Old Riders....But not "Old School"

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Old Riders....But not "Old School"
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flag onemanarmy
Posted: Sep 13, 2019 at 18:33 Quote
sterlingmagnum wrote:
I’ve been really hyped on higher engagement hubs over the last couple years.... mostly for the tech climbing benefit. picked up an I-9 101 recently to replace the koozer cheese hub and have been impressed so far. 90 points and the same price as a hope. So far. So good. I think it was Sherbert who suggested it... good suggestion

I checked some out at a shop up in Oregon last weekend. Crazy engagement. Think I might try and grab a set. Plus the purple was sick. 216 POE.

https://project321.com/product/boost-rear-hub/
flag onemanarmy
Posted: Sep 13, 2019 at 18:35 Quote
shredb4dead wrote:
I’m the opposite, carbon frame and aluminum rims all the way for trail bikes. $500 CAD a rim for the same weight as an aluminum one? Fu*k that, a $120 aluminum rim will do just fine. Unless MTB wants drop the price and start selling carbon ones around $250 CAD. That would be double the amount, not 4 times the amount. Do that and they might get my attention.

Trip south.
Already proposed the Leavenworth weekend trip down south to the lady of the woods this morning. Only thing she said is “where you going to get the money for this trip? You complain every time you have to spend it on groceries!” Lol
Not set in stone yet but I will let you know.

Definitely more economical. But I'd be more likely to go aluminum/aluminum if I was trying to stay on budget.

My buddy built up a stumpy evo. Alloy/alloy. Was actually pretty damned light.
flag shredb4dead
Posted: Sep 13, 2019 at 18:50 Quote
For me it’s not really a budget thing it’s more about the price gouging for carbon rims. Aluminum frames $1600 to $2500 CAD each.
Carbon frame = $3600 to $4000 CAD each.
Around double-ish the cost for carbon. Pricey but not stupid.
Quality aluminum rim $120 CAD ish depending on rim. Quality carbon rim $500 CAD ish a rim. 4 x the amount. That’s just a good old ass gouge IMO but to each his own.
flag sterlingmagnum
Posted: Sep 13, 2019 at 19:28 Quote
216 poe? Thats nice.

So interesting feels on peddle kickback and such... what I have noticed (with my trails and riding) is the really tricky janky steep climbing burst sections that are more about timing and finesse is where high poe seems to work in my favor. I can back peddle and set my power point any time I need without worry that my crank arm is going to drop 3” and get me out of rhythm. More so when lots of body english and such is going on.

Not so much needed when grinding away or using more brute force to get up stuff.


Oh and shred when chef says he’ll bring food.... lets just say there was quite a large vat of chili. You wont starve.
flag shredb4dead
Posted: Sep 13, 2019 at 20:43 Quote
sterlingmagnum wrote:
216 poe? Thats nice.

So interesting feels on peddle kickback and such... what I have noticed (with my trails and riding) is the really tricky janky steep climbing burst sections that are more about timing and finesse is where high poe seems to work in my favor. I can back peddle and set my power point any time I need without worry that my crank arm is going to drop 3” and get me out of rhythm. More so when lots of body english and such is going on.

Not so much needed when grinding away or using more brute force to get up stuff.


Oh and shred when chef says he’ll bring food.... lets just say there was quite a large vat of chili. You wont starve.

He already sent me a PM about the food, I'm not worried about that. lol
Just have to sort out some details but I could be in. I'll let you guys know ASAP.
flag mtbman1980
O+
Posted: Sep 13, 2019 at 21:01 Quote
Not tied to any one material but I have been happy with my carbon frame it has been abused just as my aluminum frames have been and it actually looks better after a year than the aluminum one did. I am not sold on carbon rims just yet I think the price will come down once they are built right and they don't need to offer lifetime warranties to get people to buy in. I will admit they are nice and definitely make a bike feel more lively when pedaling but I have had several friends blow up thier carbon wheels to not be interested yet.
flag shredb4dead
Posted: Sep 13, 2019 at 21:11 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
Not tied to any one material but I have been happy with my carbon frame it has been abused just as my aluminum frames have been and it actually looks better after a year than the aluminum one did. I am not sold on carbon rims just yet I think the price will come down once they are built right and they don't need to offer lifetime warranties to get people to buy in. I will admit they are nice and definitely make a bike feel more lively when pedaling but I have had several friends blow up thier carbon wheels to not be interested yet.

Local dude here had the same issue, blew up his carbon rims twice. They were replaced no problem but he was saying the down time without a ride is not worth it. I believe he's back on aluminum rims now.
flag sterlingmagnum
Posted: Sep 13, 2019 at 22:22 Quote
Saw that earlier... fookin noots!!!!
flag badbadleroybrown
Posted: Sep 13, 2019 at 23:56 Quote
Loved my i9's... and straight pull spokes aren't bad, you just need to regularly check tension. Let one get loose and you'll have issues real quick.

Engagement all depends upon terrain. The chunkier it is, the more you want.

Husstler, I wouldn't go to the 18t ratchet... that's 20° rotation before engagement which is trash, it'll be noticeably sloppy. Even basic old school Shimano hubs ran 15'ish degrees. If the 54 tooth is giving you too much feedback at 6.6°, try the 36 tooth for 10°. I honestly wouldn't put the 18 tooth on anything but a road bike.
flag husstler
O+
Posted: Sep 14, 2019 at 5:24 Quote
badbadleroybrown wrote:
Loved my i9's... and straight pull spokes aren't bad, you just need to regularly check tension. Let one get loose and you'll have issues real quick.

Engagement all depends upon terrain. The chunkier it is, the more you want.

Husstler, I wouldn't go to the 18t ratchet... that's 20° rotation before engagement which is trash, it'll be noticeably sloppy. Even basic old school Shimano hubs ran 15'ish degrees. If the 54 tooth is giving you too much feedback at 6.6°, try the 36 tooth for 10°. I honestly wouldn't put the 18 tooth on anything but a road bike.

Alright, you guys convinced me to skip the 18t completely. There really isn't any tech climbing here, just long pedals up smooth trails or roads (with just the odd tricky bit), but 20 deg between engagements does sound like a lot. Its currently got the 36t in it and that should be a happy medium.

I mostly got started thinking about this because I broke a derailleur hanger at the top of the hill a little while ago and had to pull the chain and derailleur off for the ride down. I dont know if it was the weight reduction or some dynamics of free wheel action, but the suspension sure did feel smooth and supple that day.

Since then, I've been experimenting with a few things to get that feel again. I'm planning on some new carbon wheels for next season, at least for the pedally days. Lighter cassette would help too, mine weighs a ton.

It seems like wheel weight in general has crept up in the last few years. From 26" to 27" to 29", more gears, larger range gears, wider rims, thicker tire casings, more more more!
flag badbadleroybrown
Posted: Sep 14, 2019 at 6:03 Quote
I think the relocation of gearing to the cassette has played a huge role in that. 12 speed cassettes with 50 tooth dinner plates are unavoidably chunky compared to the 28-32 tooth big gears we ran back in the era of 2x drivetrains. I know my GX cassette weighs in at just over a pound. Switching to X01 AXS here shortly and that's gonna save nearly a quarter pound in just the cassette but it comes with a pricetag. Double edged sword of modern drivetrains; really functional and awesome performance but there's really no lightweight option without paying for it anymore.

That along with bigger wheels and a general slant towards durable and lightweight instead of just lightweight I think has left things generally heavier. My eThirteen TRS Race carbon wheels are like 1800g which isn't far off the last 26" DH wheelset I had.
flag Soupherb
Posted: Sep 14, 2019 at 6:31 Quote
d-man wrote:
Soupherb wrote:
badbadleroybrown wrote:
Honestly, alloy frame and carbon wheels will make more performance difference than carbon frame and alloy hoops... definitely money more wisely spent.

Nods head tup

Have ditched so many bike choices this last year due to uncertainty or funds getting spent in the interim period.
Not committed to jack shit, ebike too damn heavy, so bought a van to chuck dirty tools in.

But, this AF hits all the right buttons .. at the right time

Seriously popular already here, getting my name down & money sat waiting
You won't be disappointed, my buddy took my bike for a rip last night and in 15 minutes he was blown away at how good it was. He rides a 2019 transition smuggler pimped with ohlins coil f+r.

You actually played a role with my decision making D, so I thank you kindly. Remember your post, came out of the blue! (& subsequent ride reports) & thinking 'oh D' got one already?' & it's fully capable..ticks the boxes.. err ok! Kinda started my 'real' interest in the Ripmo. After a while, believed the Ripley would suit requirements better , then Ripmo AF arrives at a price & performance point that I simply can not ignore. Respectfully rate people's opinions here on this thread, tried & tested ,factual.
Online opinion/tests also played their part for sure, but wouldn't have swung the balance

Will beam stoke smiles to you when riding next tup
flag sterlingmagnum
Posted: Sep 14, 2019 at 8:26 Quote
husstler wrote:
badbadleroybrown wrote:
Loved my i9's... and straight pull spokes aren't bad, you just need to regularly check tension. Let one get loose and you'll have issues real quick.

Engagement all depends upon terrain. The chunkier it is, the more you want.

Husstler, I wouldn't go to the 18t ratchet... that's 20° rotation before engagement which is trash, it'll be noticeably sloppy. Even basic old school Shimano hubs ran 15'ish degrees. If the 54 tooth is giving you too much feedback at 6.6°, try the 36 tooth for 10°. I honestly wouldn't put the 18 tooth on anything but a road bike.

Alright, you guys convinced me to skip the 18t completely. There really isn't any tech climbing here, just long pedals up smooth trails or roads (with just the odd tricky bit), but 20 deg between engagements does sound like a lot. Its currently got the 36t in it and that should be a happy medium.

I mostly got started thinking about this because I broke a derailleur hanger at the top of the hill a little while ago and had to pull the chain and derailleur off for the ride down. I dont know if it was the weight reduction or some dynamics of free wheel action, but the suspension sure did feel smooth and supple that day.

Since then, I've been experimenting with a few things to get that feel again. I'm planning on some new carbon wheels for next season, at least for the pedally days. Lighter cassette would help too, mine weighs a ton.

It seems like wheel weight in general has crept up in the last few years. From 26" to 27" to 29", more gears, larger range gears, wider rims, thicker tire casings, more more more!


Same thing happened to me when the koozer hub shit the bed on the top of a big decent. The suss was wide open. The first thing my buddy asked me was “how’d that suspension feel on the way down...?” From what I gathered talking with a few folks is once the chain is removed there is zero tension between the suspension linkage so you have full unrestricted range of motion. Its crazy how much the chain actually slows down the motion. Doesn’t seem like it would play that much a part but it does. That coupled with zero drag from the hub opens up the full intent of that kinematic (if thats the correct term)

 


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