The MTB Quick Question Thread 3.0 - Parts names & abreviations link on first post.

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The MTB Quick Question Thread 3.0 - Parts names & abreviations link on first post.
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flag VF400rider
O+
Posted: Jan 4, 2017 at 12:08 Quote
Hey all, I've got a 2004 specialized bighit and I'm shopping around for new tires to run tubeless. The trouble is I have the unicorn size 24'' rear which makes finding tires rather difficult. I'm currently running Kenda nevegal DH casing Stick-E compound 2.5'' front and rear. I like the tires but can't run them tubeless as the bead is too hacked up from being on and off the rim too many times. I'm looking for something that rolls a little bit better than the nevegals as well. They're grippy but I find they suck alot of speed on as soon as the terrain starts to flatten out.

I've heard that High Rollers roll faster than Nevegals. As such I'm considering running Maxxis High Rollers (the first gen) with a 2.5'' (maxxpro60a compound) DH casing on the rear as this is essentially all I can find. On the front I'm debating between 2.5'' and 2.35'' and I'm leaning towards the Supertacky42a compound as I tend to prefer more grip in the front.

The area I'm ride at the moment has hills but no mountains (Coming from B.C. Quebec doesn't really compare for the most part) so I'm looking for something that offers a little more flow. I often ride exposed rock, some loam, some hardpack dirt as well. I ride DH/Freeride, but not alot of lift access as there's none close to where I live so maybe only ~6 times a season.

So let me know 2.35 vs 2.5 front, compound types and if you know of any other 24'' rear tires that I could still get my grubby little mitts on, I'd love to hear about them!
flag mrgonzo
Posted: Jan 4, 2017 at 20:47 Quote
Good luck with 24" tires, the best ones I found were some dh tires off the specialized website a few years back that weighed a ton but gripped nicely, I think they were like triple walled.

I had some good times on my big hit, glad you are still enjoying yours
flag brianl
Posted: Jan 5, 2017 at 10:43 Quote
VF400rider wrote:
Hey all, I've got a 2004 specialized bighit and I'm shopping around for new tires to run tubeless. The trouble is I have the unicorn size 24'' rear which makes finding tires rather difficult. I'm currently running Kenda nevegal DH casing Stick-E compound 2.5'' front and rear. I like the tires but can't run them tubeless as the bead is too hacked up from being on and off the rim too many times. I'm looking for something that rolls a little bit better than the nevegals as well. They're grippy but I find they suck alot of speed on as soon as the terrain starts to flatten out.

I've heard that High Rollers roll faster than Nevegals. As such I'm considering running Maxxis High Rollers (the first gen) with a 2.5'' (maxxpro60a compound) DH casing on the rear as this is essentially all I can find. On the front I'm debating between 2.5'' and 2.35'' and I'm leaning towards the Supertacky42a compound as I tend to prefer more grip in the front.

The area I'm ride at the moment has hills but no mountains (Coming from B.C. Quebec doesn't really compare for the most part) so I'm looking for something that offers a little more flow. I often ride exposed rock, some loam, some hardpack dirt as well. I ride DH/Freeride, but not alot of lift access as there's none close to where I live so maybe only ~6 times a season.

So let me know 2.35 vs 2.5 front, compound types and if you know of any other 24'' rear tires that I could still get my grubby little mitts on, I'd love to hear about them!
Check Specialized, the Roller is listed with 24" sizes.
flag xTheRoseRedx
Posted: Jan 8, 2017 at 12:49 Quote
Why is it more difficult to build a rear wheel, than a front wheel? Most places say that the rear is more difficult but why.
Assuming it is down to the fact it is more common to see rear wheels with offset flanges, which is the only thing I can think of that'd make them more difficult.

Any other reason?
flag hairy-g
Posted: Jan 8, 2017 at 13:22 Quote
xTheRoseRedx wrote:
Why is it more difficult to build a rear wheel, than a front wheel? Most places say that the rear is more difficult but why.
Assuming it is down to the fact it is more common to see rear wheels with offset flanges, which is the only thing I can think of that'd make them more difficult.

Any other reason?

I've only ever built rear wheels and never found anything too challenging. Could be down to potential dishing?
flag xTheRoseRedx
Posted: Jan 8, 2017 at 13:42 Quote
That's what I thought, since hubs are usually offset on the rear, not the front... It must be down to getting the correct true/dish on the offset as it's different and harder than standard layout of a non offset hub.

Reason I ask is I have a wheel assessment for my job so have been getting up to scratch but only had a front wheel at hand to learn on with flanges the same. I have gotten the pattern down, but just wondered why people say the rear is harder, if I was missing anything. But the front and rear must be pretty similar! Haha
flag omtimasprime
Posted: Jan 8, 2017 at 16:02 Quote
xTheRoseRedx wrote:
That's what I thought, since hubs are usually offset on the rear, not the front... It must be down to getting the correct true/dish on the offset as it's different and harder than standard layout of a non offset hub.

Reason I ask is I have a wheel assessment for my job so have been getting up to scratch but only had a front wheel at hand to learn on with flanges the same. I have gotten the pattern down, but just wondered why people say the rear is harder, if I was missing anything. But the front and rear must be pretty similar! Haha

Ya I've built a few wheels and for me it doesn't matter. Just sometimes takes a little bit longer to get the dish set on the rear.
flag riish
Posted: Jan 8, 2017 at 17:13 Quote
Probably just uneven spoke tensions and dishing that make it harder. Some hubs have different hub flange diameters each side too
flag R-trailking-S
O+
Posted: Jan 8, 2017 at 17:22 Quote
For me the problem is keeping the tension even for rear wheels- the offset forces me to take more passes with smaller turns to keep it even.

Fronts, especially zero offset, are really quick.
flag omtimasprime
Posted: Jan 8, 2017 at 17:32 Quote
Ya most rear wheels typically use different spoke tensions for each side because of the offset
flag xTheRoseRedx
Posted: Jan 9, 2017 at 5:47 Quote
Brilliant, cheers for the replies guys!
The patterns are all the same, so it was what I thought which was tension and dishing. I'll see if I can find a suitable rear wheel to pull apart and give it a go I assume. I have the front down, at least pattern wise anyway, tensioning without all the proper tools makes life a bit harder. I have read that people advise nipping all nipples so you have about 2 threads showing and then start tightening from there, apparently that's the easiest way to do it from what I have seen online.
flag downhiller900sl
Posted: Jan 9, 2017 at 6:24 Quote
xTheRoseRedx wrote:
Brilliant, cheers for the replies guys!
The patterns are all the same, so it was what I thought which was tension and dishing. I'll see if I can find a suitable rear wheel to pull apart and give it a go I assume. I have the front down, at least pattern wise anyway, tensioning without all the proper tools makes life a bit harder. I have read that people advise nipping all nipples so you have about 2 threads showing and then start tightening from there, apparently that's the easiest way to do it from what I have seen online.

Showing where? In the inner circumference of the rim? Or above the head of the nipple?
flag oldmanDan
Posted: Jan 9, 2017 at 9:31 Quote
downhiller900sl wrote:
xTheRoseRedx wrote:
Brilliant, cheers for the replies guys!
The patterns are all the same, so it was what I thought which was tension and dishing. I'll see if I can find a suitable rear wheel to pull apart and give it a go I assume. I have the front down, at least pattern wise anyway, tensioning without all the proper tools makes life a bit harder. I have read that people advise nipping all nipples so you have about 2 threads showing and then start tightening from there, apparently that's the easiest way to do it from what I have seen online.

Showing where? In the inner circumference of the rim? Or above the head of the nipple?

I'd say inner circumference.
You'd have to be an absolute idiot to start tensioning with two threads showing through the head....
flag xTheRoseRedx
Posted: Jan 9, 2017 at 12:02 Quote
Yes inner, so say I have wound the nipples all the way in, save for about two threads.
Then you go around and finger tighten all the spokes, once you have done that...
I half turn a nipple with the spoke key and see where it goes from there.
If anyone has a better technique I am all ears! Smile
flag omtimasprime
Posted: Jan 9, 2017 at 13:05 Quote
I usually use a speed winder, and wind the nipples down till the spoke kicks the speed winder off the nipple. So no threads are showing on the inner circumference, and go from there. The biggest thing to remember is its easy to get side to side bends out, but high and low flat spots not so much. So you want to make sure that wheel is round before it's straight if that makes sense.

 


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