I like the idea that I can compress enough air by hand to mount tubeless tires without the use of a noisy electric-powered device. Topeak's Joeblow Booster costs about the same as a good garage-sized air compressor, which can far exceed the Booster's capabilities in garage or shop setting. The Booster wins when one considers that it is silent, very portable, and that it doesn't require an electrical outlet. I have both, and have not turned on my electric compressor since the Booster arrived. - RC |
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about half the price ! if you calculate the exchange rate and work really well
Not even mentioning how expensive CO2 cartridges are and that they are bad for the environment (also good luck trying to get mtbs accepted when the trails are full of empty CO2 cartridges).
As far as cost, again, not for every time you need air, just when you need to seat the tire so compared to a 160.00 pump. I can buy maybe 5-10 CO2's a year, then use the pump I already have. (I also use a big portable air tank that was only 20 bucks)
5-10 CO2's a year isn't even a blip on the radar for environmental concerns VS a persons overall carbon footprint. And they are 100% recyclable. And as far as litter on the trail. That's a pretty stupid argument. ANYTHING you have on, in, or with you when you bike ride "COULD" end up as litter....
CO2 cartridges are cheap at 3$ a piece vs the $160 pump. Why on earth would I leave the cartridge on the trail? Thats like saying tubes are bad for the environment when everyone leaves their flatted ones on the trail...no one does that.
I buy cheap unthreaded Crosman brand CO2 cartridges (for BB guns). About $16 for a 40 pack! You do have to have an inflator that can use unthreaded cartriges (I use an Innovations ultraflate with a cotton ball in the bottom to hold it tight). Works like a charm. One box has lasted me for years!
NOTE: Do NOT spray the CO2 directly onto sealant. It comes out cold and can freeze it.
NOTE2: CO2 does NOT leak out faster than atmospheric air... the molecules are just as large or bigger than N2 and O2...
You know not of what you speak of:
What dude was talking about was using Co2 cartridges to SEAT THE BEADS.
And yes they work quite well.
And I don't know where you're at, but here in Kalifornistan you can buy 'em for about a buck a piece-and less on sale. BB/Pellet guns use 'em too, thus you don't pay bike store prices when you buy 'em from a sporting good store.
That's roughly 160 tubeless tire's beads set by the time you equal the cost of this pump.
Lastly, as far as being bad for the environment, they're made of fricken ALUMINUM, which is HIGHLY RECYCLABLE
You people are retarded.
The sealant does not chemically react with the CO2. It is a dry gas and turns the sealant into a rubber ball because the moisture is drastically reduced.
It can shorten the life of the sealant in that it can turn the once liquid sealant into one rubber ball. If you must use CO2, you can inflate the tire without sealant, then deflate the tire and add your sealant through the valve stem.
I not only speak from experience, I also have done real research relating to this.
Besides, who doesn't inflate a tire with the valve at 12 oclock? its common knowledge, and it does NOT prevent sealant damage, so stop spreading around bad advice.
The expansion of a gas is an endothermic reaction (brutally said, it “sucks” heat) and the magnitude of the temperature drop is related to the initial gas pressure; because of its higher cartridge pressure, CO2 will “freeze” a lot more than inflate and repair cartridges like our Espresso.
The reason why latex sealants solidify when using CO2 cartridges is a physical one; it’s the big thermal shock, which often initiates the polymerization of the sealant. To avoid it, it’s normally sufficient to put the valve at 12-o’clock prior to inflation and let the sealant flow down to the 6-o’clock area, so that it won’t be directly hit by the cold gas. Also, reducing the inflation speed (most CO2 adapters allow it these days) will prevent dropping the temperature too much, good for the sealant … and good for your hands, if you’re not wearing gloves.
Read more at velonews.competitor.com/2014/12/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-tire-sealant-questions_355499#DRWoPWU4xeOZvMP2.99
I've also done real research on it, and have gotten feedback from Stan at Stans no Tubes himself. The 16g of CO2 that I use does not hurt the sealant.
Go ahead an buy your $160 pump ill stick with my method, that has worked flawlessly for years.
Replacing the sealant at the end of the season will prevent any issues. That's why I wont be buying a $160 pump.
I come here to offer solid advice about things I have experienced, and you resort to name calling and a bad attitude. Nice try.
Well, that conversation escalated quickly.
Anecdotally, I have used the same $8 box of co2 cartridges to seat roughly 2-3 sets of tires per season for the last 5 years. I have only gotten the "stansimals" once, and that tire was so full of cactus needles... I have seated a tire in march and still had juice in July, in the west Texas desert, in 6% humidity.
@thrasher2 thanks for the input man. These people here dont know what they are talking about.
Made of metal.
Has the attached boost canister.
$100
Should I say more
AirShot!
Compare them~ That's what people want to hear and know. Give valid pros and cons like why should I buy this one over the others? Or vice versa.
Is Pinkbike too soft and not want to offend any "Sponsors" or possible "sponsors"??
All was not lost. I run a very successful £15 Halfords track pump (that is a bit sh!t) and I made my pop bottle tubeless bong from the bits of Topeak pump. Upcycling. Winner.
www.chainreactioncycles.com/airwave-airblast-tubeless-tyre-track-pump/rp-prod142714
Works pretty well.
singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/ghetto-tubeless-inflator-mk-vii
People DO realize these are literally 1/10th of the price at WalMart or Target for what is essentially the same construction minus one tube and plastic check valve, same gauge and is probably made in the same place in Taiwan or China, right??