Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag u1grSxqY
Posted: Mar 18, 2024 at 12:16 Quote
rclugnut wrote:
u1grSxqY wrote:
The cheap plastic rebound adjuster knob hex key on my rockshox recon silver TK rounded off, so I replaced the cheap plastic one with the cheap red anodized aluminum one. It came with a new "housing stop" (I think that's what it's called... The part that the adjuster knob snaps onto), so I replaced that as well. I just backed the OEM "housing stop" out and screwed the shiny new red one in. Now I don't hear any clicks or feel any resistance at all when I turn the knob in either direction. Did I break it?

Not sure specifically with the TK units but a lot of their others the dentents you feel as clicks are usually from the knob interfacing with a feature on the foot nut.

Are you sure the knob is long enough though? Check with a 2.5mm (I believe ) Allen key to get insertion depth ..

You were correct sir! The 2.5 Allen key in my shiny new red knob was about 10mm shorter than the OEM knob. Mahalo.
flag aegiz
Posted: Mar 19, 2024 at 7:58 Quote
barp wrote:
aegiz wrote:
Vyckinis wrote:


Anyone?

The Shadow RD+ grease has a high timken OK load rating. I've not personally applied it to any other components so I can't speak about that.

I can however say that I've serviced many clutches where other (general assembly / high tack) greases were used and the result was often damaged / severely worn clutch assemblies.

Do you have a reference for its Timken test results? I'm not finding anything. Wondering how it compares to what I've been using at home (Mobilgrease XHP222: 40 lbs).

Unfortunately I don't have the data sheet for the grease. I'm just echoing what I was told by the lads at Shimano. Geek
flag bike2850
O+
Posted: Mar 19, 2024 at 9:02 Quote
Hi all,

I am looking to get a different ridged fork for my bike. My current fork has a 400mm axle to crown and a 44mm offset.

How much can I play with these figures to not impact the ride of the bike? Like is 390-410 axle to crown close enough? And which is more important to match closely, the offset or axle to crown?

This is going on a commuter/gravel/ light bikepacking bike.

Thanks!
flag gotohe11carolina
Posted: Mar 19, 2024 at 16:23 Quote
Axle to crown will affect head angle (longer/slacker shorter/steeper). Offset is the mtb way of talking about trail. You can read endless treatises on trail changes and handling characteristics. In general reducing offset increases trail which increases stability but makes steering lazier. You can get really in the weeds with a lot of this stuff. As long as you keep changes small, you probably won’t notice much.
flag dancingwithmyself
Posted: Mar 19, 2024 at 16:40 Quote
barp wrote:
dancingwithmyself wrote:
whitebirdfeathers wrote:
It was down the cassette to a harder gear. My chain and cassette were so beaten that the chain didn’t want to release easily from the two largest cogs. All good now.

Not a pro so my sample size is very small, but running XO1 chains and cassettes with Grax, this is now how the drive train wears out on my bikes. Length of chain simply doesn’t grow. Shift ramps wear and chain gets more horizontal flex and I compensate by reducing cable tension until the chain is clicking on the teeth of the smaller cog and then it’s worn out. If I don’t run SS ring, I go through several aluminum rings during this time.

Has gone this way for me a few times now. I ride undulating terrain and shift a lot. Am I totally missing something or doing something wrong. Love how long everything lasts, but it was reassuringly simple to use a chain checker and then see if the chain skipped under heavy load.

What chain checker are you using? Some are great and some are trash.

Park CC-4. Think it was a Dave Rome Cycling Tips article about the different type of rollers (or something like that) in Eagle chains and which chain checkers worked. Bought based on that article.
flag barp
Posted: Mar 19, 2024 at 16:54 Quote
dancingwithmyself wrote:
barp wrote:
dancingwithmyself wrote:


Not a pro so my sample size is very small, but running XO1 chains and cassettes with Grax, this is now how the drive train wears out on my bikes. Length of chain simply doesn’t grow. Shift ramps wear and chain gets more horizontal flex and I compensate by reducing cable tension until the chain is clicking on the teeth of the smaller cog and then it’s worn out. If I don’t run SS ring, I go through several aluminum rings during this time.

Has gone this way for me a few times now. I ride undulating terrain and shift a lot. Am I totally missing something or doing something wrong. Love how long everything lasts, but it was reassuringly simple to use a chain checker and then see if the chain skipped under heavy load.

What chain checker are you using? Some are great and some are trash.

Park CC-4. Think it was a Dave Rome Cycling Tips article about the different type of rollers (or something like that) in Eagle chains and which chain checkers worked. Bought based on that article.

Yeah, the CC-4 should do the job. So your chains are shifting badly before they even read a 0.5% on that tool? Weird.
flag ZenGecko
Posted: Mar 20, 2024 at 22:57 Quote
I have been asked to repair a seized dropper post for a friend. But this is unlike any I'm familiar with. Brand is KS but Im unsure of the model. There's no valve for air as I would have expected.

If anybody can advise if this is is serviceable please, and what is the mechanism, coil spring?

I would like to add a photo. Can do this here?

Thanks in advance.
flag pyromaniac
Posted: Mar 21, 2024 at 0:38 Quote
Yes, upload to your album. then copy the image link and post it with the icon 'PBimage'.

Where is the cable exiting the post? Some KS posts use an outer sleeve that has to be removed first to get to the actuator.
Also KS posts may use a cartridge where air pressure cannot be changed.
flag ZenGecko
Posted: Mar 21, 2024 at 6:34 Quote
Thanks. I'll do the pic tomorrow (it's night time here). But the cable runs up the outside of the post to a level at the top (just below saddle). Bottom of the post has a recessed metal cylinder shape, which I think is the air cartridge. It has a hex bolt hole in it, but unable to move it either direction and I'm in danger of rounding the hole if I keep trying.
flag pyromaniac
Posted: Mar 21, 2024 at 6:38 Quote
ZenGecko wrote:
Thanks. I'll do the pic tomorrow (it's night time here). But the cable runs up the outside of the post to a level at the top (just below saddle). Bottom of the post has a recessed metal cylinder shape, which I think is the air cartridge. It has a hex bolt hole in it, but unable to move it either direction and I'm in danger of rounding the hole if I keep trying.

That's the kind of post I witnessed trouble with before. On the post I took apart the housing that routes the cable to the bottom got contaminated and the cable seized.
I cannot think for a reason to have a left-hand thread on any bolt/screw on a dropper post. It's likely a regular bolt. Maybe try some heat.
flag leftypumpkin
O+
Posted: Mar 21, 2024 at 7:25 Quote
ZenGecko wrote:
Thanks. I'll do the pic tomorrow (it's night time here). But the cable runs up the outside of the post to a level at the top (just below saddle). Bottom of the post has a recessed metal cylinder shape, which I think is the air cartridge. It has a hex bolt hole in it, but unable to move it either direction and I'm in danger of rounding the hole if I keep trying.

So external routed cable with a lever up at the top of the post under the seat? Probably an older 950 or something. There is a post somewhere on the internet where a guy was able to rebuild their cartridge but its kinda dodgy. I had trouble getting the bodge to work putting air in (you use a soccer ball filling needle with some tape on it, tough part is getting it to seal to the fill hole). I think there are actual cartridges available for these now, but for the price of a cartridge you would probably be better off putting the money towards a new dropper. You can pull it apart and replace the seals/linear bearings if that is what is frozen but if it's spongey at all (air has gotten past the cartridge seals, last inch or so of extended travel you can push down on it), the cartridge needs to be bled and refilled or replaced.
flag ZenGecko
Posted: Mar 21, 2024 at 7:38 Quote
Ok thanks for the replies so far. I have got the post moving now with the top cap (is thatvwhay its called) unsrewed, and there's a lot of friction when sliding the top cap up the shaft. So it seems like it just needs stripping and cleaning and regreasing. If only I can it apart!
flag dancingwithmyself
Posted: Mar 22, 2024 at 5:38 Quote
barp wrote:
dancingwithmyself wrote:
barp wrote:


What chain checker are you using? Some are great and some are trash.

Park CC-4. Think it was a Dave Rome Cycling Tips article about the different type of rollers (or something like that) in Eagle chains and which chain checkers worked. Bought based on that article.

Yeah, the CC-4 should do the job. So your chains are shifting badly before they even read a 0.5% on that tool? Weird.

I think I'm mostly right to say I'm burning through the shifting ramps on the cassette (with some side-to-side play in the chain thrown in) before I elongate an X01 chain enough that it needs replacement. My shifts are smooth and not noisy. I'm 215 and get after it pretty good for a mid-40s desk jockey. Getting good life out of a chain and cassette. Before I switched to SS rings, I'd burn through multiple rings on a single chain and cassette. Chain would mesh smoothly with brand new ring.

I'm happy with my set up. Mainly wondering if it was just me, which looks to be the case judging by the responses. I guess "user name check out"?
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Mar 22, 2024 at 13:38 Quote
ZenGecko wrote:
Thanks. I'll do the pic tomorrow (it's night time here). But the cable runs up the outside of the post to a level at the top (just below saddle). Bottom of the post has a recessed metal cylinder shape, which I think is the air cartridge. It has a hex bolt hole in it, but unable to move it either direction and I'm in danger of rounding the hole if I keep trying.

Is it an ETen R? If so this may prove useful. All the places where threadlock is suggested are threaded, although the diagram doesn't show this clearly.

https://kssuspension.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/C256-ETEN-R-272-Exploded-Views-a1.pdf
flag riish
Posted: Mar 26, 2024 at 2:45 Quote
Anyone here sent their fork into SRAM Germany for a CSU creak before?

Having some troubles with both my CSU and with bushing scoring on a Lyrik, interested in hearing if anyone’s had good/bad experiences with them

 


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