SHIMANO ROTORS ON SRAM CODE RSCs

PB Forum :: All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country
SHIMANO ROTORS ON SRAM CODE RSCs
  • Previous Page
Author Message
flag noelmm
Posted: Jul 25, 2020 at 14:41 Quote
Hi everyone,

Lately I've been having problems with my braking and as said in the title, I run Code RCSs (with some decent life left on my metallic pads) on my enduro bike.

Whenever I get to some steep downhill where you just can't let go off the brakes mine tend to fade really fast, they have less and less power.

They make too much noise and I just don't have the confidence I need to finish my run, is it possible to run shimano Icetech rotors with Sram Calipers?

Also, any advice on what pads to use for the most stopping power?

I understand they are Downhill brakes and I see no need to get rid of them, but if I can get more efficiency out of them I'd really appreciate it.



Thanks in advance.

Noel.
flag TheSlayer99
FL
Posted: Jul 25, 2020 at 16:18 Quote
noelmm wrote:
Hi everyone,

Lately I've been having problems with my braking and as said in the title, I run Code RCSs (with some decent life left on my metallic pads) on my enduro bike.

Whenever I get to some steep downhill where you just can't let go off the brakes mine tend to fade really fast, they have less and less power.

They make too much noise and I just don't have the confidence I need to finish my run, is it possible to run shimano Icetech rotors with Sram Calipers?

Also, any advice on what pads to use for the most stopping power?

I understand they are Downhill brakes and I see no need to get rid of them, but if I can get more efficiency out of them I'd really appreciate it.



Thanks in advance.

Noel.

Your first problem is running sram brakes.
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jul 25, 2020 at 17:16 Quote
I'm pretty sure you could use Shimano rotors. As long as the outside diameter of rotors matches, the main thing to confirm is whether the brake track is wide enough for your pads, i.e. you don't want your pads hanging off the bottom of the brake track by more than maybe a millimeter. Sometimes a little overhang is intentional as a means of scraping the bottom edge of the pad.

Some caliper manufacturers specify a slightly thicker rotor (ex. Magura), but I don't think this is necessary, as the difference in rotor thickness is less than the variance in thicknesses of pads and backing plates.

Some pads transfer less heat into the caliper. "Resin", "ceramic", "Kevlar" - the less metal, the lower the heat transfer. If the caliper is the limiting factor, you may be better off trying to keep it cool and risking some loss of performance at the pads. That said, some high-end, low-metal pads are minimally affected by heat.

It sounds like the problem may be your calipers. DOT 3/4/5.1 fluid absorbs water over time and the boiling point decreases. Your fluid is probably in need of a full flush.
flag mtbtrekracer
Posted: Jul 25, 2020 at 19:30 Quote
TheSlayer99 wrote:

Your first problem is running sram brakes.

Theres always one, i have run shimanos new xt 4 pots - just about went over the bars and lost all my speed locking up everywhere, is a slower way down for sure. all my best times have been on Srams, they offer far more control.
flag sdken
Posted: Jul 25, 2020 at 21:26 Quote
Used SRAM code RSC last season at the park with 2 wheelset - one with Shimano Icetech rotors and the other with Shimano Freeza centerlock rotors, just keep in mind Shimanos are 203mm vs Srams 200mm so get the appropriate adaptors.
flag noelmm
Posted: Jul 25, 2020 at 21:58 Quote
Thanks for the advice.

Gonna have to go to my LBS to ger the right fit on the calipers.
flag HaggeredShins
Posted: Jul 25, 2020 at 23:08 Quote
Personally I've run SRAM brakes with Shimano rotors, Shimano brakes with SRAM rotors, Hope Brakes with both rotors, Hayes rotors with all of those brakes.... the list goes on. Virtually every modern hydraulic brake is self-adjusting so the only conceivable dimension you have to be concerned with is the lingering 203mm vs 200mm lunacy that has yet to find its way out of braking standards.

We're talking a steel disc and some resin-bonded metal shavings that rub against each other--neither component cares who manufactured the other half of the equation.

Relevant to your issue: If your brakes are squealing and have loss of power you almost certainly have contaminated pads and rotors. Replace both (pads are usually a lost cause and rotors need to be very thoroughly cleaned, but can be saved)
flag dood
Posted: Jul 26, 2020 at 2:09 Quote
HaggeredShins wrote:
Personally I've run SRAM brakes with Shimano rotors, Shimano brakes with SRAM rotors, Hope Brakes with both rotors, Hayes rotors with all of those brakes.... the list goes on. Virtually every modern hydraulic brake is self-adjusting so the only conceivable dimension you have to be concerned with is the lingering 203mm vs 200mm lunacy that has yet to find its way out of braking standards.

We're talking a steel disc and some resin-bonded metal shavings that rub against each other--neither component cares who manufactured the other half of the equation.

Relevant to your issue: If your brakes are squealing and have loss of power you almost certainly have contaminated pads and rotors. Replace both (pads are usually a lost cause and rotors need to be very thoroughly cleaned, but can be saved)

This.

Calipers, masters, and otherwise - have no idea what junk they're attached to. There is zero amount of voodoo involved, and all systems will self-adjust to rotor thickness - which most likely only differs by a few thou. Worst case, you end up with a a ridiculously (?) thick rotor, and max out the usable adjustment of the system - until you scrub those bitches in....then it's bznz as uzual.
flag mark-p
Posted: Jul 26, 2020 at 5:28 Quote
The only comment I have is that Magura rotors and some third party rotors are thicker. Shimano are definitely thinner than Magura.

This can result in the system needing bleeding if you run out of adjustment of there being too much fluid so the caliper pistons will not go in far enough as the lever reservoir is full.

Rotors are usually some sort of stainless steel, the cheaper ones do still rust on the laser cut edges as the metal is low quality from an anti-rust perspective. They will all work and stop you.
flag gspottickles918
FL
Posted: Jul 26, 2020 at 7:06 Quote
Anyone tried using Galfers rotors with their Code RSC’s? I’m currently running a 220mm centerline rotor on the front of my trail bike. The power is real with those bad boys. Oh and I’m also using Trickstuff pads. They offer insane bite
flag TheSlayer99
FL
Posted: Jul 26, 2020 at 12:18 Quote
mtbtrekracer wrote:
TheSlayer99 wrote:

Your first problem is running sram brakes.

Theres always one, i have run shimanos new xt 4 pots - just about went over the bars and lost all my speed locking up everywhere, is a slower way down for sure. all my best times have been on Srams, they offer far more control.

That really sounds less like a problem with shimano brakes and more of a you problem. I only ride brakes that have little modulation because the brake feel is better, there’s more power available and they are easier to control.

I’ve ridden all but the new guides and can’t say the same about having more control. Every brake in their range feels exactly the same, so I don’t see a point to running codes over levels, aside from maybe heat dissipation but it’s sram so there’s not going to be any difference in that either between the levels and codes. The brakes never feel like the power comes on and you have to pull the levers all the way to the bars to feel any sort of power, they always feel spongey, and the lever blades are too long. You have to drag your brakes everywhere to slow down at all, so you can’t hold on when you need to because you have too much arm pump from trying to slow down. Oh yeah and I’ve had a literal near death experience because I tried to brake check on a set of the og guides and didn’t slow down at all.
flag gspottickles918
FL
Posted: Jul 26, 2020 at 13:13 Quote
TheSlayer99 wrote:
mtbtrekracer wrote:
TheSlayer99 wrote:

Your first problem is running sram brakes.

Theres always one, i have run shimanos new xt 4 pots - just about went over the bars and lost all my speed locking up everywhere, is a slower way down for sure. all my best times have been on Srams, they offer far more control.

That really sounds less like a problem with shimano brakes and more of a you problem. I only ride brakes that have little modulation because the brake feel is better, there’s more power available and they are easier to control.

I’ve ridden all but the new guides and can’t say the same about having more control. Every brake in their range feels exactly the same, so I don’t see a point to running codes over levels, aside from maybe heat dissipation but it’s sram so there’s not going to be any difference in that either between the levels and codes. The brakes never feel like the power comes on and you have to pull the levers all the way to the bars to feel any sort of power, they always feel spongey, and the lever blades are too long. You have to drag your brakes everywhere to slow down at all, so you can’t hold on when you need to because you have too much arm pump from trying to slow down. Oh yeah and I’ve had a literal near death experience because I tried to brake check on a set of the og guides and didn’t slow down at all.

Ha well it sounds like your problem with SRAM brakes is definitely the same as his with Shimano’s. Everything you just said is absolutely ridiculous and more importantly WRONG. I have had Guides and now run Codes and the difference is very noticeable. Don’t blame SRAM for your lack of skill with setting up brakes
flag HaggeredShins
Posted: Jul 26, 2020 at 13:13 Quote
TheSlayer99 wrote:
mtbtrekracer wrote:
TheSlayer99 wrote:

Your first problem is running sram brakes.

Theres always one, i have run shimanos new xt 4 pots - just about went over the bars and lost all my speed locking up everywhere, is a slower way down for sure. all my best times have been on Srams, they offer far more control.

That really sounds less like a problem with shimano brakes and more of a you problem. I only ride brakes that have little modulation because the brake feel is better, there’s more power available and they are easier to control.

I’ve ridden all but the new guides and can’t say the same about having more control. Every brake in their range feels exactly the same, so I don’t see a point to running codes over levels, aside from maybe heat dissipation but it’s sram so there’s not going to be any difference in that either between the levels and codes. The brakes never feel like the power comes on and you have to pull the levers all the way to the bars to feel any sort of power, they always feel spongey, and the lever blades are too long. You have to drag your brakes everywhere to slow down at all, so you can’t hold on when you need to because you have too much arm pump from trying to slow down. Oh yeah and I’ve had a literal near death experience because I tried to brake check on a set of the og guides and didn’t slow down at all.

I could probably lock my front wheel at 30mph on gen1 guides with metallic pads. Plenty of power, crisp lever, decent modulation on every set I've had (still have 3 sets in rotation).

Either you're dragging/overwhelming your brakes or something is wrong with that setup.
flag TheSlayer99
FL
Posted: Jul 26, 2020 at 13:39 Quote
gnarcissistictendency wrote:
TheSlayer99 wrote:
mtbtrekracer wrote:


Theres always one, i have run shimanos new xt 4 pots - just about went over the bars and lost all my speed locking up everywhere, is a slower way down for sure. all my best times have been on Srams, they offer far more control.

That really sounds less like a problem with shimano brakes and more of a you problem. I only ride brakes that have little modulation because the brake feel is better, there’s more power available and they are easier to control.

I’ve ridden all but the new guides and can’t say the same about having more control. Every brake in their range feels exactly the same, so I don’t see a point to running codes over levels, aside from maybe heat dissipation but it’s sram so there’s not going to be any difference in that either between the levels and codes. The brakes never feel like the power comes on and you have to pull the levers all the way to the bars to feel any sort of power, they always feel spongey, and the lever blades are too long. You have to drag your brakes everywhere to slow down at all, so you can’t hold on when you need to because you have too much arm pump from trying to slow down. Oh yeah and I’ve had a literal near death experience because I tried to brake check on a set of the og guides and didn’t slow down at all.

Ha well it sounds like your problem with SRAM brakes is definitely the same as his with Shimano’s. Everything you just said is absolutely ridiculous and more importantly WRONG. I have had Guides and now run Codes and the difference is very noticeable. Don’t blame SRAM for your lack of skill with setting up brakes

I’ve ridden them on rentals, brand new bikes, fresh brakes from a shop. Nothing to do with my skills, I don’t touch my brakes. Just that sram is trash. Our problems are different as well, I don’t need more modulation to use my brakes properly, I need more power which nothing from sram can offer. I don’t drag my brakes ever, so nothing to do with my skills either. And I’m not wrong, sram brakes have all been lab tested to be weaker than shimano 2 pot Deore brakes. I’d rather stop riding bikes than ride sram brakes ever again. Maybe I’d consider it on my xc bike if a company made 300mm rotors and I could run 2 code calipers per wheel with trickstuff power pads.
flag HaggeredShins
Posted: Jul 26, 2020 at 14:06 Quote
TheSlayer99 wrote:
I’ve ridden them on rentals, brand new bikes, fresh brakes from a shop. Nothing to do with my skills, I don’t touch my brakes. Just that sram is trash. Our problems are different as well, I don’t need more modulation to use my brakes properly, I need more power which nothing from sram can offer. I don’t drag my brakes ever, so nothing to do with my skills either. And I’m not wrong, sram brakes have all been lab tested to be weaker than shimano 2 pot Deore brakes. I’d rather stop riding bikes than ride sram brakes ever again. Maybe I’d consider it on my xc bike if a company made 300mm rotors and I could run 2 code calipers per wheel with trickstuff power pads.

Half the bikes at Rampage and on the WC circuit run Codes and meanwhile you're here blowing smoke up your own ass about how you are the utlra gnar outlier?

Lol. No offense.
  • Previous Page

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv65 0.011283
Mobile Version of Website