Whyte T-130C Works - Review

Sep 6, 2016
by Richard Cunningham  




Whyte Bicycles is a British brand, founded by its namesake, Jon Whyte, who has been on the vanguard of the mountain bike suspension movement nearly from day one. Whyte was a proponent of the now ubiquitous dual-link swingarm pivot when few understood its potential, but for the Trail-130C Works in this feature, Whyte revisits the simpler Horst Link four-bar arrangement. Whyte has grown to the point where it can sustain North American distribution, so for the first time, the brand is readily available in the US.

Priced at $5999 USD, the T-130C Works is the top-drawer model of Whyte's 2016 trail bike range, which includes two aluminum-framed options and two carbon options that begin at $2999 USD. The T-130C, with its carbon chassis, progressive geometry, and impeccably spec'd component selection, is poised to impress top bike-handlers who may be searching for a more playful and pedal-efficient alternative to the long-travel AM/enduro machines that have dominated the marketplace and media in recent years.




Details:
• Purpose: Technical trail riding
• Frame: Carbon front section/aluminum rear section, 27.5" wheels, Boost rear hub spacing, 130mm travel Horst-Link four-bar suspension, threaded bottom bracket, internal cable routing, downtube bottle mount
• Suspension: Fox Float Factory 34 Kashima fork, Float DPS Factory EVOL Kashima shock
• Drivetrain: Shimano XT 11-speed, Face Face Next crankset 32t.
• Brakes: Shimano XT, 180mm-F, 160mm-R rotors
• Wheels: Whyte Trail 30 - 30mm ID carbon rims, Whyte hubs, DT Swiss Comp Race spokes
• Sizes: Small, medium (tested), large and X-large
• Weight: 28 pounds/12.75kg
• MSRP as tested: $5999 USD
• Contact: Whyte USA, Whyte UK, @whytebikesUSA

Whyte T-130C Works


About the T-130 Works

Frame:The 130C Works is one of the tamer looking designs that has come from the Whyte think tank, but that does not mean ordinary. Its numbers are modern enough to provide inspirational technical handling without bending to the exaggerated front center, super-steep seat tube angle, ground-hugging bottom bracket and DH head angles that the sport's illuminati are calling for. Its well-crafted 130-millimeter-travel chassis is carbon up front, with a welded-aluminum rear suspension - and coming from one of the sport's muckiest riding destinations, the T-130C chassis has been tightly sealed against the elements where the cables and housings enter the frame. There is also a molded-rubber ring encircling the seatpost and an internal seat binder arrangement to prevent muck and moisture from entering the frame's seat tube. Also in the British tradition, the bottom bracket is threaded, and there is a single bottle mount on the downtube.

Whyte T-130C Works
Lots of control from the rear suspension while braking.

Whyte T-130C Works
Ample stand-over clearance and an internal seatpost clamp.
Whyte T-130C Works
Whyte's carbon wheelset has a rapid-engagement freehub.

Whyte T-130C Works
Whyte's stem was sweet. Tight-fitting rubber cable entries were iffy.

One-By for life: Shamelessly, Whyte makes no provision for a front derailleur and puts the hollow space that most frame designers still reserve for Shimano's mechanical dinosaur to better use by widening the frame, the swingarm pivots, and eliminating the ugly dog-leg on the right chainstay. That's correct - Whyte swingarms have symmetrical chainstays - and ample tire clearance, and correct chain lines, and the chassis is laterally stiffer because of it.

Great build: Shimano, however, is not an enemy of Whyte Bicycles. In fact, the 2016 T-130 Works we test here bucks the SRAM trend, with a Deore XT 11-speed transmission, powered by a Race Face Next crankset - and it also sports XT brakes with the neoclassic, 180/160-millimeter rotor combination. Suspension is all Fox, with a 130-millimeter-stroke Float Factory 34 fork, paired to a Float Factory DPS EVOL shock (both Kashima coated), while the T-130C's dropper post was a 125-millimeter-stroke RockShox Reverb Stealth.

Specifications
Release Date 2016
Price $5999
Travel 130mm
Rear Shock Fox Float DPS Factory, Kashima
Fork Fox Float Factory 34, 130mm, FIT4 Damper, Kashima
Headset FSA Orbit
Cassette Shimano XT M8000 11-42
Crankarms Race Face Next Carbon Cinch 32T
Chainguide NA
Bottom Bracket Race Face threaded
Pedals NA
Rear Derailleur Shimano XT Shadow Plus
Chain Shimano HG-600, 11 Speed
Front Derailleur NA
Shifter Pods Shimano XT
Handlebar RaceFace SIXC Carbon, 760mm wide, 20mm rise
Stem Whyte 50mm
Grips Whyte Lock-on
Brakes Shimano XT M8000, 160mm rotor (R), 180mm (F)
Wheelset Whyte
Hubs Whyte, 28 spoke, Micro-Engagement rear
Spokes DT Swiss Comp Race, brass nipples
Rim Whyte 30mm Carbon tubless
Tires Maxxis Ardent 2.25"
Seat Whyte
Seatpost RockShox Reverb Stealth 125mm
Whyte T-130C Works

Cockpit appointments read like a shopping list of just-right items for a trail bike intended to span the gap between rad and rideable. The 760-millimeter Race Face carbon SIXC handlebar is an ample width, sporting comfortable Whyte-branded lock-on grips and a branded 50-millimeter aluminum stem. All the components are tastefully color-matched from tip to tail. If you like orange, you will love this bike.

Sensible numbers: Start with a 66.5 degree head angle, which is slack enough to ease you down gnarly drops. Add short, 16.5-inch chainstays to ensure that your rear tire will be clawing for traction up technical climbs, and then set the bottom bracket at 13 inches - low enough to place the crank center almost an inch below the axles, yet high enough to keep the pedals from banging off rocks. To this point, the T-130C's numbers are up-to-the moment, but Whyte breaks from the current rider-forward fad with a step back to a more conventional 73.5-degree seat tube angle. I assume their reasoning was to provide a more efficient seated pedaling position for prolonged climbs. (More about that later.) The anticipated sum of all those values is a bike with a wider variety of tools available to its rider than either a dedicated XC trailbike, or a full-fledged enduro racer could provide.
Whyte T-130C 2016

Whyte T-130C 2016





With the first roll-out, the Whyte impressed me with how planted it feels. Its steering feels deliberate - the front wheel will track the smallest movement of the handlebar and the rear wheel tends to grip rather than slide around. I learned quickly to choose a line and point the bike exactly where I wanted to go, and to avoid the temptation to continually adjust the bike's trajectory to avoid minor obstacles. Commit and Whyte's mid-travel trail bike will hold its line over a surprising array of bumps, rocks and uncertain surfaces. Ride with uncertainty and the T-130 will wander. The steering is not overly quick. In fact, the T-130 feels remarkably stable in any technical situation, but it rewards precision.

Setting up the suspension is easy. Like many Horst-Link designs, it can be configured hard or soft and still manage to deliver a balanced ride. Sag settings close to 25-percent on the fork and shock did the trick (the T-130 has 130 millimeters of wheel travel on both ends), and I found that the bike was happier with slightly faster low-speed rebound values than I usually prefer. The suspension feels firm in the mid-stroke, so it pedals well without damping aids, and it maintains its ride height well under braking. Conversely, with so much support in the mid-stroke, the Whyte lets its rider know what's going on beneath the wheels, but a rougher ride is a compromise one must be willing to accept to enjoy the livelier, more responsive feel that a technically adept chassis with minimal suspension travel can deliver.
Whyte T-130 Works

Whyte T-130C Works

bigquotesThe steering is not overly quick ...but it rewards precision.

Seat angles and climbing: Steep seat tube angles may be the rage at the moment, but the Whyte T-130's not-so-modern seat-tube angle reminded me that there were valid reasons why seat tubes hovered around 73 degrees for nearly a hundred years. Setting bike-fit ergonomics aside for the moment, seat tube angles around 73 degrees set the rider behind the crank circle, just enough so that when the rider pushes hard on the pedals, much of that pressure is countered by the saddle. This takes a huge load off of the rider's upper body - muscles that would normally have to counter those pedaling thrusts.

The rider's weight plays a significant role in countering pedaling forces, but when a rider climbs or accelerates strongly, pedaling thrusts quickly overcome the rider's weight. As seat tube angles pass 74 degrees, the rider's seated location over the cranks begins to emulate a standing, out-of-the-saddle position. Very little pedaling force is directed into the saddle and almost all pedaling effort that exceeds the rider's weight must be counteracted by the rider's arms and torso. That can be a significant energy waster on a long trail ride.

Whyte T-130 Works

bigquotesThe Whyte T-130's not-so-modern seat-tube angle reminded me that there were valid reasons why seat tubes hovered around 73 degrees for nearly a hundred years.


The advantage of seat tube angles beyond 74 degrees comes into play when climbing very steep pitches. In those situations, the exaggerated angle compensates for the steepness of the terrain by shifting weight forward and placing the rider in a similar position over the crank-circle as a 73-degree angle would when climbing more moderate grades. Where I do most of my riding, climbs are steady and peppered with technical challenges, so I prefer a 74-degree seat tube angle, which is a good compromise between long-ride pedaling efficiency and a good technical climbing position. The Whyte R-130's cockpit ergonomics were a similar compromise between the emerging "rider-forward" geometry and the more moderate numbers of a good XC/trailbike. The front tire stayed in contact with the earth, I never worried about traction while I was scratching up technical climbs, and I could settle into a comfortable pace for long ascents.

Handling: I could trust the T-130 to get me down almost any technical descent. With Maxxis High Roller II tires mounted to Whyte's house-brand 30-millimeter-width carbon rims, I could find sufficient braking and turning traction to keep the rubber side down on almost any surface (Note: not-so grippy Maxxis Ardent 2.25" tires are listed in the specs). Cornering the Whyte took some getting used to, because the weight balance between its wheels is such that both tires tend to break traction at the same moment. Overcook a corner and instead of a typical rear-wheel drift, both tires will slide until they can find something to hang onto again. It's a much faster way to turn corners, but it feels less secure than dragging your rear tire around does. Another up-side of the Whyte's edgy turning style is that you can set up for any kind of corner the same way - establish a lean and it will find its way around. It carves a tight arc and, as mentioned, it can be steered with remarkable accuracy should you need to alter your line.

Whyte T-130C Works

As delivered, the T-130's Fox suspension was tuned exactly how I set my bikes up for Southern California: Soft enough in the first part of its travel to help the tires find grip on loose, gravelly soil, and firm in the mid-stroke to keep the fork and shock from blowing through their travel when braking hard, or when dropping down boulders and rocky chutes.

Typically, a 120 to 130-millimeter chassis will feel choppy at speed when it runs out of wheel travel, and the evidence that leaves behind is sealing fluid seeping from pinholes in the tires where they bottomed repeatedly against nasty things. Not so with the T-130. The Whyte felt quite smooth at speed, and rarely lost its composure when it was in over its head with speed and terrain. I was especially impressed by how stable the Fox 34 fork felt. I attribute some of the T-130's ride quality to its capable suspension, and as much to the bike's long and low stance. Even when I was leaning well off the front or rear, it always felt like I was within the "safety zone" of the chassis.


Technical report:

As advertised, the Whyte T-130's carbon chassis is truly next-gen: Light weight and spirited in the pedaling department, with a generously long cockpit and gravity inspired geometry, it rolls silently, and its component selection leaves little to desired - at a very attractive MSRP.

Spoiler alert: Its replacement, the 2017 T-130 Works, has recently been announced, and will feature the same chassis, but equipped with a full SRAM ensemble, including Eagle 12-speed and RockShox suspension. Priced at $6,499 USD, however, it is also a bit more expensive. Choose the 2016 or 2017 model, either way, you are sure to get a great trailbike. Here is how the 2016 model's components stacked up:

Internal seatpost clamp: Good idea on paper, with a rubber seal up top and no seat tube slot to attract water and muck, an internal clamp makes sense for any mountain bike. The bad news is that the clamp's internal wedges puts localized pressure on the RockShox dropper seatpost and binds the mechanism. Back the pressure off and the post can slide into the frame over time. I found a happy medium, but it was a bother.

Whyte Carbon Tubeless wheels: Good feeling wheelset. Not overly stiff and the spoke tension held up for an extended review period. The 30-millimeter inside width turned the Maxxis High Roller II tread profiles into cornering and climbing carnivores. The quick engagement freehub was an added bonus.

Internal cable plugs: Bit of a nitpick here, but one of the bike's selling points was that its chassis was well sealed. The rubber plugs intended to protect the cable and hose entries fell out repeatedly until I rammed them into place with a seal pick and some glue. The culprit seemed to be that the grooves in the plugs are narrower than the thickness of the frame.
Whyte T-130C Works

Whyte T-130C Works

Whyte T-130 Works


Pinkbike's Take:
bigquotesI'd recommend the T-130 Works to riders searching for a particularly versatile trailbike. It climbs easily, and does not ask much from its pilot at the controls. It is built tough enough to go the distance, it has an excellent suspension system, and it is brave enough to demonstrate how deep you can go into the abyss with only 130 millimeters of suspension travel. Whyte sent me the T-130 while I was reviewing a handful of other makes, ranging from enduro monsters to lightweight XC trailbikes. More often than not, it was the Whyte that I reached for when I had the choice. - RC



More images in the review galllery.






Must Read This Week

98 Comments

  • + 55
 Please Pinkbike readers, lets all support "Whyte Bikes Matter!"
  • + 54
 Your micro aggression is triggering me. I need a safe space.
  • + 51
 Ctrl + F -> Climbs like an xc bike but descends like an......

Not found! wtf
  • + 21
 Probably because you wrote "an"
  • + 14
 mixing up the language these days!

"It climbs easily... and it is brave enough to demonstrate how deep you can go into the abyss with only 130 mm of suspension travel."
  • + 2
 So I'm playing pinkbike and look up to see I'm watching some British fxcking baking show. Do you guys in the uk have a couple of jack asses cooking bbq on your tv?
  • + 11
 @beaverpoker: Hey hey hey. the Great British Bake Off is some serious business
  • + 0
 Grips my tits when companies wanna charge you $5999 and skimp out on the frame by giving you alloy chainstays! For that price, might as well go Santa Cruz, Yeti or Intense.
  • + 3
 I CTRL+F 'Face Face Next Crankset' and surprisingly, I found it...
  • + 1
 @notenufbikes: Agreed. I was looking at the T-130C and ended up getting an Ibis Mojo 3 instead. Around here a lot of riders choose Ibis bikes and there are a lot of good stories about Ibis support floating around here. Also the local bike shops have demo bikes so you can test it out. If you buy a T-130C you have extremely limited, if any, chances to ride a demo bike. To top it off, my Mojo 3 is a similar build and after a modest discount at the LBS it's similarly priced.
  • + 1
 @PullMyBrakeLever: Yeah don't blame you, plus Mojo 3 is aesthetically pleasing. Specialized is also guilty of this along with a few other companies no doubt. Where they give carbon mainframe and alloy chainstays. Hence why I went with Cube 2014 Stereo 160 HPC Race. Great value for money with the FSR platform.
  • + 35
 Off-topic, but I am pleased to realize that I have been reading Pinkbike for long enough to reliably recognize the various authors by their diction. Well-written and thorough as usual, Mr. Cunningham; your voice is one of uncommonly clear and crisp reason in this marketing-driven industry. As consistently high-quality as Pinkbike's content is, your work is always a particular treat to read.
  • + 9
 Thanks for writting my comment for me @Bluefire ! I particularly liked the description of the riding dynamics of 74 vs >74 degree-ish seat angles. First time ive seen a real description of pros vs cons, not just marketing talk. All very well done @RichardCunningham !
  • + 23
 I would opinionate that seat tube angle is all about your post height compared to the angle. Tall people should consider seeking a steeper ST than shorter people, for a given frame size.
  • + 17
 Absolutely kelownamike. One seat tube angle for every frame size is a tradition that needs to be abandoned.
  • + 14
 @RichardCunningham: Bin the one-size-fits-all approach for both STA and chainstay length?
Nah - let's talk new acronyms and proprietary parts which make no discernible different in ride quality.
  • + 2
 Transition and Norco make the ST slacker when size increases, and Norco reduces the chainstay lenght. I think it's a better aproach to reduce the chainstays, I don't know if my legs are long (83cms inseam) but to me a too steep seat tube angle puts me in an awkward position. At certain point you can't keep trying to compensate a big ass fork with a steep ST angle. I know everybody wants a 90° seat tube so go ahead, do your thing!
  • + 3
 @kelownamike except in this circumstance the size goes up and the sta gets slacker.

@tehllama i am definitely a proponent of building rear ends to suit each size, but manufacturers know that would cost $$ much easier to say a chainstay length of 420 is perfect if you're 5' or 6'5. In this regard, liteville is on the money!
  • + 3
 @passwordpinkbike: slacker seat tubes on larger bikes is a carryover from CONI road geometry. I also wouldn't be surprised if Transition was using a slacker effective SA on larger frames so they can use the same actual seat tube across a size range on the aluminum bikes- as the overall extension from bb increases with a dog-leg modern seat tube, the effective angle decreases. i'm with @kelownamike

as RC mentions, just comes down to the steepness of your climbs. I'm sure on fire roads in california a slack seat angle is great, however climbing steep alpine singletrack with 425 chainstays there's just no way to keep the front wheel on the ground

also for the record norco increases chainstay length with larger sizes
  • + 2
 @b26-4-Life: Well said.....this decrease in some bike STA on larger frames is nuts...especially as they don't increase CS length !!!

I don't get it...if you go to the trouble of making a mould for each size, why not just get each one right?
  • + 1
 @RichardCunningham @kelownamike so few people seem to understand this. Add to this, the fact that an especially slack actual seat angle is even more punishing for taller riders, since they have the seat post extended so high. And hardly any companies even publish their actual seat angles now...
  • + 18
 I just got the T-130 carbon works this year and absolutely love it! The bike rips... as RC says the130mm of travel is capable for just about anything! I think Ben Cruz rode the t-130 in the Trans-Provence. Also, its not $9000 its $6000. The bike rips!
  • + 5
 $6,499
  • + 14
 Hmm a 130mm bike that rips interesting
  • + 3
 There are some of those! My 140mm spectral isn't the weak link in Vallnord's DH tracks, supporting my 95kg
  • + 1
 @Uuno: on a new trek fuel ex 9.9.. She's been an absolute shredder this season as well.. Given the travel..
  • + 12
 Geo sheet on mobile is unviewable
  • + 4
 It just takes some imagination to read it. Razz
  • + 4
 What's with the seat tube length in XL? Many other companies are building XLs with seat tubes 40mm longer. It would seem beneficial for a bike of this kind to forego the standover height so people can pedal beneficially...which is my next question: as you move up in size, riders are generally taller with longer legs, yet the STA gets slacker as sizes grow, with no chain stay growth. So the tall people can pedal with bums above the rear axle?? Yay
  • + 4
 @SeaJay: could do with a 150 ml dropper post I suppose.
  • + 1
 You must not know any tall people cause there is no way you are going to pedal with decent leg extension unless your 150 post is well past the minimum insertion. But you'll be comfortable going down!
  • + 3
 I can't even read the ride report, text is off the screen
  • + 1
 Yeah the whole is not mobile friendly. At least for me on my S6 active.
  • + 1
 @SeaJay: It's the next stupid trend. Ragley has done the same for 2017.
  • + 7
 I picked up the aluminum T-130 RS this summer and I absolutely love it. RC is spot on in his review. Great handling bike that, like most, greatly benefits from a good tire upgrade.
For those that don't want the fancy carbon front and want to save a few bucks, the AL version is a steal for $3800.
  • + 7
 I've had a T-130C RS since March and it's pretty sweet. Ridden enduros, hit black bike park trails and covered a lot of miles. The geo and suspension kinematics are bang on (and even better with a monarch plus rather than the monarch it came with, cheers SRAM). I'm running a smidge under 30% sag outback with fast rebound and it feels great, although I think Im going to ado a couple of bands in to the shock.

I agree with the comments about the top tube cable seals. They're shite and I find them hanging out at the end of a lot of rides. It could also use a longer dropper on the L and XL if you're going to really push the envelope on it. I've found 6.5nm on the seat clamp holds it without pinching the dropper. I also suffer from some heal rub, don't really notice it but missing a bunch of paint of the stays. I have biggish feet and ride a bit heels in though.

I'd definitely recommend it to anyone after a properly tidy trail bike that can get rad alongside way bigger bikes and do an XC epic through the local woods the next day.
  • + 4
 I've been riding the aluminum version all Summer & couldn't be happier. Very responsive pedaling & turning, & likes to go fast! The skinny WTB Trail Boss ended up on the rear wheel, and I picked up a sticky 2.4 Trail Boss for the front. Rolls fast & really sticks to the dirt, rocks, & roots.
  • + 4
 So, are they going to make a T149?
Seems strange to have a dialed portfolio that includes the T130, T160, and T129 without trying to put together a long-legged 29er that mirrors the same geometry and suspension approach. Strange isn't really the right word - missed opportunity at awesomeness.
  • + 1
 This is a bike I would buy.
  • + 2
 Just get the T129, trust me, it doesn't need any more travel. I've had mine for a little over a month now and I've been blown away with what it can take. It's the most stable feeling bike I've ever ridden on the downhills and I had a Bronson before. The 120mm on the Whyte feels better on the steeps than the 150mm my Bronson had. It's pretty nuts! I've had a couple instances where I definitely would've been OTB on the Bronson but was able to ride it out on the Whyte. The geometry is spot on and the 29" wheels rip. No reason for a T149 in my opinion!
  • + 2
 @jdreynolds2: I've ridden them a bunch of times. It's a good bike, and this years improvements to it make it more viable (it could barely fit a 2.2" tyre before). A long travel 26er and a short travel 29er trail bike aren't really the same thing though - a bigger bike would be a 29er stabelmate to the G160, rather than sit alongside the trail bikes.

Honestly if they'd just do a carbon T129 with a 130mm fork and Eagle I'd be interested.
  • + 1
 @Blacknose: Yeah I've been thinking about swapping my fork to a 130mm. Not to be nit picky but the Bronson is a 27.5", not 26 Smile but yeah I get what you're saying for sure.
  • + 6
 The name Whyte bikes reminds me of another pretty famous manufactor who just won the overall wc. Get it? why.. te(e)... Y..T.. YT!
  • + 6
 I tell people I have an Orange Why Te. Met with confused look...
  • + 4
 I've been riding Whites for the last 3 years now. I don't think you can get a better value bike. Although this carbon one is not necessary. Save your self 2k and get the metal version instead you won't regret it.
  • + 2
 I have the CRS and love it!

1) Demo ride of the Yari model and it put me in a tree because I was going too fast - that's the bike for me!
2) Bought the CRS and it's doing its damnedest to stick me in another tree - pheckin love this bike, it's scarily fast!
3) The geomerty has the right compromises for me; climbs very slightly compromised to the benefit of the singletrack and decents of all types - this thing is so stable at speed and batters through anything - who needs a 160mm enduro bike?
4) Also having minor problems with the internal cable seals but I'm sure my LBS will sort this, I can live with that
5) Would have been happy with an 11-speed setup, the 12-speed Eagle is fine but that's one big cassette in terms of size and replacement price oh and no PowerLock's available yet so dreading a chain snap!
6) Doesn't look like a Session and I personally think it's a good looking bike!

Summary: one very happy Whyte T-130 CRS owner!
  • + 2
 @RichardCunningham you state: "That's correct - Whyte swingarms have symmetrical chainstays - and ample tire clearance, and correct chain lines, and the chassis is laterally stiffer because of it."

Speaking of correct chain lines, does this bike's 1x Shimano XT drivetrain drop the chain off the largest cassette sprocket to the next smaller one if the cranks are rotated backwards...even just a little bit? Some bikes i've ridden have that annoying habit.
  • + 2
 The sealed bearing covers are such a selling point for me. I seem to eat through bearings ~6 months at the moment, why don't other manufacturers offer this? Anyone know of any after market solution? (other than just opening them up and cleaning them out every ride?!)
  • + 3
 Pretty nice spec for the price considering it comes with wide carbon rims. The finish also looks proper. I like the seat clamp a lot
  • + 1
 "seat tube angles around 73 degrees set the rider behind the crank circle, just enough so that when the rider pushes hard on the pedals, much of that pressure is countered by the saddle." I don't get it, how does pressing hard on the pedals push the rider *into* the saddle? Seems like this pushes the rider up and back, so away from the saddle.
  • + 6
 Yes, there is always an "up and back" force, but If you study where the power stroke peaks in the crank circle it will make sense. As seat angles get steeper, the peak power point (while seated) also advances forward on the crank circle, which then exaggerates the situation you described, more directly lifting the rider from the saddle. It works in reverse also: too slack and peak torque occurrs too early and leg force must be countered by your lower back. It's easy to prove: slam your saddle all the way in each direction, taking care to re-set your saddle height to keep your legs at the same extension, and then ride a trail with flat, steeps and steady climbs.
  • + 2
 Damn @RichardCunningham, you just answered why my lower back hurts on my DH bike on longer, more pedally tracks!
  • + 2
 I've been riding a 2016 T129S for a couple months now. Amazing bike! The geometry is perfect, bike feels super stable on the steeps. Definitely recommend @whytebikesUSA and especially the T129!
  • + 1
 I've had a T-130CRS for a month or two and it is my favorite bike to date. I also have a G160RS that is an incredible bike.

The suspension just broke-in on my T130. It handles almost everything as well as the G160 does. Not quite as able on the downs as the G160, but everywhere else it's as good, or better. Since I've started doing more endurance rides, the lower weight really helps.

I had an issue with the SP slipping as well. I put some carbon paste on it, and tightened it to 6nm. It stays put now. I blew up the Ardent Race on the rear, on the second ride. Put an Ikon on instead. Best rear tire for this type of bike. Fast rolling, big volume, and it's a Maxxis.

I have about 600 miles on the T130. I'm 6'4" and 200lbs and the XL fits great. Swapped the chainring for an oval. If you can only have one bike, it's really the perfect bike in my opinion.
  • + 1
 I was about to get upset about the seat angle discussion, which was a frustration of mine for a long time, until I saw the salute to steep climbs. Most of my climbs are steep and long enough that older geometry is painful, made worse by the fact that an extended seatpost puts the saddle way back. I'm generally kinda pissed that the saddle goes rearward for climbing and forward for descending, which is the exact opposite of what I actually want, and which is exaggerated for tall people. I think I used to complain that trail bikes were not made for mountains, but now some are and it seems we can all get the bike we need.
  • + 1
 Carbon frame, carbon cranks, carbon wheels, dropper, $5999, wow! But is anyone else a bit surprised with the 28lb weight? If that was a XL with pedals, OK, but it mentions a Medium was tested.
  • + 3
 Actual weight of the AL T130s, Yari fork, Large size 14,2kg without pedals. Pretty heavy but I guess it can take some serious punishment. Actually it has big forks, 35mm stanctions and big shock 216mm i2i so much of the weight is there. Other than that its a darn good bike.
  • + 4
 So, RC... would you buy it as a quiver killer?
  • + 5
 Great aesthetic.
  • + 3
 I have chain stay envy; manufacturers need to to stop it now with the pointless dropped stays.
  • + 4
 agreed. it's always a bit disheartening to see the dog-leg on some otherwise beautiful frames. only problem with this build is the reverb Razz Wink
  • + 2
 @cuban-b: I was hoping NS may have had a redesign for 2017 but it seems not, none of their bikes come with a front derailleur as far as I can see. Its only really annoying thing on the Snabb and for no real reason.

I thought everything had been said about the reverb until I read you can stop it operating by slightly over tightening a seat clamp!
  • + 5
 Why isn't it white?
  • + 17
 Because the owner's name is Whyte not White.
  • + 1
 @recipher: Don't think it's been owned by Jon for about 10 years now.
  • + 11
 @Damo6-6-6: yep, but he deserves the nod. It's the first time PB has reviewed the brand. The guy is brilliant.
  • + 1
 The way many modern head tubes are designed makes me feel they're safer (less chance of breaking) than in the past, although looks can obviously be deceiving.
  • + 4
 Looks like a sweet ride!
  • + 1
 Beautiful and elegant bike. I like literally everything about it. But for a full carbon trail bike it seems just a tad heavy. But i would ride it
  • + 2
 Sorry to be picky, but it's not full carbon. It has an alloy rear triangle. Probably contributes to the higher than expected weight, but also durability, i like it.
  • + 2
 Huh?
"Also in the British tradition, the bottom bracket is threaded"
"Bottom Bracket: Race Face press fit 92mm "
So?
  • + 2
 It is threaded. It must have been listed as PF 92 on their spec sheet. Nice catch.
  • + 2
 "Face Face cranks" I need one.
  • + 1
 Ah yes, who wouldn't want a set of the classic Face Face Cranks
  • + 1
 I have been saying since 2008, this is what bike companies should model their bikes after.
  • + 2
 Hello Tunnels and Lactic Acid Hill....
  • + 1
 Love that angled seat tube so the end is horizontal where the seat post is inserted. Looks very clean!
  • + 1
 Riding one of these got my GF into MTB. I've ridden them as well, they rock.
  • + 0
 This would of been my next bike if they would sell frame only... I had to buy something else. Sick bike though. I'm a fan.
  • + 2
 Yep, no frame option kills it for me every time!
  • + 1
 Yep. Was trying to work out the cost of frame buying entry level complete and selling the parts but couldn't really get it to add up Frown
  • + 1
 @kiksy: I spoke with Jon last April and he mentioned that they may have a limited amount of frames around October/November..., but I couldn't wait that long.
  • + 1
 the ELEPHANT is the seatpost clamp, most likely optional in 2018
  • + 1
 Haven't had any issues with mine, or the reverb ( knock on wood, er, aluminum...)
  • + 2
 Not a problem with mine either (alu frame) and no need to over torque it. If you're having trouble, applying some assembly paste should help.
  • + 1
 What's hanging off the end of that bottle cage?
  • + 4
 I'd assume it's a multi tool.
  • + 3
 Topek ninja miltitool and bottle cage
  • + 2
 @mikesturgeon: Thanks! Just wanted to confirm it wasn't something electronic. I looked it up and saw the review on it here:

www.pinkbike.com/news/topeak-ninja-tc-road-bottle-cage-review-2016.html
  • - 2
 Discount Camber 650b
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