PRESS RELEASE: OchainWe are thrilled to announce the launch of our latest product - the Ochain•R
Revolution. Regulation. Real. Finally, after a long R&D process. Ochain•R is ascending the top of Ochain range. Thanks to a sophisticated, patented system, it enables riders to set up the appropriate “degree of freedom” from its outer face.
What does it for you? Ochain is an active spider, allowing the chainring to rotate backwards in order to disengage the transmission from the suspension, improving the whole riding experience and the bike’s performance.
Our engineers defined four setup possibilities, resulting in different degrees of proportional rotation. The defined options are: 4° / 6° / 9°/ 12° . Each one stands for a different degree of freedom your transmission can get for you to fulfill any riding condition and style.
See the chart below to better understand:
The Ochain is engineered for being used by those appreciating a more stable adjustment. Changing to different degrees is easy and possible but is still kind of a major setup change such as the head angle or the choice of rear wheel diameter.
The Ochain•R makes it easy to switch from one setup to another in seconds, using a 2.5 hex key. Imagine doing four DH laps and promptly testing all four degree options to choose the best one for that track. Or finding the perfect setup on every single Enduro PS with a sole key?
How does it work?
An hex key is all you need to disengage the system by rotating the black regulation nut backwards. Same key, now on the central allen seat, and you access all possible setups. Lasered lines are there as a reference for you. Lock back the system and you are ready to ride.
From the inside, this is made possible by a moving rack that modifies the ”starting point”. A conical coupling and a spring system ensures precision during adjustment. Developing the Ochain•R gave us a special opportunity to revise and optimize tolerances on the entire Ochain product range.
Ochain•R adapts to most direct mount cranksets, it fits a standard BCD 104 chainring and it is designed to replace the 3mm offset model.
Check on our website for all the available models.
Ochain•R details:
• Material: 7075 T6 Aluminum / 6082 Aluminium / Steel Inox 316.
• Offset: 3mm (6 mm / 7,5mm with Ochain Kit).
• Chainring standard: BCD 104 only, Oval chainring compatible.
• Weight: 150g.
• Fitting: Sram, Shimano, raceface, FSA, Etherteen, Hope.
• Rider weight limit: 120kg.
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World-class riders like Neko Mulally and Loris Revelli have been involved in the development and evolution of the new Ochain•R.
| The first time I tried this new version of the Ochain was at the US Open last year and I was able to quickly change between Ochain settings throughout the practice session to get my bike set up for that track, which was flatter than most other tracks I raced last season. It was really handy to be able to do that with a simple turn of an adjuster.— Neko Mulally |
We are proud to share with you Ochain•R and its technology as an upgrade to our existing product range. We feel you will love it as we and more and more riders do.
Available now on our website and in official stores.
- it is noticeable, you can feel your bike rides different
- this difference you feel have marginal influence on bike's speed even in the rough
- no chain retention is needed, your chain is dead quiet
- you can put max degree of float and for enduro riding it is ok uphll, you can easily accustom to it
- it is absolutely NOT worth the price (I bought it with 40% discount and still would not buy it again)
One more advantage:
- It adds a bit of grip while braking, definitely rear wheel skids a bit less, which is a pro.
Additionally, the Revgrips have been the longest lasting grip I've ever owned by far. I've had one of mine for 5, 6 seasons now? They finally are in need of replacement. Since the movement of the grip dramatically reduces friction with your gloves, I suspect this wears the rubber far less too. This justifies the cost for me, since it evens out if it lasts x3 times as long.
My priorities when buying a frame
1. Material/conception/realization
2. geometry (slack enough, low BB, steep seat tube)
3. low AS/PK, low and progressive LR
4. low or neutral AR
Knolly nicely match these points, if you think of another brand, please share !
But as its been said before, proper shock & fork setup matter more for non-DH bikes.
why does pinkbike hate reasoning? shit i'd drop the sport like it's hot just not to associate with droolers and mouthbreathers, you idiots are a threat to both yourself and everyone else and it's no one's fault but your own. the world won't wipe your lazy ass forever.
www.pinkbike.com/u/seb-stott/blog/why-you-shouldnt-worry-about-pedal-kickback.html
I’m 92kg and still on the same elastomers for nearly 2 years.
I’ve found the o chain to be awesome, gets rid of most pedal feedback. Especially if you ride real rooty, choppy trails.
Mine lasted half a season on gasket between the two plates. Elastomers are fine but the gasket between the two plates is what went first. Ochain gave me the runaround about how they couldn’t really help me so just seek a dealer. I believe it was Worldwide Cyclery that came through and sent me free a rebuild kit that comes with that seal
Since we are getting pigeonholed into having batteries and electronics everywhere on our bikes, maybe have a wireless, electric servo slaved to a motion sensor that engages a clutch? IDK. It just seems like there could be a better solution to this.
www.instagram.com/p/Ce59Nkrhevq
The chainless effect let’s me hit things with so much more confidence and speed, I’m starting to get worried about what’s going to break if I keep going this hard. Worth every cent (I have the old version)
With the ochain 9⁰ is 9⁰ no matter where your cranks are clocked.
With a hub you don't know if you have 2⁰ or 9⁰ before the hub engages, and there is no elastomer absorbing the shock. There is no consistency or smoothness between disengagement and engagement. In a race I can see how that could be helpful, even if its only comfort. Putting power down and having the hub engaged are not the same thing.
I thinks its a product very few people want or need, but I dont see how it compares to a low engagement hub.
That's why we need the review/comparison!
Firstly is the one most people talk about and that's the fact a low engagement hub can have anywhere from 0° to whatever degree engagement the hub is. so it's basically a gamble if it has any effect on pedal kick back.
Secondly is something most people ignore and that is if your braking that locks up your hub/drive-train so a low engagement hub has no benefit whatsoever whereas a O'chain is still active.
And lastly the term 'pedal kick back' refers to the effect the suspension has on the pedals but if you flying over rough stuff and your chain is bouncing around all over the place that to can pull on the pedals too. A low engagement hub wont have any effect on this but a O'chain does.
Pretty sure it's quite passive. Unless they added a motor in there to somehow predictively move the ring...
You will get similar effect 50% of the time
Are you guys 100% sure his performance was due to this gimmick or his actual skill as a rider? way to put him down fellas. a gimmick is a gimmick is a gimmick...
Oh an you do understand sponsored riders run what they're PAID to run.........
the same effect can be gained by a couple extra links in the chain. FACT
Or.... just try it for yourself
I'm saying a COUPLE extra links on a bike THAT NEEDS AN O CHAIN (high pivot) will have the same effect.....
I really can make it any simpler for you to understand.........
Bored now, naptime, zzzzzzzzzz
Unless you are riding in your largest rear cog all the time there is ALWAYS excess chain links in the system. Any extra slack from two additional links would just be taken up by the rear derailleur, just as it takes up all the slack from the excess chain when you move down to your smaller cogs. This is literally what the cage on your rear derailleur is there to do.
Using your logic simply changing gears would create havoc on suspension performance, pedal kickback, etc.
I give you credit though, you certainly are confident even though you don’t even understand the basics of how a derailleur works.
Nice try
Keep on, I really can't explain this any simpler
You nearly there to understanding the point I'm trying to make with your comments on larger cogs making the chain tighter.. Canon man your SOO nearly there....