Adjustable height posts are quickly gaining popularity, and for good reason. While expensive, they allow you to actually buy speed and control, which is something that can't be said of a lot of other so-called upgrades.
Specialized entered the dropping seat post game last season with their well received
Command Post. With its unique mechanical design it brings something different to the table, but how good does it work?
Read on...Height adjustable seat posts are quickly becoming the norm for a lot of riders who don't want to dismount when the going gets tough. Whether said riders are stopping to lower their seats via quick releases, or not risking trying to roll through whatever obstacles that are in front of them, both can and should be enjoying the benefits of height adjustable posts. While exponentially more expensive than a standard QR, an adjustable post obviously has many advantages and can simply add more flow to your ride. As well as being safer than tackling the challenging bits with your standard post at full extension. After a few years of running different models, I am of the belief that nearly every rider can benefit from installing an adjustable post on their AM, and even dedicated XC bikes.
The DetailsAdjustable posts can be found in two varieties: hydraulic; which uses oil to hold it at a given height, or a mechanical system that uses a pin or collet to keep it in place.
Specialized's Command Post uses a mechanical system combined with an adjustable air spring to raise it back up. The Command Post is also only available for use with the remote, whether you want it or not. The inner workings of the Command Post are quite a bit different than what you might expect to see. Besides being operated via a cable remote on the handle bar, there is also an internal cable within the post that releases tension on the
collet enabling the post to change position. Pushing the remote lever on your handle bar pulls on the cable, which in turn pulls the activation arm under the seat, thereby pulling the internal cable and releasing tension on the collet, freeing it to move to the next position. There are three 'slots' that the collet will fit in, each one obviously corresponding to one of the Command Post's height positions.
Whew! Got all that? Inside the Specialized Command Post
While all of the above looks and sounds quite complicated, it is actually pretty simple in practice and has some advantages over simpler designs. The biggest plus to the Specialized's collet design is a complete lack of play in the post's head. Even at the saddle I can only feel the slightest wiggle, I'm talking about less than 2 mm of free movement at the nose of the seat, very impressive. How can they manage that, yet still have the post move freely when need be? It's down to two reasons: a double keyway design with tight tolerance factors in, as well as the collet itself. Think of the collet as a brake or even a clutch. When the cable tension is released the collet expands into its slot at one of the three positions, and provides outward pressure, helping the post to be free of any slop.
The Command Post's head uses a single bolt for both fore/aft adjustment of the seat rails, as well as seat angle. Because one side of the opposing bolt is keyed, all that is needed is a single 5 mm Allen key to make either adjustment.
One important note: be sure to grease the threads on the seat rail clamp bolt to make it easier to attain proper torque to avoid any slipping of the clamp. The remote cable is attached to the actuation arm via a 3 mm Allen screw and cable tension is easily adjusted with a barrel adjuster right on the post.
The remote is a slick looking unit that uses a hinged clamp to attach itself to the bars for easy installation or removal. The Command Post comes with a lever that is intended to be used on the left hand side of the bars, although a right side unit is also available. The remote is quite compact and takes up very little room on the bars. Specialized made the choice to use a proprietary cable for the remote, something that potential users should take note of. The cable uses a unique barrel shaped head that allows it to pivot freely in the lever without kinking or binding. A standard brake or shift cable will not work without being modified, which users have been doing. Your local Specialized shop that sold you your Command Post will also be able to hook you up with replacement cables.
• 4" (100 mm) of height adjustment
• Remote lever only - both left and right hand versions available
• available in 31.6 mm (400 mm long) and 30.9 mm (380 mm)
• 3 height positions - full extension, 100 mm drop (slammed), and a 35 mm cruiser position
• 520 grams (post only)
Command Post at full extension
In UseIf you have not had the chance to have a go on an adjustable post you owe it to yourself to give one a try. I have no hesitation in saying that adjustable height posts in general have had a massive impact on how I ride. I'm not exaggerating when I tell you that I'd put them in the same category as suspension and disc brakes, they bring that much to the table. My previous adj. post was a hydraulic/air unit as opposed to the Command Post's mechanical collet design. Of the two, the Specialized post has demonstrated itself to be more reliable and had fewer troubles, although it was certainly not trouble free.
Full extension, dropped 35 mm cruiser position, slammed 100 mm dropThe Command Post proved to be both a useful and reliable addition to my ride. Installation was quite easy and the post does come with good instructions. Double check the post's air pressure before installing, mine was a bit low upon arrival, but hasn't needed any refilling over its two months of use. The single bolt seat rail clamp is simple to work with and it's painless to adjust the angle and fore/aft position separately. I would have liked to see easier access to the cable anchor bolt underneath the seat, something that could have been accomplished by rotating the cable clamp 90 degrees on the actuation arm. Users would then be able to reach the 3 mm Allen bolt from the side without having to rotate the seat up to reach it. Another qualm I have is the lack of any real channel for the cable to fit in under the bolt head, as it's quite easy to damage the cable while tightening the anchor bolt. Regardless, it only took a few minutes to get the Command Post up and running smoothly.
The Command Post has four inches of total drop available for use, something I was thankful for nearly every ride. I am of the opinion that if I am going to take the weight penalty for an adjustable post it may as well have as much travel as possible. The Specialized post has one extra inch of travel over my last adjustable post and I never would have guessed that it would have made so much of a difference. I would have liked to see 5" of movement, but 4" was more than sufficient in most situations. Hit the remote lever and weight the seat to lower it to either the cruiser or full drop positions. It took about 20 minutes of practice before I was able to hit the 35 mm drop cruiser position every time. Once I got the hang of setting the seat to the cruiser position it ended up being very useful. I found myself using this on most technical climbs as it added a degree of stability and confidence that helped me clean some inclines that had been troubling me. Just as I discovered with my first experience with adj. posts in the past, the cruiser position is also great for fast non-technical trails as your center of gravity is just that much lower. It has shown to be valuable in many places where I never expected to use it.
The Command Post's remote could be better
For how well the post itself functioned in the field, the handlebar remote is not quite up to par. While I certainly appreciate its slim and room sparing design, I just could not find a suitable position on my bars that worked well for me. Time was taken to try out every conceivable position: between the grip and shifter, the inside of both the shifter and brake, as well as all angles and even upside down. It just didn't mesh well with my SRAM and Avid controls. I would have liked to have it flush against my Elixir's bar clamp but the shifter body was not having any of that. In the end I was forced to move it inboard a touch which makes for quite the reach, enough that I can't be pulling the front brake if I want to drop my seat. Keep in mind that everyone's bars will be setup differently, just because I had some troubles finding the optimal spot doesn't mean you will.
I can forgive Specialized for their remote not playing nice with my controls, as every riders bar's will have a different layout. But, the quality of the remote lever is also a let down. Over only two months of use the lever pivot has developed enough slop to actually hinder pulling the cable. When it's depressed it shifts quite a bit at the hinge, which gives it a very sloppy and vague feel. Because the Command Post is very sensitive to cable tension, I found myself constantly playing with the barrel adjuster to try and take up slack found at the lever pivot. The lever's pivot is a simple pin that is pushed through instead of threaded. A small diameter threaded bolt would have been nicer, and possibly enabled me to take up any play that developed in the lever over time. Also, the lever's return spring proved useless quickly as it lost all of its tension. As with many adjustable posts, I have seen riders use remote levers from other companies that they have been more comfortable with. When doing this it is important to have a compatible amount of cable pull for things to work correctly.
Other Notes...• The post's single bolt head was both creak and slip free during the entire test.
• Take note of how much or your standard post is exposed at full height. I have long legs and the Command Post had to be at max height to work for me on my medium sized bike.
• To this day there is close to zero slop, even at the nose of the seat. Impressive.
• The Command Post does not like the cold weather. Movement slowed down considerably as temps dropped, something that can be remedied by using a lighter lube in the post as opposed to the stock heavier grease. Cold weather regulars take note.
• The mechanical collet design means that the Command Post is very sensitive to cable tension. Too little, either nothing will happen or you'll be forced to bump the seat with your ass to get it moving, too much and you'll feel a slight knocking as the collet shifts slightly within the post. A 1/4 to 1/2 a turn on the barrel adjuster is all that's needed when you get close. As mentioned above, this was aggravated by the shifty remote.
• A 5" drop model is in the works that should appeal to even more riders. Weight should be in the same ballpark so why not get an extra inch to play with.
After two months of solid use I came away with a good impression of the Command Post. The post itself proved to function perfectly, as well as being more reliable than finicky hydraulic based designs that depend a lot on oil seals. No creaking, slipping, or air loss was experienced during the entire time it was under me. That is something that can only be said about a few players in the still new adjustable post market. I was happy enough with how the post functioned that I can look past its weak link, the second-rate remote lever, or come up with my own solution. The adjustable height post market will only continue to grow as more and more riders discover the advantages to running one on their bikes. I suspect that I will start to see more and more Command Posts underneath riders as that happens.
Visit
Specialized.com to see their entire range of bikes, components, and clothing.
Mike Levy
but no sale - he insisted on the Command Post - at GBP£249.99 it was not cheap (about £60 more than the Gravity Dropper Remote)
within 2 wet rides, his post had seized and had to go back to Specialized under warranty
something we noticed about the command post is that the quality of the remote lever and specifically the activation lever clamp on the post are both very poorly designed / finished (like a £25 seatpost)and not worth the £250 asking price!
stick with Gravity Dropper - a much more proven product
What's been a huge turn off from other hydraulic models is:
1. Size. If you're running an older Turner or some other brands you're going to be hard pressed to find a hydraulic model that will fit your 27.2 seat tube.
2. I can tear my Gravity Dropper down completely with a simple set of allen wrenches.
3. The cables are static and attached to the lowers of the seatpost, so they're not moving up and down with the saddle and hanging off the side of the bike like the other brands-that looks really cheap IMO.
If a company is going to ask a customer to dish out $250+ for a seatpost, they need to think out the aesthetics of their product a bit more. I do think the Joplin, etc... look cleaner and nicer. But that long cable dangling off the side of the bike is just an accident waiting to happen. Get that caught on your shoe as you're going down and you're riding home without a seatpost that works and hydraulic fluid all over the place.
Like hampsteadbandit mentioned with his customer, a good friend of mine who will only buy Specialized experienced the same problem with his. After one ride, the thing wouldn't work. A simple coil, derailleur cable and 3 magnets and my Gravity Dropper have been going strong for years-and I weigh about 215 lbs with gear on.
Spend the money on a Gravity Dropper. Strong, reliable, and able to be rebuilt. I actually think the aesthetics of the GD Turbo is pretty good, especially if you use a v-brake noodle to route the cable out of the post. Yes, the bar mounted control unit could use some updating, but overall, it is not that bad. The only problem I have witnessed is making sure to get the seat collar tight enough to keep the post from falling since these posts require a shim for larger diameter seat tubes.
Whatever the case, adjustable height seatposts are easily one of the best investments you can add to your bike. These are not really a necessity for freeride bikes, but 6" travel and under bikes are prime candidates, even race bikes, the amount of control gained on descents makes up for the small increase in weight. Just make sure you make the right choice in company or you may be waiting for it to get back from warranty, and nobody wants that.
Good point on the housing ending at the posts head and moving up and down as the post is cycled, I forgot to mention that in the review. More and more bikes are starting to come with routing for adj. posts, including the Enduro that I used the Command Post on. This helps a lot but you still have to be aware of how much slack you have and where it is going to end up.
Krcrap,
I also reviewed the Joplin last season and during the entire time I had it it didn't leak once. Unfortunately the Joplin that I bought for personal use many months later was not so lucky and suffered from some oil loss. It was warranty work which was done quick, but still a bummer. When working correctly the Joplin will not squat/compress at all under your body weight. The Specialized Command Post does not use oil to hold it in place, its a collet, and also will not compress at all under your weight.
After being on GD since around 2005 this season I needed a post with rear offset. After breaking a GD I decided it was a necessity with my current frame. I tried out the Joplin, used a Maverick for a while, and stumbled onto a Command Post. IME it is superior to the Joplin design, but has more quirks than a GD. As with all dropper posts there are compromises.
My original sealhead blew out (specialized has redesigned it now). With this mechanical locking mech I was able to raise my post by hand and finish my ride. Specialized warrantied the blown parts and upgraded me to the new seal despite me not being the original owner. As noted the collet is a bit sensitive to cable tension, but once set correctly is not an issue.
I've seen a number of different solutions to the remote lever issue, the Joplin remote being the most common. Is there excessive lever throw w/ the Joplin remote when used with the Command Post, or does everything work out fine?
One of the more interesting bits of work I've seen was a rider that modified his left/front Sram shifter to work his adj. post (I don't think it was a CP, although I can't quite remember). I'm guessing that he either entirely removed a gear wheel within the shifter or maybe just ground down the teeth so that it removed the indexing. Then all you need to do is push the thumb lever to pull the cable and drop or raise your post. You could even remove the cable release lever altogether. Of course this will only work on a bike that doesn't use a front der.
Specialized did recommend the cold weather lube build, I think you may be able to find the tech doc. on their site somewhere. Some extra air certainly helps as well. Good point on being able to manually raise your seat to the correct height even though the post had failed, one thing you cannot do w/ hydraulic designs.
...BUT, for riders who like to go VERY quick on technical terrain - climbing UP and going DOWN, or who don't want to stop as it ruins their "flow" whilst riding, or are racing Enduro / Super D / Mega Avalanche type events, these adjustable seatposts are a fantastic investment
from speaking first hand to experienced riders at the Mega / Maxi Avalanche events, and the recent Interbike Dirt Demo days in Las Vegas, the Gravity Dropper posts were the ONLY reliable choice; as riders with Command posts, Joplins, etc. all had major problems relating to dust, water and mud affecting their seatposts
Now let the negative props rain down upon me!
Let me tell you about the ride that I just got back from... It starts w/ a good hour long climb up a fire road, obviously no need to be dropping my seat at any time. Once at the top it is entirely singletrack for about an hour as you descend back to the trailhead. But it's not all descending. The trail continually jumps back up in elevation as you make your way back down; some of the climbs are short, just 5-10 seconds, and some are longer, 2-5 minutes. But all of them are steep little pitches that require me to sit on the nose of the seat and put the power down. It's too rooty, and today wet, to stand up on them as I would just spin out. The trails downhill sections are amazing! Crossed with roots and rocks everywhere, and a lot of it is quite steep. Mountain biking at its best. I want to shred those DH portions, especially because I'm on a slack 6" travel bike and I'm a DH'er at heart, but I can't climb those short pitches with my seat slammed. Today I used my telescoping post at least 20 times, maybe even more. If I hadn't of had it on my bike I would have had to walk at least half of those short climbs, I'm not interested in mucking about with my seatpost QR every few minutes. I want to flow the entire trail, top to bottom, without stopping.
That is actually the ride I did today. I'm not arguing for the Command Post in particular, but any adjustable post. Obviously if you don't ride trails like that then it is of no use to you but they certainly have a place on a lot of riders bikes. A lot of riders are old enough (I'm not!) to remember when people argued against using suspension, too heavy and too complex they said. In the end suspension makes riding easier and more enjoyable. Just like an adjustable post could for some riders.
I used to be a specialized retailer working in my local bike store. during this time i have sold a number of command posts and have seen an almost equal number being sent back to the UK supplier for specialized.
i bought my post in late 2009 at the start of winter. did int really use it till the following spring when on the second ride i notice it wouldn't go into the lower position easily. managed with applied force to get it to lower only for it to return to full extension, beasting me in the balls when going over rough ground. the air pressure had all but go when i got home and reassessed what had gone wrong. the next ride the post wouldn't drop at all, half way round my trail center.
i returned it to my place of work who sent it to specialized UK. they informed me that i must have been landing on it too hard and i had misused it so the 2 year warranty was invalidated! i had not be using it in this manner; having ridden only xc trails, and can only assume it broke when i was trying to get it to go down. in the end i had to pay £55 to them to get it fixed after riding it only twice and shelling out £250 for this. really unimpressed with specialized and wouldn't have ever thought i would say that being an ex-seller of there bike etc. Def would not recommend these. the post works now to an extent, but still leaks air and is temperamental when trying to get it to stay down. This is not an isolated case from other reviews i have read on the net and those posts i previously had returned on behalf of other customers. DON'T BUY THIS POST! get a gravity dropper instead or the new rock shox re-verb post.
As a user, I've got to say this review is very accurate.
Great review Mike!
Thanks for the props! After a few years of being a non-believer I also gave adj. post a try last season... I can't imagine ever not using one while on my 6" pedal bike.
i dunno , this is from a freeriders perspective. i guess it would be handy for enduro
I've been lucky to not have a Gravity Dropper break on me, but I have had two QR seat collar bolts break in years past. That's not saying that GD's are indestructable. Like any component, if you don't take care of it you'll run into problems.
For $15 plus return shipping I send both of mine back to Gravity Dropper once a year over winter. They completely clean it and upgrade anything they've changed since the previous year, swap out the cables/housing with a new set and send it back ready to ride.
do you know what exponential actually means?
haha downrate this it wasnt an offensive comment