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Tech Talks: Fixing Cassette Play, Presented by Park Tool - Video

Jul 27, 2017
by Pinkbike Staff  
Tech Talks Presented by Park Tool

Tech Talks Presented by Park Tool is a monthly video series hosted by Park Tool's own wrench whisperer, Calvin Jones. The series covers the A to Zs of some of the most prevalent repair jobs, with the thirteenth episode taking a closer look at annoying cassette rattle.

If you listen closely, you'll discover that our bikes can actually tell us when something isn't right with them. Having a discerning ear is important when tracking down those noises, and Calvin is here to show us how to recognize a common cause of annoying rattles.

Fixing Cassette Play

Views: 8,006    Faves: 15    Comments: 3

Need more Calvin in your life?
Episode #1 - Tubeless tire installation and conversion
Episode #2 - Saving that bent disc rotor
Episode #3 - Derailleur hanger alignment
Episode #4 - Shimano and Crankbrothers pedal service
Episode #5 - Trailside wheel repair
Episode #6 - Trailside chain repair
Episode #7 - Derailleur limits and cable tension
Episode #8 - Derailleur setup
Episode #9 - Fork wiper seal replacement
Episode #10 - Clipless pedal setup
Episode #11 - New cleat setup
Episode #12 - Top 5 next level shifting issues

Stay tuned for more mechanical how-to videos with Calvin returning on the last Thursday of every month to show you the easiest way to get the job done. Want to know more? Park Tool's how-to section has you and your bike covered.

www.parktool.com / @ParkToolCompany

Author Info:
pinkbikeaudience avatar

Member since Jul 22, 2013
3,486 articles

  • 23 0
 Hey Parktool (and PB)

Can you do a techtalk on bedding in Brake Pads??!!

There is lots of confusion, and everybody seems to do stuff differently, It would be great to see what they would recommend.

Tangentially, It would also be great to hear their advice for issues that arise, like cooked pads, cooked rotors, contamination etc. I think this is one topic that everybody should know more about, and i would like to see their recommendations. Its one of the few areas that truly drive me bonkers when my brakes are making noise they shouldnt.
  • 1 1
 Agreed. My SRAM brakes sound like wild turkey's...and not the kind you drink. No touch, 20 runs to stop and then ride. Guaranteed glazed turkey...
  • 22 2
 @nicolai12: I have a perfect video idea for this. Just picture someone unbolting the Sram brakes and rotors and then throwing them in the trash. The next step in the video would be bolting on ANY model of Shimano brakes.
  • 2 0
 @cheeverbrent: If you are recording now...well, that would be the video. I will sell them to...someone on PB haha
  • 1 0
 @nicolai12: Most of the problems come with 4 pistons. You have to maintain them more often (cleaning, greasing), so the movement of the piston is equal to each other. Done that a while ago without bleeding and they are acting as new (Guide R) without that wobble sound.
  • 7 0
 Love this guy from Park Tools; he has a very good way of describing problems, and solutions.
  • 4 0
 No more knocky knocky people Jingle jangle rail berms leogang I like this guy. Reminds me of the pool cleaner that used to visit my parents house before they got divorced
  • 4 1
 You do realize that the pool cleaner was railing your mom?
  • 4 0
 @MrReddington: They use the term Noodle
  • 3 0
 Some cassettes still have wiggle if you tighten the lock ring. You need to put a small spacer ring on prior to installing the cassette to fix.
  • 4 1
 Need to buy another pair tools to fix it. But buy a park tool DVD to learn how to fix it.
  • 2 0
 Does anyone know of a part to stop chain from getting wedge between frame and cassette?
  • 6 0
 Adjust your limit screws so the chain can't fall off the back of the cassette.
  • 1 0
 For chain dropping off the largest cogs into the wheel, there are dork disks if you can live with that.

But really you should be using the derailleurs High and Low limit screws to prevent the chain from dropping off either side.
A properly adjusted High limit screw will stop the chain from dropping off the smallest cog. A properly adjusted Low limit screw will stop the chain from dropping off the largest cog.
  • 2 0
 I know how to limit but larger cogs and single ring provide more chain slack. It then falls when riding hard. I guess no one else has experience it. For now I will not use the final gear.
  • 1 0
 @Rider656: why are you in the your granny gear when riding hard? Remember to shift to a harder gear before you start descending maybe?
  • 1 0
 @Rider656: Shouldn't your chain have the most amount of tension on it, in the largest cog, with a 1x ? ... if your chain is slack in that gear, you are doing something wrong.

You can buy your Drok Disc's here. www.niagaracycle.com/categories/wheels/spoke-protectors
  • 1 0
 @cmcrawfo: Chain is falling between frame and smallest cog and not cassette and spokes. Dork disc is not the answer. Anyways thanks for the help.
  • 2 0
 @Rider656: I followed what you meant...
- try winding the lower limit screw in until it fails to drop cleanly into the bottom gear, then back off a fraction.
- check chain length, allowing for suspension chain growth
- you can add chain tension by winding in the b tension screw. It may slow shifting a fraction but can help keep a things tighter ones that need the chain length.
- you can adjust clutch tension on the mech.
Good luck!
  • 1 0
 @gravityslaves: my chain is at 90 degrees I forgot about the third screw. I will have Chain more close to 45 degree from cassette to derailleur. More wrap if that's what your referring to? Also I will see if I can increase clutch on XT. Thanks for the tip!!
  • 1 0
 @gravityslaves: ok I notice I had zero tension and a lot of excess chain slack when on small tooth. I removed two links and put a lot more chain to wrap around cassette with 3rd screw. I also found a screw under a rubber boot i tighten a little (not sure if this is clutch tension?) I also got chain to barly hit last small ring with screw. I will try this out riding tomorrow...look promising. Thanks again
  • 1 0
 @Rider656: yes, that's your clutch tension under the rubber boot. Sounds like you ticked off a lot of boxes to remedy your issues. The 3rd screw your talking about, sounds like the B tension screw. You usually adjust that in the largest cog, and adjust it so the pulleys are about 10mm from the cog.
Happy riding
  • 1 0
 Does the tech have a percussion background? I only ask because he referred to the clunk as a flam. And of course, the Gene reference.
  • 2 0
 Indeed, very strange. This is the top 5 of next level shifting isseusWink
  • 2 0
 really nice help videos! well explained
  • 1 0
 I love these videos! My bank account doesn't though Frown I end up buying new tools all the time cause of em.
  • 1 1
 I watch for the way he says Tik-Toks (Tech Talks).
  • 1 4
 I don't know if it's my problem, or bicycle repair's, but if you want a perfect bike, never ride it. My premise used to basically be, "ride it until it's too broken", because they don't stay the way you want for very long.
  • 4 0
 I have an 04 RMX that begs to differ man
  • 1 0
 @mhoshal: Yeah, I used to ride mine lots. My mom has 1992 Schwinn that is practically brand new. I got a TOL dirtjumper Norco 5hun back in early 2000's, and it held up maybe 3 years, with the gears taken off, and the broken in half fork replaced. Had flat spot rim, bent rims blahblahblah. I guess it depends how you ride.
  • 2 0
 A girl I know has a bike from the 1970's/80's she still rides, I guess it's all the person.

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