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Review: Wolf Tooth Components Ripsaw Aluminum Flat Pedals

May 24, 2024
by Jessie-May Morgan  
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Wolf Tooth Components have added a new flat pedal offering to their range, named the Ripsaw. Thin at the edges and with a pronounced convex profile, it sits in stark contrast to the Waveform, the equivalently-priced but thicker, concave option. While concave pedals are by far the most common design, allowing one's foot to sink into the center portion and forcing the pins to bite into the rubber as it does so, some appreciate the benefits of a convex profile. Wolf Tooth state that the Ripsaw is designed for riders who prefer a mid-foot riding position, where the ball of the foot is in front of the pedal spindle and the arch of the foot aligns with the convex arch in the center of the pedal.

Ripsaw Details
• Weight: 383g (pair)
• Area: (L) 118mm x (W) 102mm
• Front edge thickness: 7mm
• Outboard edge thickness: 12mm
• Thickest Point: 16mm (inboard edge of axle)
• Axle material: Stainless Steel
• Pins per side: 12
• Pin height: 4mm
• Color: Black / Raw Silver / Ultraviolet Purple
• Price: £180 / $199.95 USD
• Five-year warranty
wolftoothcomponents.com

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Details

While the Waveform pedal is available in two sizes, the Ripsaw is one size only - it is 118mm long and 102mm wide. That's slightly longer and slightly narrower than OneUp Components Aluminum pedal (115mm x 105mm). I will compare and contrast the two pedals throughout this review as they are another notably convex option for those that subscribe to the mid-foot position.

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The CNC machined aluminum body accommodates 12 replaceable, rear-loading pins per side. They have a 3mm Allen head and, in all but one case for the most inboard pin, the head is recessed into the pedal body where it is less vulnerable to damage. Unlike the pins on most modern flat pedals, they are threadless. I measure them at 4mm tall. No washers are supplied to shim down the height, but available separately are shorter 3mm pins that one might want to install for various reasons; perhaps along the front and rear edges to maximize the convex profile, or at the center in an attempt to reduce it.

At $199.95 US, the Wolf Tooth Components Ripsaw pedals are some of the most expensive flat pedals on the market that do not have titanium axle. Weighing in at 383 grams for the pair, they are also some of the lightest, heavily machined to give a competitively thin profile that may entice those who ride rock-strewn terrain and are prone to regular pedal strikes.


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At the outboard edge, the convexity measures 2mm (per side)
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The convex profile is accentuated at the inboard edge where it is raised to accommodate the axle

For those interested, the Ripsaw pedals are actually slightly thinner (7mm) than the OneUp pedals at the front and rear edges, which is arguably where it matters most. The difference is 1.3mm, though, so we are absolutely splitting hairs here.

Helping to keep the weight down is a stainless steel axle that does not run the full width of the pedal body. Internally, an Igus bushing and its carrier cartridge, three sealed bearings, a compression washer, and a lip seal keep the pedal body spinning on the axle. Every single component of the Ripsaw pedal is available as a replacement part.

Wolf Tooth pride themselves on that serviceability and the customer's right to repair. The process of completely refreshing the internals does require use of some non-standard tools, however. The refresh kit will set you back $22 USD, with the necessary bushing removal and install tools available for another $22 USD.

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On Trail Performance

For context, my shoe size is a UK 5 (EU 37, US 7). I tested the Wolf Tooth Ripsaw pedals exclusively using my go-to shoes; the FiveTen Freerider Pro. With that combo, almost all pins see some action on the sole of the shoe, with only the more rearward inboard pin left out. Riders with smaller feet may want to consider a pedal with a narrower platform (like the Crankbrothers Stamp 1 Small). I get on well with them myself, but there's no hard and fast rule when it comes to pedal size.

The convex profile is clearly felt underfoot, with a raised bump discernible. The foot-pedal connection was a bit of a mixed bag, and I have some contrasting feelings about the Ripsaw. While the connection doesn't feel the most secure (I'm more accustomed to concave pedals), I actually had no issues with the connection over 3 days riding the Orbea Rise LT on dry, loose, chunky terrain. I got none of that frustrating foot creep - you know, when your foot edges forward on the pedal, millimeter by millimeter - and no discernible discomfort or 'clawing' sensation while riding the rough tracks.

Versus the OneUp Components Aluminum pedal, the Ripsaw would be my preference. That's largely because the Ripsaw lacks the massive inboard bearing bump that you can see on the OneUp pedal. My foot has a tendency to get hung up on that bump at the inboard edge, compromising the connection.

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Credit: Jérémie Reuiller

I can't fault the design for the comfort and level of grip it provides while descending, but I'm not a fan of the feel while climbing. My foot has a tendency to rock front to back while climbing on the Ripsaw pedal, pivoting about the central raised portion. Slight differences in how much my ankle is flexed throughout the pedal stroke can mean that I'm either pushing against the rearward half of the pedal, or the front half of the pedal. The raised central portion is most noticeable while climbing, possibly because one has fewer, and less exciting, distractions. I'm very aware of it, and I found it would bother me on longer rides, with slight discomfort developing under the ball of my foot.

Given that I found the profile less than ideal while climbing, the Wolf Tooth Ripsaw pedals are quite a long way off the top of my list of best flat pedals. They won't be replacing my go-to Crankbrothers Stamp 1 pedals any time soon - a concave, composite option that is notably more affordable at $59.99 USD.

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Durability

I put in around ten rides on these pedals, on various enduro bikes and eMTBs, around half of which were in wet, muddy conditions. After seven rides, one of them developed a small, but nevertheless detectable, amount of play between the axle and body. It is less than 1mm, and I can't feel it while riding. A few rides later, the other pedal developed this play, too.

I opened up one of the pedals to inspect the internals. There's little evidence of grime getting past the seal, but a rusted outer race on one of the cartridge bearings demonstrates water ingress. The bearings are still spinning very smoothly, however. The bushing appears to be seated inside its carrier as intended. I reassembled the pedal, tightening the retainer nut onto the end of the axle, and the cartridge into the pedal body to the specified torque values. Checking for play once more, I can confirm it is still present.

On this issue, Wolf Tooth have stated that they are yet to experience any such issues with the Ripsaw pedals. We are told that if a customer were to experience this issue, Wolf Tooth Components would either issue them with a replacement set of pedals under warranty, or supply a refresh kit free of charge.

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Pros

+ Lightweight
+ Five-year warranty
+ Thin profile offers good ground clearance
+ Good grip while descending



Cons

- Very expensive
- Convex profile can become distracting and uncomfortable on long climbs
- Could be too narrow for riders with feet larger than UK 7 (US 9.5)





Pinkbike's Take
bigquotesThe Wolf Tooth Ripsaw flat pedals are a thin, relatively lightweight option for gram-counting riders that are concerned with ground clearance. The pronounced convex profile offers uncompromised grip for a consistent foot-pedal connection while descending, but the raised central portion can be distracting and a little uncomfortable during a long climb. At $199.95 USD, they are not inexpensive, and I would have expected a great many more play-free rides out of them for that money.
Jessie-May Morgan


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87 Comments
  • 40 2
 So, odd shape, bit uncomfortable, not very durable and expensive. Sounds ideal.
  • 5 0
 The marketing team says you're hired
  • 66 31
 CONVEX PEDALS - Don't waste your money on them, they are all trash compared to a flat or concave profile. Even if it's just a bump near the edge you are going to feel it and once you notice it you can't un-notice it.
  • 15 2
 Ehn. I've had great luck with Canfield Crampons of various generations for years. Thin, grippy, convex... I got a good deal on a set of WT Waveforms, and they're my favorite pedals - look good, grip great, easy to service.
  • 6 0
 I have used both and I have found that I prefer the canfield brother crampons (convex) to any other flat pedal I have tried. I have tried the stamps, nukeproof horizon, one up composites (which are great for the price), diety Tmacs, and a few others.
  • 6 4
 Yep arch support should come from the shoe, not the pedal. Concave is where it’s at.
  • 13 1
 I don't think it's that simple. I prefer concave, but I think some folks appreciate the benefits of convex. It's worth noting that Wolf Tooth makes a concave option too, and they tick a lot of the boxes for me: www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/pedals/products/waveform-aluminum-pedals

Still very, very expensive.
  • 2 2
 You may want to think about how a shoe deforms when downward pressure is applied over a platform that is narrower than a shoe is long.
  • 9 0
 @Glenngineer: I've tried a lot of different pedals over the last 20 years and the Canfield's feel the best to me. I've had a few pairs of them at this point and I find I prefer the feel of these over anything else I've tried over the years. Apparently most people prefer a concave design over convex though. To each their own I suppose.
  • 1 0
 @brianpark: Nice looking pedal but as you say CAD320 is very expensive considering there are so many great options available out there.
  • 15 6
 This is a pretty dumb take. If you place a higher value on maximum efficiency, you'll get more value out of a concave or flat pedal that rewards placing the ball of your foot over the axle. XC, roadie, trail, enduro - disciplines tend to favor this. If you place a higher value on ankle stability and reducing leverage on your ankle, you might like an arch over axle approach where the convex pedal works better. Maybe you come from a moto background, have bad ankles, spend all your time at bike parks riding DH, or on dirt jumps. There's a lot of pedal options out there for the first set of riders. There's not a lot for the second group. That's okay that they're not your preference. Stop assuming that you're the only customer in the world. Hell wolf tooth even makes a pedal FOR you and riders like you. And get busy taking a hike when it comes to shit that's clearly not designed for you. This may come as a surprise, but you are not god's gift to mankind and you are not the only rider in the world, nor are your riding preferences the only ones that matter. Options like this are dope, even if a large majority of riders prefer a flat or concave option over this.
  • 2 1
 @William42: I heard about placing middle of the foot over the axle but cannot imagine how you can ride like that, it feels soooo wrong, I tried and just could not pump the bike like this.
  • 3 0
 @lkubica: Everyone has their own preference on how they like their feet positioned on the pedal. Some people like the pedal in the middle of their arch. Some people like the spindle centered under the ball of their foot. Personally, I prefer the spindle to be where the ball of my foot and arch meet. And I prefer convex pedals. Because it almost feels like the balls of my feet hook the spindle when I drop my heels. Which feels like like it give me the most control on downhills. I couldn't care less about the pedaling aspect, cuz if it's even remotely steep uphill I'm usually walking anyhow.
  • 5 0
 @IMeasureStuff pick a pedal profile and be a dick about it?
  • 1 0
 @Glenngineer: did you ride the original crampons? nearly flat front to back with the bearing/bushing bumps side to side to make it feel concave-ish. Kinda felt like the shape of a pringle. Loved em, favorite pedals ever, bushings are completely worn away so mine have tons of slop now.
  • 19 4
 Wolf Tooth HAS likely experienced this issue and isn’t commenting on it. That would mean they’re admitting a fault and bike companies really hate doing that. Please see: Evil chainstays, Fox X2, Deity TMACs, One Up alu peds, Rockshox Reverb, Rockshox steerer tubes, Rockshox SID bushings, Fox Transfer, Shimsno brakes. I could go on all day shoddy, inconsistent quality on expensive toys.

But hey, $200 pedals! Eat your heart out.
  • 7 2
 Yeah-the reluctance of bike companies to admit fault (when it's their fault) is a load of BS. If your product has a problem, own up and do a recall!! Don't send out half-baked equipment-take more time beta testing.
  • 4 0
 Wait TMAC's have issues? I love mine, never had a problem with them and I've owned 2 sets (first set I sold on my old Top Fuel after 6 months), second set is still running strong after over a year. I guess one time one pedal spun a little slower than the other, but now that the grease has thinned out they are perfect!
  • 3 0
 @RadJekyll: TMAC pedals had an issue where the platform would come off the spindle. Even happened to a personal set of mine. I believe they’ve corrected the problem as my new set has been great and hasn’t come loose. But it was a “case by case basis” and never a recall. I got mine warrantied
  • 2 0
 @RadJekyll: they had a bad batch. But these days, Deftraps are a better, cheaper TMac. Top loading pins are a hard no in the land of very sharp rocks.
  • 15 0
 I miss the days of $79 (CAD) original Kona Wah Wah pedals. Still my favorite pedals.
  • 8 1
 Try Deftraps
  • 3 0
 Send an email to the new old owners, they seem pretty cool
  • 3 0
 right! man, i had a set of those for the longest time! so long i don't even remember where i got them, haha! just one set that would transfer between my mtb, and BMX.... ahh, good times
  • 1 0
 @wyorider: yup plastic deftraps are wah wahs evolved. Except when they savage the back of your calf or shins, somehow the pins get sharper with use.
  • 15 0
 **Spits Coffee** $199!!!
  • 13 3
 One up Composites all the way!! i was unsure of composite pedals but after two years of hard riding they are still flawless. rebuild kits are cheap, grip is great and at $50 ish CAD the value is hard to match.
  • 3 1
 They must be better than Deity composite pedals…my Deity deftrap pedals had completely unusable pin holes after a few weeks of riding. Thankfully my friend gave me a pair of Chromag AL pedals since they were red and didn’t match any of his bikes!!!
  • 4 0
 I used to recomend OneUp composites to anyone who would listen.....Then got a pair of CB Stamp 7's. there is a very big difference between them. The Stamp 7's are fantastic, give them a try
  • 3 0
 Great pedals. I really appreciate the muted feel of a nylon pedal when you smashing on a rock, less clang, more 'thunk,' just not as disruptive to your pedal stroke. They're cheap, colorful, grippy and as far as I can tell last forever... I've had mine for 5 years or so, not crazy miles but plenty of shit weather on the fat bike, and they're completely fine, just battle scarred.
  • 3 1
 After shattering three bodies and bending one axle I am not really sure I would recommend them to anyone. They grip well, but rocks are their nemessis.
  • 4 0
 I've smashed my composites (OneUp and RF) on rocks lots, they're tough, and composite has better grip than alu where the pins aren't. I don't even have pins in my RF pedals. Composite can be strong.
  • 1 0
 I splurged and got the titanium spindle upgrade for my oneup composites, all in its around $100 for nearly the lightest flats available.
  • 1 0
 @Brave1i1toaster: any chance they offer a titanium axle for the aluminum body also ? I’d be game for a couple pairs if so.
Thanks
  • 1 0
 @Crankhed: Yeah they have AL spindle options. I got mine off of ebay, search "oneup titanium" and it should be the first thing that pops up.
Enjoy!
  • 6 0
 Someone will inevitably come on here talking about how convex is better for people who pedal more mid-foot, and concave is better for the people who pedal more on the balls of their feet.

Just two or three weeks ago, there was a video here about how it was better to place your cleats way back so you can pedal more mid-foot, and everyone was on board with that. Have the “concave is better because I pedal on the balls of my feet” crowd met up with the “mid-foot is better so I shove the cleats back” crowd and settled things yet?
  • 4 0
 The farthest back cleat position on my shoes is nowhere near where I’d consider mid foot…but I wear a size 14, maybe it’s more midfoot for the little guys.
  • 4 0
 its an interesting debate, convex vs concave. Its hard for most (ball of foot riders) to understand how you can pedal on convex pedals....
like people who face the shower head when rinsing their hair, and those that face away, you dont even know the other type of person exists...
  • 5 1
 @onawalk: I understand how they pedal, just don't understand why you would consider that optimal haha. Remove plantar flexion from your ankle and try to jump from a standing position vs having plantar flexion and jumping. One jump will always have more power.
  • 2 0
 Theres also the pedalling innovation catalyst pedals. They work a treat for people with ankle issues and various foot injuries.
  • 4 2
 @MI-Corey: If we are talking about static jumping, in a controlled environment, absolutely, but thats not what I'm doing on my bike. When I'm jumping, I'm also concerned with stability, landing, and everything else. I'm also concerned with cornening, and weighting the bike, and climbing, and....I dont tend to move my foot around between jumping and the next feature, so I might sacrifice a small amount of power in the jump (but honestly, its pretty small, and I've got a lip to assist) for a more (to me) secure, sure footed connection.

Youre also relying on strong ankle joints, muscles, and ROM, which vary greatly, and can be some of the most common injuries in athletes, putting them in a more vunerable position.

When I think of riding a dirt bike, I dont stand on the pegs on the ball of my foot either
  • 3 0
 Balls of the feet? Mid-foot? Amateurs. Heel pedaling all the way!
  • 4 0
 @FaahkEet: its the new "flat brake levers"!
  • 2 0
 @MI-Corey: Exactly my thoughts back then when they published that video. Now I’m riding convex flats, and I’m thinking maybe they’re on to something. They’re pretty comfortable, I hardly notice I’m not clipped in, and there’s a lot more stability in corners. BUT… there are times when I’m grinding up climbs where I feel like I need to be on the balls of my feet.
  • 2 1
 @onawalk: static yes but not static as well. Try to dunk a basketball with your ankle immobilized. Someone who can dunk will barely be able to touch the net. Try going for a run with your ankle immobilized. It just doesn't make sense. I get that you can do it, but I don't know why you would choose to do it. I ruptured some stuff in my ankle at one point and had to ride mid foot for nearly a year. Was absolutely terrible. You lack the ability to make minor adjustments when in a manual, you can't reach for landings etc. To each their own and I don't care how other people want to ride. If you enjoy standing on your heels go for it. Just from a biomechanical standpoint I don't get it. To your point of ankle joints being a common injurie that's true but it's usually pronation or supination movements creating that injury. Rarely is it plantar flexion or dorsiflexion like ET3's season ender last year.
  • 3 1
 @MI-Corey: like we are talking an inch difference, I think youre making a bigger deal about it than necessary. I use my legs to push for manuals, not my ankles, I have much better fine moto control over my quads, than my ankles, its possible you differ. Im not saying youre doing anything wrong, and that sentiment should be vice versa.
We arent built the same, dont have the same experiences, injuries, etc, why do you or anyone else believe we should all be doing the same things?

The switch for me from ball to mid foot, was great, I'm more secure in corners, landings, rough trails, etc. I dont find a loss of power in jumps, or climbing, so it has a net benefit for me
  • 6 0
 I’ve been using the Ripsaws for about 5 weeks now and I really appreciate what they do for me. So I tend to move my foot around using the ball of my foot for climbing and then slide up just a little bit for more mid foot placement for downhill and impacts. I would like to think this is normal for most flat pedal riders out there but maybe it’s just me. With those Waveforms which are concave, I often found myself in some bad foot placement situations using mainly the upper ball of my foot when landing large drops and jumps. I know, believe me you just have to be aware and conscious but naturally the ball of my foot would always fall into place and I always had to make a conscious effort to move my placement more mid foot to absorb and stabilize more of the impacts. I never got hurt or anything but when you take a decent impact on the balls of your feet you know it and feel it! This is the first time I’ve ever tried a convex design and it really does make planting your foot more mid position a more natural occurrence. Just saying! So call it marketing or whatever but it seems to have solved one of my main concerns. I also find when climbing and using more of the balls of my feet. It’s just a little bit easier to lift and reposition and not so locked in when you really don’t need to be. To each there own I guess! So far overall I’m a fan and I love the convex design, pin integration, rounded edges, and Wold Tooth dependability.
  • 6 0
 When I look at how my pedals look after a year on the trails, I'd rather not invest too much money in them. It's all so out of touch with the prices.
  • 7 0
 Nothing beats the Nukeproof horizons! Well used too!
  • 3 0
 « the Ripsaw is one size only - it is 118mm long and 102mm wide. That's slightly shorter and slightly narrower than OneUp Components Aluminum pedal (115mm x 105mm) ». Mmmh, that would be slightly LONGER and narrower, @jessiemaymorgan
  • 3 0
 Hilarious to read about people's reactionary take on convex pedals. OneUp have their composite pedals on sale for $35 right now, which makes the cost of convex experimentation more palatable. I have two rides on my Ripsaw's and love them.
  • 5 3
 Those look wrong in sooo many ways. I know there’s some weird deviants out there who like a convex pedal but that one looks like it tilts your foot off the side too.

Just getting stuck into my newly acquired praxis podiums. Now there’s a good pedal!
  • 6 0
 The Praxis Podiums are badass.

They’re so good that I just got a second set to put on my other bike.
  • 2 0
 Oh wow, had no idea someone started making them again. Been a long time fan of these and was bummed when I couldn't get new ones.
  • 1 0
 @Nobble: yeah, I’ll be replacing pedals on my other bikes with em as time goes by. My new favourite pedals
  • 1 0
 @WheelandBlade: bigger and more concave with m4 pins. Banging!
  • 2 0
 "My foot has a tendency to rock front to back while climbing on the Ripsaw pedal, pivoting about the central raised portion."

I think that has more to do with the raised portion than the convex factor. Many flat or slightly concave pedals have an axle bump that will cause the same rocking. And even very concave pedals with a bump feel terrible and make the central pins much less effective.

The best pedals, concave or convex, have no bump and thus no rocking and full pin utilization. Bumps are bad no matter the curve.
  • 2 0
 I had oneup composites which were great for durability but I was always looking for the right spot on the pedals to hold my foot with the concave profile. Grip was fine but it just never felt great.
I then picked up a set of deftraps last winter which felt better with the concave profile and had better grip, if maybe a touch small for my size 47 2fos. Those lasted about 10 rides before one pedal broke in half on a rock strike that the oneups would have shaken off. I think they don't have enough material for hard riding. Deity sold me crash replacements and I gave them to my mother in law who doesn't ride aggressively.
Now I have a set of daggas and all I can say is why did I wait so long, so much better with a nice big slightly concave platform and all of the grip (I pulled the axle pins out).
  • 1 0
 On the flip side, I’ve smashed my deftraps into enough rocks at speed that they’re almost convex in places and they’re going strong. Maybe it’s a bad batch?
  • 2 0
 I’ve had a set on my bike for 5 weeks, roughly 150 miles per week, no issues with spindle play.

Ive been riding one up aluminum pedals for two years (not without issues), I like the larger width of the one up pedals and the non tapered front edge. That being said I haven’t put them back on.

The WT don’t feel as locked in as one ups, but I also don’t have issues with my feet slipping. I wear vans (waffle soles fir-ever) and pedal with my foot wherever feels comfortable at the time, but less often with the ball of my foot.

Like most things, they aren’t for everyone
  • 2 0
 I don't buy expensive flat pedals any more. For me, in North Van wet/grime most of the year, cheap or expensive, they ALL develop axle play that doesn't seem to improve (much or at all) with a rebuild.

I've tried so many it's no longer worth it. I run OneUp composites, which also develop play in the same timeframe, but only cost 1/4 the price of the others. As a bonus, they're also lighter.
  • 3 0
 As a convex die-hard who runs Canfield Crampons on all my bikes I am looking forward to trying these out. Can we stop having concave-loving ball-foot riders review convex pedals?
  • 4 3
 Remember when Canfield crampons were the only convex pedal? I tried them and couldn’t stand the convex shape. Despite the obvious upside to such a narrow leading edge my feet stick so much better on concave or even flat pedals. Plus $200 for pedals is insane unless they have titanium axles (which I still wouldn’t buy).
  • 2 0
 Threaded pins, IME, hook up to the shoe tread much better. Downsides to that too of course. Difficulty removing bent pins, potential to strip pedal body removing deformed pins or damaged pin threads.
  • 8 5
 I'll be the devil's advocate and say convex is good, not that I would buy these. Love the PNW pedals, don't have pain nor do my feet slip
  • 9 0
 Yeah, I have some Canfield Crampon Ultimates. I have zero complaints regarding comfort or grip. Maybe convex isn’t for everyone, but so far, so good for me.
  • 1 0
 Too bad Wolftooth didn't just either redesign or add a wider Q-factor option of their Wavform pedals. They are a really nice premium pedal but I hate my ankle knob bone hitting against my crankarm. To me, these Ripsaws just seem really off from WT's usual standard, but to each their own.
  • 1 0
 I need a nice chamfer on the leading edge. Pedal strikes are my nemesis and a little angle saved my life more than once. I found the Spank Spoon is just right. Micro adjustments to foot placement is just as vital as overall grip and they have eaten the abuse hungry for more.
  • 1 0
 I have both waveforms and ripsaws and will be taking the ripsaws off and putting the waveforms back on permanently. I feel opposite of the pb reviewer. I prefer the ripsaw when climbing and the waveform when descending. And since I climb in order to descend the waveforms are the pedals for me.
  • 5 2
 I think ill stick with my deity deftraps.
  • 5 2
 Why is the bike industry failing again?
  • 2 0
 I envy the people who can just drop $200+tax on pedals. Do these ever go on sale?!
  • 1 0
 Yes - I grabbed some WT Waveforms, the concave siblings to these pedals, last year off WT's scratch and dent page with a coupon code for ~$125 US out the door. I couldn't tell you why they were scratch and dent, they look flawless to me and they're only getting more scratched and more dented on the trails, so...
  • 1 0
 Why does foot size never make it to the convo with this pedal discussion? I have size 13 and I like convex pedals. It just makes sense if you have big yams.
  • 3 1
 Deftraps set the bar, these don't come close.
  • 2 0
 DMR Vault all the way for Europeans.
  • 1 0
 Dmr v11 are far better. Half the price, same internals and shape, replaceable pin nuts so you don't rip a pin out and damage the thread, plastic doesn't hang up on rocks, and they don't look scruffy after 1 ride. I went through 5 sets of vaults and every single one was missing at least one pin where it couldn't be replaced because the threaded hole was damaged.
  • 1 0
 Ok they are around 200 USD as well but a proven top dog in every test they're part of.
  • 1 0
 Stamp 7 with the edge pins switched to 2mm longer ones. Nothing compares in grip!
  • 1 0
 It's so obvious that it is meant for dentist. You see the name. wolf + tooth.
  • 1 0
 Wild that 'rusted and developed play requiring warranty after 7 riders' didn't make it into the list of cons.
  • 1 0
 I love some convex pedals but that price. Damn.
  • 1 2
 I think you call any man with less than size 7 shoes a midget so these are extremely niche
  • 1 4
 They already made a pedal that works, this is a exercise in marketing and its turned out to be rather shit.
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