Poor, hard on parts, need new cranks and not sure how to install a set?

Dec 3, 2006
by Tyler Maine  
So what happens when your sick of riding around all year on twisted and bent cranks? Well for a lot of us… absolutely nothing! As we all know, crank sets can be a pretty expensive investment on your bike. Well myself, personally I’m 17 years old and work in a bike shop, so needless to say I don’t have the largest budget. There are inexpensive cranks out there, to accommodate those of us who can't bust out a hockey sock full of cash, but you might as well just keep riding your current setup because they will end up twisted or you will end up tearing the pedal out of them anyway. I have found that some manufacturers make cranks way to soft. If they are too soft, pedal threads tear even on the smallest impacts, and if you manage to catch your pedal on a solid root or rock, it’s game over.
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The FSA Maximus crank arms really caught my eye, mostly because of $100.00 retail price. Well actually there are two prices, $100.00 with no bash ring or chain rings. Bump the price up to $204.00 and you get a granny and middle, with a big polycarbonate bash ring. The cranks are forged from 6061 aluminum. One of the most impressive features includes the pedal inserts. Instead of most manufacturers using a little tiny steel thread insert to add a little bit of strength, FSA uses a huge chromoly insert. They manufacture them in two half’s and thread them in from each side until they meet in the middle.

The arm set comes in three lengths; 165mm, 170mm, and 175mm, for those of you that are picky like that. Weight isn’t a serious issue with these. They weigh in at about 950 grams with chain rings and bash ring, and 671 grams with no rings or bash rings. For an inexpensive and really burly crank set, that’s a pretty respectable weight.

So, if you’re not to sure how to install your new crank set, here is how:

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Using an 8mm allen wrench, remove the crank bolt. Inspect to make sure that the thin washer between the crank bolt and crank shoulder is removed. (Your crank set may not have this)

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Using a proper crank extraction tool, remove the crank arm from the bottom bracket spindle. Be sure that you are using an ISIS crank extracting tool. There is a difference between square taper bolt hole size, and ISIS bolt hole size, therefore the two tools have a different size extracting face.

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Transfer your chain rings from your old setup to your new setup, including E plates or bash rings. Once you have installed your drive train components, its time to reinstall the crank arms. Make sure that you clean the bottom bracket spindle so that all dirt particles and old dirty grease are no longer there. Re-apply thick grease to either the spindle or ISIS splines in the crank arm. This is to prevent seizing and creaking. Using the same 8mm Allen wrench, torque the bolts until the crank arm bottoms on the bottom bracket shoulder. You should be able to feel the sudden increase in force required to keep tightening. (You may need to remove the crank arm and re-install it a second time to get it to fully seat)

The final step is installing the pedals. Make sure that you grease the pedal threads for the same reason as the bottom bracket spindle. Note that the two pedals have different threads. It’s really easy to remember, left hand pedal is left hand thread. (Counter clockwise to tighten) The right hand pedal is right hand thread. (Clockwise to tighten)

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Ok now you have installed a new set of cranks to replace those older twisted ones you ran all season. Your bike will feel so much better for doing that.

To learn more about FSA products, just visit www.fullspeedahead.com

Posted In:
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31 Comments
  • 0 0
 ya those "cheap" pedals you speak of are $230. I guess they aren't as much as the $310 version.
I was just commenting I thought it was funny that someone basing an article on being poor and not being able to afford cranks had some crazy blinging excessive parts.
  • 0 0
 Why not just spend a bit more at the start on something like Saints, and then not have to worry about replacing them each season? And yeah, a carbon bashguard seems a little pointless for someone that is concerned with a cheap way of getting a long life out of products.
  • 0 0
 This has turned out to be more of a critique of the author's bike instaed of constructive criticism about ways to make his how to better.

So here's my .02

I don't really have any more to add that hasn't been said here already (in the posts that actually addressed the question) more pics/vids, list of tools etc.

So I work in a shop and having a working knowledge of everything out there is almost impossible without studying manuals like homework. Needless to say the internet is a huge help and is used everyday and by far the most helpful manufacturer's site I have seen to date is Fox Shox's.

check this out

service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm

I just picked any fork but that's not the point. Their walkthroughs are near perfect. It starts off with a list of all the tools you'll need and has tons of big pics. If you're looking for a template for a how-to section it doesn't get much clearer than this.
  • 0 0
 and carbon fibre's strength is immensely compromised once the outer protective layer is chipped away so having it as a bashguard?? so sure your cranks will stay straight once the guard has dissipated all the impact by imploding.
  • 0 0
 There's nothing wrong with a carbon bash guard. It is a little flimsier than lexan, polycarbonate or aluminum but it's primary use isn't to allow you to bounce off rocks, it's a chainguide. I use carbon parts on my '07 Glory, and I've never chipped my handlebar or hit my bashguard. I also run a 42 tooth chainring, so it is in the way sometimes but picking smooth lines is how you take seconds off your times at races. Stop being so concerned about his bike, that's not the point.
  • 0 0
 667, yeah! i dident want to go down that road, but there is alot of expencive parts on that bike, that does not really need to be expencive.a good pair of cranks would be a higher priority for me than a carbon chainguide. But whatever floats your boat!
  • 0 0
 id just like to add fsa's customer service is shit.. theyre offices are in the us but manufacturing is overseas so if you need that one little part or to deal with warranty is a hassle.. myself and a few friends have had issues with them.. so i tossed all my fsa parts for a more reliable north american companys stuff.. hitting a price point isnt always good in the long run especially with a crankset..
  • 0 0
 Did you try Orange Sports Supply or Cycles Lambert? Those are the 2 Canadian distributors for FSA and I've had great interaction with both as a consummer.
  • 0 0
 maybe things are different her in the us, but I’ve had to get in touch with them a few times as of late and I've gotten nothing but good dealings!
  • 0 0
 yup i tried both orange and lambert even marinoni (who were the most helpfull and they dont really do much mtb or bmx stuff) My problems were with the us office (sales and warranty) I was searching for a 22mm crank bolt for a set of there chromo cranks and ended up never getting one - not worth the hassle..
  • 0 0
 man the comments started off constructive then fell apart... overall i think the article was great, and well written.. it wasn't full of ridiculous short hand or spelling errors .. something i really appreciate. i agree with jvnixion.. that a tool list should be included in the article. perhaps, in addition, i'd like to see some images of the crankset disassembled .. with perhaps all the pieced labled.. i don't know.. just a few suggestions. - ryan
  • 0 0
 i think that new steel insert is awesome! I stripped the pedal out of my cranks after an 8 foot to almost flat roof drop on a hardtail. Then i bought new truvativs. I only wish i woulda seen these earlier so i could do it again.
  • 0 0
 I have the same carbon guide and it has lasted alot longer then any al. mrp i have run in the past. The carbon mrp boomerang is prolly the best thing I have bought for my bike, its flexy so it just bends back after hits. Al. boomerangs used to last me 2-3 months but the carbon version has been on my bike for over a year I think now and is perfectly striaght. My plates are chipped a bit but otherwise are perfect, the most reliable chainguide I have used. It is not just plastic people.
I know this kid, he is actually poor as **** and spends what little cashmoney he has on nice reliable parts.
And good article, Cori.
  • 0 0
 Big tip is to teflon tape wrap the bb threads and the pedal threads in addition to grease. This is an extra step to keep things tight and squeak-free. It also keeps water out of the bottom bracket.
  • 0 0
 I just turned 18 and I too work at a shop and have the same exact bike...working at a shop doesn't make things that much cheaper for whoever thinks that and nice Bash...interesting choice!
  • 0 0
 subtle, very subtle. you know these are the same as the FSA el toro dh's. of which i have picked up a pair of for 30 quid / 60 bucks. I think you need to redifine poor dude :p
  • 0 0
 I kinda stopped feeling for the author and how he was so poor when I saw his $170 Carbon MRP bashguard and his $200 and god knows Syncros pedals.
  • 0 0
 he works in a shop and probably gets things at cost.
  • 0 0
 The Author is 17 and yes he has the nicest guide, but really what is wrong with really wanting something and saving your money for it? As for the pedals=those are actually the cheapest Syncros pedals you can get, NO replaceable pins, its all one big piece of stamped alloy. No where near as expensive as the "real deal", but hence having spent 2 pay checks on a nice guide. I'm sure we've all made sacrifices for the parts we have on our bikes. But really the point of the story is to tell you about good crank options and how to swap them out, not to feel pitty.
  • 0 0
 im wondering why the hell would you put a carbon bashgaurd on a dh bike.... why would anyone use it on anything other than a 4x bike!? the "cheapest" Syncros pedals are still around $250 at Universal Cycles and yet for the price of his pedals, he can get 2 sets of cranks. I'm a bit lost. But yeah Brule, the point is to show how to replace cranks, well said
  • 0 0
 Hey man, we all have cash flow problems at one time or another. When I have cash I tend to waste it on things like carbon bash guards. When I don't and I need a part, I buy whats cheap like FSA Canks. It's like buying a Cherry Bomb for your exhaust instead of replacing it with Masterflow. Comprehend?
  • 0 0
 hey buddy, I went through three fsa cranks. they are not very good.
  • 0 0
 Are these cranks pretty good....like better than hussefelts?
  • 0 0
 Great article, there should be more how-to articles on pink bike.
  • 0 0
 would you prefer video "how-to's" or in the form of an article, like this one?
  • 0 0
 I think a combination of the two would be best. That way you can print off the directions to take with you, and watch the vid to see how it's done.
  • 0 0
 another tip would be to list the tools used in the how-to article.
  • 0 0
 good feedback - thanks!! Also thanks to c.o.d51! Cheers!
  • 0 0
 i agree with you 667 them pedal cost more then some top cranks
  • 0 0
 truvativ all the way
  • 0 0
 The bash is so skinny!:S







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