Marzocchi 380 Master Thread

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Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
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flag way2manyhobbies2keep
Posted: May 13, 2016 at 9:14 Quote
[Quote="djii"]
jewpowered wrote:
My fork is currently 90% disassembled. I am hoping to take pictures once its all clean and I start reassembly

when I spoke with NAZ at marzocchi/fox Canada, he recommended 150cc's of oil in the spring side and 110cc's in the damper.

As stated earlier, the 2014 manual said 60cc/ml, 2015+ says 80ml, and I'm not the first person to hear more is better

When removing the compression unit, DO NOT TURN HIGH SPEED ALL THE WAY OUT. this caused my compression unit to seperate and drop all the shims. The oil had them all stuck together so it was easy to re-assemble after I damn near had a heart attack and called Naz.

When re-installing the compression unit, make sure low speed compression is turned all the way out


Hi I just finish rebuilt mine and I have a strange noise now.

First, I put much more oïl than before so maybe is that.

Seconde, my spring start to loose is transparent protection so maybe is that.

Third, I also drop all the shim and sadly maybe mine are now mixed up.

If you can please post a real explosion view of the component.


noises can be any of those things, especially with how much grease marz puts on their springs from the factory


if you drop the shims it goes (in order installed): spring, seat, shims in order from smallest to largest, cap/seal/endpiece whatever you call it
flag way2manyhobbies2keep
Posted: May 13, 2016 at 10:17 Quote
Removing the damper,
first remove the rebound knobs, on the r2c2 this is done by removing the set grub screw with a tiny allen, i am unsure of size.under the rebound know is the HRS key which is 7mm, you will need to hold this with a mm wrench or socket while loosening the 14mm base nut. assuming the crown is already off the forks, use a 33mm socket to remove the top cap.
while over an oil pan, remove the damper, the fork leg is now free floating, you can pull it out if you want.
photo
Clamp the damper gently in a vice as shown, With a 26mm cone wrench ($8 from park on amazon) you can index the HSC know to the flat spots on the top cap, make sure your HSC is not turned all the way out! but your LSR should be all the way out. If the HSR is turned all the way out during disassemble it can drop the shims which was an easy fix, but a cause of an anxious beer break. Using your wrench turn the cap all the way out, keep a hand on top as its under pressure and keep a rag handy, there will be oil!


photo
Once removed, remove the damper from the vice and pour/cycle out all oil, return the damper to the vice, fill the damper with 7.5wt oil about 3inches from the top, slowly cycle the leg until all the bubbles are out, if you cycle it fast, you're gonna spray oil (SON OF A BITCH). Fill the damper to 67mm from the top (2 5/8") doesn't have to be exact

When re-installing the compression unit, did you make sure the LSC is all the way out?, with a rag wrap the damper compensation ports(bleed holes), if you don't it will spray oil in a stream out both sides (MOTHERF****). Press the compression unit in with moderate force and screw it down a thread or two before switching to your wrench to finish it off. Your Done! Re-install in reverse order. oil instructions below
photo
To remove the Spring side, I like to remove the top cap (33mm) and spring first and drain the leg. On the bottom of the leg its secured by a 14mm nut, once again you will need to secure the middle with a 8mm allen, with the nut removed you can remove the leg, the spring assemble is attached to the leg with a snap ring, remove the snap ring and out comes the base and elastomer.
photo
My elastomer measured 6" as Marzocchi had already trimmed it. I further trimmed mine down to 5" using a utility knife in a sawing action.

After reinstalling the spring base assembly back into the (cleaned) leg and re-installing the snap ring, I reinstalled the leg into the fork and tightened the base nut, there is more than one way to skin a pig here so feel free to deviate. I filled the spring leg from the top and re-installed the spring and top cap. As recommended I filled the leg with 150cc/ml of 7.5 weight, but for this leg you can really use any weight you want! Should have used the shit tons of Maxima 10wt I have running around. Spring side is done!

I slid the right leg gently into the lowers, grease is recommended, then installed/screwed the damper into the leg, pulling the leg out just enough to leave a gap at the hole int the lowers, I added 110cc/ml of 7.5wt to the damper leg through the hole and re-installed the base nut.

DONE!
flag fedralseth666
Posted: May 15, 2016 at 12:16 Quote
hi all, im new to the 380 fork, i had mine serviced by marz nz, befor riding it, it makes a weird high pitched squeel at the top of its travel whilst riding and also intermittently tops out with a harsh clunk, is this normal?
flag frampo
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Posted: May 16, 2016 at 4:49 Quote
i was out riding my 380 yesterday on some rough trails and it appears that i dont have my settings dialed in correctly, my hands were aching and eventually lead to arm pump.

i backed off almost all of the low speed compression and slowed down the low speed rebound which helped slightly,

then backed off the high speed compression so it was completely open and again this seemed to help a little.

i really want to find the sweet spot so the forks are supple over rough terrain. Could it be the spring i am running is too soft?

what settings are people running for HSC, LSC, HSR and LSR?
flag smuggly
Posted: May 16, 2016 at 5:20 Quote
fedralseth666 wrote:
hi all, im new to the 380 fork, i had mine serviced by marz nz, befor riding it, it makes a weird high pitched squeel at the top of its travel whilst riding and also intermittently tops out with a harsh clunk, is this normal?

None of this sounds good nor normal - my 380 is one of the quietest forks I have used.

Presuming you are running some rebound, and the top out coil is inside the fork - sits between the base plate and the rod the coil sits on.

Potentially 3 causes for this (or more) for a squeal

Is if from the damper / turbulent sound - does it make it withe zero compression and rebound on?;

From the bushings or something else - if it was bushing you'd feel it binding I'd think;

Is the coil spring somehow not seated correct or the plastic spring coating torn and on compression the spring is rubbing?
flag way2manyhobbies2keep
Posted: May 16, 2016 at 7:55 Quote
fedralseth666 wrote:
hi all, im new to the 380 fork, i had mine serviced by marz nz, befor riding it, it makes a weird high pitched squeel at the top of its travel whilst riding and also intermittently tops out with a harsh clunk, is this normal?

try dialing in some high speed rebound, the damper bleeds off as its filled upon rebound, during hard hits and fast deep rebounds it can certainly squeal, especially if marz used a heavier weight oil.

As to Frampo's tuning post, what model/year are you running, what is your weight and spring rate.

The best cause imo for fatigue with this fork is too slow of rebound, with the 5.5nm spring in my fork I am running (from full open, 2 clicks in LSR, and 4 clicks HSR.

I have a fair amount of preload and compression in there
flag frampo
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Posted: May 16, 2016 at 8:01 Quote
jewpowered wrote:

try dialing in some high speed rebound, the damper bleeds off as its filled upon rebound, during hard hits and fast deep rebounds it can certainly squeal, especially if marz used a heavier weight oil.

As to Frampo's tuning post, what model/year are you running, what is your weight and spring rate.

The best cause imo for fatigue with this fork is too slow of rebound, with the 5.5nm spring in my fork I am running (from full open, 2 clicks in LSR, and 4 clicks HSR.

I have a fair amount of preload and compression in there

im on a 2015 model, im about 182lbs without kit and have a 6.5 spring. i can get full travel on them on bigger hits.
flag henkster
Posted: May 16, 2016 at 20:59 Quote
frampo wrote:
jewpowered wrote:

try dialing in some high speed rebound, the damper bleeds off as its filled upon rebound, during hard hits and fast deep rebounds it can certainly squeal, especially if marz used a heavier weight oil.

As to Frampo's tuning post, what model/year are you running, what is your weight and spring rate.

The best cause imo for fatigue with this fork is too slow of rebound, with the 5.5nm spring in my fork I am running (from full open, 2 clicks in LSR, and 4 clicks HSR.

I have a fair amount of preload and compression in there

im on a 2015 model, im about 182lbs without kit and have a 6.5 spring. i can get full travel on them on bigger hits.

I'm 205lbs and run the 6.5 spring too. I need a bit of high speed compression to stop the fork from bottoming too hard on the bigger drops. I wouldn't get suitable sag with a stiffer spring, so I'm sticking with the 6.5

With arm pump from repeated small features and braking bumps I'd recommend just opening up the slow speed rebound and slow speed compression - usually by equal amounts. This will make the fork a little more supple on the little stuff. If you go too slow then the fork will bob less but the fork won't glide with that famous Marzocchi's plushness. There's a sweet balance point in there somewhere with enough systematic playing around.

On trails with less braking bumps and chatter I will dial in 2 clicks of LSR and LSC to stabilize the fork a little more (so it doesn't bob as much when sprinting, or dive as much under braking).

My settings for braking bump trails are (number clicks from fully open):
LSR +4
HSR +5
LSC +3
HSR +5
Preload +7

6.5 Ti spring
7.5wt fluid
Elastomer cut back by 40mm
Wiped after each ride with Fork Juice
205lb rider
flag henkster
Posted: May 16, 2016 at 21:05 Quote
fedralseth666 wrote:
hi all, im new to the 380 fork, i had mine serviced by marz nz, befor riding it, it makes a weird high pitched squeel at the top of its travel whilst riding and also intermittently tops out with a harsh clunk, is this normal?

I'd check the spring's clear wrap. Mine made the same noise/clunk when it had broken down a bit. You can get some new stuff from this chap on eBay, the 45mm diameter stuff works beautifully. Just strip the old covering off, wipe the spring clean, slide this stuff over and gently heat with a heat gun.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262306992383
flag frampo
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Posted: May 16, 2016 at 23:43 Quote
frampo wrote:

im on a 2015 model, im about 182lbs without kit and have a 6.5 spring. i can get full travel on them on bigger hits.

My settings for braking bump trails are (number clicks from fully open):
LSR +4
HSR +5
LSC +3
HSR +5
Preload +7

6.5 Ti spring
7.5wt fluid
Elastomer cut back by 40mm
Wiped after each ride with Fork Juice
205lb rider[/Quote]

Now I'm wondering if my forks aren't working quite right as those settings are almost identical to what I was running when I was getting these issues, I had 6 preload and one extra click of other than cutting the elastomer which I don't think I need to do as I can get full travel from the forks.

My settings were

LSR +2
HSR + 5
LSC +4
HSC +6

this is how many clicks my forks have on each adjustment from open to close,i saw elsewhere than others forks had more or less clicks on some settings. do they vary from the 2014 and 2015 forks?

LSR 16 Clicks
HSR 14 Clicks
LSC 18 Clicks
HSC 13 Clicks
flag only1mikey
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Posted: May 17, 2016 at 12:33 Quote
Having a hell of a time dialing in the suspension. Any pointers would be much appreciated!

Here is my stripped '15 Glory Size Large

photo


Front I had a 7.7 spring in my Marzocchi 380. Harsh, like 4" trail trail bike harsh. Got a ti 5.5 spring cheap. Now I am wishing I had a 6.5 spring honestly, I feel like that's one of the main issues

I am 5-10 and 180lb geared up. Should I swap the 7.7 coil back in? Keep the 5.5 and add more preload? Thicker oil? Thoughts???

Thanks!
flag henkster
Posted: May 17, 2016 at 13:43 Quote
only1mikey wrote:
Having a hell of a time dialing in the suspension. Any pointers would be much appreciated!

Here is my stripped '15 Glory Size Large

photo


Front I had a 7.7 spring in my Marzocchi 380. Harsh, like 4" trail trail bike harsh. Got a ti 5.5 spring cheap. Now I am wishing I had a 6.5 spring honestly, I feel like that's one of the main issues

I am 5-10 and 180lb geared up. Should I swap the 7.7 coil back in? Keep the 5.5 and add more preload? Thicker oil? Thoughts???

Thanks!

You need the 6.5 by the sounds of it. I'm fast and heavy and there's no way that you should need a spring that stiff.

You want to start with getting the right sag without too much preload, otherwise you're just fighting the fork setup - it's designed around 20-30% sag and if you're not starting there then it'll never feel right.
flag henkster
Posted: May 17, 2016 at 13:46 Quote
frampo wrote:
frampo wrote:

im on a 2015 model, im about 182lbs without kit and have a 6.5 spring. i can get full travel on them on bigger hits.

My settings for braking bump trails are (number clicks from fully open):
LSR +4
HSR +5
LSC +3
HSR +5
Preload +7

6.5 Ti spring
7.5wt fluid
Elastomer cut back by 40mm
Wiped after each ride with Fork Juice
205lb rider

Now I'm wondering if my forks aren't working quite right as those settings are almost identical to what I was running when I was getting these issues, I had 6 preload and one extra click of other than cutting the elastomer which I don't think I need to do as I can get full travel from the forks.

My settings were

LSR +2
HSR + 5
LSC +4
HSC +6

this is how many clicks my forks have on each adjustment from open to close,i saw elsewhere than others forks had more or less clicks on some settings. do they vary from the 2014 and 2015 forks?

LSR 16 Clicks
HSR 14 Clicks
LSC 18 Clicks
HSC 13 Clicks[/Quote]

The 380 is way more high maintenance than my old 888. I used to ride half a season every 2-3 days doing 4 hours of park laps, then service it and not feel much of a difference. My 380 gets noticeably harsher as time passes, even with a Teflon treatment on the stanchions, and wipes of silicon after every ride. The oil change/seal lube really helps plush it up again. Maybe worth a try?

I'm assuming that you're on stock 7.5wt oil too. If you've switched it for a different weight then you'll need to factor that onto the damping settings.

I find that 1 or 2 clicks off my fork's sweet spot makes a big difference with chatter bumps, maybe try a click or two slower. If the rebound is too quick then it'll still feel harsh as the tire will be hitting the ground too fast (and slapping the face of the next bump) and that'll make enough vibration to give you arm pump.

What sag are you running?
flag only1mikey
O+
Posted: May 17, 2016 at 14:16 Quote
It has 7.5wt fork oil per the invoice I got with the fork.

And sorry in advance I've never setup a bike based on sag numbers. It's the wrong way to do it, I know, but I start off with a click or two of preload with a heavier that I should ride with spring then go from there.

I'll check what I am getting sag wise when I get home, I don't have an o ring on the fork so I'll see if I can get someone to help me with that.

Thanks for your base line settings, I'll give those a go. I just hate a mushy divey fork.
flag frampo
O+
Posted: May 17, 2016 at 15:20 Quote
Just took my forks off the bike and went to move them by hand with no compression and fastest rebound. I couldn't move them. I then put the lowers on the floor and got them to move but sound they got stuck down and didn't return to full travel. I think the bushes are too tight.

They are going back to the uk distributor/marzocchi uk this week to get looked at. This will be the second time they have gone back with a similar issue. Last time they came back with new lowers and stanchions.

I have been emailing steve at vorsprung about my issue and he has suggested getting the bushes resized and that if the distributor are just replacing lowers it may not fix the issue.

 


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