mtbtrekracer

@phops: Respectfully, You seem to be completely lost on this and the video wont show that initial pull very well. especially lower down the cassette on a bike with low anti squat and low chain growth. We've Done the testing and clearly you havnt. Feel free to come by the pits in loudenvielle. Happy to explain in person and show you. The classic quote. "just because You dont understand, doesnt mean everyone else is wrong"

@phops: I've read a few of your comments, I understand what you're trying to say about What is discussed as Pedal-kick. Unfortnatualy when the Rear axle moves away It Pulls on the top chainline directing force to backwards rotate the chainring, This is why an idler is needed when We run high pivot as the Distance to the BB gets big very quick, We've tried running Higher pivot prototypes without an idler and its just unridable in the rough stuff. Neko Has tried with different heights and found a reasonably good balance But generally requires a Chainring-device. It's not so much the pedal kick itself thats the issue but how much it stiffens the rear and this seems to get worse the heavier the rider in our experience anyway. P.s You are explaining your Arguement very poorly.

@DoubleCrownAddict: You need to work on dominating those mental hospital papers first.

@deez-nucks: Personally I stick to the technically Mechanical side - thats what drew me to Bike racing in the first place. I will happily exclude myself from the really good Riders pool. I've seen riders all over the world with Data systems, even basic Travel balancing stuff - Yet they are stiffer than a Concrete block going down the blue Trail haha. at hardline Wales, im assuming Asa Used the data system to Find sections where the bike felt unsettled, discussed a rider input or Suspension/geo change to assist, Finding less than a tenth can be highly beneficial at that level.

Most pinkbikers do not need Data Acquisition. They need to Learn to ride properly.

ah yes, the pinkbike Version of Brian Cahal. We've done extensive testing with longer rear centres on bigger bikes(an slightly shorter reach) - the bike Suddenly starts to slow down, especially if its steep or Tech... Axle path becomes to far behind the rider, We also had issues with snap front wheel hooking, basically the front wheel would be so knife edge it was hard to input steering without effectively folding it under the bike. From my Observation of Brian's riding and what i've heard from others, when he finds a bike he likes, he has the same issue we had and hes had some decent crashes now. In other words, A short or medium size frame is where all the physic's work well. you'll never replicate that feeling on bigger bikes.

@nateb: shhhh, thats not how to sell 'more is better'!!! It's always the brands sponsored by high engagement marketing brands looking for less Chain kick.

@thekaiser: the DVO nz guys build to order so its smooth as butter and can be tuned - no point buying a product then having to send away for a tune.