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Ben Deakin - Short
Quick video getting used to my new camera.
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Video info
- Date Posted
- Jan 25, 2012 at 16:25Jan 25, 2012
- Category
- All Mountain/Enduro/DH
- Location
-
Exeter, United Kingdom
16 Comments
- + 1
Ok cool. I'll go and set them up. What will they consist of? White balance?...
Yeah, I'm going to speed it up, I only noticed I could do it last night so I'm gonna do that for sure.
Another thing... The autofocus is really good, but it seems to lose focus at a focal point in the zoom. So like if the rider is coming towards me, when he gets to a certain distance away it sorta goes out of focus, then back in again once he's ridden past a certain point. I've noticed it in quite a few of the shots in this video. Know why?
Yeah, I'm going to speed it up, I only noticed I could do it last night so I'm gonna do that for sure.
Another thing... The autofocus is really good, but it seems to lose focus at a focal point in the zoom. So like if the rider is coming towards me, when he gets to a certain distance away it sorta goes out of focus, then back in again once he's ridden past a certain point. I've noticed it in quite a few of the shots in this video. Know why?
- + 1
Contrast, on panasonic cameras it's called Master Ped, I don't know what it is on a Sony, but Sony gives you a LOT more options, Panasonics are just punch and go on the fly. That is also why I suggested taking time on the side to really dial in the personal color profiles for certain situations, such as a low-constrast day like a cloudy day.
Color, that is a personal preference. You will have to make the decision as to whether you want a warm or a cool look. There is setting custom WB, then theres a WB *shift*. Any WB setting you've set, you can always shift it to be just slightly cooler or warmer. A perfect example: WB'ing on white paper with the SUN on a BRIGHT day, will give you good whites, but your shadows will be just a tad blue-ish. This is where you use the WB-shift, to shift it to be a tad warmer, just a tad. If you WB in the shadows, you will have a super warm looking footage. Shadows are just cooler in temperature.
Color, that is a personal preference. You will have to make the decision as to whether you want a warm or a cool look. There is setting custom WB, then theres a WB *shift*. Any WB setting you've set, you can always shift it to be just slightly cooler or warmer. A perfect example: WB'ing on white paper with the SUN on a BRIGHT day, will give you good whites, but your shadows will be just a tad blue-ish. This is where you use the WB-shift, to shift it to be a tad warmer, just a tad. If you WB in the shadows, you will have a super warm looking footage. Shadows are just cooler in temperature.
- + 1
^^^ that's just WB. You've got actual tones you can punch into the camera. Such as a mustard sodium yellow or a fluorescent green tone, you can do it all in-camera. Tones are best achieved when in-camera chroma level is turned down, but like I said everything is a personal preference and what you are going for.
Sorry I'm a color whore when it comes to doing things in-camera. Very hard to let out all my knowledge in a small comment box. You've got a super powerful camera that will give you looks that no post production can replicate. There is a unique feel to footage that has been done in-camera, because it doesn't look fake!
Test zooming in on a telephone pole, then test zooming on a passing car. Both on Manual and Auto focus. Theres also different framing settings for ways to analyze what to focus on. That's the only thing I can suggest when it comes to understanding how focus works on the camera. If it's driving you crazy, try closing down the iris (higher f/stop) by removing your ND filters so you will have deep DOF (for times you just can't worry about focus). My camera's focus is so deep it almost doesn't matter, 1/4" sensor. My camera sort of has what yours has, except it comes and goes. That is called an ISSUE, a back focus issue because I have a super cheep camera. Sometimes it shows up, sometimes not. Chances are it's just how the lens was designed and there might not be a way around it. But it's an EX1 so... don't know what to say there.
Sorry I'm a color whore when it comes to doing things in-camera. Very hard to let out all my knowledge in a small comment box. You've got a super powerful camera that will give you looks that no post production can replicate. There is a unique feel to footage that has been done in-camera, because it doesn't look fake!
Test zooming in on a telephone pole, then test zooming on a passing car. Both on Manual and Auto focus. Theres also different framing settings for ways to analyze what to focus on. That's the only thing I can suggest when it comes to understanding how focus works on the camera. If it's driving you crazy, try closing down the iris (higher f/stop) by removing your ND filters so you will have deep DOF (for times you just can't worry about focus). My camera's focus is so deep it almost doesn't matter, 1/4" sensor. My camera sort of has what yours has, except it comes and goes. That is called an ISSUE, a back focus issue because I have a super cheep camera. Sometimes it shows up, sometimes not. Chances are it's just how the lens was designed and there might not be a way around it. But it's an EX1 so... don't know what to say there.
- + 1
I dunno bro, can't seem to get a good export setting. Just uploading like 10 different ones to vimeo. Ha
Because you have a camera that has such high dynamic range, it just won't compare to a DSLR on a cloudy day because a DSLR will of course 'look better', because the blacks and whites are in a smaller range than the EX1.
I also suspect you were a bit under exposed, and noticed you are on auto iris based on the first shot.
It's a bummer that the mechanical zooming is not as fast as your previous sony cam but at least you can turn it on and off.