What brakes are people running?

PB Forum :: Downhill
What brakes are people running?
Author Message
flag Mindtve
Posted: Feb 15, 2021 at 5:45 Quote
Magura MT5 next brakes. Never failed me
flag fuzzydunlop
Posted: Feb 15, 2021 at 11:18 Quote
I've previously used Saints with the full ice tech set up and thought they were amazing

But I've just upgraded my Status to RSCs with trickstuff pads and holy shit they're on another level for sheer power. They'd be terrifying with 220 rotors Big Grin
flag seismicninja
Posted: Feb 15, 2021 at 11:29 Quote
fuzzydunlop wrote:
I've previously used Saints with the full ice tech set up and thought they were amazing

But I've just upgraded my Status to RSCs with trickstuff pads and holy shit they're on another level for sheer power. They'd be terrifying with 220 rotors Big Grin

I will never go back to smaller rotors after using the 220mm front and rear. I have never been impressed with Saints as far as power tbh. My guess is that back in the day, they were more powerful than other brakes on the market but then everyone else caught up or surpassed them. They always seemed kinda meh to me and I much prefer the new Hayes Dominion and Hope V4 brakes. Even the Magura Mt5 has more power and WAY better modulation than Saints for a lot less money. Personally I think it is time Shimano gave the Saints an update but that's just me.
flag ScaryGuiTarS
Posted: Feb 15, 2021 at 12:33 Quote
I have this upgraded to Code RSC's on my carbon SJ expert and have been very impressed. I WAS thinking of the Magura but if these keep feeling this good I won't be too interested in changing.

I still have the stock 200/180 rotors. Seem fine BUT I'm considering going to a Hope floating rotor unless any of you convince me otherwise. The Hope rotors I think are just slightly over 200mm (203?). I'd consider the Hope 203 front and rear if I replace w/floating.

Is this thing w/SRAM using DOT fluid of any concern other than the slight inconvenience? I assume they don't go to a mineral oil fluid because of performance, but I may be mistaken as to what the real reason is other than the common things we know about longevity and storage of these different fluid options. Maybe viscosity was an issue.

~JSV
flag spaceofades
O+
Posted: Feb 15, 2021 at 12:47 Quote
Dot fluid is automotive grade. It is widely available everywhere you go, made to rigerous standards, and performs in all conditions.
It does absorb water which can lower the boiling point, but if you bleed brakes regularly this is not a problem.


Mineral oil doesn't absorb water, but has a lower clean boiling temperature, doesn't work well in sub-zero temperatures, and can be harder to find, especially during covid.
The only upside is it doesn't absorb through your skin or strip away your frames paint.


I very much prefer dot over mineral oil, even if you have to take a little more care and wear gloves.
flag notsosikmik
O+
Posted: Feb 15, 2021 at 13:25 Quote
seismicninja wrote:
fuzzydunlop wrote:
I've previously used Saints with the full ice tech set up and thought they were amazing

But I've just upgraded my Status to RSCs with trickstuff pads and holy shit they're on another level for sheer power. They'd be terrifying with 220 rotors Big Grin

I will never go back to smaller rotors after using the 220mm front and rear. I have never been impressed with Saints as far as power tbh. My guess is that back in the day, they were more powerful than other brakes on the market but then everyone else caught up or surpassed them. They always seemed kinda meh to me and I much prefer the new Hayes Dominion and Hope V4 brakes. Even the Magura Mt5 has more power and WAY better modulation than Saints for a lot less money. Personally I think it is time Shimano gave the Saints an update but that's just me.

Been really happy with TRP stuff. Stoked they are offering up to 223 rotors now as well. They had some of the new DHR Evo brakes in stock so I ordered them which also use a rotor that 2.3mm wide compared to the standard 1.8 that is supposed to be awesome for heat management. Trying to do an e bike build but haven't been able to find a bike yet. Worst case I sit on the brakes for while or sell them for what I paid.
flag Ploutre
Posted: Feb 15, 2021 at 13:31 Quote
ScaryGuiTarS wrote:
I have this upgraded to Code RSC's on my carbon SJ expert and have been very impressed. I WAS thinking of the Magura but if these keep feeling this good I won't be too interested in changing.

I still have the stock 200/180 rotors. Seem fine BUT I'm considering going to a Hope floating rotor unless any of you convince me otherwise. The Hope rotors I think are just slightly over 200mm (203?). I'd consider the Hope 203 front and rear if I replace w/floating.

Is this thing w/SRAM using DOT fluid of any concern other than the slight inconvenience? I assume they don't go to a mineral oil fluid because of performance, but I may be mistaken as to what the real reason is other than the common things we know about longevity and storage of these different fluid options. Maybe viscosity was an issue.

~JSV
They're more of a look-at-me thing than anything else. They're slightly heavier than the all steel version, the rivets are TERRIBLE at transmitting heat to the aluminium carrier (unless you add some thermal paste in there, but .... just don't bother). And they're still "thin" at something like 1.8 or 1.85mm.

Other than that, not much to say about them. They're rotors, they work. I've had once a rotor that after a few rides, developped quite a lot of play at the rivets. The braking part was moving quite a bit compared to the carrier, and it was audible while riding. Hope told me it was ok to ride (was going for a 10 days riding road trip), and exchanged it once I got back.

Unless you're looking at matching the rotors to the overall paint job of your bike, I'd just pick a "thick" rotor from another brand (Magura HC rotors, Formula Cura rotors, Trickstuff HD, Galfer, ... Plenty of brands now make 2.00mm thick rotors). Those handle the heat slightly better (more mass to heat up), don't warp as much if your caliper is mis-aligned, and on some brakes offer a better lever feel as the pads have less to travel to get to the rotor.
flag ScaryGuiTarS
Posted: Feb 15, 2021 at 13:37 Quote
@spaceofades - Excellent. That helped clear up a few things I didn't get about the choice of using the different fluids.

~JSV
flag adm750
Posted: Feb 15, 2021 at 14:25 Quote
spaceofades wrote:
Dot fluid is automotive grade. It is widely available everywhere you go, made to rigerous standards, and performs in all conditions.
It does absorb water which can lower the boiling point, but if you bleed brakes regularly this is not a problem.


Mineral oil doesn't absorb water, but has a lower clean boiling temperature, doesn't work well in sub-zero temperatures, and can be harder to find, especially during covid.
The only upside is it doesn't absorb through your skin or strip away your frames paint.


I very much prefer dot over mineral oil, even if you have to take a little more care and wear gloves.

I'm all about DOT fluid....so on this note, any issues with using a silicone fluid like AP Racing 550 ?? you'd have to clean the system entirely (like we'd do with the racecars...). I've done ZERO research on this but happen to have about 6 unopened bottles left in my stash.. so now I'm thinking...which is dangerous...
flag ScaryGuiTarS
Posted: Feb 15, 2021 at 18:55 Quote
Ploutre wrote:
ScaryGuiTarS wrote:
I have this upgraded to Code RSC's on my carbon SJ expert and have been very impressed. I WAS thinking of the Magura but if these keep feeling this good I won't be too interested in changing.

I still have the stock 200/180 rotors. Seem fine BUT I'm considering going to a Hope floating rotor unless any of you convince me otherwise. The Hope rotors I think are just slightly over 200mm (203?). I'd consider the Hope 203 front and rear if I replace w/floating.

Is this thing w/SRAM using DOT fluid of any concern other than the slight inconvenience? I assume they don't go to a mineral oil fluid because of performance, but I may be mistaken as to what the real reason is other than the common things we know about longevity and storage of these different fluid options. Maybe viscosity was an issue.

~JSV
They're more of a look-at-me thing than anything else. They're slightly heavier than the all steel version, the rivets are TERRIBLE at transmitting heat to the aluminium carrier (unless you add some thermal paste in there, but .... just don't bother). And they're still "thin" at something like 1.8 or 1.85mm.

Other than that, not much to say about them. They're rotors, they work. I've had once a rotor that after a few rides, developped quite a lot of play at the rivets. The braking part was moving quite a bit compared to the carrier, and it was audible while riding. Hope told me it was ok to ride (was going for a 10 days riding road trip), and exchanged it once I got back.

Unless you're looking at matching the rotors to the overall paint job of your bike, I'd just pick a "thick" rotor from another brand (Magura HC rotors, Formula Cura rotors, Trickstuff HD, Galfer, ... Plenty of brands now make 2.00mm thick rotors). Those handle the heat slightly better (more mass to heat up), don't warp as much if your caliper is mis-aligned, and on some brakes offer a better lever feel as the pads have less to travel to get to the rotor.

Hey glad I'm hearing that. Wasn't ready to take the plunge just yet, but I'll avoid the Hope rotors in the future. I have gotten good advice on the Magura & Galfer rotors though. That sounds like it's worth looking into. I had my misgivings about the floating rotors to begin with. Nothing I've been told convinces me that the tech' is where it should be yet, OR that there's any true necessity in changing to those. Definitely considering 200mm front and rear though. I can't ever see my braking requirements needing 220, but I have heard good things...

The aesthetics on the rotors--not important to me anyway--I actually thought the rotors themselves were good. I believe I know better now. Thanks!

~JSV
flag Abacall
O+
Posted: Feb 16, 2021 at 5:26 Quote
Counterpoint to the Hope rotors... I've run many sets of them, no manufacturing issues. I don't believe they actually make much difference, but just look really good. The issue I did have, once, with them is that the connecting rivets can foul a frame. Not much clearance back there.
Aside from looks and weight though, not much reason to go with that over something a little thicker and cheaper.
flag ScaryGuiTarS
Posted: Feb 16, 2021 at 16:14 Quote
Are we accepting though that there's no real reason for one to want floating rotors?

So, quality rotor, 200/203 front and rear, for a carbon SJ expert w/SRAM Code RSC, not too concerned with price--I figure I'm looking at least $50+ each anyway, what are the recommendations here? Magura, Galfer, Sram, TRP?

~JSV
flag seismicninja
Posted: Feb 16, 2021 at 16:17 Quote
Sram centerline rotors are 2.0 if I remember correctly. Pretty cheap on Amazon. I think I got my 220mm ones for around 80$ for both
flag ScaryGuiTarS
Posted: Feb 16, 2021 at 16:35 Quote
I have those in there now. SRAM centerline 2mm. I have 200f 180r. I thought, if I AM thinking of going 200 f&r I thought maybe I'd upgrade the rotor. I know probably not necessary, but I'm accepting advice. With all the upgrades I'm doing getting ready for this season I just didn't want to overlook the rotors too.

I AM appreciating the input! And it's giving me an excuse to look up some more cool bike parts, can't go wrong there, other than that it usually results in me getting hijacked for another few bucks each time lol!

...bike's L00k'n g00d though!


~JSV
flag Ploutre
Posted: Feb 17, 2021 at 0:12 Quote
I'm pretty sure the Centerline in size up to 200mm are 1.8 or 1.85mm thick, but the 220 is 2.0mm (also to help with the fact that it's bigger, so the thickness helps with the flex)

Floating rotors aren't bad either, they're just a cool gimmick and add colour to the bike.

Galfer rotors are solid, might use the pads a bit more than other more "full" rotors. I have the Formula cura ones on the DH bike, in 223/203 and no extra noise to report, no extra bendy rotors either. I'm running Trickstuff in 220 on the enduro bike and they're fine aswell ... Just pick one you like visually, within your price range, and you'll be fine. If you want to go the cool way, the Intend Aero rotors looks damn fine! Definitely some of the most expensive rotors for the sizes, but that's Intend ... Big Grin

 


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