So I accidentally overtorqued both axles on my bike. What now?

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So I accidentally overtorqued both axles on my bike. What now?
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flag wlrJhMAk
Posted: Jul 4, 2023 at 12:38 Quote
Hello,
so I was happy to use my new ParkTool 6.2 ratcheting torque wrench today on my Trek Roscoe 7. I have tightened up the axles, but I was expecting the torque wrench to start ratcheting when the set torque was exceeded, but it is just supposed to do one click. What happened was that I kept tightening a lot until I noticed that something isn't right. I loosened both of the axles and retorqued them with torque wrench that I used before. My question is. What now? Did I ruin my frame or fork when I overtightened the axles? I don't see any damage and none of the axles and none of them is slipping, but i am just afraid that i messed something really bad.
flag MT36
Posted: Jul 4, 2023 at 12:47 Quote
You may have ruined the frame if you tightened the axles so much that the threads are stripped. Usually, this takes a LOT of torque to do on a frame so you are probably ok as long as the axles are snug in there.
flag dezinfektor
Posted: Jul 4, 2023 at 14:38 Quote
MT36 wrote:
You may have ruined the frame if you tightened the axles so much that the threads are stripped. Usually, this takes a LOT of torque to do on a frame so you are probably ok as long as the axles are snug in there.

Thanks for response. It looks like that the threads are not stripped. At least they don't move on their own. I tell you that this ParkTool torque wrench caused me a headache. I may sell it or give it away because it is not safe to use it.
flag kiranseligman
O+
Posted: Jul 4, 2023 at 14:44 Quote
dezinfektor wrote:
MT36 wrote:
You may have ruined the frame if you tightened the axles so much that the threads are stripped. Usually, this takes a LOT of torque to do on a frame so you are probably ok as long as the axles are snug in there.

Thanks for response. It looks like that the threads are not stripped. At least they don't move on their own. I tell you that this ParkTool torque wrench caused me a headache. I may sell it or give it away because it is not safe to use it.

That is how all torque wrenches are. They click once the desired torque is hit. Fancy ones will beep at you too.
flag dezinfektor
Posted: Jul 4, 2023 at 14:58 Quote
kiranseligman wrote:
dezinfektor wrote:
MT36 wrote:
You may have ruined the frame if you tightened the axles so much that the threads are stripped. Usually, this takes a LOT of torque to do on a frame so you are probably ok as long as the axles are snug in there.

Thanks for response. It looks like that the threads are not stripped. At least they don't move on their own. I tell you that this ParkTool torque wrench caused me a headache. I may sell it or give it away because it is not safe to use it.

That is how all torque wrenches are. They click once the desired torque is hit. Fancy ones will beep at you too.

Yes, but there are also those types where you can keep tightening, but the ratchet mechanism gets engaged like you would be moving the wrench in the opposite position so there's no risk of overtightening. Even the manual of this torque wrench doesn't mention this danger. I may just write ParkTool directly and be thankful for almost ruining my bike. I may have looked on the internet before using the wrench, but I used other types of torque wrenches so I wasn't total greenhorn she I purchased it.
flag MT36
Posted: Jul 4, 2023 at 15:09 Quote
Did you stop turning when you got the click or did you turning the axle? As long as you set the torque correctly and then stop when you get the click, it's being used correctly.
flag dezinfektor
Posted: Jul 4, 2023 at 15:20 Quote
MT36 wrote:
Did you stop turning when you got the click or did you turning the axle? As long as you set the torque correctly and then stop when you get the click, it's being used correctly.

I found out the hard way that it is supposed to do this, but I can't figure out following things

First, why make so expensive torque wrench without the disengaging mechanism? I am already searching torque wrench with disengaging mechanism on non-bike related shops as I found out that there is no such thing on bike related shops. ParkTool will also not sell me any other thing as there is also problem with bits dangling all around when you are tightening the bolts. It is also unbelievable that 3/8 bits are apparently ParkTool specific and no manufacturer of high quality tools like Bosch makes them.

And second, why make the instructions so bad it hurts your brain?
flag MT36
Posted: Jul 4, 2023 at 16:37 Quote
I hear ya. For what it's worth, and I'm saying this from hard won experience, you may want to look up directions in other places, like youtube, if factory directions are unclear. MTB maintenance is a high stakes game. It's easy to make a $500 (or more) mistake before you know it.
flag mountainjew
Posted: Jul 5, 2023 at 20:24 Quote
dezinfektor wrote:
3/8 bits are apparently ParkTool specific and no manufacturer of high quality tools like Bosch makes them.
... i have a whole set of 3/8 sockets, and another of torx bits (both kincrome)

I'm very sure you can find non - park branded allen and torx bits in 3/8"
Just have too look into general tool supplies, not "bike tool" brands
flag TimMog
Posted: Jul 5, 2023 at 23:39 Quote
I think this one can be put firmly into the "user error" category
flag nwberm
O+
Posted: Jul 6, 2023 at 10:12 Quote
I didn't even know there were torque wrenches that begin "ratching" after they reach the set torque. Sounds like a great feature. Every torque wrench I've ever had has the "click" to let you know that you reached your setting.
flag barp
Posted: Jul 6, 2023 at 10:22 Quote
TimMog wrote:
I think this one can be put firmly into the "user error" category

Yeah, user error for sure. OP, don't be a Karen at Park Tool.
flag nb1234
Posted: Jul 6, 2023 at 17:15 Quote
Torque limiting tools that release after the specified torque are usually limited to situations with relatively low torque specs. E.g. single hand twisting a hex key or torx bit - usually in the in-lb range. Think bolts in the 5mm range or less.

For larger fasteners, this simply isn't done as it would be dangerous to the operator. Imagine tightening the lug nuts on your car and then having the wrench let release at 100 ft-lbs. Broken knuckles or even a broken face could well be the result.

While an axle through bolt isn't as burly as a car's lug nut, it's definitely on the higher end of fasteners on a bike.
flag aegiz
Posted: Jul 6, 2023 at 18:36 Quote
Step 7 from the user manual reads:

Place bit and wrench onto bolt or nut to be tightened.
Grasp handle of torque wrench and turn with steady
force until a “click” is heard and felt in the wrench, and/
or the torque wrench head pivots relative to main body.
Immediately release force from torque wrench
after “click”.

Confused
flag dood
Posted: Jul 7, 2023 at 2:44 Quote
SO, you've tightened the inclined-plane to the point where it has solid contact on the flat faces. And then some.

IF the threads are not showing deformation, then all the threaded bits are good. If that's the case, the frame certainly is too.

There is NO reason to assume that you have exceeded the yield strength of the frame at any given point - as the flat faces hit their point against another, they won't move much - but the inclined plane, always does. It takes a LOT of force to yield an engineered structure; but not much more than a heavy elbow-click to ruin a screw.

Threads almost ALWAYS yield before the base metal - there's a reason the nerds came up with that whole dealio..... Relax, it'll be fine. Ride the piss out of 'er.
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