Those are just theoretical numbers, but the result would probably be a non-trivial increase of warranty frames to provide.

Posted: Dec 17, 2021 at 9:41 Quote
SquatchOut wrote:
What's the consensus on using progressive springs on the Jade-X coil on the Ripmo AF? If you've tried them, how do you like them compared to the linear spring? I'm on a 450 linear and like it, but thinking of trying the 425-500 Prorate progressive. I'm probably 167-170 all geared up. Thoughts?
(I tried searching through and reading a bunch of previous posts, but it's a lot to go through)

I just got a RipmoAF with jade X. Came with a 600lb coil and I am 205lbs plus gear.

Compared to my yeti 5.5 with dpx2 tuned by avalanche which I sold.. this RIPMO AF with my current set up is quite harsh even with the coil and extra travel.

I swapped over to a 500-600lb progressive coil which was much better than the 600 and i have not bottomed out yet. It still feels like the rear wheel gets hung up in terrain, a jarring ride.

At this point I am not sure if its spring rate, damping, or progressivity I need to change. No idea.

I am not sure if I could go lighter on the coil given my weight. I think next step is try a cascade link and a 475-550 ish weight coil. Or i can switch to an air shock...

What is everyone else's experience?

Posted: Dec 17, 2021 at 10:12 Quote
bcpblurker wrote:
I just got a RipmoAF with jade X. Came with a 600lb coil and I am 205lbs plus gear.

Compared to my yeti 5.5 with dpx2 tuned by avalanche which I sold.. this RIPMO AF with my current set up is quite harsh even with the coil and extra travel.

I swapped over to a 500-600lb progressive coil which was much better than the 600 and i have not bottomed out yet. It still feels like the rear wheel gets hung up in terrain, a jarring ride.

At this point I am not sure if its spring rate, damping, or progressivity I need to change. No idea.

I am not sure if I could go lighter on the coil given my weight. I think next step is try a cascade link and a 475-550 ish weight coil. Or i can switch to an air shock...

What is everyone else's experience?

I can't comment on the Jade-X or progressive springs (I'm on the Topaz). But one thing I found with the stock RAF was that it would tend to "hang up" a little bit while flying into/over obstacles where I'd expect the rear wheel to swing out of the way very easily. It's a bit hard to explain, but I'd notice it most when the bike was slightly unweighted and hitting something chunky. The cascade link really helped with that, with how it changed the leverage curve around the sag point region (it's usually mentioned for the added progressiveness at the end - also good). I find the beginning to mid-stroke is more supple in a good way, with the CL installed. Just food for thought, but your situation may be related to progressive coils, damping, or spring rates, I'm not sure.

Posted: Dec 17, 2021 at 10:59 Quote
mammal wrote:
jesse-effing-edwards wrote:
mammal wrote:

Yep, if you tell them you're running 170, it will void your warranty. Same with divulging that you're running the Cascade Link. Mum's the word.

Seems crazy to me the EWS folk bash down trails 170 and then just won't say anything. The frame feels like a tank to me, but am still worried as I only want it for park season, but maybe 10mm just isn't that big a deal.

I'm not surprised at all. Ibis only wants to warranty the bikes that break running the configurations they extensively tested for bringing the bike to market. The EWS guys probably have plenty of spare frame components when needed, but that doesn't mean that Ibis wants to increase the amount of frame warranty claims from 3% to 5%. Those are just theoretical numbers, but the result would probably be a non-trivial increase of warranty frames to provide.

you and your logic!

Posted: Dec 17, 2021 at 11:17 Quote
My RAF was amazeballs on a super deluxe + cascade link but not supportive enough deeper in the stroke on coil + stock link.

I’d say stock link + progressive spring or cascade + standard spring for coil lovers.

I’m still experimenting with shock swaps and tuning to get my v1 sentinel + cascade to feel as good as the RAF.

Posted: Dec 17, 2021 at 12:58 Quote
mammal wrote:
bcpblurker wrote:
I just got a RipmoAF with jade X. Came with a 600lb coil and I am 205lbs plus gear.

Compared to my yeti 5.5 with dpx2 tuned by avalanche which I sold.. this RIPMO AF with my current set up is quite harsh even with the coil and extra travel.

I swapped over to a 500-600lb progressive coil which was much better than the 600 and i have not bottomed out yet. It still feels like the rear wheel gets hung up in terrain, a jarring ride.

At this point I am not sure if its spring rate, damping, or progressivity I need to change. No idea.

I am not sure if I could go lighter on the coil given my weight. I think next step is try a cascade link and a 475-550 ish weight coil. Or i can switch to an air shock...

What is everyone else's experience?

I can't comment on the Jade-X or progressive springs (I'm on the Topaz). But one thing I found with the stock RAF was that it would tend to "hang up" a little bit while flying into/over obstacles where I'd expect the rear wheel to swing out of the way very easily. It's a bit hard to explain, but I'd notice it most when the bike was slightly unweighted and hitting something chunky. The cascade link really helped with that, with how it changed the leverage curve around the sag point region (it's usually mentioned for the added progressiveness at the end - also good). I find the beginning to mid-stroke is more supple in a good way, with the CL installed. Just food for thought, but your situation may be related to progressive coils, damping, or spring rates, I'm not sure.

ditto what mammal said.

but also... whaaaaa?! At 205 you need to be on approximately a 575 spring to get sag in the ballpark of 30%. I'm 225-230 locked and loaded and 600# gave me close to 30% sag and when I tried DVO's 575-700 prorate spring I blew through the first half of the travel way too fast as I was starting at like 35% sag. I was always bouncing off the end of the travel hitting the ramp zone at the very end all the time at moderate speeds on moderate terrain.

If I were you I'd check sag. Slide your bottom out bumper up the shaft (even if you have to uninstall to do that) then carefully weight the installed shock and use the bumper as your sag measurement. 16.5mm is 30% sag so look for 16-17mm. If your prorate spring starts at 500# then you've got to be over 40% sag.

My Jade-X was absolute butter on the undersprung for me but progressive 575-700 spring. But I agree when the bike is pitched forward with weight shifting around that it can be hard or at least noticeable for the rear wheel to get into the travel, meaning you'll feel the bumps.

Thankfully Cascade Components has come to the rescue.

Posted: Dec 18, 2021 at 6:38 Quote
Yeah i experience the same. This bike was designed to have your center of gravity directly over the bottom bracket. If you shift it slightly forward during descents and hit square edge impacts you will feel the bike buck.

Posted: Dec 18, 2021 at 8:15 Quote
*** SHOCK HARDWARE QUESTION ***
Anybody have an exploded view or detailed photos of the Shock Hardware Installation? I bought a Factory Float X2 to replace the DVO and want to make sure I swapped everything over correctly.
The owner of Ibis “Chuck” said they didn’t have any exploded views, pictures or instructions.


 
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