How To Take Pan Shot Photos - Video

 We've got more in the tank! P.S. He told me to ride slow. P.P.S. Honest.

 Pan pun. NICE!

 The only pan shots I take are of impressive offloadings...

 Based on experience, closer w/ a wider lens will be more forgiving, if only b/c it's harder to keep subject in shot while panning on a telephoto lens. Either way, I'd work out focus distance w/ the early racers so you could lock focus into Manual to prevent the lens from hunting as you shoot the Pro's / your friends (unless you've got a $6k camera body / $4k+ lens setup, then built-in super-sharp / fast autofocus features should allow you to shoot however you'd like)

 Keeping the shutter speed the same for both Further away (to a point obvs) is easier. Basically the shorter the distance the camera moves the easier it is. A wide angle close pan is a lot harder to get sharp than one from a distance. Go out and give it a go though as everyone's different but Im going to take an educated guess that you'll have more keepers shooting pans at 100-200mm rather than 16-24mm
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 I would have expected it to be easier with a normal or longer lens (anything between say 50-200mm), not a wide angle. Was a little surprised to see Mr. Delorme shooting with what looks to be a wide-angle prime.

I guess I'll have to go out and experiment to see what works for me, but it's always more fun when you can set yourself up for quicker success. That way you have a chance of actually getting people decent shots for their time spent riding in front of your camera.

 @JaredHarzan: The lens is a 25mm f2. Yes, easier to handle when you are starting out.

 At first, a wide angle lens is going to be easier to handle. I agree with kurtz433 on the telephoto lens panning.

 @JaredHarzan you'll get more motion blur out of a longer lens, meaning you can use a faster shutter speed for the same amount of blur. The longer lens will also have a narrow depth of field and be harder to keep the entire rider in frame. Long lens pans seem to be best for more abstract shots where the rider is pasted against a complete blur.

Wider angle shots will need a slower shutter speed for the same blur, and depending on your composition may give your shot more context. Some shooters (Sterl is amazing at this) do really well with subtle pans in wide angle shots to get the rider and bike to pop.

 My best motorsports shots were slow shutter between 150 and 200mm manual focus set at the spot I want to shoot.

 @mdelorme: Are you saying it's easier to shoot a pan while close to the rider with a wide angle lens like a 25mm??? Curious why you think this?
It's much easier to keep a subject in frame and sharp on a telephoto as they will appear to be moving slower and your camera travels less of a distance. Although biking maybe a little different than most sports as you don't always have room between you and your subject, it's pretty widely taught that a telephoto will be much easier for pans in sports

 It's good practise to keep the camera in M the entire time, unless you're just shooting sporadically without too much thought.

It gives you far more control over the end product. I don't think I've used any of the auto modes once in the last 8+ years of shooting. Do it enough and you'll have a good idea of what settings you'll need given a specific scene.

Another good point when taking pan shots is to set up a 3rds grid or similar in your viewfinder - then keep the subject on one of the intersecting points. Keeping the subject in a static position in your viewfinder whilst tracking them allows you to follow their speed much more accurately and thus returns a more reliably sharp image.

 Peak Design. The strap also. I've got one and I love it.

 It looks just like the GoPro shoulder mount from Polar Pro. Only...not cheap as hell and flimsy.

www.peakdesign.com/product/clips/?gclid=CjwKCAiAoNTUBRBUEiwAWje2liiTBsHIcQ6NBcjjJFkMlBNSRVeauw-TB_p6--x0ifQsQaaXNfex7hoCLjYQAvD_BwE

 The Peak Design Capture Clip is strong enough for more than light riding. The mount plate will rattle a little bit in the clip if the camera shakes around but it won't fall out. What terrain you can ride with the camera attached comes down to how confident you are not crashing on it since it is pretty exposed there.

 It was cold as hell. So yeah, I sound like I just did a line of blow.

 It was -4 Celsius - SO COLD!

 @mdelorme: actually pumped you replied!!1 thanks for making my night!

 That's a panoramic shot, which is a very different thing.

 Most likely, yes. I've had a Nokia Lumia 630 (back to Nokia 108 now as I don't like touchscreens) but yeah in the Windows software you could adjust settings like aperture, focus and shutter speed. I expect the same could be done with other brands and operating systems.

 Yup, here's one done on an iPhone 6: www.pinkbike.com/photo/15017217