bubba31147

I hate that excuse but having been on tires majority of the time since about last June I think there was a running change on them. The first ones were tight af getting on the rim, especially with cushcore, and measured like 2.31 or 2.32 at the widest, and 1 had a stubborn spot to bead. The last batch I got were easier to mount and seat on the same ex511 and measured 2.37 at the casing

I've been running these Goodyear MTR and MTF for well over a year now and I love the things. I weigh 225lb and race local pro/regional expert enduro in the rugged southwest US and I've never had an issue with these. And I think I'm on my 6th rear, 2nd front. 1500 miles this year so far on the MTR, plus about 6 months of riding them last year. 2 of my rear wheels have them right now. I think wear is slightly better than MaxxTerra. Sidewalls look prestine after hundreds of miles instead of shredded canvas like on my old doubledowns. So far they have been some of the most trued tires I've ever owned. And for how heavy the tire is, 1270g last one I weighed, it rolls oddly fast for now aggressive it looks. Faster than my Conti Xynotal DH Soft. Hard packed drought scorched AZ desert and I have no problems with drag running a MTR enduro rear and MTF trail front. The front tire is pretty decent. Even after putting about 1000 miles between a MTF Enduro and Trail I can't really find much it does better in one particular area compared to the other big brands, it just kinda works. Not the grippiest tread or even compound. The wide spaced sideknobs work despite what armchair experts would claim. It's just not the grippiest front tire out there. If I want maximum front grip for a steep venue I'll just put a doubledown maxxgrip Assegai up front. But they suck to pedal. Putting the MTF Trail on after a race weekend felt like I had a tailwind on the canals and gravel I pedal to the trails

I run cushcore with doubledown tires front and rear. They get easier with every install. Now if I'm motivated and on a roll I've gotten a tire on in about 5 minutes. That's without the buttplug lever I wasted my money on. I will say some rims are better than others. My DT EX and XM 30mm internal rims are easy straightforward, WeAre1 are tight, and asymmetric rims such as Ibis will have you saying every profanity you know. The offset side of the rim bed won't let the tire bead drop in far enough to give slack on the opposite side of the tire As for uninstall, my tip for cushcore is to deflate the tire as much as possible and then close the valve core. The vacuum inside gives room for the tire bead to drop in

Getting them ready to survive through nasty terrain adds a fair amount of weight pretty quick. I'm 215lb and race expert in a rocky part of the country. My large Ripmo with Float X2 shock, X01, DD Agressor rear, EXO+ Assegai front, DT EX511 rims, Cushcore front+rear, Saint brakes+203 rotors, chainguide, Renthal Fatbar carbon, OneUp EDC tool, spare tube, plus flat pedals weighs around 32.8lb. I used to have it down around the 30lb range but I value performance and durability more than weight savings. I recently added Cushcore because I'm destroying about 4 rims a year from rock strikes with 26/24psi. Any more pressure I was deflecting off everything in sight and couldn't hold a line. With cushcores I'm running 25/20 and love them. Took me a total of 1 ride to get used to the extra weight

I noticed my 2.5 aggressor on my ripmo picks up a lot of fun stuff to suck though the chainstays. Theres a lot of clearence but still makes a ruckus when rocks get pulled through. This weekend at the Santa Fe BME i crunched a couple pine cones through the swingarm too. Ive only noticed it at low speeds. Besides that their awesome in dry and hardpack

Im 6'1 with a 33-34 inseam and i like the large. The XL would be way to long for me. When i had mine on order i was looking into 35-40mm stems but once i rode it i havent thought twice about the short stem. My NX build came with the Ibis 50mm stem and i upgraded to the 20mm rise Ibis bar thats cut down to 792mm.

@m1dg3t: I despise pedal bushings too but i think pedals are a completely different application though. Consecutive thousands of full 360 degree rotations vs. ~10 degrees of rotation

I did a orbea shop demo in Sedona a few months ago. I have my go to 18 mile loop around the whole Hogs/Hiline area and i was not really WOWed. I tell people the orbea just felt like a 150mm cross country bike. Going to standing on punchy stuff the rear end honestly felt like a hardtail. Some people like that, my climbs are way to technical for that. I felt like i couldn't get the rear to soak the chatter up unless it was 35-40% sag. It deflected off stuff more than my Ripmo did when i rode that same loop 2 weeks ago. And ive settled for aprox 28-30% sag on the Ibis. It may have just been a shock tune issue with the orbea but i did play with shock pressure with my electronic shock pump to get it as good as i could get it on a short ride. Both bikes had the exact same offset Fox 36 Grip fork, similar wheelbase, same chainstay length, and they both cornered great but i think the Ripmo tracked slightly better through chunk for me. Like the rallon felt a little twitchy when making adjustments mid turn Neither bike felt to long either, and that's saying something because I'm coming off of a 2013 rocky mountain with a close to 430 reach on a large. The Orbea and the Ibis honestly felt about the same seated. The Ripmo is slightly longer when standing which helps descending. The orbea was the first time i ever encountered a seat tube so short there were comparability issues with seatpost and my longish 765mm seat rail height. That was until i bought the Ripmo. On the large Rallon i had the stock Aeffect post to the max line. On the Ripmo, the stock 150mm KS wouldn't fit. My Bike Yoke 160mm would not fit, for some stupid reason bike yoke says the 185 wouldn't fit either, for $80 extra the 175mm KS would barely clear. So my options were slim. Instead of spending $450 on a 9point8 long travel i got a fox transfer 150mm that cleared by less than an inch. If your a shorter build you'll appreciate the low seat tube though

The finish on my blue Ripmo is stunning in the sunlight. I didn't notice one thing out of the box. It looked better than the finish on the Red/Black Rallon I rode. After hammering some hard miles in the AZ kitty litter there is 1 bad part of the frame finish. When the frame gets to bottom out position and that dam 2.5 aggressor is packed with rock it destroyed the finish off of the back of top link mount. Hard to explain it but the top frame mount on the seat tube. I actually just read a review of the Pivot Firebird on Enduro-mtb and she had the exact same issue on that DW link bike

My race ready build is currently under $4700. I glanced at the $7200 build and iwas surprised to see if my bike an Eagle drivetrain and a fork upgrade its the exact same build. That's just alittle higher than YT pricing and instead of a 5/2 year warranty the Ibis guys take care of you for 7 years. And frame quality is amazing