Wolf Tooth Components have added a new flat pedal offering to their range, named the Ripsaw. Thin at the edges and with a pronounced convex profile, it sits in stark contrast to the Waveform, the equivalently-priced but thicker, concave option. While concave pedals are by far the most common design, allowing one's foot to sink into the center portion and forcing the pins to bite into the rubber as it does so, some appreciate the benefits of a convex profile. Wolf Tooth state that the Ripsaw is designed for riders who prefer a mid-foot riding position, where the ball of the foot is in front of the pedal spindle and the arch of the foot aligns with the convex arch in the center of the pedal.
Ripsaw Details• Weight: 383g (pair)
• Area: (L) 118mm x (W) 102mm
• Front edge thickness: 7mm
• Outboard edge thickness: 12mm
• Thickest Point: 16mm (inboard edge of axle)
• Axle material: Stainless Steel
• Pins per side: 12
• Pin height: 4mm
• Color: Black / Raw Silver / Ultraviolet Purple
• Price: £180 / $199.95 USD
• Five-year warranty
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wolftoothcomponents.com DetailsWhile the Waveform pedal is available in two sizes, the Ripsaw is one size only - it is 118mm long and 102mm wide. That's slightly longer and slightly narrower than OneUp Components Aluminum pedal (115mm x 105mm). I will compare and contrast the two pedals throughout this review as they are another notably convex option for those that subscribe to the mid-foot position.
The CNC machined aluminum body accommodates 12 replaceable, rear-loading pins per side. They have a 3mm Allen head and, in all but one case for the most inboard pin, the head is recessed into the pedal body where it is less vulnerable to damage. Unlike the pins on most modern flat pedals, they are threadless. I measure them at 4mm tall. No washers are supplied to shim down the height, but available separately are shorter 3mm pins that one might want to install for various reasons; perhaps along the front and rear edges to maximize the convex profile, or at the center in an attempt to reduce it.
At $199.95 US, the Wolf Tooth Components Ripsaw pedals are some of the most expensive flat pedals on the market that do not have titanium axle. Weighing in at 383 grams for the pair, they are also some of the lightest, heavily machined to give a competitively thin profile that may entice those who ride rock-strewn terrain and are prone to regular pedal strikes.
For those interested, the Ripsaw pedals are actually slightly thinner (7mm) than the OneUp pedals at the front and rear edges, which is arguably where it matters most. The difference is 1.3mm, though, so we are absolutely splitting hairs here.
Helping to keep the weight down is a stainless steel axle that does not run the full width of the pedal body. Internally, an Igus bushing and its carrier cartridge, three sealed bearings, a compression washer, and a lip seal keep the pedal body spinning on the axle. Every single component of the Ripsaw pedal is available as a replacement part.
Wolf Tooth pride themselves on that serviceability and the customer's right to repair. The process of completely refreshing the internals does require use of some non-standard tools, however. The refresh kit will set you back $22 USD, with the necessary bushing removal and install tools available for another $22 USD.
On Trail PerformanceFor context, my shoe size is a UK 5 (EU 37, US 7). I tested the Wolf Tooth Ripsaw pedals exclusively using my go-to shoes; the FiveTen Freerider Pro. With that combo, almost all pins see some action on the sole of the shoe, with only the more rearward inboard pin left out. Riders with smaller feet may want to consider a pedal with a narrower platform (like the Crankbrothers Stamp 1 Small). I get on well with them myself, but there's no hard and fast rule when it comes to pedal size.
The convex profile is clearly felt underfoot, with a raised bump discernible. The foot-pedal connection was a bit of a mixed bag, and I have some contrasting feelings about the Ripsaw. While the connection doesn't feel the most secure (I'm more accustomed to concave pedals), I actually had no issues with the connection over 3 days riding the Orbea Rise LT on dry, loose, chunky terrain. I got none of that frustrating foot creep - you know, when your foot edges forward on the pedal, millimeter by millimeter - and no discernible discomfort or 'clawing' sensation while riding the rough tracks.
Versus the OneUp Components Aluminum pedal, the Ripsaw would be my preference. That's largely because the Ripsaw lacks the massive inboard bearing bump that you can see on the OneUp pedal. My foot has a tendency to get hung up on that bump at the inboard edge, compromising the connection.
I can't fault the design for the comfort and level of grip it provides while descending, but I'm not a fan of the feel while climbing. My foot has a tendency to rock front to back while climbing on the Ripsaw pedal, pivoting about the central raised portion. Slight differences in how much my ankle is flexed throughout the pedal stroke can mean that I'm either pushing against the rearward half of the pedal, or the front half of the pedal. The raised central portion is most noticeable while climbing, possibly because one has fewer, and less exciting, distractions. I'm very aware of it, and I found it would bother me on longer rides, with slight discomfort developing under the ball of my foot.
Given that I found the profile less than ideal while climbing, the Wolf Tooth Ripsaw pedals are quite a long way off the top of my list of best flat pedals. They won't be replacing my go-to Crankbrothers Stamp 1 pedals any time soon - a concave, composite option that is notably more affordable at $59.99 USD.
DurabilityI put in around ten rides on these pedals, on various enduro bikes and eMTBs, around half of which were in wet, muddy conditions. After seven rides, one of them developed a small, but nevertheless detectable, amount of play between the axle and body. It is less than 1mm, and I can't feel it while riding. A few rides later, the other pedal developed this play, too.
I opened up one of the pedals to inspect the internals. There's little evidence of grime getting past the seal, but a rusted outer race on one of the cartridge bearings demonstrates water ingress. The bearings are still spinning very smoothly, however. The bushing appears to be seated inside its carrier as intended. I reassembled the pedal, tightening the retainer nut onto the end of the axle, and the cartridge into the pedal body to the specified torque values. Checking for play once more, I can confirm it is still present.
On this issue, Wolf Tooth have stated that they are yet to experience any such issues with the Ripsaw pedals. We are told that if a customer were to experience this issue, Wolf Tooth Components would either issue them with a replacement set of pedals under warranty, or supply a refresh kit free of charge.
Pros
+ Lightweight
+ Five-year warranty
+ Thin profile offers good ground clearance
+ Good grip while descending
Cons
- Very expensive
- Convex profile can become distracting and uncomfortable on long climbs
- Could be too narrow for riders with feet larger than UK 7 (US 9.5)
Pinkbike's Take![bigquotes](https://es.pinkbike.org/246/sprt/i/bigquotes-left.svg) | The Wolf Tooth Ripsaw flat pedals are a thin, relatively lightweight option for gram-counting riders that are concerned with ground clearance. The pronounced convex profile offers uncompromised grip for a consistent foot-pedal connection while descending, but the raised central portion can be distracting and a little uncomfortable during a long climb. At $199.95 USD, they are not inexpensive, and I would have expected a great many more play-free rides out of them for that money. —Jessie-May Morgan |
Still very, very expensive.
But hey, $200 pedals! Eat your heart out.
Thanks
Enjoy!
Just two or three weeks ago, there was a video here about how it was better to place your cleats way back so you can pedal more mid-foot, and everyone was on board with that. Have the “concave is better because I pedal on the balls of my feet” crowd met up with the “mid-foot is better so I shove the cleats back” crowd and settled things yet?
like people who face the shower head when rinsing their hair, and those that face away, you dont even know the other type of person exists...
Youre also relying on strong ankle joints, muscles, and ROM, which vary greatly, and can be some of the most common injuries in athletes, putting them in a more vunerable position.
When I think of riding a dirt bike, I dont stand on the pegs on the ball of my foot either
We arent built the same, dont have the same experiences, injuries, etc, why do you or anyone else believe we should all be doing the same things?
The switch for me from ball to mid foot, was great, I'm more secure in corners, landings, rough trails, etc. I dont find a loss of power in jumps, or climbing, so it has a net benefit for me
Just getting stuck into my newly acquired praxis podiums. Now there’s a good pedal!
They’re so good that I just got a second set to put on my other bike.
I think that has more to do with the raised portion than the convex factor. Many flat or slightly concave pedals have an axle bump that will cause the same rocking. And even very concave pedals with a bump feel terrible and make the central pins much less effective.
The best pedals, concave or convex, have no bump and thus no rocking and full pin utilization. Bumps are bad no matter the curve.
I then picked up a set of deftraps last winter which felt better with the concave profile and had better grip, if maybe a touch small for my size 47 2fos. Those lasted about 10 rides before one pedal broke in half on a rock strike that the oneups would have shaken off. I think they don't have enough material for hard riding. Deity sold me crash replacements and I gave them to my mother in law who doesn't ride aggressively.
Now I have a set of daggas and all I can say is why did I wait so long, so much better with a nice big slightly concave platform and all of the grip (I pulled the axle pins out).
Ive been riding one up aluminum pedals for two years (not without issues), I like the larger width of the one up pedals and the non tapered front edge. That being said I haven’t put them back on.
The WT don’t feel as locked in as one ups, but I also don’t have issues with my feet slipping. I wear vans (waffle soles fir-ever) and pedal with my foot wherever feels comfortable at the time, but less often with the ball of my foot.
Like most things, they aren’t for everyone
I've tried so many it's no longer worth it. I run OneUp composites, which also develop play in the same timeframe, but only cost 1/4 the price of the others. As a bonus, they're also lighter.
you're welcome
Most? The ones you're comparing them to have similar pins. About half the pedals of the dozen-ish recently featured or mentioned on PB have grub screws, and half of the remaining back-mounted ones are threadless.
Saying "most are threaded" misses the fact that "most" of those threaded ones are grub screws, which are always fully threaded, and have a much different feel that any back-mounted ones, whether threadless or not.