Ibis S35 wheels

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flag Digarcia1987
Posted: Jan 3, 2020 at 18:03 Quote
I’m considering these rims as an upgrade from my DT Swiss M1700 wheels. I run Maxxis 2.3 or 2.4 in the rear and 2.4 or 2.5 up front. Is 35 ID too much for my tire size? Ibis recommends 2.35-2.8 is there an honest review of these rims? I can’t seem to find one.
flag Branmuffin
O+
Posted: Jan 4, 2020 at 12:08 Quote
Digarcia1987 wrote:
I’m considering these rims as an upgrade from my DT Swiss M1700 wheels. I run Maxxis 2.3 or 2.4 in the rear and 2.4 or 2.5 up front. Is 35 ID too much for my tire size? Ibis recommends 2.35-2.8 is there an honest review of these rims? I can’t seem to find one.
.

These are the same as the new Stans Carbon rims. They are essentially the same just rebranded with the Ibis name. Look up reviews for Ibis 2019 bikes and you will find reviews of the wheels also.
They get pretty much glowing reviews top to bottom and very reasonably priced for a top of the line wheel.

I am not running these wheels currently but looking into building a set. The most optimal tire is probably 2.5 to 2.8 but I doubt you would have much of a problem running 2.4 or 2.3 but might start to square the tire off.
They also make a S28 wheel, which is 28mm ID, if you NEVER want to run a 2.5 or larger tire, maybe look at the S28.
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 4, 2020 at 14:08 Quote
With current tread designs, yes, that will be too wide for almost any tire. Advanced riders will be able to lean the bike beyond the tread, causing a sudden crash when the lugs give out and leave only sidewall on the ground. Intermediate riders may not be able to lean the bike far enough, but if they do, it will cause a big setback in their skills as they become wary of turning hard.
flag Branmuffin
O+
Posted: Jan 4, 2020 at 15:43 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
With current tread designs, yes, that will be too wide for almost any tire. Advanced riders will be able to lean the bike beyond the tread, causing a sudden crash when the lugs give out and leave only sidewall on the ground. Intermediate riders may not be able to lean the bike far enough, but if they do, it will cause a big setback in their skills as they become wary of turning hard.

Not sure I agree here, or I am misunderstanding your comment. Many pro enduro riders run wheels of 35mm ID and off the shelf Maxxis tires. I know the Ibis enduro team ran these in the past. The issue you are talking about is specifically addressed with the Maxxis WT series tires which provides a better profile for tires on 30+mm ID wheels.
Why would they be selling these wheels if the continually failed to hold a turn? WAO, DT, I9 and most big wheel manufacturers are now selling 35mm ID wheels.
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 4, 2020 at 16:04 Quote
Right, I typed that a bit hastily. Any 2.3" - 2.4" tire, as specified by Digarcia1987.

I'm using 36 mm rims. Most 2.5" tires are too flattened for my liking, as are many 2.6". The best profiles I've used are Kenda's new models and the worst is the Vittoria Martello. Maxxis, Specialized, WTB, Onza, and IRC are all in the middle.
flag stiingya
Posted: Jan 4, 2020 at 22:13 Quote
Wish they would have made something in between of the two rims, like 32.5? IW. I love the profile, and the 18.0mm depth on these rims. It's odd that Stans isn't/hasn't started selling a version of the 35IW rim?

I was considering building with these rims and doing the 28.6 in back and the 35 in front. I think your less likely to lean the rim into the group on the front. (also I'm not an "advanced rider" anyway) Smile
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 4, 2020 at 22:21 Quote
stiingya wrote:
Wish they would have made something in between of the two rims, like 32.5? IW. I love the profile, and the 18.0mm depth on these rims. It's odd that Stans isn't/hasn't started selling a version of the 35IW rim?

I was considering building with these rims and doing the 28.6 in back and the 35 in front. I think your less likely to lean the rim into the group on the front. (also I'm not an "advanced rider" anyway) Smile

Just use wider tires!

The front is where you need more tread wrap, so put the narrower rim on the front if you use a mixed set like that.
flag Branmuffin
O+
Posted: Jan 5, 2020 at 4:58 Quote
stiingya wrote:
Wish they would have made something in between of the two rims, like 32.5? IW. I love the profile, and the 18.0mm depth on these rims. It's odd that Stans isn't/hasn't started selling a version of the 35IW rim?

I was considering building with these rims and doing the 28.6 in back and the 35 in front. I think your less likely to lean the rim into the group on the front. (also I'm not an "advanced rider" anyway) Smile

Stans does make a 35mm ID wheel, it’s called the Baron CB7
flag RoadStain
Posted: Jan 5, 2020 at 7:29 Quote
[Quote="Branmuffin"]
R-M-R wrote:
W
Why would they be selling these wheels if the continually failed to hold a turn? WAO, DT, I9 and most big wheel manufacturers are now selling 35mm ID wheels.

I would say for the same reason Zipp was making Clydesdale wheels and continues to make "aero" wheels for the least Aero humans on the planet.It is easier to market "new" than it is to market "updated". Soon enough we will be back to skinny road tires at high PSI and skinny MTN rims as well.....just evolution evolving to meet the sales projections of the marketing departments.
flag stiingya
Posted: Jan 5, 2020 at 15:02 Quote
Branmuffin wrote:
stiingya wrote:
Wish they would have made something in between of the two rims, like 32.5? IW. I love the profile, and the 18.0mm depth on these rims. It's odd that Stans isn't/hasn't started selling a version of the 35IW rim?

I was considering building with these rims and doing the 28.6 in back and the 35 in front. I think your less likely to lean the rim into the group on the front. (also I'm not an "advanced rider" anyway) Smile

Stans does make a 35mm ID wheel, it’s called the Baron CB7

Thanks! Then I guess it's interesting that I haven't seen it as a build option in any of the places I've been looking yet. But maybe just availability??

Thanks again...
flag Branmuffin
O+
Posted: Jan 5, 2020 at 16:15 Quote
stiingya wrote:
Branmuffin wrote:
stiingya wrote:
Wish they would have made something in between of the two rims, like 32.5? IW. I love the profile, and the 18.0mm depth on these rims. It's odd that Stans isn't/hasn't started selling a version of the 35IW rim?

I was considering building with these rims and doing the 28.6 in back and the 35 in front. I think your less likely to lean the rim into the group on the front. (also I'm not an "advanced rider" anyway) Smile

Stans does make a 35mm ID wheel, it’s called the Baron CB7

Thanks! Then I guess it's interesting that I haven't seen it as a build option in any of the places I've been looking yet. But maybe just availability??

Thanks again...

Yep they are probably not widely available yet. S35s have been hard to come by, ibis is not even selling them directly to consumers as they have no surplus but you can snag them as hoops to be built or occasionally some big box sites have them.
Keep in mind the Baron cb7 is the same wheel as the s35 but the ibis branded hoop is $100 cheaper.
flag stiingya
Posted: Jan 5, 2020 at 16:56 Quote
R-M-R wrote:

Just use wider tires!

The front is where you need more tread wrap, so put the narrower rim on the front if you use a mixed set like that.

Just got some wide trails to try, 2.5 front and 2.4 rear. For sure Maxxis says the WT's are good for a 35IW. Just seem to read mixed results/opinions on the interewebs...?

I would think the other way for tread wrap? I'm more aware of what my front wheel is doing, VS I just don't have the skills to be aware of what my rear wheel is rolling into. Mostly anecdotal, but it seems like it's the rear wheel getting beat up more for me??? (not that I"d purposefully "want" less tread wrap on the front, which is why I wish they made a ~32.5IW. Just that I think the back gets more wear and tear...?)

At any rate, I'm looking at a DIY crank brothers synthesis set up with a narrower stiffer rear wheel and a more compliant wider front wheel. (in theory since I"m just trying to hack together a wheel set and do 32 back 28 front, etc.)

Might just try some aluminum rims first to see how it goes, plus easier to get the widths closer than 28.6 and 35, AND the cost of the experiment would be MUCH cheaper... Smile
flag stiingya
Posted: Jan 5, 2020 at 17:00 Quote
Branmuffin wrote:

Yep they are probably not widely available yet. S35s have been hard to come by, ibis is not even selling them directly to consumers as they have no surplus but you can snag them as hoops to be built or occasionally some big box sites have them.
Keep in mind the Baron cb7 is the same wheel as the s35 but the ibis branded hoop is $100 cheaper.[/Quote]

Yea, saw the price difference. Funny that Stan's thinks they are worth more with their stickers? Smile (but maybe there is a reason/cook them with special sauce...? Smile I didn't stay on the page to read...)
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 5, 2020 at 20:20 Quote
stiingya wrote:
For sure Maxxis says the WT's are good for a 35IW. Just seem to read mixed results/opinions on the interewebs...?

A lot of companies say a lot of things; doesn't make it true. A new Maxxis 2.5" does work reasonably well on 35 mm rims. Tread is more flattened than I like to see, so I wouldn't fully trust it to hold maximum lean angles - not without adjusting my technique to reduce the angle of the bike, at any rate. Also, the sidewalls are slightly prominent of the tread, making them more vulnerable to cuts. I certainly wouldn't run a 2.4" on a 35 mm rim.


stiingya wrote:
I would think the other way for tread wrap? I'm more aware of what my front wheel is doing, VS I just don't have the skills to be aware of what my rear wheel is rolling into. Mostly anecdotal, but it seems like it's the rear wheel getting beat up more for me??? (not that I"d purposefully "want" less tread wrap on the front, which is why I wish they made a ~32.5IW. Just that I think the back gets more wear and tear...?

There's no amount of awareness that will save you if you lean beyond your lugs - you'll be on the ground before you even realized you were slipping. It's as if the trail suddenly turned to ice. The front wheel has a little more lean angle than the rear and - most importantly - there's a chance you can recover a rear wheel slide, but it's almost impossible to recover the front. It's something you want to avoid on either wheel, so we're arguing over which kind of nearly instantaneous crash is slightly worse!

Something we haven't discussed: I feel we should be riding really wide rims - much wider than current norms - to better support wide tires with light casings. Unfortunately, this isn't possible without a lot more tread wrap. I do want to encourage you to use wide rims, I just don't think it's safe to push it too far with current equipment.
flag Digarcia1987
Posted: Jan 5, 2020 at 21:16 Quote
I’ve heard no mention as to the quality of the rim and hubs. How reliable, how strong are these wheels. How do they compare in compliance to other carbon rims. I’d like a carbon wheel with built in flex characteristics without sacrificing integrity.
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