y0bailey

@Tambo: I'm not smart enough to understand this suspension, but if the "saddle lowers" a bit when seated climbing over a square edge root/rock, and you don't get ass-blasted up a bit by your saddle, that would be a "plus" in my tiny-brain. Set saddle height to feel good on smooth pedaling like gravel, then it "lowers" a bit when taking small hits/bumps...no complaints there. Someone smarter than me chime in...because if it's the opposite of that it seems like hot garbage.

Pre-Aenomaly: Tilted down slightly. This would save my man-parts from numbness during long climbs. I've tried every saddle on earth, it just happens to me and I hate it. On rolling/flat terrain this forward tilt would put some pressure on my arms/hands and would fatigue them, but I'll trade some rare hand numbness for dick numbness any day of the week. Post-Aenomaly: Flat to slightly back-down, then tilt it down on prolonged climbs. No more hand numbness, no more dick numbness, and I don't have to pay money for boner pills anymore. It paid for itself!

@Moosemandible: I routinely try to hop on/over the highest things I can find. My taco looks like it was run through a meat grinder...but through a shitload of practice I can hop onto the top of a picnic table. I'm not going to stop showing off that skill I worked hard for, and I'm not buying a bike that can't handle it when I fuck up.

Same here...I would rather they put the belt tensioner ANYWHERE else along the driveline.

These brakes are the fucking jam beyond reach adjustment, and that is now fixed. My only "complaint" is that somehow the fucking Cura is better than the Cura4 for the majority of my riding? How is that light little fucker so powerful? Is that a thing? I have the Cura4 on my enduro bike with bigger rotors and Galfer pads, and I'm not convinced it's equal/less powerful than the Cura with Galfer pads on my "downcountry" bike. I'm sure it is more fade resistant, but I live in NC and that rarely matters. Anyways, Formula brakes for life...my only complaint is gone, and you can buy them from across the pond for cheaper than grabbing a competitor in the states.

@RonSauce: "Protein breaks down into amino acids, which the body converts into ammonia. The body then releases this ammonia through urine and sweat, which may produce an odor. Dehydration can also make the sweat smell like ammonia. This is because the body needs water to get rid of ammonia through sweat. If there is not enough water to dilute the ammonia as it is released by the body, the smell of ammonia may be stronger." Some research suggests exercise affects ammonia levels in sweat. A 2007 study found that ammonia levels in sweat increased as a person exercised more intensely. A 2005 study found that while ammonia levels in sweat increased significantly during exercise, ammonia levels in sweat reduced over the 24 hour period after exercise and remained low after 72 hours. This suggests a person may find their sweat smells most strongly of ammonia during or just after exercise. It doesn't help that I start off most rides burning off a weekend hangover.

Who the fuck buys this stuff? I'm still riding in the same old Nike "dry fit" shit I wore in high school (and I'm 40 now). My bibs have enough holes in them I know my dick will eventually fall out, but it all still works and is comfortable. Sure, it smells like ammonia/cat piss no matter how many times I wash it, but I'm just going to make it smell like cat piss again 15 minutes into a ride so who fucking cares. I'll get a tiny bit picky about my baggies so I'll allow that...but for fuck's sake people.

@powturn: Buy M4 bolt, cut it with hacksaw, cross thread, buy new tap set, re-tap lever, buy new M4 bolt, crossthread, buy new loam lever.

Love everything PNW, but you guys need to get that little cable clamp bolt for these levers back in stock! I fat-fingered mine and stripped it (my allen keys were old as dirt and stripping everything before I realized it), and now I've just used a dremel to turn it into a flat-head that will likely disintegrate at my next cable swap.

I always TRY to save these, because I started off buying $200-300 jackets that STILL had me sopping wet, and eventually got DWR wear on high friction areas. I can wash in another round of DWR that lasts a season at best. They all end up like sopping wet trash bags...so why not just spend $15 on trash bags? I just buy Frog Togg $30-60 jackets now. The Xtreme Lite is holding up insanely well and I'm not afraid to actually wear the damn thing compared to a $300 jacket I treat like a egg that still ends up cracked. I don't cry when I have to tape it, packs down to nothing, and I actually would take it over some $200 jacket in a heartbeat after owning multiple of them. THEY ARE ALL TRASH BAGS WHEN BEING USED FOR RIDING IN THE RAIN. $5 to $4000, it doesn't matter