Today's Tech Tuesday shows you how to install MRP's G2 SL chain guide. Watch the video inside to see how it's done.
If you've never installed a chain guide before you'll want to download and carefully
read the instructions provided by MRP, and watch the how-to video below before picking up a single tool. Familiarizing yourself with the steps prior to starting will make the job much easier once you begin. While the process is simple enough, it is very important to install the guide correctly. Not doing so can result in your chain coming off or jamming at the worst possible time. It's one thing to lose a chain during your race run, but it's a whole different ball of wax if your chain jams while pedaling your ass off towards a jump. As with any repair that we show you here on Tech Tuesday, don't even start if you don't have the correct tools or the confidence to do the job correctly. That is what your local bike shop is for.
Some pointers before you begin...• Be sure that you intend on using the correct size chain ring that works with the guide. MRP produces a number of guides to work with different sizes, but the G2 SL is designed to be used with 36-40 tooth rings.
• The G2 SL is available in BB mount (
using the guides specific BB mount backplate), and ISCG or ISCG 05 mounting patterns. How do you know the difference? BB mount refers to a frame that doesn't incorporate chain guide mounting tabs around the bottom bracket shell, meaning that you'll have to use an adapter that is sandwiched between the frame and drive side BB cup in order to install the guide. ISCG and ISCG 05 stand for "International Standard Chain Guide" mounting system, with the new 05 standard being the most common. If you're not sure which one your bike uses you can either look it up on the manufacturer's website or measure the shortest distance between the mounting holes. ISCG will measure at 47.7mm, ISCG-05 at 55.9mm.
• For the guide to work properly it must be positioned correctly over the chain ring. The G2 SL, as well as most other guides, can be adjusted both in and out from the bike's center line by way of thin washers in order to be centered over the ring, as well as clocked correctly by rotating the guide on its slotted mounting holes so that the sliders are in the right position to hold the chain in place. Both adjustments are critical to have the guide function properly.
• While it can sometimes be a time consuming process to dial out any and all drag by changing the thin mounting washers between the frame and boomerang, your guide will function better and last longer if you make the effort to do it correctly. Never space out either the upper or lower sliders.
• The upper and lower slider are held in place with lightweight aluminum bolts. Take care to not over tighten these.
• The MRP G2 SL's upper slider should sit between the 12 o'clock and 12:30 position when adjusted correctly.
• Do not install the guide and head straight out to the trails! Check your shifting on the stand to be sure that it doesn't interfere with anything and then do a few laps around the parking lot before loading the bike up.
What's needed: 2.5mm, 4mm, and 8mm hex keys,
crank extractor (
if your cranks do not use self extractors), the appropriate
bottom bracket cup tool (
if uses a ISCG adapter)
Learn how to install your MRP G2 SL:
Have you done this job? Want to add a tip or hint of your own? Put it down below!
Past Tech Tuesdays:
Technical Tuesday #1 - How to change a tube. Technical Tuesday #2 - How to set up your SRAM rear derailleur Technical Tuesday #3 - How to remove and install pedals Technical Tuesday #4 - How To Bleed Your Avid Elixir Brakes Technical Tuesday #5 - How To Check And Adjust Your Headset Technical Tuesday #6 - How To Fix A Broken Chain Technical Tuesday #7 - Tubeless Conversion Technical Tuesday #8 - Chain Wear Technical Tuesday #9 - SRAM Shift Cable Replacement Technical Tuesday #10 - Removing And Installing a HeadsetTechnical Tuesday #11 - Chain Lube ExplainedTechnical Tuesday #12 - RockShox Totem and Lyric Mission Control Damper ModTechnical Tuesday #13 - Shimano XT Crank and Bottom Bracket Installation Technical Tuesday #14 - Straightening Your Derailleur HangerTechnical Tuesday #15 - Setting Up Your Front DerailleurTechnical Tuesday #16 - Setting Up Your CockpitTechnical Tuesday #17 - Suspension BasicsTechnical Tuesday #18 - Adjusting The Fox DHX 5.0Technical Tuesday #19 - Adjusting The RockShox BoXXer World CupTechnical Tuesday #20 - Servicing Your Fox Float ShockTechnical Tuesday #21 - Wheel Truing BasicsTechnical Tuesday #22 - Shimano Brake Pad ReplacementTechnical Tuesday #23 - Shimano brake bleedTechnical Tuesday #24 - Fox Lower Leg Removal And ServiceTechnical Tuesday #25 - RockShox Motion Control ServiceTechnical Tuesday #26 - Avid BB7 Cable Disk Brake SetupTechnical Tuesday #27 - Manitou Dorado Fork RebuildTechnical Tuesday #28 - Manitou Circus Fork RebuildVisit
Parktool.com to see their entire lineup of tools and lubes.
i am also really happy to see mike back
www.pushindustries.com/2009/index.php
As i'm about to set up the gears should i have the chain guide installed when taking out the links to get the correct chain length?
My thinking on this is that if i set the chain to the correct length etc before mounting the chain device it will come to be too short as the bottom guide pulley will suck the chain up more creating too much tension on the Derailleur.
Hope you get what i'm getting at and i get a response.
Thanks PB rules.
Anyone tried fitting one to an 05 SX Trail or 05 Enduro? Just wondering if I'll need to bust out the Dremel and mod it to fit?
Granted, I haven't been doing it long, but I know my predecessor was extremely fair in handling claims (as am I) and actually pretty lenient. On the very first G2 we did use aluminum bolts which would strip if attention wasn't paid to torque specs, we have since replaced those (in production and for anyone requesting them) with steel to mitigate the issue. On the newer G2 SL the bolt heads are 4mm, so you'd have to fudge-up pretty bad to strip those. Cheers