e13 by the Hive - First Look and Overview

May 28, 2010 at 8:39
May 28, 2010
by Jordan Holmes  
 
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e.13 has recently been purchased by The Hive, a newer company that has a number of brands under it. Brands like Revel, Chub hubs, and now e13. There has been some images of the cranks floating around the internet, however here is the first video explaining the new crank arms, and technologies.

Check out more info inside...

There has been some random images of the new e.13 cranks floating around the internet. After doing some research and figuring out exactly what's going on, here is a product feature video with Chris Costello on the new e.13 cranks, along with some information on the availability, and technologies that have gone into them.

Views: 4,900    Faves: 8    Comments: 2

Details about the new DH crank are as follows:



- Forged and then machined 7050 Aluminum arms.
- 7050 is 40% stronger than most common hollow forged alloys.


- 30mm heat-treated cromoly spindle.
- It is 200%+ stiffer than 24mm steel spindles commonly used in external bearing cranksets.
- German DIN 32711-P3 Polygon interface provides 100% surface contact between spindle and crankarm
- Eliminates fretting corrosion – the prime cause of dreaded crankset creaking and loosening.


- 14mm pedal thread engagement + 7050 arm construction + quality pedal washers.
- Eliminates the need for costly and unreliable pedal thread inserts.

- High quality titanium-nickel hybrid spindle coating.
- Increases durability and extends material life (to just about forever). Tell your machinist friends. They might hug you.
- Standard 104 BCD


Lengths:
- 165mm, 170mm and 175mm lengths.

BB
- Larger BB 6806 (7×30x42)Bearings carry 20% greater static load and dramatically increase BB durability.
- 68/73mm and 83mm BB shell versions.
- New: 24-38 Shift ringset option available.
- For you core freeriders who like to earn your downhill.
- Inner ring bolts to outer ring requiring no inner ring tabs on crank.

Weight: 870g: Crank weight: 759g (165mm x 83mm) / BB weight 111g.
MSRP: $349 w/BB and BB install tool.

Ring Configurations

- e*thirteen guide rings: 32-40T in one tooth increments. Available in black, silver, blue, red, green, and purple. 36-72 grams.


- 24-38 shiftrings: 9 & 10speed compatible. The 24T chainring bolts directly to the 38T chainring to optimize tooth location and provide the greatest amount of modularity and compatibility seen in a heavy duty All Mountain / race weight DH crankset. No grinding of granny tabs and eliminating front shifting options. 138 grams.
- 22-36 shift rings: same as above, slightly lower gearing for our comrades in steeper locales. 130 grams.

Release Date: Global availability by the end of July 2010.

More information here.
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82 Comments

  • + 20
 In over a decade of shop time I have seen more steel pedal inserts ripped out or damaged than I have seen damaged pedal threads on cranks using 7000 series aluminum without a steel pedal insert. Just my experience, I personally wouldn't ever worry about there being a lack of pedal inserts on the new e.13 cranks.
  • + 14
 The amount of hype e13 products create is unreal.

They are non-hollow forged cranks with a non-replacable pedal interface that are heavier than the already insanely durable and stiff Saint, use a model specific bottom bracket (that though the bearing is bigger so is the spindle so likely the balls are the same anyway!)and inner ring.
What am i missing?

I think this is likely the result of a business decision, the Hive dont have brand image in comparison to the big players, so why not merge with E13 pool resources in all aspects and to signify the union create a product = the DH crank is born & ties the two brands together.

I
  • + 7
 Nice cranks, but not really lighter than what's out there already:

e-13 crank weight 870g: Crank weight: 759g (165mm x 83mm) / BB weight 111g

atlas fr crank weight 835g: Crank weight: 715g (165mm x 83mm) / BB weight 120g

saint crank weight 862g: Crank Weight: 762g (170mm x 83mm) / BB weight 100g

Also, the lack of pedal thread isn't an issue because they're using 7050 alloy. Atlas use a slightly higher strength alloy than 7050 (optimAL) in their cranks and I haven't heard of anyone ripping peadal out of those yet. Pedals mostly get ripped out of 6000 series alloy
  • + 7
 They look alright. I dont know what all the fuss is about........wait, I do, its because they say e.13 on them, and its exactly why The Hive bought this name.......it sells. I would have to try them out. Im not buying cranks because they have e.13 stamped on 'em.
  • + 8
 Another pattern for the bottom bracket?
  • + 10
 Yeah, it looks like. :-(
  • + 1
 yeah, a better one!
  • + 2
 yeah true- it says bigger bearings which is always good. but tbh, I dont understand why the mtb are still using tiny euro bb, when we could adapt the usa bmx style bb, which is HUGE. Imagine the bearings you could put in them badboys *drool*
  • + 4
 They lost me there, plus with the NO-PEDAL-INSERT. What a fuckin dumb idea, now we are gonna lose that small ring in like 5 secs.
  • + 5
 no pedal insert makes no sense at all. they claim they're expensive- not as expensive as a whole new crankset when your strip the pedal thread.
  • + 4
 I don't think people are having trouble with their holzfellers... they don't have inserts, but these are not holzhellers so who knows if they'll be a problem or not.
  • + 6
 I know my atlas FR insert-less cranks are doing great....
  • - 3
 The new holzfellers die. my freind ripped his threads out in two days
  • + 0
 i got stylo crank on my am, never got any probleme with the no insert
  • + 6
 TBH if you strip the pedal thread you either over tightened it, haven't tightened it enough or just never check that ur pedals are on! Plus using steel washers help stripping become non existent!
  • + 1
 FSA arms that are 6 years old and no pedal inserts and they are holding fine.
  • + 1
 Damn, that is going to sell better than SAINT cranks!!
Pedal inserts? - for sure an issue with Shimano cranks.
Apparently SRAM is holding well...also Race Face with their Atlas cranks is bloody strong even without the inserts...but personally, like the other guys here, I'd rather see the steel inserts on these for a piece of mind.
  • + 0
 I'd rather see the steel inserts on these for a piece of mind.
Exactly. They are DH cranks. AT LEAST they should think about a pedal insert. not saying it`s UBER necessary. Just something nice to have, and losing that damn steel washer is certainly something I hate.
  • + 0
 g'dam, your crank threads don't just strip over time due to wear and tear, they'll strip in a crash when the pedal comes under impact and rips the alloy threads out... something a washer doesn't prevent at all, the washer just stops the top of the threaded hole getting mashed up by the pedal spindle when tightening it. Not having threaded inserts is all very fine until you smash your pedal on something when laying the bike down, then you notice the difference... an expensive one at that!
  • + 2
 good point ctd07. Its the crashes that always eff pedals up. It's ISIS splines that get screwed up from riding (loosening crank arms). but unfortunately, if a crash has enough force to rip a pedal out, it probably would rip an insert out also, or at least weaken it enough to rip it out on another fall.
  • + 1
 yeh, its pretty sad to see all these groms saying "my cranks are fine".... of course they are.... until they break - and then they'll reckon they're complete crap, but its too late by then, flash advertising and fancy graphics already sold the product. Being trained as a machinist and general [mechanical] engineer and working as a mechanic I personally hate to see aluminium threads of any sort in hi-load areas, I understand why it happens, but IMO aluminium alloy should not be threaded, its just not up to the task and strips too easily.
  • + 1
 tis the reason I no longer run aluminum cranks Smile

Honestly, the additional weight of 4130 cranks is much worth the strength IMO... but hey, most people are so caught up with weight savings they don't ever think of them as a possibility. Absolute shame also. I saw my buddies raceface arm snap and go in his calf and that was enuf to completely put me off anything close to aluminum cranks. (it's about the same time that I destroyed my profile race arms and upped to profile dj arms).


I wonder why companies aren't using more carbon technology in their aluminum cranks. Forge right over a carbon inner shell with aluminum pedal inserts mounted in the carbon... then forging right over both and machining. Would be a whole lot stronger than threading metal inserts into an aluminum arm. No reason you couldn't pre coat the carbon in high temp epoxy to handle the forge process.

Hmmm maybe something we will see in the future?
  • + 8
 bolt it on a bike already..
  • + 8
 ...another bb tool
  • + 8
 looks sick
  • + 4
 Meh. MRP Cambers are lighter, also have the 24mm chromoly spindle, come in black or white, have pedal inserts, and the bb is serviceable the same way. Oh, and they are $100+ cheaper!
  • + 4
 Man, I didnt even know about those Cambers........they look good. Good look bikinbeast.
  • + 12
 Wait.........you are sponsored by MRP arent you? Sneaky, too many of you guys on here touting your sponsors products, still look pretty good for the money, but dont come on here saying "meh" to cranks just to ADVERTISE your sponsor !!
  • + 0
 Facts are facts...
  • + 6
 Touche... They look like a pretty good deal for the money.
  • + 7
 e13 cranks have a 30mm cromly spindle
  • + 10
 e13 looks thousands time better imo.
  • + 11
 Too bad Cambers are just MRP-branded Taiwan off-the-shelf cranks. I think I'll stick to locally designed products that I can get behind.
  • + 13
 saints > *
  • + 3
 @seraph, spot on mate!
  • + 4
 - 30mm heat-treated cromoly spindle.
- It is 200%+ stiffer than 24mm steel spindles commonly used in external bearing cranksets.
  • + 1
 ya ill be hard pressed to replace my saints. never had any trouble with my old m800 set or my new m810 they're great!
  • + 1
 Although I managed to reck my Saint cranks (badly bent and cracked the spider) I still think they are the best, however because I couldn't have them warrantied I want to try Atlas FRs, I've heard that they warranty is better and strenght and weight wise they are on the same level
  • + 1
 wow you have to be kiding me not 2 hours after i made that comment i somehow stripped the spider and now the crankarm wont stay on this blows!!!!
  • + 2
 ok im sure ill get neg-proped for this and i know this isnt a forum but does any body know why in the hell if i tighten down the two bolts as tight as i can the crank arm still has play in it and i am able to pull it off the spindle? it looks as if the spindle has burrs on it but not enough to make a difference?
  • + 1
 It sounds like your spindle is stripped of the splines. Without the splines, the left crank arm won't tighten down on the spindle.
  • + 3
 The cranks look sick and really really well designed, but is the 200% extra stiffness and strength really needed? I don't think I've ever heard of people complaining they're saints aren't strong enough, or stiff enough. I know I certainly haven't. Larger bearings are a plus, but I haven't been through a BB in a while... just another standard, and another tool needed to be bought. I'm still drawn to them.... but only when my Saints break. Razz
  • + 1
 I agree about the stiffness comment but they do come with the BB tool.
  • + 1
 think i might get a time machine into the future and get a set of these on eBay. hopefully people are gonna throw out a pair of new style Saint's for a set of these as its hard justifying so much with the crank prices these days when buying new despite discount
  • + 1
 I'm seeing a weird name connection here. The "old" cranks made by The Hive were under the moniker "Fifteen.G," and the new cranks will be under the "e.thirteen" name. "Fifteen.G" and "e.thirteen." Coincidence? I don't believe in coincidences.
  • + 1
 These are beefed up from their 15G cranks which I use and love. They are stiff, light, and problem free. They also look good on the bike. Bottom bracket hasn't been serviced yet after 8 months of riding and a long northern ca winter. Price is good for the quality you get.
  • + 2
 Just looking at the pictures, the e*thirteen logo on the arms are woefully off centred. Unless they were going for that look.
  • + 4
 lol, yea im pretty sure thats what they are going for.
  • + 0
 I was really skeptical about this when I saw the first feature the other day. But after watching the video, I'm pretty much sold on this now. I'm looking foward to replacing my Diablous crankset with the E-13. Really good price for the whole kit plus install tool!
  • + 5
 lighttttttt
  • + 4
 me want!
  • + 2
 look nice and strong ,but ill need the grany gear to go to the top
  • - 1
 if you read it, it says the granny gear bolts to the bigger chain ring. exactly how i have no idea
  • + 3
 Look at the pics of the rings in the video more closely. The dual ring setup uses special rings, so that the granny ring bolts onto the big ring. This means that in order to run a dual ring setup on this crankset, you will be forced to stick with e.13 rings.
  • + 3
 Which isnt exactly a bad thing, E13 rings are ace imo.
  • + 1
 yes i know that, i was just saying if i would get this crank i would get it whit the granny gear,but thx for pointing it out
  • + 1
 Agreed but if the cranks hit it off, there will be a a fair few of the companies that make rings will develop some. Simple. They won't miss out on something like that.
  • + 2
 i wonder how they would hold up for street/park/dirt/4x
  • + 2
 They're DH cranks, I'm sure they'll hold up fine.
  • + 1
 lol agreed
  • - 2
 Looks promising indeed. I would really like these to finaly resolve the issue of cranksets with hollow crank arms of comparable weight, as e*13 guys don't seem to just mess around. I'm sort of confused if "hollowness" really helps construction-wise. If that one proves to hold as well as hollows, I would be one hype wiser Smile I just wasn't taking enough attention on construction structure classes where they explained whether an O section is more efficient than C or H sections, or whether it just... depends Smile
  • + 1
 Tubing will normally be stronger than a solid rod.

So in other terms, a hollowtech type arm will be many times stronger than a solid arm (machined with i beam or whtever other way to strengthen and stiffen that they can think of.

Reason why you don't see those 2,000 foot tv towers using i beams. They use tubing all the way up, with i beam reinforcements. Tubing is better against flex, and more evenly distributes load, wear, and fatigue.

just to let you guys know, profile dj arms are disappearing from the market Smile
profileracing.com/estore2/index.php?productid=136

heehee. For those of you anti breaking products, check em out. How much do they weight... well, less than your frame and more than your balls. lol
  • + 1
 Well, I'm not totaly convinced tubing is better in crankset application. As you say mast works better as a tube in general, 1st of all it has resist wind force from all directions. C or V shape are not going to work with that. Furthermore to sustain it's own weight against gravity tube shape will be best too as it sort of has no sides to which it tips over better.

Now crank arm works as a cantilever beam, both for bending and for twisting, as the length of the pedal adds a leverage. While doing these G-outed burms it also works for stretching, but well in case of this material it plays absolutely no role comparing to previously mentioned forces. If we talk buildings, you find tubes quite rarely for beams both in steel, wood or concrete, doesn't matter. T and C sections are most common. An that's what that crank arm is about Smile
  • + 1
 good explanation waki, I agree.
  • + 1
 Just remembered the one revolutionary 4130 crank for the time. You remember the gt crankset (can't remember the name) that came out when the Ultra Box came onto the market. Was the one with half plate, half tubing. Ultra stiff, and bomb proof. That makes me wonder if they could make a hollowtech type arm, but utilizing an i beam etc design similar to the old (fsa cranks? circa 2000, the ones with the crazy beam status). Wonder if mixing the 2 designs would be worth any time. By the looks of it, everyone is still into the smooth any pretty crank arm look, but in reality, function over look. Let me see if I can find a pic of those old dh cranks I mentioned.
  • + 1
 Just got these cranks and having some troubles installing. Unless i put the wave spacer on the drive side the crank runs too close to my E13 LG1+ meaning the crank bolts rub againtt it and wont allow it to spin freely
  • + 3
 fuck yeah! sick!
  • + 1
 anyone see a significance to having the bolt on interface on the non-driveside?
  • + 3
 i want that crank!!!
  • + 1
 lighter,cheaper, stronger pick 2
  • + 2
 want that sproket
  • + 1
 super nice, GJ gang, hook up Breakaway in Ropo up with some.
  • + 2
 one word... legit..
  • + 1
 ohh god i think i'm in love Blank Stare
  • + 2
 Sweet looking!
  • - 1
 looks really good, it would be really sick if you could get them in the atlas fr colours
  • + 1
 i need those cranksSmile
  • - 3
 how much do those things go for?
  • + 7
 reading comprehension is fundamental.
  • + 1
 Welcome to Pinkbike, sortafast.
  • - 1
 I am soo buying these !
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