IluvRIDING

Surely, that was his point!

OOPS, (Lux Trail CFR LTD vs Lux Trail CFR), add €1,500 to get almost half a kilo (one pound) extra weight, and a number of batteries you need to charge.

☑ No headset routing ☑ No batteries (aka cable actuated shifting and dropper post) ☑ Steel frame (is real) ☑ No carbon cranks ☑ Reasonable cost

Absolutley!!

Exactly my thoughts. It's much easier to go higher then lower regarding stack. You can go up with spacers, bars, stems. No prob. Lower it's almost impossible if you have a short stem and want negative rise bars.

We all know this test is absolute nonsense. Fine. But I would at least expect the video to be funny...

For B-tension I prefer to use the alignment marking on the back side of the derailleur cage (Shimano). It's very simple, you just align the line with the largest cog and done. Never have to think if you have too much or too little B-tension. I set it up like this the last couple of years and never ever had any issues.

One pedalstrike and you are done. Not sure if the risk-reward makes sense here.

Thanks for sharing your cocpit setups! However, I find stem lengths and bar rises combination slightly misleading and not exactly clear. For instance Seb Scott has a 40mm stem and 40mm bar rise, but he still has approx 20mm of uncut steerer tube available. He could also use a 50mm stem with ~15-20mm rise bars 20mm higher on the steerer to get the EXACT SAME handlebar location (given a ~64 HTA). Also 55mm stem, 5mm rise bars would be the same. It's quite simple geometry. Regarding handlebar position, the only two numbers that actually matter are "Effective Stem Length" (the real offset of your hands in relation to the steerer tube axis) https://www.pinkbike.com/news/exploring-the-relationship-between-handlebar-vs-stem-length.html and "effective stack" (handlebar height from the BB) https://www.pinkbike.com/news/importance-of-handlebar-height-mountain-bike.html. Additionally if necessary, the backsweep and and upsweep of the grips. The takeaway is that discussing stem length doesn't make much sense because it's the bar rise+sweep+stem length, that actually give you the effective stem length. And the same hand (grip) position may be achieved with multiple stem lenghts.

@briain: Please dont mix track racing and MTB. They have only one gear, so comparing makes no sense. Rather look at pro XC mtb racers. For instance even a small rider like Tom Pidcock at 170 cm tall (5ft 7″) rides 170mm cranks. There is quite a bit of bikefitting knowledge out there, and it's clear that for larger people longer cranks are more appropriate. That's a fact. I do understand why someone would ride with 165mm cranks on this L sized bike, however if you are not an outlier (very short legs) and you are 180-190cm tall, 170mm cranks will serve you better in terms of pedaling. So the manufacturer got this right.