There are so many things wrong with that setup. I might feasibly ride that bike to the shop. Once. But I certainly wouldnt ride it down an extended steep hill.
A) Disc rotor isnt going to be fully in the pads. If the pads wear enough they will meet and you will fairly suddenly lose all braking power
B) It's going to howl like a banshee, probably vibrate itself loose, and get really hot on long descents
C) your caliper mount bolts are bent now.
Yeah, its really only temp until the new brakes and mounts come. Bolts are still true.
No, the angled mount means that if those bolts are tight, the heads are being bent. I've seen (far too many) calipers set up with angled mounts and no cps washers, and the bolts are always bent.
I don't quite see why you have gone for this setup. In the picture you have posted, there is tons of spacer between the top of the rotor and the inside of the caliper. At least at the front, I can't see the back. It looks to me like you could fit the cps washers properly (both cup and cone ON TOP of the caliper below the head of the bolt) without losing all that clearance. You may need to add a could more flat washers to the two pairs you already have under the caliper spacer. This would be a much better setup, and one I'd be perfectly happy to run indefinitely.
There are so many things wrong with that setup. I might feasibly ride that bike to the shop. Once. But I certainly wouldnt ride it down an extended steep hill.
A) Disc rotor isnt going to be fully in the pads. If the pads wear enough they will meet and you will fairly suddenly lose all braking power
B) It's going to howl like a banshee, probably vibrate itself loose, and get really hot on long descents
C) your caliper mount bolts are bent now.
Yeah, its really only temp until the new brakes and mounts come. Bolts are still true.
No, the angled mount means that if those bolts are tight, the heads are being bent. I've seen (far too many) calipers set up with angled mounts and no cps washers, and the bolts are always bent.
I don't quite see why you have gone for this setup. In the picture you have posted, there is tons of spacer between the top of the rotor and the inside of the caliper. At least at the front, I can't see the back. It looks to me like you could fit the cps washers properly (both cup and cone ON TOP of the caliper below the head of the bolt) without losing all that clearance. You may need to add a could more flat washers to the two pairs you already have under the caliper spacer. This would be a much better setup, and one I'd be perfectly happy to run indefinitely.
Thanks mate! Really appreciate your time and thoughts. I'll have another go at getting this right. Really just messing about until the new brake and rotor set comes
This is a RD-M8000 11spd derailleur that I am trying to mount on a hardtail frame I just purchased (Whyte 905 V3 2021). I know mech hangers are frame specific but are they brand (ie Shimano or SRAM) specific?? I cannot get this mounted with the current hanger. Any thoughts appreciated.
This is a RD-M8000 11spd derailleur that I am trying to mount on a hardtail frame I just purchased (Whyte 905 V3 2021). I know mech hangers are frame specific but are they brand (ie Shimano or SRAM) specific?? I cannot get this mounted with the current hanger. Any thoughts appreciated.
Yeah, to use a Shadow RD without the link requires a Shimano direct-mount type hanger, and while they exist for several frames, it looks like nobody's done one for the 905 (at least according to my cursory search).
This is a RD-M8000 11spd derailleur that I am trying to mount on a hardtail frame I just purchased (Whyte 905 V3 2021). I know mech hangers are frame specific but are they brand (ie Shimano or SRAM) specific?? I cannot get this mounted with the current hanger. Any thoughts appreciated.
Is there anything unsafe about using these bolts ( i know they are atrocious but im just concerned w safety right now).
Thanks
Nothing wrong with using a bolt with a different tool interface, per se. But what the photo doesn't show is, is the thread correct? Needs to be M6 x 1. I'm assuming it was and they threaded in smoothly.
Also can't tell how long they are--need to have the correct amount of engagement. I don't know what that length is offhand, but I believe it's something like 8 or 10 mm of threads that are actually threaded into the adapter