Randoms - Core Bike 2014

 Can't say the same for the Nicolai ...

And about the super slack head angle on it , are the forks really meant to be under those sort of stresses ? Imagine the angle of it when bottomed out.

 That Nicolai looks dangerous...

 those chainstays are the size of bigfoots dick

 The identiti looks like a session, not going to lie.

 @clarry I agree! I was just waiting for the first "looks like a session" comment haha

 The Identiti has very decent components for the price so I would be tempted to get one, upgrade the frame after a year or so and suddenly you have a top level DH rig for less than half the normal cost.

 Identity.. Vitus Dominer?

 Nicolai's don't break

 @mr-man-guy you do know the $1200 is for the frame and shock, correct?

 the Identiti looks exactly like the carbon supreme operator..

 That's true, the linkage is very similar, more so than the session. But the front triangle on the identiti is more similar to the session, it's a bit beefier looking than the kona.

 It's a Taokas Dumun.

www.taokas-bicycle.com/taokas/cn/products_detail.php?uID=14&cID=17&Key=4

You can buy them for about 700 quid in Taiwan.

As for the Nicolai, is that one of those old Azonic zero offset stems from 1995?

 The Mogul doesnt ride particularly well. It is very hard to corner thanks to the high bb and steep head angle, and feels more like a trail bike, hence the low price.

 @Dan255 ahaha, I should have read that more carefully

 is the same like vitus dominer 2?
www.chainreactioncycles.com/gr/en/vitus-bikes-dominer-ii-suspension-bike-2013/rp-prod84767

 is that nicolai running forward geometry? As for the identiti - been around years now so its about time that great little frame got some publicity

 Yer i think so, look at the stem. The bars are in the same place they would be, if the front triangle was slightly shorter but you were using a longer stem.

 I'm very interested in that cheap dh bike, looks fun!

 I hate it. It looks like a cobbled together hunk of junk. All straight lines and corners, loads of sharp edged CNC work. Horrible. Give me organic swoopy looking carbon any time.

 If you want an "organic swoopy looking carbon" frame, then don't buy a Nicolai because this is how all of them look like and that's why people buy them. It's like complaining that a Porsche has two oval headlights.

 More like complaining that an I-beam is I shaped, despite the distinct and proven strength advantages of it.

 This is how I feel about its geometry inspiration
www.bikeradar.com/gallery/article/military-bicycles-a-short-history-34906/3

 That head angle looks ridiculous, 60 degrees?

 I think it's 65, but it's only guessing. Together with the seat tube angle and the size, I don't know if it works, but it's just ugly to me.

 I put my phone next to the fork (at the computer screen, not in real life) and it said something between 62 and 63 degrees :O

 Wow. It's got to be a smart phone.

 That Nicolai is great. Defintely a step in the right direction by someone who has an understanding of geo. I think a good 29" is the more elegant solution but well done to him for trying to get away from the same old stuff that's on the market.

 It looks like you'd fit a 29" wheel in that rear triangle

 My Ion 16 is 65 degrees stock. That one above looks like it's been lengthened in the TT and slacked out, must be closer to 60

 Looks cool. I'd probably choose similar geo if I got a trail bike. Would be nice to know the geo.

 In my opinion 67 is just enough for a trail bike, BUT it all depends on type of trail, rider, preferance etc. I was riding 67degrees for 2 years and then changed into 65 so it is better for me now, but there is a need to get used to nervous steerring in low speed technical sections. The lower the number, and the shorter a stem, the wider bar I would recommend. Wider bar means more space so it could be problem for short people.. it's complicated

 @Jedrzeja - you don't have to go 800mm you can go 750mm if you are shorter. Also shorter people have shorter frames so it's not as much of a problem.


As for 67 being enough. It depends on the trails. Some alpine singletrack is idiotically steep. You wouldn't believe. Some of it is as steep as champery if not worse.

 I was speaking the rules I've learned in general. I am quite tall. It's 190cm. I ride large size frame, with 65degred headtube, 52mm stem and 780mm bar. I believe you about this alpine steepness. I know it can be anything in the Alps.

 I live in the french alpes and personally won't ride a bike with a head angle over 64º independent of amount of travel! I have yet to see a trail bike I'd buy and NOT have to get an angleset if not offset bushings AS WELL just to get a headangle I be confortable with.
I also ride my Specialized Status uphill (in the offseason) with 62.5º headangle and with a 780mm hanglebar and the front end doesn't wander. It makes me think that bikes could go slacker e.g. a 160mm bike with 63-64º or a 140mm bike with 64º. As for slow tight stuff it just takes some getting used that's all.

 When I changed 67º into 65º it was very noticeable. I know 65 is even to short for latest donwhill trends, but it's even too much when facing a slow, flat, technical section, or a uphill. I know trails of french alps are really steep, and it's never too slack, so I think it could be best if it was adjustable during riding.

 @SintraFreeride there are uphills and uphills. Before I rode DH i did some XC racing as a kid and the uphills that are doable on a status are no the uphills I'm talking about. The uphills I mention are so hard you just can't do them on a status.

Also your philosophy slacker is always better is not the way to go. For some trails agility is just better as much as I am a fan of slack bikes

 Oh I know that if you ride in flatter areas you don't require a super slack headangle. And that kinda of terrain coupled with slower speeds will just prove your point but I was just saying that we could go slacker and it would still work well in most conditions. On flatter sections I weight the front more but if I were to ride flatter trails I'd just lower the front of the bike to get more grip. I also think that if we go longer (in the top tube department) and slacker then it will also help with uphill stability i.e. the front will wander less.

 @SintraFreeride There will always be difference in preferences between riders. There is no way you ride using the same technique and there is no chance your body has the same geometry. Longer arms, shorter legs, different heght etc., all of this apart from the very terrain influences your bike geometry preferences. Not even mentioning about psycholigical aspects. Perhaps you feel safe with slack front. Average slope of region shouldn't influence on head tube angle since there is always a chance of visiting other bikeparks and there is always a need to face even a tiniest uphill even on most radical donwhill bike. Thinking your way to have super slack front riding super slopes is logical, but there is always a possibility of horizontal, or uphill section. Slack also makes it harder to resist landing impacts. Slack means vulnerability to small bumps, but what if there is a flat, hard landing coming up? Walking home with two pieces of frame, if only luck allows you still to walk. I am not saying that slack frames are weak, but it is definitely harder for the fork to manage a vertical impact this way.

 I agree that there is a point where things can get too slack. My bike has a 62.5º HA and it works for the Alpes but I think 64º is slack enough for most types of riding. And yeah I have noticed that my HA is a tad too slack when landing to flatter stuff.

 Lets hope a review comes soon (looking at you PB writers)

 +1. Whats up with the Mattoc? Nothing but radio silence since last August on this fork. Do you guys (PB) even have one under review, or ridden it at all yet?

 I was waiting to get one but couldnt any longer...got a pike instead

 Should be soon. They JUST got the forks for their team riders, so it shouldn't be much longer.

 Speaking from personal experience that bike is the best all rounder I have ever owned. My favorite thing to do with it was take it to the local lift and thrash it on the dh trails, often leaving 5k+ dh rigs in the dust.

 I have a 140mm trail bike and a DH bike but Im wondering if a hardcore hardtail, like the ragley with its forks, and perhaps a Rune with 180 forks would be a better and more fun combo - if you're running 2 mtbs. I reckon Yes. Ideally, I'd have all 4 but....y'know

 ...that blue pig is £265 on CRC with a 66.5 HA. Wow - that's the nuts

 I use the older type X9 with boxed gusset and its an absolute beast! Just when you think your gunna die it ends up saving your life

 I picked up a on-one 456 steel hardtail and cannot believe how much I have enjoyed riding it. My 6" travel bike is getting dusty. Back in the day, I had rigid hardtails and never thought I would go back. Somehow the steel provides a bit of cushion, and the geometry rocks.

 same. im running the medium pins in the middle and the long pins no the leading and trailing edges. was difficult at first to figure out how to readjust but now its second nature. with my 510's, it would take a land mine to get my feet off the pedals.

 I've only got a couple days in them. I haven't figured out readjusting yet. Does the longer pins on the edges actually add more grip or do you just do it to get the concave feeling?

 I've found it does both. The longer pins are so much longer that you definitely get a concave feeling, but it also helps grip, making it much harder to readjust foot position.

 Another vote for those pedals, need a second set for the other bikes... right now I just switch them between. running medium pins at the edges, flat in the middle. Haven't felt like I needed anything more.

 I tried that setup as well but didn't feel secure enough for my tastes. Definitely the best pedal I have used. I got them at the beginning of last year and have a full season on them, truly fantastic. If they weren't so heavy and expensive I would be considering them for my current trail bike build.

 I didn't think the cost was all the bad, compared to what other high end pedals cost anyway.

 I'd rather not think about that: when I can regularly pick up a set of decent or better DH cranks on sale for less than a set of pedals, there's a problem with this picture.

 They can be found decently cheap on the internet, I bought mine at my LBS and got screwed on the price.

 I haven't seen them online for less than $110. I bought some Descendant cranks online a month ago for $99. and you can get Race Face Chesters for less than that any day of the week.

 I paid $150 for mine >:0 my LBS ordered them for me without my actual knowing, and then I felt obligated. They did that with a chain guide as well but I smartened up. Haven't bought anything at a bike shop since. I just got some Gravity Light cranks with BB for $70 shipped off eBay, brand new in the box LOL

 I always think that people who advocate buying local have GOOD local bike shops. The sad truth is, there's a lot of scumbags in bike retail, and it can be hard to find a good shop.

 I thought the same thing @ pm148 , for around $1000 to get into DH is a great starting point

 thats probably in pounds... so closer to 1800 dollars.

 i23 are approved almost 2 years and not a dent or bent

 They're the same width as the i23, just lighter. A bunch of local guys rocked them at Dville over all the rocks and they held up fine. If you have the money get the KOMs and if not the i23 rims are great.

 My dad cracked his frequency i23 going over a 6" drop. Kinda funny as I raced d-ville on the same rim and it was fine.

 Any noticeable difference in stiffness?

 I completely agree, looks almost exactly the same frame. I've just bought a Dominer 2, can't wait for it to be delivered!

 I had a mogul and could not get rid of it fast enough the large frame size was way too small ,the wheel base also too short, head angle felt steep and twitchy,play developed in the linkage after one hard week in the mountains, To be fair it did feel plush on the back end but the bike felt twitchy at speed

 haha thanks thats what i was wondering, tobad, looks like a alright package at first

 Yes they do

 And rad-er

 Manuals will make you funner.

 Feel free to post rad footage of guys manualling in race runs.

 They manual over stuff all the time dosnt have to be a long one to be a manual

 If one could not manual, then one could not race

 Check out gee athertons race run at MSA, longest power wheelie into manual I've seen at that level! Most decent riders manual through rocks or root sections. Or compressions.

 Nearly every race DH run ever will have a manual hidden in there somewhere. Normally in some techy wooded section with no cameras.......

 Yeah but you're talking about unweighting the front for a second. If you can't do that on this bike you shouldn't be racing.

 Just like I said it dosnt have to be a long manual for it to be a manual ask any pro

 Ask any racer. Any real racer. It don't matter if you manual for an inch or a mile. A manual's a manual.

 all build and "designed" at the same factory in china so why should they have any difference - I guess you can add Norco and other "manufacturers" as well.

 Yeah Who cares they have different tubing and suspension curves. They look the same do they are the same. Good Logic sherlock

 As the man above says, who cares if they don't in fact all come out of the same factory (or indeed country), don't have the same designers, don't have the same tech, tubing or suspension characteristic... Ad infinitum.
A Toyota GT86 and a Ferrari 599 look the same or similar to some (my mother, for example), by that logic I guess they must have indentical parts, tech, assembly line and designers....

 I hear its for the serious weight weenies

 Forever rolling and probably the best on the planet.

 One kidney? No. Two? Yup! Good luck ridin then, though..

 *Mojo

 You're an idiot..it's obviously magic

 that tyre looks like my fresh Muddy Mary in my garage.

 The important thing is the stiffness and softness of the casing and knobs. The Vigilante grips like velcro and is long lasting at the same time.

 Care to explain that? It's a super short trail stem with a 35mm clamp diameter, a hollowed out faceplate, and a completely different design at the steerer end. To top it all off, it weighs as much as a gnat's bollock. So in reality, it's nothing like an old hope stem!

 My explanation is this- it bloody looks like it!! Ok so they drilled out the faceplate whilst Hope machined a section to put their logo. The 35mm clamp size didn't exist back then so that point is kinda bollox. The hope stem weighed next to nothing too.

www.sicklines.com/gallery/data/532/2007-Hope-stem.jpg