Setting up the suspension is easy. Like many Horst-Link designs, it can be configured hard or soft and still manage to deliver a balanced ride. Sag settings close to 25-percent on the fork and shock did the trick (the T-130 has 130 millimeters of wheel travel on both ends), and I found that the bike was happier with slightly faster low-speed rebound values than I usually prefer. The suspension feels firm in the mid-stroke, so it pedals well without damping aids, and it maintains its ride height well under braking. Conversely, with so much support in the mid-stroke, the Whyte lets its rider know what's going on beneath the wheels, but a rougher ride is a compromise one must be willing to accept to enjoy the livelier, more responsive feel that a technically adept chassis with minimal suspension travel can deliver.
Technical report:
As advertised, the Whyte T-130's carbon chassis is truly next-gen: Light weight and spirited in the pedaling department, with a generously long cockpit and gravity inspired geometry, it rolls silently, and its component selection leaves little to desired - at a very attractive MSRP.
Spoiler alert: Its replacement, the 2017 T-130 Works, has recently been announced, and will feature the same chassis, but equipped with a full SRAM ensemble, including Eagle 12-speed and RockShox suspension. Priced at $6,499 USD, however, it is also a bit more expensive. Choose the 2016 or 2017 model, either way, you are sure to get a great trailbike. Here is how the 2016 model's components stacked up:
Internal seatpost clamp: Good idea on paper, with a rubber seal up top and no seat tube slot to attract water and muck, an internal clamp makes sense for any mountain bike. The bad news is that the clamp's internal wedges puts localized pressure on the RockShox dropper seatpost and binds the mechanism. Back the pressure off and the post can slide into the frame over time. I found a happy medium, but it was a bother.
Whyte Carbon Tubeless wheels: Good feeling wheelset. Not overly stiff and the spoke tension held up for an extended review period. The 30-millimeter inside width turned the Maxxis High Roller II tread profiles into cornering and climbing carnivores. The quick engagement freehub was an added bonus.
Internal cable plugs: Bit of a nitpick here, but one of the bike's selling points was that its chassis was well sealed. The rubber plugs intended to protect the cable and hose entries fell out repeatedly until I rammed them into place with a seal pick and some glue. The culprit seemed to be that the grooves in the plugs are narrower than the thickness of the frame.
Not found! wtf
"It climbs easily... and it is brave enough to demonstrate how deep you can go into the abyss with only 130 mm of suspension travel."
Nah - let's talk new acronyms and proprietary parts which make no discernible different in ride quality.
@tehllama i am definitely a proponent of building rear ends to suit each size, but manufacturers know that would cost $$ much easier to say a chainstay length of 420 is perfect if you're 5' or 6'5. In this regard, liteville is on the money!
as RC mentions, just comes down to the steepness of your climbs. I'm sure on fire roads in california a slack seat angle is great, however climbing steep alpine singletrack with 425 chainstays there's just no way to keep the front wheel on the ground
also for the record norco increases chainstay length with larger sizes
I don't get it...if you go to the trouble of making a mould for each size, why not just get each one right?
For those that don't want the fancy carbon front and want to save a few bucks, the AL version is a steal for $3800.
I agree with the comments about the top tube cable seals. They're shite and I find them hanging out at the end of a lot of rides. It could also use a longer dropper on the L and XL if you're going to really push the envelope on it. I've found 6.5nm on the seat clamp holds it without pinching the dropper. I also suffer from some heal rub, don't really notice it but missing a bunch of paint of the stays. I have biggish feet and ride a bit heels in though.
I'd definitely recommend it to anyone after a properly tidy trail bike that can get rad alongside way bigger bikes and do an XC epic through the local woods the next day.
Seems strange to have a dialed portfolio that includes the T130, T160, and T129 without trying to put together a long-legged 29er that mirrors the same geometry and suspension approach. Strange isn't really the right word - missed opportunity at awesomeness.
Honestly if they'd just do a carbon T129 with a 130mm fork and Eagle I'd be interested.
Speaking of correct chain lines, does this bike's 1x Shimano XT drivetrain drop the chain off the largest cassette sprocket to the next smaller one if the cranks are rotated backwards...even just a little bit? Some bikes i've ridden have that annoying habit.
1) Demo ride of the Yari model and it put me in a tree because I was going too fast - that's the bike for me!
2) Bought the CRS and it's doing its damnedest to stick me in another tree - pheckin love this bike, it's scarily fast!
3) The geomerty has the right compromises for me; climbs very slightly compromised to the benefit of the singletrack and decents of all types - this thing is so stable at speed and batters through anything - who needs a 160mm enduro bike?
4) Also having minor problems with the internal cable seals but I'm sure my LBS will sort this, I can live with that
5) Would have been happy with an 11-speed setup, the 12-speed Eagle is fine but that's one big cassette in terms of size and replacement price oh and no PowerLock's available yet so dreading a chain snap!
6) Doesn't look like a Session and I personally think it's a good looking bike!
Summary: one very happy Whyte T-130 CRS owner!
The suspension just broke-in on my T130. It handles almost everything as well as the G160 does. Not quite as able on the downs as the G160, but everywhere else it's as good, or better. Since I've started doing more endurance rides, the lower weight really helps.
I had an issue with the SP slipping as well. I put some carbon paste on it, and tightened it to 6nm. It stays put now. I blew up the Ardent Race on the rear, on the second ride. Put an Ikon on instead. Best rear tire for this type of bike. Fast rolling, big volume, and it's a Maxxis.
I have about 600 miles on the T130. I'm 6'4" and 200lbs and the XL fits great. Swapped the chainring for an oval. If you can only have one bike, it's really the perfect bike in my opinion.
I thought everything had been said about the reverb until I read you can stop it operating by slightly over tightening a seat clamp!
"Also in the British tradition, the bottom bracket is threaded"
"Bottom Bracket: Race Face press fit 92mm "
So?
www.pinkbike.com/news/topeak-ninja-tc-road-bottle-cage-review-2016.html
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