If you have a Totem or Lyric fork that uses a Mission Control damper with the Floodgate feature, but don't take advantage of it and would like your fork to be more sensitive, this is the Tech Tuesday for you. Inside you'll find a great video that guides you through the process of removing the Floodgate for more active suspension.
Source: Colin "Hummeroid" Alexander
There are lots of riders out there who's bikes are equipped with either RockShox Totem or Lyric forks, and of those a lot of riders don't bother using the Floodgate feature. By removing the Floodgate unit from your fork entirely you can increase your fork's sensitivity which is never a bad thing. The great thing about this mod is that if you don't like the results, it's easy to put it back to factory spec. While performing this job is relatively easy, it does take some basic knowledge and tools to do correctly. It is very important that the parts are reassembled in the correct way and that the oil stays at the proper height. If you don't feel confident that you can do this mod, please hit up your local shop and have their trained mechanics do the work for you. Tools needed:
24 mm socket or crescent wrench
, allen key set
, SRAM 24 mm flat wrench (channel lock pliers work, but can damage the L/S adjust
), snap ring pliers, and a syringe. Gloves will also come in handy.
Video by Hummeroid
The guys at SRAM know that riders out there love to tinker and fine-tune their suspension to get it exactly how they want, but it's important to do that tinkering correctly. Below you'll find some tips directly from SRAM that expand on the process of removing the Floodgate component from your Totem or Lyric fork, as well as some technical info about their 2010 dampers.
• Instead of using channel lock pliers, the SRAM flat 24 mm wrench is the correct tool for the job. Channel locks can damage the low speed adjust. Simply turn the high-speed compression knob until you can fit the flat 24mm wrench underneath.
• A note on the "excess oil" - This is NOT excess and should be taken into account when re-filling. Always remember to put this amount of damping fluid back in. You can also lightly push on the shim with a 2mm allen. This drains the damping fluid directly into the upper tube. Oil hight in this system is crucial for proper performance.
• Please do not grab the Pop-it with sharp metal tools. This is technically a sealing surface and should be handled accordingly to prevent any damage.
• The system does not require Teflon tape. The sealing comes from the o-ring at the top of the treads. We suggest that you never use Teflon tape in any RockShox product.
• Please refer to all torque specs when reassembling the fork.
We here at RockShox, understand the diverse conditions, the crossover in this particular category, and the quest for performance. This being said, we are all about choice. We offer three different damper choices for the Totem and Lyric forks:
The best way to educate you guys on the ride quality or feel of the two Mission Control dampers we offer is describing what we changed for model year 2010. First is the re-valved Mission Control damper. The mentality behind this damper stays the same, the floodgate is intact as one of the quickest and easiest climbing tools in the all mountain realm, while we slightly changed the compression tune for better bump performance. The second completely new damper, Mission Control DH, is aimed at the rider who prefers the descent. This option is purely focused on bump performance. The Mission Control DH shares a lot of similarities to the video shown above. We have made some adjustments to the shim stack that really optimizes the ride feel and quality. Both dampers share updates to their rebound damping, which now features a larger displacement shaft and the removal of an internal tube, so a larger rebound piston can be utilized. The third damper is the Motion Control IS. This is an easy to use compression damper that we have used in other forks such as the Domain and Domain Dual Crown.
Past Tech Tuesdays
:Technical Tuesday #1 - How to change a tube. Technical Tuesday #2 - How to set up your SRAM rear derailleur Technical Tuesday #3 - How to remove and install pedals Technical Tuesday #4 - How To Bleed Your Avid Elixir Brakes Technical Tuesday #5 - How To Check And Adjust Your Headset Technical Tuesday #6 - How To Fix A Broken Chain Technical Tuesday #7 - Tubeless Conversion Technical Tuesday #8 - Chain Wear Technical Tuesday #9 - SRAM Shift Cable Replacement Technical Tuesday #10 - Removing And Installing a HeadsetTechnical Tuesday #11 - Chain Lube ExplainedHave you found this tutorial helpful? Share any of your hints or tips below!
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