dmrluc

Heated grips exist, my guy. Not only do they exist, but you have options. https://extremelimite.ca/products/hb-01-heated-grips-for-fatbike-usb-power-source-fat-bike-poignees-chauffantes?srsltid=AfmBOoom0sYNEB5mLW1NkL5qKi-l7oobYfAHGdhkY91h5yWJ7Q0v49Vk These ones are only 10$, so cheap you can't afford not to! https://www.amazon.ca/OTDOGUO-Motorcycle-Handlebars-ElectricScooter-HandlebarsWarmer/dp/B0DX6VFJZB/ref=sr_1_24?crid=29CAZ0YEMVW9S&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6LSsRr8nmRtIg3xpTcy0prPOchMx4256BNCPHn6FGVosmXV7I3CIDbOSo_-gREzmyn-NEl5EWSgoIo0g5avBLQMlqcRUQIV5pC5K916-7LWl2EtO5btvp5_oQp3SkZAgEmBTkZOFaOO3GVXDlJoLRjK9DF-EphzAiOivWFF_HuYBArKNzjoCUY3h6QUuG185Om2iDz5QYbXlvhzv2Y0l-MwdfUi0In6EpBRWkM1NQkKmkmSjJ5JFzYEfIMFtb4D7i7E05owUkEkdqq6ovIPmYWfp2WGgJzO9wQsJMyPkGR0.2gv0p5WXa-Lv0zWvAxa5kLKZfo0nDvslpfGVtWicUCs&dib_tag=se&keywords=heated+bicycle+handlebar+grips+usb&qid=1763420400&sprefix=heated+bicycle+handlebar+grips+usb%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-24 These ones have a thumb heater, I'm sure you're creative enough to make that work for your brake lever. https://www.amazon.ca/YOUNICE-Handlebar-Temperature-Adjustable-Motorcycle/dp/B0DTDTH1GF/ref=sr_1_13?crid=10Q07IKI9FH1E&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.K4xGotfif-kQOZUVmSVmcVcAdUUiaDqPXIkfO44RCW79qsu8lVHR1vTJW4SvW23DxksOQzGWl4uDYc9iLI2w4MUr87udzqDRcaRHsduGgch86ucG8xB0xhLtzBuE35W27UuGh2EsNVlFgbfyYhlD_MBmwiGgKLTf_tf9zwBGAPHYszQOkevMSnLn4SfzXxisNMLzucXlvh9Tw7Fauag4rnM7-ZvOUmf_rhyOKax3RIKRI6tabXUF_IkuozJT4WFsSmIvLEFZ_NVg1_ME6iTiLbw_6vMXDpkYIPEIJiXQ85k.MUsQxZ4beGXA9c0WlmlqBY-N2JwdMHY5cDVvIHN2flk&dib_tag=se&keywords=heated%2Bbicycle%2Bhandlebar%2Bgrips%2Busb%2Bthumb&qid=1763420528&sprefix=heated%2Bbicycle%2Bhandlebar%2Bgrips%2Busb%2Bthumb%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-13&th=1 Almost any ATV/sled/motorcycle heated grip will work, as long as it can be run off a USB power bank or you know how to do some wiring.

JNCO re-issue incoming. Alt solution, size 44 Carhartts hemmed with a pocket knife.

Released in 95.

I wear my 100% briskers and 100% waterproof gloves pretty often in the winter in Manitoba. It's not always -20, it was +1 today and I wore the Briskers on a fat-bike ride. When it's actually cold I often wear a leather work mitt similar to Dario's with pile lining and a wool liner. I know mitts on a bike aren't a common choice, but I like it and since I run a Sram shifter and my brakes gloves to the bars dexterity has not been an issue. Pogies on top when it's proper cold...

@tacopop: Bro tell me you didn't just claim that. There are at least 6 US-based deck makers and three Canadian ones, and a whole host of European ones. It takes like three seconds to find the source of each brand. Or just buy a Powell Peralta, they've always been MUSA.

@cougar797: Friend, I feel ya the internet is a scary place. I was/am a journeyman welder, and I've worked in warranty for a long time now. I've also been a bike mechanic for over 20 years. I've repaired steel frames, aluminum frames and carbon frames.

@mkul7r4: Well, I've built a few frames myself, repaired a few more and spent a handful of years as a metal fabricator, so I have a pretty good idea of what it takes to repair/weld a steel bike or part. I've also spent the last decade of my life in warranty departments for bike companies, so I have a pretty good idea of what fails and how often. When steel fails, it is typically a tubing failure, cracked welds are relatively rare. This means you need to remove the tube, carefully file away any material, and then select and fit a new tube. Generally, a tube fails because it is too thin or over-stressed, but most tube sets are selected as a whole package so changing just one can lead to problems in other areas, or compromise the ride quality. You also need to jig and align the frame, even the best frame builders in the world will have some amount of tension in a welded frame, so the moment you remove a tube the frame is no longer straight. Weld sequence is incredibly important for a steel frame, welding in just one tube is nearly guaranteed to warp the frame and require a cold set after wards, adding another layer of tools and complexity. It is also very time-consuming, so unless the frame holds more sentimental value than anything it is unlikely worth repairing. But that's up to the rider to decide. the last tube I replaced was a cracked DT, it would have been faster for me just to build a whole new bike, but I'm stubborn and my labour is free so I did it anyway. I'd say it took me about 10 hours of labour including paint, my hourly rate when I was a welder (in 2017) was 140$/hr + material, so we're looking at well over 1000$ for a competent welder to replace a tube. Ish. Aluminium has all the same headaches, with the addition of needing to be heat treated. Aluminium frames are largely considering un repairable,but I'm sure someone is going to tell us about the time their buddy welded their 2012 Rocky maiden chainstay back together and its been fine ever since. Carbon on the other hand can be repaired pretty easily, assuming the crack is accessible. Carbon usually fails from an impact, so the stress of the frame hasn't caused the crack, making it even simpler. In the event the frame has cracked under normal use, you can usually just reinforce it from the outside without removing too much material. A carbon frame also won't move while being repaired, so it is more likely to remain straight throughout the process. The materials to fix it are cheaper, the labour is shorter, the methods are substantially easier to learn, and the list goes on. Carbin is cheaper, easier, and simpler to repair. You can "fix" steel in a ghetto fashion pretty easily, but doing it properly is a whole different ball game.