It just had a full rebuild from rockshox do im not sure what the issue is. Even without myself on the bike I can push it down and watch it creep up... I'm definitly going to look into a bigger spring. Like wasabijim said, it's a cheap enough trial before I go any deeper into it. Part of me wants to abandon it and just buy a new shock though haha
The shock should have some letters printed on the stem to the piggyback, just near the ending stroke rebound adjuster. Something like M/L or H/M. What does yours say?
How many clicks of adjustment are you getting from the main rebound dial (the red one at the other end of the shock to the piggyback/blue compression dial and ending stroke rebound adjuster)? Do you notice any difference at all when adjusting this red dial from full open to full closed? How long does the shock take to re-extend with this dial set to full closed, and how long at full open?
The dual rebound adjustments in the Vivid shocks is key to getting it to rebound correctly. My suggestion would be to try RockShox suggested setup setup 1st, before getting too worked up.
At the end of it, you may still need a stiffer spring. Just make sure you get your shock feeling good first, and change the spring rate after.
Has anyone upgraded their fox 34 with the new air spring that retrofits to older models? I'm broke as hell otherwise I'd grab a pike but I've found reasonably priced 160 travel 34's. Right now I'm on a 2013 revelation, it works, but it doesn't exactly handle the rowdy too well.
Has anyone upgraded their fox 34 with the new air spring that retrofits to older models? I'm broke as hell otherwise I'd grab a pike but I've found reasonably priced 160 travel 34's. Right now I'm on a 2013 revelation, it works, but it doesn't exactly handle the rowdy too well.
Sorry for the late response, I am getting the full amount of clicks for all three dials. With no weight on the bike it takes 2-3 seconds for the bike to come back after a full compression. Changing the dials does nothing for this. I'm thinking the shock is f*cked
Sorry for the late response, I am getting the full amount of clicks for all three dials. With no weight on the bike it takes 2-3 seconds for the bike to come back after a full compression. Changing the dials does nothing for this. I'm thinking the shock is f*cked
This sounds like your shock is stuck on full slow, and the adjustment knob is not altering the position of the low speed needle. Your shock probably isnt f*cked, it probably has just been put back together incorrectly. Send it back to RS and ask them to fix it for free.
Yea there is but all the rebound knob is, is an Allen key that goes into the shock body. You could try removing it and adjusting the rebound to fully fast with an Allen key
does anyone know if its possible to add degree of progressiveness to a BOS fork? its the BOS Deville 140 AM. little brother to the 160 with different dampening
Speaking of Tokens, is it ok to use muc off bio grease on the o-ring in the cap where you screw the tokens (I'm running a 160 mm RS Pike on a Transition Patrol)? The video suggests using a little grease, I don't know if it's ok to use the grease I got or if I should get a different one. Thanks for the advise!
Speaking of Tokens, is it ok to use muc off bio grease on the o-ring in the cap where you screw the tokens (I'm running a 160 mm RS Pike on a Transition Patrol)? The video suggests using a little grease, I don't know if it's ok to use the grease I got or if I should get a different one. Thanks for the advise!
as a general rule of thumb, if it's grease and suspension related you should use slick honey or slickoleum.
Speaking of Tokens, is it ok to use muc off bio grease on the o-ring in the cap where you screw the tokens (I'm running a 160 mm RS Pike on a Transition Patrol)? The video suggests using a little grease, I don't know if it's ok to use the grease I got or if I should get a different one. Thanks for the advise!
as a general rule of thumb, if it's grease and suspension related you should use slick honey or slickoleum.
I've had good results with Stendec Easyglide. Im thinking that for your specific case that ring isn't doing any serious work, its just a matter of keeping it moist and preventing the token threads from seizing so anything that's safe with rubber will to the trick.
They ask you lightly grease the o-ring to lessen the chance it would get damaged when screwing the top cap back on, especially important if you are testing between tokens and are removing/installing it frequently.
does anyone know if its possible to add degree of progressiveness to a BOS fork? its the BOS Deville 140 AM. little brother to the 160 with different dampening