Jakesmith32

Ah, yes, the only Montana Enduro Series race that gets a report and photos is the one in Wyoming. I'm starting to think that Helenduro and Enduro Pescado didn't even happen. Pics or it didn't as they say.

Hell of a lot of kids bikes still run a 27.2 seatpost (these Spawn bikes don't seem to have this specified on the specs page), and I was a bit disappointed upon the release of the new 27.2 OneUp dropper that it can't be shimmed and doesn't have adjustable air pressure. Still probably going to get one for myself, but don't know if I'd immediately recommend it to a parent looking to build their kid a baller bike with a 27.2 post. PNW Rainier Gen3 27.2 does have travel adjust, but not as short of total length as the oneup A desert race truck style limiting strap could be a pretty cool solution in the absence of travel reducing shims.

I've used a long travel Cane Creek Thudbuster on my commuter for quite some time and really really love it, but after getting used to that and trying out a PNW Suspension dropper I wasn't all that impressed. The CC linkage swings backward in a nice arc that is well matched to the seated body position, but a telescoping suspension seatpost can only travel in the same direction as the seat tube, which is down and slightly forward. Still a pretty great post from PNW nonetheless, but I'm not completely sold on that design of seatpost suspension, what I really wish existed is a linkage seatpost suspension mechanism that can be installed directly to the post rails rather than a complete seatpost.

@deeeight: Yes, simply reduce the OD of an aluminum tube by a precise amount with sandpaper. lol Probably wouldn't be super difficult on a hobby grade wood lathe with some careful setup and a keen eye, but this task really calls for the use of an actual metal lathe and some precision experience. I don't know what the wall thickness of the lower tube of an average dropper post actually is, but it could be pretty damn thin, and this part is often not sold as a replaceable component of the dropper assembly.

I've run an internal dropper on a couple of bikes without provisions for it and put hole into the seattube of a couple very trusting friend's bikes as well. My first mtb had a bottle cage mount on the ST and I just drilled and filed out the threads of the lower bolt hole at a downward angle to fit the cable housing, could even use the upper bolt hole and some electrical tape to mount a pump bracket still, there's a hole there anyway but sometimes if this is a rivnut it doesn't always like to cooperate when trying to file it out enough so that the cable doesn't get too kinked, just takes a bit of patience and some good small files. On another bike I drilled out a hole on the backside of the front derailleur brazeon where it attaches to the tube by a reinforcement plate. Its also totally doable by just making a completely new hole on the front side (or wherever depending on your aesthetic preferences and tool clearance) of the ST approximately 1"-2" above the BB welds, just need to make sure its a nice clean hole and be able to clean up the burrs on the inside of the tube well, either with a file or a deburring tool with a hooked blade, some sandpaper and a hooked rod or stiff wire, or ideally a flex hone brush and an extension to get all the way down there. You can either use a premade rubber internal routing grommet (requires the hole to be more precisely shaped), a couple layers of heat shrink at the proper location on the housing itself, or make a DIY grommet with some sugru and thinwall brass or aluminum tubing, I've found this at my local Ace hardware branded as K&S Metal Shapes, or can be found on McMaster-Carr as 260 formable brass tubing in 0.014" and .45mm wall thickness or telescoping corrosion resistant 3003 aluminum tubing in 0.014" wall thickness. 7/32" or 6mm OD in the aforementioned wall thicknesses will fit 4mm shift housing (or the 4.5mm OD Jagwire housing with the fancy braided colors too) and can be used either as a form for the sugru and removed fairly easily if you polish the tubing and with some oil to act as a mold release, or with some careful shaping of the ends of the tube it can be left in place glued into the ST hole as a more rigid housing guide. A guide tube could also be glued in place more rigidly with some JB weld or other good epoxy, or hell even solder it in place (on a steel frame), or go all out and learn to braze a reinforcement/guide tube in place on a steel frame.

@ACree: Update, they did get back to me and they can sell the aluminum head adapter as part of a custom order. They did mention that they no longer offer the 70AR/Travis from Rogue Hoe, and do not intend on making a copy of that shape, but a multi-headed shape may be in the works. I'm still a bit conflicted on if I will actually buy one due to the cost and I'm a little worried that I can't beat on it and easily replace like a wood handle, but the collapsibility is a really attractive feature for the ability to ride my bike to a worksite with it in a pack rather than having a heavy tool clumsily strapped to my bike or hike in with it in my hand.

@ACree: I actually just emailed them asking about it the other day, or if they would sell parts to modify my existing Travis head to use with the TB handles. But have yet to get a response.

The fact that Trail Boss doesn't offer the Travis is the main reason I haven't pulled the trigger on buying a kit. I'm not gonna spend $300+ on a collapsible tool if I can't use the tool head I like best, especially when they offer other Rogue Hoe heads.