Ripmo AF Thread

PB Forum :: Ibis
Ripmo AF Thread
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flag yetiboyjay
Posted: Jul 14, 2023 at 8:22 Quote
I’m selling my RAF if anyone is interested. I’d also split the bike if the frame / shock / fork went first.

It’s on the classifieds - but I’d talk about offers via PM.

UK BASED.
flag Turpsicle
Posted: Jul 21, 2023 at 0:39 Quote
mammal wrote:
... improvements to be gained in the steep and rough. Part of that is amount of rear travel, but it's also due to the fairly linear leverage curve of the RAF and slight lack of frame stiffness. I'm definitely willing to sacrifice some pedaling performance for gains in those departments.

I ended up getting the XL Capra MX, which gives me a bit more reach over the Large RAF, slightly longer stays, and a chance to try out the mullet.

I've had a blast the last 3 seasons between the Alps and Italian/French bike parks but I also agree. Jumped on my friend's Meta AM and the same trails were almost boring

If/when the HD6 AF comes along I'll be tempted.
-cascadified leverage curve
-burlier everything
-more rear travel
-try mullet since I'm a shortass
flag Turpsicle
Posted: Jul 21, 2023 at 1:10 Quote
Since we're doing bike checks as well:
SLX at birth, in hindsight Deore would have been fine. DVO Jade X and Onyx are perfect for me.

Favourite upgrades/gamechangers/conversation starters:
_155mm Canfield cranks
_SQ Lab 18° sweep bars
_Cascade link
_Foam grips
_ "cheap" Bontrager carbon rims, heavy but tough.

The rest:
Shorter cranks led to absolute black oval chainring and E13 helix wide range cassette. They do the job but cost/fun ratio is not good.

I needed a new spring to match the Cascade link, the Sprindex was cheap and light and let me sample a range, I now leave it set at the heaviest weight ~60 pound more than the original spring.

Problems:
One linkage bolt was missing on delivery, the same one was lost again in the first year and stripped the thread, new "crash replacement" triangle bought. Lesson learned, all bolts now have a paint pen alignment mark and are checked regularly.

CSU creak. It happens, replaced no problems on warranty from DVO.

Looks like I'll ride it till it dies now or the hd6 gets cheap/AF
flag jesse-effing-edwards
O+
Posted: Jul 21, 2023 at 7:35 Quote
Turpsicle wrote:
Since we're doing bike checks as well:
SLX at birth, in hindsight Deore would have been fine. DVO Jade X and Onyx are perfect for me.

Favourite upgrades/gamechangers/conversation starters:
_155mm Canfield cranks
_SQ Lab 18° sweep bars
_Cascade link
_Foam grips
_ "cheap" Bontrager carbon rims, heavy but tough.



CSU creak. It happens, replaced no problems on warranty from DVO.

Looks like I'll ride it till it dies now or the hd6 gets cheap/AF

I really should have looked into the warranty on the csu.. two years later it was being serviced by suspensionwerx and wasn't really sure how to facilitate that. Pricy mistake! still have the old one, wonder if they would accept that haha
flag stolenteg
Posted: Jul 23, 2023 at 17:05 Quote
Anyone tried the 8.5x2.5 dvo jade x on a medium af with offset bushing in the rear eyelet?

Wanting to try this for 170/170 if possible

Also, is this the ofset bushing I need for the rear in 20x8

https://www.merlincycles.com/profin-offset-mtb-shock-bushings-208185.html?app_clickref=1100lwWDGshE&source=PHG&utm_medium=Affiliates&utm_campaign=skimlinks_phg&app_clickref=1100lwWDItaF&source=PHG&utm_medium=Affiliates&utm_campaign=skimlinks_phg
flag Cyrusmb
Posted: Oct 8, 2023 at 5:36 Quote
mammal wrote:
13en wrote:
photo

took this bolt out curious if there was bearings or bushings there, but now it will not start threading back in... cleaned out the threads and still wont, anyone else had this problem??

I'd advise to remove all the linkage, and reassemble that link to the front/rear frames first. Also, leave those link screws a bit loose until all 4 are in place. Then reassemble everything else. Ive found its really easy to strip the female threads in the frame if you just screw it in.

Depending on how well aligned everything is, this may not be necessary. But I've reassembled mine many many times, and that's always what I need to do.
This has just happened on my frame, if worst comes to worst, how did you fix the stripped thread on your frame, with heli coil or time sert? Or did you just re chase the thread.
flag mammal
O+
Posted: Oct 8, 2023 at 7:29 Quote
Cyrusmb wrote:
mammal wrote:
13en wrote:
photo

took this bolt out curious if there was bearings or bushings there, but now it will not start threading back in... cleaned out the threads and still wont, anyone else had this problem??

I'd advise to remove all the linkage, and reassemble that link to the front/rear frames first. Also, leave those link screws a bit loose until all 4 are in place. Then reassemble everything else. Ive found its really easy to strip the female threads in the frame if you just screw it in.

Depending on how well aligned everything is, this may not be necessary. But I've reassembled mine many many times, and that's always what I need to do.
This has just happened on my frame, if worst comes to worst, how did you fix the stripped thread on your frame, with heli coil or time sert? Or did you just re chase the thread.
My threads were all still usable, and still are, so I didn't need to chase my threads or resort to anything drastic. I'd suggest removing everything, cleaning out and closely inspecting that damage thread, then seeing if you can carefully insert the bolt without the link in place. You might be able to work it back into shape that way. Otherwise, perhaps a tap set and a steady experienced hand would help. I'd worry about using a helicoil there, since you need to drill a pretty huge hole for that, and you'd remove quite a bit of material around that pivot mount.
flag Cyrusmb
Posted: Oct 8, 2023 at 15:45 Quote
mammal wrote:
Cyrusmb wrote:
mammal wrote:


I'd advise to remove all the linkage, and reassemble that link to the front/rear frames first. Also, leave those link screws a bit loose until all 4 are in place. Then reassemble everything else. Ive found its really easy to strip the female threads in the frame if you just screw it in.

Depending on how well aligned everything is, this may not be necessary. But I've reassembled mine many many times, and that's always what I need to do.
This has just happened on my frame, if worst comes to worst, how did you fix the stripped thread on your frame, with heli coil or time sert? Or did you just re chase the thread.
My threads were all still usable, and still are, so I didn't need to chase my threads or resort to anything drastic. I'd suggest removing everything, cleaning out and closely inspecting that damage thread, then seeing if you can carefully insert the bolt without the link in place. You might be able to work it back into shape that way. Otherwise, perhaps a tap set and a steady experienced hand would help. I'd worry about using a helicoil there, since you need to drill a pretty huge hole for that, and you'd remove quite a bit of material around that pivot mount.
Thanks for the help. What was the thread in yours look like? Did it have loads of glitter coming out or mostly still there? All the material on mine is there but it is quite shiny and the bolt just comes to a stop when tightening, didn’t dare fight it with even a small amount of force with an allen key. I bought an M10x1 tap and I am wondering whether I do it myself or get a shop to do it, probably a shop as I’ve never done any tapping before. If my frame thread ends up stripped then it’s a new front triangle/full frame for me? If worse comes to worst im not sure warranty for part payed replacement would work as I’m not the original owner nor do I have the original proof of purchase. Cheers
flag justinmiller760
Posted: Oct 8, 2023 at 16:23 Quote
I’m curious what weights y’all are getting with your setups. My 2023 with the Z1 Coil is down to 33.6lbs without pedals. I try not to weight weenie too much on an AF frame but I definitely notice the change from stock weight! I believe mine was 35lbs when new.
flag Turpsicle
Posted: Nov 4, 2023 at 14:38 Quote
justinmiller760 wrote:
I’m curious what weights y’all are getting with your setups. My 2023 with the Z1 Coil is down to 33.6lbs without pedals. I try not to weight weenie too much on an AF frame but I definitely notice the change from stock weight! I believe mine was 35lbs when new.

34lbs no pedals hanging on the luggage scale tonight, DH Contis and a Tannus insert in the rear.
I guess the carbon rims are lighter after all?
flag jesse-effing-edwards
O+
Posted: Nov 4, 2023 at 15:22 Quote
I have a coil and a 170mm 38. Won't be going near a scale haha
flag Kmccann137
O+
Posted: Nov 5, 2023 at 8:45 Quote
jesse-effing-edwards wrote:
I have a coil and a 170mm 38. Won't be going near a scale haha

Wow that must be a bike park slayer
flag jesse-effing-edwards
O+
Posted: Nov 5, 2023 at 15:11 Quote
Ive only ever had the coil. The bike still feels playful to me even in comparison to my short travel bike. It's fun in park but still doesn't feel "big". Im very interesting in an HD6 AF ....
flag estinehart
Posted: Nov 20, 2023 at 4:36 Quote
I know this is the AF thread but I have a question related to carbon. I have chance to buy a carbon Ripmo V2 frame at a great price but I don’t want to waste my moneys if the upgrade isn’t worth it. Has anyone made the jump to carbon, and, if so, is it worth it?
flag yetiboyjay
Posted: Nov 20, 2023 at 6:59 Quote
estinehart wrote:
I know this is the AF thread but I have a question related to carbon. I have chance to buy a carbon Ripmo V2 frame at a great price but I don’t want to waste my moneys if the upgrade isn’t worth it. Has anyone made the jump to carbon, and if so, is it worth it?

Yes worth it. Carbon is lighter and rides better (for me). I really like the stiffness you get from Carbon and the highly strung feel.

 


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