I just bought a used 2018 Cannondale Scapel-Si and the chainring looks worn. I'm shopping for replacements and see that it has a proprietary "Ai" offset (some mumbo jumbo about an asym rear triangle pushing most of the drivetrain 6mm outboard). For the life of me, I can't seem to figure out what to shop for when looking for a direct mount X-Sync 2 chainring replacement. It seems to me that the 3mm and 6mm offset chainrings are for 'regular' boost or non-boost drivetrains. At the same time, I don't see any listed for as specifically saying they fit this unique Cannondale Ai situation. Can someone set me straight?
I really don't like that you used one half (the convex half) of a conical washer pair from a V-brake. Either use both halves of the pair so they can bear the clamping load properly, or only use ordinary flat washers.
I really don't like that you used one half (the convex half) of a conical washer pair from a V-brake. Either use both halves of the pair so they can bear the clamping load properly, or only use ordinary flat washers.
Agreed. Grab a couple of flat washers. Your brake caliper is likely to come loose like that.
hi all .......i have a set off sid ultimate 35 mm forks......is there anyway i can up the travel to 130 and what airshaft would be compatible.....thanks
hi all .......i have a set off sid ultimate 35 mm forks......is there anyway i can up the travel to 130 and what airshaft would be compatible.....thanks
I have a trek pro calibre , the bb is pf92 I have a standard pf dub bb in it but I have sram t type wide dub cranks …….can I still use them and what spacers will I need for the correct chainline …….thanks
What is the rear axle width? 148? If so it should just be a 6mm spacer on the left. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Been out of bike shop life for a minute.
There are so many things wrong with that setup. I might feasibly ride that bike to the shop. Once. But I certainly wouldnt ride it down an extended steep hill.
A) Disc rotor isnt going to be fully in the pads. If the pads wear enough they will meet and you will fairly suddenly lose all braking power
B) It's going to howl like a banshee, probably vibrate itself loose, and get really hot on long descents
What is the rear axle width? 148? If so it should just be a 6mm spacer on the left. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Been out of bike shop life for a minute.
. Yes the rear axle is 148 , but I have been told to put a 3mm spacer on the non drive side and a 5 or 7.5 mm spacer on the drive side
What is the rear axle width? 148? If so it should just be a 6mm spacer on the left. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Been out of bike shop life for a minute.
. Yes the rear axle is 148 , but I have been told to put a 3mm spacer on the non drive side and a 5 or 7.5 mm spacer on the drive side
There are so many things wrong with that setup. I might feasibly ride that bike to the shop. Once. But I certainly wouldnt ride it down an extended steep hill.
A) Disc rotor isnt going to be fully in the pads. If the pads wear enough they will meet and you will fairly suddenly lose all braking power
B) It's going to howl like a banshee, probably vibrate itself loose, and get really hot on long descents
C) your caliper mount bolts are bent now.
Yeah, its really only temp until the new brakes and mounts come. Bolts are still true.