uskas

I used a Dremmel to make 4mm more place for the metal plate in a FiveTen Hellcat and fit is perfect now. My old Magped pedal bodys are full of rock scars but the magnets are intact. I received new ones for a very good price as the older ones had a design problem and bushings caught a lot of debris and started to play and no replacements are available. I now use them on another bike as flat pedals and have no problem with grip. They actually have the shape of DMR Vault which are one of the most used flat pedals. I'm still not impressed with the new pedal construction and think sealing could be better but I'll see how it will work out, the old ones lasted more than 2 years. 200N magnet is just enough for me to hold the shoes in place when riding and at the same time still allowing for a foot unmount with a vertical movement, I wouldn't install more powerful magnets. I'll keep using Magpeds as the work very good for an average weekend warrior like me, I would suggest you try a pair if you can.

Adjustable HTA /reach, I'd take 1.5 degrees /1.5cm, the rest you can do with modified fork travel/sag/front wheel size, handelbar stack/rise. Adjustable shock mounts, Rocky Mountain type both ends of shock (trunnion mount go to Hell). Adjustabla CS, >1.5cm. And you can experiment as you like and adapt to terrain and changing riding style. I don't trust bike manufacturers will or can guess what is best for me. To those who think I am overconfident: if you're passionate enough you can get some great results, todays designers had to learn too to get where they are. You'll make some mistakes along the way but so did they and it is part of learning process.

Sure man, I wish all countries were >90% va cinated like Portugal and Australia, Now those countries are living a normal life and just forgot about COWVID. The other countries that did not take the n+1 booster are distroyed by the new Omicron. You fascist....

200N magnets and new stronger plates and you'll have no issues with the force. They also have some plastic plate frames that will ensure the position is always the same. It was not perfect for me because with a pair of FiveTen Hellcat the shoe was not close enough to the crank for my lyking. But with a little bit of cutting and grinding I manadged to make them work perfectly.

I had the 150N magnets too initially on a set of Enduro pedals based on the weight recommandation. Switched to 200N and was better but still could not lift the bike with one pedal connected. They also made a set of stronger plates recently (30% force increase) and they're perfect now.

@rynee: Just in case you have to deal with a Manitou Junit 20 in the future (quite high probability in 20 inch category) : I did not receive a reply from Hayes yet so I did some research and opened the fork. If you ever try it , make sure you have a thin wall 8mm socket wrench (can be found in the Mattoc Service Tool kit). On the top of the air piston there is a valve that can be used to equalize the positive and negative chanbers. That can be actuated by the pin of the air valve. At the same time the air valve at the bottom of the fork (quite a bad design to have that close to the brake disk if you ask me) is used to fill in the negative chamber. For some reason, when connecting the shock pump, air was only entering the negative chamber. I think this design is very sensitive to shock pumps and it's bet to have one where you can set the travel of the pin precisely after connecting the pump. So, what I did was to inflate the negative chamber a little (fork travel will be reduced). Then force the fork to remain fully extended and actuate the pin of the air valve just a little(about 1mm) until you feel the fork remains extended by itself (air flows from negative to positive chamber). Now I have a fork that is suitable for a kid. Using my weight I can easily bring it to full travel. Related to travel, measuring the air shaft at full extension it is more like 100mm. The topout bumper can be compressed 10-15mm , but I would not say it is a full 120mm fork.... but whatever, it works ok. Inside the shaft there is a white cylinder shaped spacer of arount 40mm. If one really wants I think it can be removed and replaced with 30mm of mattoc travel adjuster discs and increase the travel a little. I asume this would also increase the volume of the negative chamber a little (white spacer is of hard plastic and ocupies all space) , achieving an effect similar to that of Luftkappe. But this would be too much I guess and I also did not check how much the damper side can extend.

@rynee: So, I ceceived my Clash 20 :) Actual weight with original pedals is 13.1kg. I made some upgrades and is now at 12kg. Most weight reduction came from tires where I switched to Spawn Brood Maxtion (so damn expensive with shipment from Canada). Default tires from Vee have 725g and the tube inside 210g. Maxtion have about 440g and with tubeless another 50g, so I saved about 450g per wheel. The Maxtions hold tubeless well and are a sort of miniature HighRollers / DHR2 , so good braking traction. Vee Flow snap are a sort of DHF and are not so good at braking but they still have good traction in general. Default Vees I also tried tubeless and they worked somehow (slow leackages that should not be an issue at low pressures) but I suspect they saved some money there as they are wired so most probably not real tubeless ready. If you have a look on the Vee Tires site they don't even have this option so it must be an OEM option (a bad one). Only issue I have with the Maxtions is they are just a little too narrow maybe, but it's something you can get used to. When my kid will grow more I think I'll take a set of tubeless ready Vee FlowSnap as the outer diameter of the wheel is also bigger compared to Maxtions. Some more reduction came from changing the cranks to 115mm (527g - 482g ~= 50g) and the bottom bracket (320g-250g = 70g). I ordered a Titanium square BB from China with 30EUR and if it's 140g as advertised there I gain another 100g there and that should be it. I still have a problem with the fork setup (seems like the two air chambers are not equalyzing) so the fork is too stiff. In use the max travel is about 30% (my kid doesn't do jumps yet). As a result I wrote an e-mail to Manitou, I hope I get the needed help. Bike is much overbuild, they could have easily saved weigth on the wheels (rims are very thick, spokes could be less and double butted) and on the rear triangle. But there is no better option I think and my kid loves it.

@rynee: I had the chance to put my hands on one that was 1 or 2 years old and I did not like how the fork worked. I also tried one HT from commencal and the fork was much better. I also put my hands on a Commencal clash 20 and is a tank. I would say it depends on the purpose: Frechdax is more XC oriented , Clash is more downhill/bikepark oriented.

@Bikerdude137: I checked again, it is quite a bit in front of the spindle. What I remembered is that I would have liked it a few millimeters more in that direction maybe, but nothing critical. Here is how it looks , this is a US size 9 Hellcat: https://www.pinkbike.com/u/uskas/album/Magped/ I would be curious about how your Giro fits. I prefer them to clips because I also like to be able to take my foot out of the pedal without making rock&roll moves.