So at least you'll have an idea anyway, and THESE say they're 1,870g's and that's just over 4 lbs which frankly doesn't sound right for some reason? I have a SJ expert and my stock wheels are the Roval Travers carbon, and THEY say they're 1,870, but I highly doubt they weigh that. I should have weighed them, but I've had them off changing tires and I still can't believe if that's true, doesn't make sense to me, but...
~JSV
not the same wheels, the wheels on the Comp and below are quite a bit heavier than the Traverse wheelset on the Expert
i was missing the upper compression ring for the headset from the factory! issue resolved
myz250f wrote:
I am having an issue eliminating movement in my upper headset. I have added plenty of grease and I am using the supplied file cap, and carob spacers. My stem topcap has plenty of preload and it it not bottoming it on the fork steer tube. Any suggestions
I’ve heard that the Traverse wheels on the comp model are not the hand built wheels and are heavier than the advertised weight for the standard Roval traverse’s. I weighed the rovals off my ‘21 SJ Evo Expert and they were pretty spot on with advertised weight.
I’ve heard that the Traverse wheels on the comp model are not the hand built wheels and are heavier than the advertised weight for the standard Roval traverse’s. I weighed the rovals off my ‘21 SJ Evo Expert and they were pretty spot on with advertised weight.
Yeah, I think the Comp's are supposed to be right around 2,100g, so about what my Expert wheels weigh with CushCore installed.
I’ve heard that the Traverse wheels on the comp model are not the hand built wheels and are heavier than the advertised weight for the standard Roval traverse’s. I weighed the rovals off my ‘21 SJ Evo Expert and they were pretty spot on with advertised weight.
the wheels on the comp aren't the "traverse" model, they're just no-name specialized rims. Only the expert gets the Traverse alloy, and the Pro gets the Traverse Carbon
I’ve heard that the Traverse wheels on the comp model are not the hand built wheels and are heavier than the advertised weight for the standard Roval traverse’s. I weighed the rovals off my ‘21 SJ Evo Expert and they were pretty spot on with advertised weight.
the wheels on the comp aren't the "traverse" model, they're just no-name specialized rims. Only the expert gets the Traverse alloy, and the Pro gets the Traverse Carbon
I have an expert (2019) and that has the carbon. I'm sure the weight spec' is correct, I'll trust it, but it's just that when I've handled the wheels off the bike they didn't "feel" nearly that weight to me. I could weigh them I guess, but barring that I'll trust the spec. Very happy with the carbon rims though, going to the 29s I think it helps with the stiffness which I like.
ahh hem... they make a cooler "sound" when shifting gears too.
Anyone 5’10” on an S3 and what are your thoughts? Currently on a 2018 Devinci Django large. I can get the S3 pretty close with a 50mm stem but the slacker head angle and steeper seat angle is tough to account for.
Anyone 5’10” on an S3 and what are your thoughts? Currently on a 2018 Devinci Django large. I can get the S3 pretty close with a 50mm stem but the slacker head angle and steeper seat angle is tough to account for.
I am 5' 11" on an s4 and wouldn't change a thing. 32" inseam.
Anyone 5’10” on an S3 and what are your thoughts? Currently on a 2018 Devinci Django large. I can get the S3 pretty close with a 50mm stem but the slacker head angle and steeper seat angle is tough to account for.
I am 5' 11" on an s4 and wouldn't change a thing. 32" inseam.
I think if I were a little taller the decision would be easier.
I'm 6'1" on an S5 EVO, can't imagine the S3 working. The S4 feels great, but the extra reach and longer stays on the S5 EVO provide some nice stability on fast trails.
I always have an issue with bike "sizing", and always advocate for "going bigger" lol.
6ft, 34 inseam, I switched several years ago from L/S4 to XL/S5 and will never go back. I went to try some Stumpy's in S4 before I got THIS SJ I have now--felt like riding a kids bike to me after adjusting to the next size up for all this time.
I know it's not right for everyone, but I have a few friends now that are going to next-size-up frames after riding all my XL's and they're a little shorter, just now going (for them) from M to L and feel more comfortable with the extra reach. Probably if I was riding a road bike for 80-100 mile trips, yeah I might think about going down a size, but on MTB it's liberating to have that extra space for varying body position, many reasons.
When my dropper is down I can still get way back with positioning and distributing weight, no prob at all. I actually "feel" when riding that this IS indeed the correct size even though I'm kind of between sizes, but LBS's are always recommending me to a S4/L but no way. At least take an honest test ride for a reasonable amount of time on the next-up size if there's a chance you're on the fence about it. Then if the next size DOWN is actually what you should be riding, you'll FEEL CORRECT on that one anyway.
All I'm saying to riders is it shouldn't be a mystery. Anyone getting a new or different bike should know what it feels like on both size frames.