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My Wheel Building Guide

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My Wheel Building Guide
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flag Thorjensen
O+
Posted: Sep 28, 2021 at 12:38 Quote
@justjake

I cant comment on the length of the spokes as I see that you have used the ERD that DT Swiss claims.
Do your self a favor and get the rims home first and meassure the ERD your self. You often cant use the listed ERD.

I've used the spoke calc from wheelpro on all my builds and it have been spot on.

Remember if you use the DT Swiss calc it will subtract 1mm from the spoke with DT 14mm nipples and 2mm from 16mm nipples.

If you use Sapim nipples the internal threads are the same 12, 14 and 16mm nipples.
flag seraph
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 0:37 Quote
justjake wrote:
seraph wrote:
justjake wrote:
Looking to build my first set of wheels and doing the calcs, would anybody like to weigh in as I’m not 100% certain at this point, here are my specs and calcs so far:

Rim:​​FR560
Size:​​27.5
Holes:​​32
Rim ERD:​563mm
Height:​​21mm
ID:​​30mm
OD:​​35mm

Hub:​​Hope Pro 4 12 x 148 boost
PCD L:​​57mm
PCD R:​​57mm
Spoke ID:​2.6mm
Spoke no:​32
Offset L:​35mm
Offset R:​22mm
Pattern:​3-cross J bend

Spokecalc.io:​​Non-drive = 272.81mm & Drive = 271.46 mm
UBI:​​​Non-drive = 272.8mm & Drive = 272.5mm
QBC:​​​Non-drive = 273mm & Drive = 271.5mm
Freespoke:​​Non-drive = 273mm & Drive = 271.5mm

Any advice appreciated, this is just for the rear.

If you got 14mm brass DT Swiss nipples, looks like you could do 272mm left, 270mm right.

Right ok, I’ll look into that. What’s the rule of thumb when spoke length falls between sizes, i.e. 0.5mm, do you round up or down? Thanks!

Generally speaking, you round down for the drive side and round up for the non-drive side (rear only). To a point though. Figure that your drive side spokes will be higher tension than non-drive side and thus are more likely to bottom out under tension. Likewise your non-drive side spokes are unlikely to bottom out as their tension plays second banana fiddle to the drive side spokes.
flag Jvhowube
O+
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 8:10 Quote
seraph wrote:
Generally speaking, you round down for the drive side and round up for the non-drive side (rear only). To a point though. Figure that your drive side spokes will be higher tension than non-drive side and thus are more likely to bottom out under tension. Likewise your non-drive side spokes are unlikely to bottom out as their tension plays second banana fiddle to the drive side spokes.

I'm going through the same thing with my custom build - here's what I've got:

i9 hydras laced to ex511, 32h, 3x

Front Drive: 294.4
Front ND: 290.6
Rear Drive: 290.1
Rear ND: 291.8

All the spoke suppliers for sapim d-lights that I'm looking at only work in EVEN numbers, which works for everything but that front ND which should be 291.

Do you think it's ok to go down to 290 for that side?

Thanks!
flag Thorjensen
O+
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 8:37 Quote
Jvhowube wrote:
seraph wrote:
Generally speaking, you round down for the drive side and round up for the non-drive side (rear only). To a point though. Figure that your drive side spokes will be higher tension than non-drive side and thus are more likely to bottom out under tension. Likewise your non-drive side spokes are unlikely to bottom out as their tension plays second banana fiddle to the drive side spokes.

I'm going through the same thing with my custom build - here's what I've got:

i9 hydras laced to ex511, 32h, 3x

Front Drive: 294.4
Front ND: 290.6
Rear Drive: 290.1
Rear ND: 291.8

All the spoke suppliers for sapim d-lights that I'm looking at only work in EVEN numbers, which works for everything but that front ND which should be 291.

Do you think it's ok to go down to 290 for that side?

Thanks!
I'd use the following lengths if I got those calc spoke lenghts:

Front DS 296
Front NDS 292
Rear DS 290
Rear NDS 292
flag seraph
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 10:02 Quote
Thorjensen wrote:
Jvhowube wrote:
seraph wrote:
Generally speaking, you round down for the drive side and round up for the non-drive side (rear only). To a point though. Figure that your drive side spokes will be higher tension than non-drive side and thus are more likely to bottom out under tension. Likewise your non-drive side spokes are unlikely to bottom out as their tension plays second banana fiddle to the drive side spokes.

I'm going through the same thing with my custom build - here's what I've got:

i9 hydras laced to ex511, 32h, 3x

Front Drive: 294.4
Front ND: 290.6
Rear Drive: 290.1
Rear ND: 291.8

All the spoke suppliers for sapim d-lights that I'm looking at only work in EVEN numbers, which works for everything but that front ND which should be 291.

Do you think it's ok to go down to 290 for that side?

Thanks!
I'd use the following lengths if I got those calc spoke lenghts:

Front DS 296
Front NDS 292
Rear DS 290
Rear NDS 292

I definitely wouldn't round up on the front NDS. Round down. Adding 2mm could lead to bottoming out at or before tension.
flag Thorjensen
O+
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 14:18 Quote
seraph wrote:
Thorjensen wrote:
Jvhowube wrote:


I'm going through the same thing with my custom build - here's what I've got:

i9 hydras laced to ex511, 32h, 3x

Front Drive: 294.4
Front ND: 290.6
Rear Drive: 290.1
Rear ND: 291.8

All the spoke suppliers for sapim d-lights that I'm looking at only work in EVEN numbers, which works for everything but that front ND which should be 291.

Do you think it's ok to go down to 290 for that side?

Thanks!
I'd use the following lengths if I got those calc spoke lenghts:

Front DS 296
Front NDS 292
Rear DS 290
Rear NDS 292

I definitely wouldn't round up on the front NDS. Round down. Adding 2mm could lead to bottoming out at or before tension.

Been there before and it wont.
flag Petermtb45424
Posted: Nov 17, 2021 at 11:12 Quote
So i am currently looking at buying a nukeproof horizon v2 rear wheel with a shimano microspline free hub. I have a sram gx (12 speed) cassette and saw on online that I would need an xd driver for my cassette to fit onto this hub. So is it possible to swap these out (and is the job very complex? - as im not the best mechanic lol ) and would the driver body (that is linked below) fit. Thank you very much.

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/nukeproof-horizon-v2-freehub-body-102t?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=104700868&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=base&gclid=CjwKCAiA7dKMBhBCEiwAO_crFC8eoEvIyx3JaZeekO4muxAO8UfDScU7lnaivzjWLbwsIYYY--x7wxoCw14QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
flag LeithB
Posted: Jan 13, 2022 at 9:56 Quote
Hi,
I built a halo vortex rim up nearly 2 years ago and used straight guage steel spokes off the halo website. Recently the NDS spokes have started breaking spontaneously arround the j bend.

I was wondering if there is something i can improve in my wheelbuilding technique to increase the fatigue life. Or is 2 years an expected fatigue life for hard use on the rear end of a hardtail.
flag privateer-wheels
Posted: Jan 13, 2022 at 10:10 Quote
LeithB wrote:
Hi,
I built a halo vortex rim up nearly 2 years ago and used straight guage steel spokes off the halo website. Recently the NDS spokes have started breaking spontaneously arround the j bend.

I was wondering if there is something i can improve in my wheelbuilding technique to increase the fatigue life. Or is 2 years an expected fatigue life for hard use on the rear end of a hardtail.

Sounds like a combination of budget spokes and low or low and unequal tension, and possibly spokes that were not properly pre-stressed/de-stressed,

How did you pre-stress/de-stress your wheels when you built them?

What did you use to measure tension on your spokes when you were building? And did you recheck them at any point to make sure they held tension?
flag LeithB
Posted: Jan 14, 2022 at 5:26 Quote
I stood on the spokes whilst building the wheel to get them all seated properly then rechecked them after the first week of riding to make sure they hadn't come loose. I did have a few problems with them coming loose over the past 2 years though, any tips to stop this happening.
flag privateer-wheels
Posted: Jan 14, 2022 at 7:18 Quote
LeithB wrote:
I stood on the spokes whilst building the wheel to get them all seated properly then rechecked them after the first week of riding to make sure they hadn't come loose. I did have a few problems with them coming loose over the past 2 years though, any tips to stop this happening.


When you recheck, what does that mean? Are you using a tension meter to verify your tension? What tension are you building to?

Stepping on wheels is not the best way to get your spokes seated/lined-up and destress your wheel, in my humble opinion. There are far better ways to get the job done.

Rather than just grazing the topic here, you should really do some reading, most specifically on how to set spoke path, and how to prestress/destress. WheelFanatyk is a great resource, and I would suggest you read his series of wheel building tips.

https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/wheelbuilding-library/
flag LeithB
Posted: Jan 14, 2022 at 15:29 Quote
Thanks very much that is a very useful resource.
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 21, 2022 at 19:59 Quote
Hello guys,

Building a set of DT 470 with 350 strait pull hubs, just wondering if when using DT spoke calculator it counts rim washers? I know the DT 470 does not come with washers so I am guessing that the calculator does not include them right?
Cheers
flag seraph
Posted: Jan 21, 2022 at 21:20 Quote
lilaubert wrote:
Hello guys,

Building a set of DT 470 with 350 strait pull hubs, just wondering if when using DT spoke calculator it counts rim washers? I know the DT 470 does not come with washers so I am guessing that the calculator does not include them right?
Cheers

If the rim comes with washers, then the ERD listed by the manufacturer will include them. If they don't include washers, you can estimate their width and do the math with the ERD yourself.
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 22, 2022 at 9:13 Quote
seraph wrote:
lilaubert wrote:
Hello guys,

Building a set of DT 470 with 350 strait pull hubs, just wondering if when using DT spoke calculator it counts rim washers? I know the DT 470 does not come with washers so I am guessing that the calculator does not include them right?
Cheers

If the rim comes with washers, then the ERD listed by the manufacturer will include them. If they don't include washers, you can estimate their width and do the math with the ERD yourself.

Thanks

 


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