There's an aluminum version of Norco's Aurum 650B on the way. The 7.1 (shown) will retail for $3885 USD, and the base model 7.2 will go for $2985. Both bikes have 200mm of travel via Norco's A.R.T rear suspension, their take on a Horst Link design.
Looking for an XC speed machine? The Revolver is Norco's new 100mm carbon fiber race weapon. The 9XX model shown retails for $7145 USD.
The 160mm Range remains relatively unchanged for 2016, although it now get a 170mm fork up front to make it even more of an all-mountain menace.
The top four versions of the Ride 100% Aircraft helmet will be arriving this November, followed by the lower four colors in March 2016. The carbon/Kevlar shelled helmet will retail for $400 USD, with a $50 upcharge for the chrome color options
The Aircraft uses 25 vents to maximize the amount of airflow, and also has emergency release cheek pads to help medical personnel remove the helmet without moving the rider too much.
The helmet will be available in five sizes, from XS to XL, with a a weight of 1000 to 1080 grams depending on the shell size.
Add Norco to the growing list of manufacturers offering a 27.5+ option. The aluminum Torrent has a relatively slack head angle of 67 degrees and rolls on 3.0" tires. Riders interested in the Torrent 7.1 shown, which has a SRAM GX 1x11 drivetrain and a 130mm RockShox Yari fork will need to set aside $2425 USD.
Maxxis' Aggressor is designed to be an all-rounder, usable for everything from trail to all-mountain riding. There are two versions, one with Maxxis' EXO sidewall protection, and the other with their new extra-reinforced Double Down casing. Both options measure 27.5 x 2.3".
I wish helmets looked this cool when I was a kid. Bell's Ramble helmet is multisport certified, available in three colors, and even comes with a sticker kit for $60 USD.
Jamis is making a push into the all-mountain / enduro segment with their 160mm Defcon.
7iDP's Transition knee pads now come in a wraparound version that can be taken on and off without removing your shoes.
7iDP are also expanding their glove collection, with a wide range of colors and styles.
Garmin's Edge 520 GPS computer can display live Strava segments, and can be paired up with other components to display Shimano's Di2 electronic shifting information, heart rate, power, and more.
Novatec's Demon wheelset is aimed at DH and enduro racers. The 26" or 27.5"rims have been redesigned, and now have rounder profile and an internal width of 25.8mm. $829 USD.
The hubs on the Demon wheelset have a quick 4.8 degrees of engagement, and are available for most axle standards, including Boost.
7Mesh's Northwoods jacket is a light and packable wind resistant layer for keeping the elements at bay on those brisk fall days. $149 USD.
The Blackburn Wayside multi-tool has 19 functions, and includes removable hex keys to help get to those hard to reach spots. There's even a tool to help hold your chain together when fixing a broken link. $34.99 USD.
Night riding season is coming, and Light and Motion have a plenty of choices for chasing the dark away. They've teamed up with Bar Fly to integrate their light underneath a computer mound, decreasing the amount of handlebar clutter. They also have light mounting options that integrate with a GoPro mount.
Osprey's Viper and Verve packs are now available in a smaller version that has 3 liters of cargo capacity, just enough room to carry a few tools and a small jacket.
Yakima have a new aerodynamic steel crossbar that's is said to decrease wind noise and help preserve a car's fuel efficiency.
Ohlins haven't officially announced their new air shock yet, but it will be appearing on select models of Specialized's Enduro 29 and 650B. It uses a single tube design, and like the coil sprung TTX22 has adjustable rebound and low speed compression, as well as a lever that allows riders to select between three high speed compression settings. The second Schrader valve is proprietary to Specialized, part of their AutoSag system that simplifies setting up the shock's sag.
In addition to manufacturing seals for Ohlin's suspension and RockShox's new Lyrik, SKF provides the oil seals for the FOX 36. The seal on the right is the most current version for the 36, which has a layer of metal around the bottom to ensure that it stays firmly in place even under higher pressures.
I'm not sure how this guy got past security, but he was bounding around on his Bionic Boots like a lost superhero.
Author Info:
mikekazimer
Member since Feb 1, 2009
1,736 articles
Too bad the only thing it has going for it is good looks. It has literally no safety technology, which is why brands like Bell, POC, and Kali will get me money instead.
"The Aircraft meets ASTM Downhill and BMX standards while complying with ASTM, CPSC, CE, and AS / NZ bicycle standards." www.ride100percent.com/mountainbike
@Circe - nonetheless, all of those wonder inventions are truly good for the same, single impact. Multiple-impact claims are super scary because there is no way to truly know how many multiple impacts your helmet can sustain before it is unsafe (regardless of Poc's blinking light) and it could be unsafe after one big impact. How do you really know? All multiple impact claims do is build up a false sense of security because you could be riding with a toasted helmet while thinking it will still protect you. MIPS technology has yet to be proven by an independent 3rd party- all test results come directly from the company selling the feature, so believe that all you want for now.
Concerning low-g impacts, this is something that I do agree is a cool feature but as far as I am aware there is no test that specifically measures this. So any claims are just claims for now.
@faul you're right, "multiple impact" CAN occur during a single crash, but not necessarily during every single crash and not necessarily in the same repeated area of the helmet. Companies that promote "multiple impact" helmets (in both winter and summer sports) say that their helmets can withstand multiple impacts in the same area and this is what is potentially dangerous for riders. The foam in multiple impact helmets generally relies on some sort of re-expansion of compressed foam that can again absorb a future impact. But how much the foam can rebound and fully absorb another impact is what is unknown in every crash. That's why the best and safest approach (with any helmet) is that you have a crash where you say to yourself "wow, I'm glad I had my helmet on for that one" is to replace the helmet and start fresh with an uncompromised helmet.
You misunderstand the concept of multi-impact. Think dropping a watermelon in a helmet off your roof, straight down, perhaps into a bucket. That's single impact.
Now go find another imaginary watermelon, put a new helmet on it and hurl it down your stairs or a nearby hill. That's what multi impact protects for; multiple impacts during the same crash. Think headfirst into a tree: single impact, tomahawking down the steepest pat of your local DH track bashing your head repeatedly on many things: multi impact.
Either way your helmet is hosed after one crash. It just might not be totally useless after the first impact within that crash. Additionally, just because you've only hit your head once in a given crash doesn't mean a multi impact lid is good for another. The term multi impact would actually be better understood if the sticker said "probably won't disintegrate instantly".
@tinfoil while your two examples aren't incorrect, your second example more aptly describes multiple single-impacts that affect the helmet in different areas. The example which I described needs to also be included (the one where you specifically sustain repetitive impacts in the same area of the helmet) and this is also how brands, including POC, refer to multiple impact.
100% only cares about something being cool....highly doubt they give a rats ass about the actual safety aspect of new technology like most brands are doing. Their approach is to make stuff flashy and "stoke" people out. They give 100% effort to marketing and probably 10% to actual innovation in helmet tech. Also, why do we need another helmet brand....really, there aren't enough helmet brands already?!?!
@ka-brap That is a rather vaguely worded description isn't it? You're right, your example does fit under it. I can tell you though that when I used to ski race for POC there was no way they would have ever signed off on us reusing a helmet that had been crashed in, no matter what the marketing says. Take from that what you will.
My God, to have a bike expensive enough to have an Ohlins shock and still need an auto-sag valve to get in the neighborhood of the right amount of sag.
I´ve ridden Norco since the Aurum got his release. My Girlfriend rides a Range and an Oldschool 4X(XXXX) Fully. This Bike is awesome. And now i´ve ordered my Aurum carbon. The frame and the feeling of the bike is perfect. You can ride hard DH Tracks and u can have some fun on the freeride track. Btw when u buy a Norco, you´ll buy some Piece of Canada...... and thats the best Part of it!
Keen to try the new maxxis. Been begging for rear with a decent rolling tread and a strong carcass for ages. Ardents are to flimsy and high rollers and minions to draggy. Hopefully this is the sweat spot for me
@markg1150 - try the DHR2. I can't tell the difference in rolling speed between them and an Ardent but they grip a lot better. I tried an HR2 in the back as well and that thing DRAGS. The DHR2 rolls very quick though.
Thing is, Maxxis makes the best rubbers. @mudmandhbrazil I keep trying other stuff, Schwalbe, Conti, ect .... always come back. I have some new DHRII's that are killing it.
Mainly comes down to that around were i am maxxis are the easiest to get hold off, the longest lasting, and best suited. And I know they work. Tried conti few years ago hated them and they were to weak. Swalble are hard to get hold off don't last 5 mins and are heavy overall for anthing tough enough and are very expensive in comparison to maxxis. I'm looking at specialised butcher and control as possible future options to try .
Yes trueeast front and rear in 3C DH case on my downhill bike. I love them. I run a TR version on the front of my trail bike. Excellent tread, like an improved version of the DHF, as if that was even possible.
I love Maxxis tires and also the DH tube. but I also love other brands. used more than 20 Maxxis tires in my DH bikes. tire choice is personal, look at some privetier racers using 2 diferent brands of tire on the bike. Maxxis is like iPhone people are adict to this brand that is a top product...was using Michelin DH tires back in 2000s and loved them now trying Schwalbe and I am completely in love with that tire knowing that wear fast. look at Magic Mary tires been blacked out by others racers that are sponsored from other brands. know I ride in my Demo a Minnion DHF in the back and a big 2.5 Mudy Mary in the front and love this cause it is big and works so great on DH trails I ride. know I bought a pair of Magic Mary and cant wait to try them. the important is ride the Mountain Bike and be hapy
Man some people get so crazy in these comment sections...lol. Thanks Darkstar I just ordered some super tacky High Roller II's as I am making the jump to 650b on my DH bike. Been riding spesh Butchers for the last couple seasons and Magic Mary's before that, but the Shcwalbes didn't last long enough for $100 a tire. Went back to were I started and was a hard choice between the HR's and the DHR II's. Got a killer deal on them but next time I need tires gonna try the new DHR. Thanks for the reply.
@trueeast - bro, for the 3rd f*ckin time they're not a $100 tire. They're a $30-40 tire, you're just buying them in the wrong spot.
Concerning durability, what do you expect with soft rubber? It's a race tire. Race tires in ALL other sports (cars, motorcycles, etc) race tires don't last for shit. It's the price you pay for grip.
Relax bro I understand what your saying I just don't think you understand what I was originally asking Darkstar. When Magic Marry's first came out they where 99.99 I get a discount and knew they would wear quick. Sorry I'm not a pro Motorsport driver and get them for free. How about minding your own business, never asked you a question or your opinion. Damn man untuck your little buddy and go ride for Pete's sake.
I made a comment about DHR2's then you responded to someone else who said basically the same thing as me AFTER my post, so you were essentially replying to me.
Every time one of your little retard comments pops up I get a notification so I'm just sick of seeing that, checking the notification, and seeing more ignorant shit.
alias you need to lighten up a tad, if you don't want to be bothered by the internet don't play there. For what it's worth I think Maxis tacky compound holds up better than Schwalbe's and grips similarly. I think the Magic Mary is a great tire btw, but for me personally I like the predictabilty of the Maxxis and that likely has most to do with the fact I've been running Minions for like fifteen years so I'm used to them. Bottom line- all preference. I will agree that It is tiresome to hear people complain about expensive soft race tires not lasting more than a couple weekends of riding.
Those Norco Ranges look awesome, but I find the pricing on them a little insane.
I mean, it's not like $9000 for a full carbon bike is unheard of these days... but you'd think that if you're dropping almost 10G's on something, it'd at least come with a top of the line fork.
Man, if you're Garmin or some of those other companies making a $300+ special-purpose "bike computer", competing with perfectly adequate free apps, you've gotta be counting the days to the end.
Strava was a free app for me... until I crashed hard and taco'd my phone. I just bought the Garmin Edge 25... I'll report back after my first crash with it to see how it fares.
Agree, Eurobike was much better. Maybe all the good stuff was already shown there and they are coming up a little short looking for something different.
13 years ago I had a Norco Torrent with 3.0 tires. Loved it. Obviously the geometry/technology was vastly different then (as was our desire to jump it off staircases into flat parkades) but it was a rad bike then and the new one looks great too. Glad to see Norco still relevent and making nice looking bikes (the Range included and on a short list for my next steed).
$800+ dollars for alloy Novatecs? I'm cool with dropping that coin (or more) for wheels but not for middle of the road Novatecs. I can think of a plethora of other wheels in that range or less that make more sense. Starting with Hope hubbed Stan's flow customs.
I can never work out why nearly every wheel manufacturer out there insists on lacing their front wheels with the leading spokes both outside the flange, and their rear wheels leading one side, trailing the other. It is definitely the norm, but why?
totally guessing, but maybe because the rear wheel sees large forces in the pedaling direction, but the front wheel sees forces in the braking direction? Maybe a little better stability by having the stressed spokes just a couple millimeters further outboard. But like I said, total guess.
ummmm torque... drive torque for the rear freehub side, disc brake torque otherwise. The outside spokes have the widest effective cross section base to the triangle.
Yeah I totally agree you should have the stressed spokes on the outside, but in my brain, braking forces ALWAYS overpower drive forces. Think how easy it is to skid the rear wheel, compared to how hard it is to wheelspin. This is why I always build all my wheels with the leading (braking) spokes on the outside. All front wheels are built this way, but rear wheels are always built left flange one way, right flange the other way. The only argument I can see is that they imagine the hub shell is twisting under drive loads. However, it isn't twisting, and there is no reason it would. Even the flimsiest hub would shrug off any twisting loads a human could apply, and thats WITHOUT the support of 30+ spokes under huge tension. yet ALL companies build their complete wheels this way.
The spokes on the inside of the flange are slightly less prone to breaking, as they're not being bent so much to clear the outer edge of the flange then get to the rim. On the rear wheel, the torsional force from the drive side of the hub is going clockwise (looking at the wheel from the drive-side), so it makes sense for the trailing spokes (the ones more under tension with a clockwise torsional force) to be stronger. On the disc side, the force from the brake is acting counter-clockwise (looking from the drive side), the leading spokes are the ones taking more tension under braking, so the disc side leading spokes are laced inside the flange. On the front wheel only counter-clockwise torsional braking force is taking place, so all the leading spokes are laced to go inside the flange, where they're slightly stronger.
Edit - damn, so many replies making my comment irrelevant in the time it took me to type it
The you read up on this, the more you will realize that it doesn't matter as long as the wheel is tensioned correctly. Even large companies (Shimano / King / DT etc) don't agree. I think Shop people try and make a big deal about it is so they sound like they are some sort of Wheel God. Same goes for arguments about spoke prep / Spoke Freeze / linseed oil / Triflow etc......
Oh god yeah, it doesn't really matter as far as I can tell, but it seems to me the optimum way (if we're splitting hairs) is braking spokes on the outside at all times. It seems as tho every big wheel manufacturer disagrees, just wandered what their logic was.
Have narrowed it down to imagined hubshell twist, or the fact that outside spokes trailing on the drive side will help push an overshifted chain out from behind the cassette.
So one is a solution to a prob that doesn't exist (twisting shells) and one is a solution to a prob that shouldn't exist unless your rear mech is set up by a numpty.
Think I'll stick with my leading spokes on the outside technique. (tbh I was never planning on changing anyway)
Vee rubber is coming out with a re-inforced sidewall for some of their tires called "synthesis". Looks to be able to handle the low pressures people love to run with out risking those pesky snakebites. Also they have a more aggressive 27.5 + tread about to launch.
9th pic down... Guy wearing backwards cap in the background has to be the most generic 'murican bloke I've ever seen at the show! (with the red jams bike in the foreground)
The 100% uses technology that is over 70 years old. It's literally a carbon fiber beer cooler for your head with some rad colors.
When I spend $400 on a helmet, I want multiple density foams, anti rotational systems, and materials to address low g impact.
Go look at what Leatt is doing with their new helmet than tell me the 100% helmet is doing anything more innovative than a chrome finish.
Concerning low-g impacts, this is something that I do agree is a cool feature but as far as I am aware there is no test that specifically measures this. So any claims are just claims for now.
Every time you crash on your head, you have to change the helmet, nothing is different.
Now go find another imaginary watermelon, put a new helmet on it and hurl it down your stairs or a nearby hill. That's what multi impact protects for; multiple impacts during the same crash. Think headfirst into a tree: single impact, tomahawking down the steepest pat of your local DH track bashing your head repeatedly on many things: multi impact.
Either way your helmet is hosed after one crash. It just might not be totally useless after the first impact within that crash. Additionally, just because you've only hit your head once in a given crash doesn't mean a multi impact lid is good for another. The term multi impact would actually be better understood if the sticker said "probably won't disintegrate instantly".
Click on the "technology guide" section: www.pocsports.com/en/14/wheels-helmets
Btw when u buy a Norco, you´ll buy some Piece of Canada...... and thats the best Part of it!
www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/mtb-tires/xc-trail-tires/purgatory-control-2bliss-ready
Concerning durability, what do you expect with soft rubber? It's a race tire. Race tires in ALL other sports (cars, motorcycles, etc) race tires don't last for shit. It's the price you pay for grip.
Shit man, I wish everyone understood that.
I mean, it's not like $9000 for a full carbon bike is unheard of these days... but you'd think that if you're dropping almost 10G's on something, it'd at least come with a top of the line fork.
www.norco.com/bikes/mountain/enduro/range-carbon/range-c71
$9000 and you don't even get a kashima fork with full (HS and LS) compression adjustments? Seems like an odd choice.
Confuses me muchly.
On the disc side, the force from the brake is acting counter-clockwise (looking from the drive side), the leading spokes are the ones taking more tension under braking, so the disc side leading spokes are laced inside the flange.
On the front wheel only counter-clockwise torsional braking force is taking place, so all the leading spokes are laced to go inside the flange, where they're slightly stronger.
Edit - damn, so many replies making my comment irrelevant in the time it took me to type it
Have narrowed it down to imagined hubshell twist, or the fact that outside spokes trailing on the drive side will help push an overshifted chain out from behind the cassette.
So one is a solution to a prob that doesn't exist (twisting shells) and one is a solution to a prob that shouldn't exist unless your rear mech is set up by a numpty.
Think I'll stick with my leading spokes on the outside technique. (tbh I was never planning on changing anyway)
You would save 1/10000 gallon/mile
With the "improved" crossbar