• Entry level Candy pedal • Uses revamped spindle • Inboard bushing, outboard bearing • Plastic composite body • Stamped wings • Black only • Two year warranty • 262 grams • MSRP $60.00 USD
New Crank Brothers Candy 2
Crank Brothers Candy 2 details
• Aluminum CNC'd body • Uses revamped spindle • Stamped wings • Two color options • Orange or silver color options • Five year warranty • 296 grams per pair • MSRP $90.00 USD
New Crank Brothers Candy 11
Crank Brothers Candy 11 details
• Premium Candy pedal • Uses titanium spindle • Improved 200 lb weight limit • Needle bearing instead of bushing • Aluminum CNC'd body • Titanium wings • Five year warranty • 226 grams per pair • MSRP $375.00 USD
New Crank Brothers Iodine 2 stem
Crank Brothers Iodine 2 stem details
• Built from 7075 aluminum • Uses steerer tube wedge clamp system • T25 torx hardware throughout • Length options of 65 mm to 120 mm • 175 grams • MSRP $90.00 USD
New Crank Brother Cobalt 11 post
New Crank Brother Cobalt 11 post details
• New premium seatpost from Crank Brothers • One piece carbon post and head • Uses high mod unidirectional carbon • Available is 27.2, 30.9, 31.6, and 34.9 • Two lengths available: 350 mm and 400 mm • 157 grams (31.6/350 mm) • MSRP $220 USD
New Crank Brothers Joplin 4 seatpost
Crank Brothers Joplin 4 seatpost details
• New telescoping post • 4" of drop • Secondary internal guide block helps minimize side to side play • More robust U-seal replaces original O-ring • New reinforced rail clamps • Remote or lever version • 30.9 and 31.6 diameter options
sooo do the new Joplin post last more than two weeks of riding? not joking at all. Waiting for RA numbers to send back two posts, super disappointed. I thought maybe one was just a fluke when it pooped out in a month with a handful of rides, but when number 2 took a shit after 4 rides, that is lame. And for Doug13 comment on the 50/50... totally agree when i first got a pair on a new Sunday I thought they'd be amazing... Bahaha pedaling at Angel Fire, NM and they seized up. Candy's on the cyclocross bike are great tho, end on a positive i guess?
Doubt it. They added one retainer to the post supposedly... whereas the ks i900 has had 3 from the get go. Ive been running one of those posts ragged, AND it has 5" of drop as opposed to 4. Take a look into those if you want one without ridiculous play in 2 weeks!
why in the bloody hell would they put torx screws on the stem ?that's just messing with customers. Crank Brother is so random in their quality and overall designs. their line of clip pedals are great and reliable, i just love egg beater to mallets their 50/50 are plain crap , don't know about their wheels.
better stop riding the hype wave and stick with the right products instead of coming out with brand new old stuff with new flavors.
SRAM is also going the route of Torx, it adds life to products. Allen keys strip a lot easier and Torx has more surface area = better engagement. The wheels are actually pretty good - I have a set of Iodines and have experienced no issues. The rim is beyond strong. I like the fact that CB is willing to try things that are different and "out of the Box". My only complaint is that I wish that their adjustable posts would improve in longevity as they are the smoothest in function, but close to last in reliability at this point.
Really glad to see some new quality looking stuff from CB. Especially liking the new regular seatpost and Candy's. Stem steer tube clamp concept is actually very old, but it looks the part with unusual colouring.
Lets hope all will be working well.
I gotta agree that CB has quality issues but I don't think that this stuff is an improvement. we'll see how well the seatpost fastener will hold up, same goes for the closures on the stems. I'm not interested in being a guinea pig to test out these new designs.
the crank brothers moto should be "we put form before function"
Crank Brothers are like are like graphic designers making bike parts. They look awesome, but just don't have the quality. I'm still using their pedals because I love their mud shedding abilities and weight, but they need to be rebuilt almost weekly or the interior begins to rust!
It's nice that they are attempting to improve on reliability, but I wouldn't be able to fork out for any of their new products based on the failures of the cranks, adjustable seatpost issues and lousy quality of pedals. Hope it works out for them.
crank brothers makes a whole bunch of Sh!t products. They're pedals always break! That stem looks stupid, and the seat post is one of the things made for the biking industry that nobody REALLY needs.. the rest of their stuff is just topped by better products. I hate this company after wasting money of 3 pairs of pedals that all broke after a year or so during normal use.
OR some proper machining on the 50/50s so that one color (Half the pedal) doesn't fall off in a month...Happened to me once, and 3 of my friends at the races...
putting a expensivce adjustable seatpost that has a reliability problem makes absolutly no sense to me. yet , i see them as very popular and as if they were the greatest things.
people , get QR seat post collar , they are 100% reliable , cheap and getting on and off the bike take about 4-5 seconds. (get a closer look at cyclo cross biker, good skills is everywhere) ok , i know. 4-5 seconds can win or loose world champs !...riiiiight. good argument champ. these are desing for epic AM rides and enduro DH races , -if you're in a epic AM ride , take 5 seconds. -if your racing in the top spots for that single track section in the Mega , get very good sponsors that will garanty their product for your race.
no , noone as been able to sell me the adjustable seat post thing. Not yet anyway.
Was looking at the CB pedals just because my Time pedals are 8yrs old now. Nothing wrong with them but figured someone has to have a better pedal out now. I love quality though and abhor the form over function motto.
So any thoughts on those who have moved to the CB pedals?
My Joplin 4 is broken after just four rides. There's ~1.5" of up-down slop in top position, it does't rise up without pulling from seat, and it seems to be leaking some oil for bottom. Read the manual and FAQ with no help (btw, they don't even provide instructions for complete overhaul). This is my second Crank Brothers product that failed. My Power Pump Alloy didn't work at all.
I had to get replacement plates for my 5050 XX pedals and they dont even fit snug so theres just two little screws holding them in place and they jiggle about like hell!
Yeah, I thought Thomson Masterpiece's were insane, but this tops that.. I like the saddle mounting system, but christ, where's the budget version? Is there going to be a Cobalt 1 version for $60(like the Candy 1)?
I would have thought that the seatpost system they have would crush your seat rails inwards, unless there's a centre part to support the rails? I hope there is...
i not convinced about the allen bolt/torx bolt thing. i have gone through so many cheap allen bolts from manufacturers who think its a good place to save money on production. definitely willing to give torx bolts a try!
Torx are so much less likely to strip than allen's, and anyone who works on their bike should have torx for their disc brake rotors(and before someone says it, Yes I know there's more than one size)...
I think that stem look sick! I love the two-tone ano.
i talking about water collecting in the bolt heads after riding in the mud and then washing it (read: taking care of the bike). inevitably rust will build up, which is why i prefer the deeper heads of most hex bolts (plus they are easier to scrap dirt and other grime out of than a torx.
"i talking about water collecting in the bolt heads" "which is why i prefer the deeper heads of most hex bolts" Uuuuh isn't the deeper head gonna hold more water which will take longer to evaporate and cause more rust???
1. MTB is all about repairing stuff in the field and who wants to take TWO sets of keys with you? 2. Some above say that you can do Torx up tighter than hex - that's great - but what would you prefer to strip - the head on the bolt, or the part it is threaded into? 3. How many Nm does a stem plate need? 6? 8? You can achieve that EASILY with a hex - you don't need Torx to do it up tighter. 4. Something is weaker on Torx - the tools themselves. Last night I was working on a bike in the shop and all the T30 key heads were snapped (I wanted to replace the Al crank bolts for SS). I had to use a T30 bit. The T25 keys are mostly snapped too. There is not one snapped hex key in the shop. End rant.
Crank Brother is so random in their quality and overall designs.
their line of clip pedals are great and reliable, i just love egg beater to mallets
their 50/50 are plain crap ,
don't know about their wheels.
better stop riding the hype wave and stick with the right products instead of coming out with brand new old stuff with new flavors.
the crank brothers moto should be "we put form before function"
people , get QR seat post collar , they are 100% reliable , cheap and getting on and off the bike take about 4-5 seconds. (get a closer look at cyclo cross biker, good skills is everywhere)
ok , i know. 4-5 seconds can win or loose world champs !...riiiiight. good argument champ.
these are desing for epic AM rides and enduro DH races ,
-if you're in a epic AM ride , take 5 seconds.
-if your racing in the top spots for that single track section in the Mega , get very good sponsors that will garanty their product for your race.
no , noone as been able to sell me the adjustable seat post thing. Not yet anyway.
So any thoughts on those who have moved to the CB pedals?
Are they testing their products at all?
I think that stem look sick! I love the two-tone ano.
@ klopp, if the bolts on your bike are rusted, you just ain't taking propper care of it!
"easier to scrap dirt and other grime out" It's all easy with the right tool:
www.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/397201/2/istockphoto_397201-ice-pick-awl.jpg
1. MTB is all about repairing stuff in the field and who wants to take TWO sets of keys with you?
2. Some above say that you can do Torx up tighter than hex - that's great - but what would you prefer to strip - the head on the bolt, or the part it is threaded into?
3. How many Nm does a stem plate need? 6? 8? You can achieve that EASILY with a hex - you don't need Torx to do it up tighter.
4. Something is weaker on Torx - the tools themselves. Last night I was working on a bike in the shop and all the T30 key heads were snapped (I wanted to replace the Al crank bolts for SS). I had to use a T30 bit. The T25 keys are mostly snapped too. There is not one snapped hex key in the shop.
End rant.