My Wheel Building Guide

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My Wheel Building Guide
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flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 23, 2022 at 12:29 Quote
seraph wrote:
justjake wrote:
seraph wrote:


If you got 14mm brass DT Swiss nipples, looks like you could do 272mm left, 270mm right.

Right ok, I’ll look into that. What’s the rule of thumb when spoke length falls between sizes, i.e. 0.5mm, do you round up or down? Thanks!

Generally speaking, you round down for the drive side and round up for the non-drive side (rear only). To a point though. Figure that your drive side spokes will be higher tension than non-drive side and thus are more likely to bottom out under tension. Likewise your non-drive side spokes are unlikely to bottom out as their tension plays second banana fiddle to the drive side spokes.

Following your comment for a rear carbon wheel I got NDS 277 and DS 275, so I should go 276 for both sides right?
flag seraph
Posted: Jan 24, 2022 at 12:37 Quote
lilaubert wrote:
seraph wrote:
justjake wrote:


Right ok, I’ll look into that. What’s the rule of thumb when spoke length falls between sizes, i.e. 0.5mm, do you round up or down? Thanks!

Generally speaking, you round down for the drive side and round up for the non-drive side (rear only). To a point though. Figure that your drive side spokes will be higher tension than non-drive side and thus are more likely to bottom out under tension. Likewise your non-drive side spokes are unlikely to bottom out as their tension plays second banana fiddle to the drive side spokes.

Following your comment for a rear carbon wheel I got NDS 277 and DS 275, so I should go 276 for both sides right?

That might work in a pinch, but I would be more likely to round up for the NDS and down for the DS. You don't want to bottom out on the DS and you don't want to run out of threads on the NDS. So 278 NDS, 274 DS.
flag Alihan
Posted: Jan 25, 2022 at 0:35 Quote
Hi Everyone,

I have a little question. I'm thinking that for a long time but I didn't get a result. I have 20x110 non boost hope pro 4 front hub and I got new suspension fork. It's 20x110 boost. Can I use my non boost hope 4 hub with my new suspensiyon? Is there an adapter for this or is there another way? Thanks in advance, have a good day my friends.
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 25, 2022 at 21:12 Quote
photo

Hello, I am looking to build a straitpull wheelset, DT give two lengths accurate and recommended. I do not really understand why there is such a difference between accurate and recommended.

Following the recommended lengths I am thinking to go

Front NDS 292 DS 294

Rear NDS 294 DS 290
flag seraph
Posted: Jan 26, 2022 at 0:36 Quote
lilaubert wrote:
photo

Hello, I am looking to build a straitpull wheelset, DT give two lengths accurate and recommended. I do not really understand why there is such a difference between accurate and recommended.

Following the recommended lengths I am thinking to go

Front NDS 292 DS 294

Rear NDS 294 DS 290

I wouldn't go with 290 on the rear DS, I think that's too short. DT Swiss spokes already run short. Use 292.
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 26, 2022 at 6:49 Quote
seraph wrote:
lilaubert wrote:
photo

Hello, I am looking to build a straitpull wheelset, DT give two lengths accurate and recommended. I do not really understand why there is such a difference between accurate and recommended.

Following the recommended lengths I am thinking to go

Front NDS 292 DS 294

Rear NDS 294 DS 290

I wouldn't go with 290 on the rear DS, I think that's too short. DT Swiss spokes already run short. Use 292.


Ok thank you, I am worry of the 292 NDS front too. 294 better you think?
flag seraph
Posted: Jan 27, 2022 at 11:40 Quote
lilaubert wrote:
seraph wrote:
lilaubert wrote:
photo

Hello, I am looking to build a straitpull wheelset, DT give two lengths accurate and recommended. I do not really understand why there is such a difference between accurate and recommended.

Following the recommended lengths I am thinking to go

Front NDS 292 DS 294

Rear NDS 294 DS 290

I wouldn't go with 290 on the rear DS, I think that's too short. DT Swiss spokes already run short. Use 292.


Ok thank you, I am worry of the 292 NDS front too. 294 better you think?

No, 294 is probably too long for the front NDS. You don't want to bottom out the nipples before you reach proper tension.
flag rtpguy
Posted: Feb 27, 2022 at 11:25 Quote
Hi all.

First wheel build - for a Carbon Fiber 750W e-mtb, 160mm travel F/R. 225# rider. Grew up riding dirt bikes/MCs and still have a few dual-sports, so not afraid to catch some air/jumps, but don't ride the ebike like a MC and not trying to re-live teen/20s...

I am looking for/hoping to build a reliable, solid wheelset. Components have been tough and originally was going to build up on DT XM 581 (ebike i35 wheel), but they're unobtanium in the US and even outside for the most part.

Wound up with the following at this point:
Hubs: Front - DT 240s Hybrid, 6 bolt, 20x110mm boost, Rear - DT 350 Hybrid, 6 bolt, 12 x 148mm boost
Rims: Arc35 offset. I know some earlier iterations seem to have been on the soft side, but choices are slim at the moment and have seen enough do builds with positive comments on them, so I suspect they'll be OK for my riding.

I'm completely confused when it comes to spokes and nipples at this point - DT only 'blesses' the Alpine and Alpine 3 spokes for ebike use, while Sapim claims the Force and Strong for ebikes, although their listed strength seems to be less than others, so I suppose it's based on being able to have some/more deformation. Also the hybrid hubs have 2.8mm spoke holes FWIW.

Nipples - going brass, but unsure which - DT Pro Squorx or something else?
I did see a few comments on ARCs cracking at the spoke/nipple holes, but unsure if it was last or current gen, so am wondering if it's worth adding nipple washers, perhaps to the rear wheel only, but if so - which?

Calculators have been mixed and I'll wait until I can measure components in hand, but DT's thankfully does at least have the hybrid hubs listed, but of course not the rims, and DTs calculator doesn't seem to allow entry for the offset holes on the ARC asym drilling. Freespoke's calc seems to have the hybrid rear and the ARC30, and they seem to be - at least close at this point, although I had to adjust the flange to be same size for the 240s Hybrid.

Any comments appreciated
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flag Thorjensen
O+
Posted: Feb 27, 2022 at 13:35 Quote
I will try to make this rather easy and how I would build the wheels with the information that you have provided.
So here is what we know and what you want. I wont comment on the chosen hubs or rims as that would need MUCH more info from you about riding style etc etc:

27.5" wheels for your ebike.
DT Swiss 240 Hybrid 20x110 front hub
DT Swiss 350 Hybrid 12x148 rear hub
----------
You could build with Sapim Force spokes but i've build wheels for 330lb riders on ebikes using Sapim Race or DT Competition. I would personally always go with Sapim.

Then I would chose Sapim Polyax Secure Lock Brass 14mm nipples. Hands down the best nipple IMO.

I through the data into my calculator of choice "WheelPro" and got a result for you
*I plotted in a 2.0mm spoke but with a 1.8 it will just stretch a wee bit more.

I would go with 272mm both sides front and rear.

photo

photo
flag rtpguy
Posted: Feb 27, 2022 at 14:31 Quote
Thorjensen wrote:
I will try to make this rather easy and how I would build the wheels with the information that you have provided.
So here is what we know and what you want. I wont comment on the chosen hubs or rims as that would need MUCH more info from you about riding style etc etc:

27.5" wheels for your ebike.
DT Swiss 240 Hybrid 20x110 front hub
DT Swiss 350 Hybrid 12x148 rear hub
----------
You could build with Sapim Force spokes but i've build wheels for 330lb riders on ebikes using Sapim Race or DT Competition. I would personally always go with Sapim.

Then I would chose Sapim Polyax Secure Lock Brass 14mm nipples. Hands down the best nipple IMO.

I through the data into my calculator of choice "WheelPro" and got a result for you
*I plotted in a 2.0mm spoke but with a 1.8 it will just stretch a wee bit more.

I would go with 272mm both sides front and rear.

Thanks; appreciate it!
Hub choice was availability and a very good experience to date with DT Swiss - I would have gone 350 Hybrid front and rear if they were available. Rim - availability.

The front is 15x110 TA - possible I wrote 20mm, although shouldn't matter in calculations.
Will add that calculator to the list - first build, so don't have a favorite yet other than 'which one has the right components' etc. Wink

The Hybrid hubs have a 2.8mm spoke hole in the flanges vs normal 2.5mm - which had me thinking e.g. DT Alpine/Alpine 3 at 2.34 at head end was the way to go. Any concerns there?

I was ready to go DT Squorx, brass + Alpine 3 - without the 'pro lock' option. With the oversized spoke hole, any concern going with DT Comps or the Sapim Race?

Should I forego the nipple washers in any event?

Thanks a lot!
flag rtpguy
Posted: Apr 28, 2022 at 18:22 Quote
Managed to get them built, mounted and first ride w.out issue so - yay Smile
photo
flag eastsidecycleworkswa
Posted: Nov 20, 2022 at 15:04 Quote
Hey guys,

Sorry for the very basic question.

What determines whether or not you need to dish a wheel? Is it the rim or the frame?

I am building a new wheel for my hardtail with some current generation XT hubs and WTB KOM Tough rims.
flag potato
Posted: Nov 20, 2022 at 16:36 Quote
I would say it is the flanges on the hub the #1 reason.
If the rim has offset holes it can help, the rim is not the root cause.
Then spoke length, I am not exactly sure about this, but the length and angle of the spokes used to compensate for the differences in hub flange to center dimension create an uneven set up that you need to adjust tensions to center the rim.
flag barp
Posted: Nov 20, 2022 at 19:22 Quote
pdon wrote:
Hey guys,

Sorry for the very basic question.

What determines whether or not you need to dish a wheel? Is it the rim or the frame?

I am building a new wheel for my hardtail with some current generation XT hubs and WTB KOM Tough rims.

"Dishing" a wheel just means making sure that one end of the hub (the location where it touches the frame) protrudes the same distance from the centerline of the rim as the other end of the hub does. This is something that needs to be done for every wheel build. It will happen more or less automatically on a front, rim brake wheel, because the hub flanges (the parts that the spokes connect to) are symmetrically spaced from its center. This means matching spoke lengths and matching spoke tension should result in a properly dished wheel (although you still should check).

 


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