Interview: World Cup Brake Tech with Hayes

Jul 7, 2023
by Nick Bentley  


In this series we will be diving deep on the inner workings and setup preferences of some of the best mechanics and athletes on the World Cup circuit, seeing what makes them tick and how they keep their race machines humming. To start things off, we're looking at brakes, one of the more open-ended areas of bike setup.

So, where to start? The first insight comes from the beautiful and timeless Val di Sole. I thought we would start with brakes (although I suspect you already worked that one out yourselves given the title above). The VDS track is one of the most brutal tracks of the year, with the bottom half littered with giant rock gardens and some brutal steep sections; it's the hardest round of the year for brakes. Add to that, it's normally one of the hottest rounds. It's a tough place if your brakes aren't right.

Our first stop was the Hayes team, where we learned a little more about their brake, the Dominion A4. The brand has seen a resurgence among privateers and top teams in the World Series which has undoubtedly caught the attention of their competitors.

The Dominion A4 brake has already achieved impressive success this year, securing victories in Lenzerheide and Leogang with Rachel Atherton and Andreas Kolb. It's safe to say that Hayes is back with a bang. But what exactly makes the new Hayes brake stand out, and how do you set it up for a downhill World Series race? To find out, we sat down with Kevin Imig from Hayes, who walked us through what's under the hood of the Dominion A4

photo

You can read more about the features and tech of the A4s here, but read on for Kevin's personal setup tricks and preferencees.

Are you seeing a lot of changes to riders brakes here this weekend?


A lot of riders are trying different pads, maybe they were on the full sintered pads and now they're trying the semi metallic pad just to figure out what the best combination is for them. A lot of our sponsor teams are sponsored by Galfer as well, so there's a little bit of unknown for us with all the different Galfer rotor combinations that they could be running. But yeah, definitely a lot of pad compound experimentation.

Speaking of the Galfer stuff, is it a big issue for you guys that teams are running different rotors from your rotors and in some cases different pads as well?


No, it's not too big of an issue. I think, internally and then to our riders, we don't like tell them to do this. But we're not restricting them from doing it either and we've done dyno testing on other pads in our laboratory at home. So we have a general idea of how it works. Obviously, we could do so much more testing and then get so many other rotors and more testing to do but but we feel comfortable with what they're doing, and we've got data to back it up. So not too worried.

photo

Are you seeing a lot more service work here at Val di Sole?


Yes and no, I just I think there's this preconceived notion that brake fluid goes bad like super, super fast and it's awesome to do a bleed like this for a rider (Kevin was midway though a brake bleed when I interrupted him to chat) and you flow a whole syringe and push everything through the whole system and everything that comes out is brand spanking new, it looks exactly the same. So I think it's confidence inspiring for the riders. And then having the dual bleed ports and being able to bleed super thoroughly while it just ensures that they're not going to have fade or bubbles that'll really cause them a problem towards the end of their runs.

What's the biggest issue you see when riders come in with their brakes?


For pro riders here at the World Series, I think there's two standout ones. One, is just the brake hose olive. Yeah, we have two different types of olives, we've got a one piece and a two piece. You've heard me talking about it a little bit, they're not a screw in like some other ones, you have to press them in. Then we'll have either for the one piece olive, they'll push it on and it's like the barbs in but the olive stops right before the hose and then they put the compression nut on and crush it, then they pull the lever and the hose blows. Okay, so olive installation is a big one and we just reiterate, you know, get the J-wire olive installation tool, push it on until it stops. Or if you're using the two piece olive, the barb of the olive you can visually see it's in all the way but then as you're installing it just make sure you're pushing it in to the master cylinder as you tighten your olive and then use a torque wrench, you know, we have torque specs published, we'll share them with you no matter when you ask we give them to you, just use a torque wrench and do it right. Then number two, it's a little bit less of a problem, but our syringes we don't use like an O ring or anything. It's a taper that seats into another taper. So we'll have some guys and they just thread it in by hand and then they do the vacuum pull on it, and they'll see air kind of coming in over and over and over and they'll be like, hey, like the air is getting pulled in. It's okay just take your pliers or whatever and just give it an little extra tighten and seat those two tapers and you're good to go. Those are really the two. The two biggest issues I guess.

Kyle Beutin jumps in to say:

Something else to add too, and this is more for people that aren't necessarily familiar with the crosshair technology and just don't recognize that, we do still see quite a few, maybe not quite a few, but we see some riders and mechanics that come in and their crosshairs aren't adjusted. So I think one of the things for us to make sure is that our athletes and mechanics are all informed. It's just all of those little minut tech details that help them just consistently build a bike or setup a bike in the same way every single time. So it's not a problem, it's just one of those little extra details that makes our brake just that much easier to set up.

So if you were to give your normal rider, not a World Series racer, some advice on setting up their brake what would it be?


For your average rider, you know, when you do your initial bleed install the bleed block. Don't try to leave it open or put pads in and do it on the rotor. If you contaminate your pads it never goes well. The other thing our bleed block has this side here (on the side of the Hayes bleed block there is a tool to help your move your pistons out) and it allows you to push your pistons out and lubricate the square seals with Dot fluid. Do that on a fresh build, it's going to make the retraction super consistent, and it's going to give the rider a better feel. Then just don't mess too much with too many settings straight away. There's a bite point adjustment underneath the lever. Just don't mess with that until you've got some ride time in on the brakes. The brakes are set to the minimum bite point at the start or dead stroke. So just leave it as it is go for a couple of rides and feel it out before you really start to adjust any of that.

photo

I then headed over to the Continental Atherton pit to talk to Andreas Kolb about how he likes to set up his Hayes Dominion A4

What's your biggest brake set up must have?


I think I really like an aggressive brake, like bitey breaking point. Yeah, like not moving in too far. And it needs to do a good stoppie. My stoppies have got way better since I have been on Hayes. It's one of the most important things. It doesn't matter if my race run is good as long as I can get a good finish area stoppie.

Are you picky with the angle of your brake lever or anything like that? Or are you pretty chill with that?


Oh, no, I think I'm pretty chill. I pretty much always stay the same. But I change it a little bit. But it sometimes changes it just depends how steep the track is and stuff

Here at Val di Sole, probably the worst track of the year for brakes, have you made any big changes your brake setup?


No, nothing really. I think we tried like just different brake pads. But yeah, that's pretty much it. We are ran some sintered pads instead of organics just to be ready for the rain. There's a 223 rotor on the front with a 200 on the back but those haven't changed from Leogang.

What is your advice for the average rider who wants to get their brakes set up right?


Get them bled all the time, I think that's a big thing. I always used to never bleed my brakes when I was a privateer, and I was always complaining. If you keep on top of it and bleed your brakes every two or three weeks then they always stay mint, and it doesn't really matter if your pads wear down a little bit. Just give them a bleed and then they're back on point. Oh and clean them, clean them all the time.

photo

You have your levers set in an interesting way, have you made a change to them?


Yeah I have long fingers so I have them set out quite far but with only a small pull and we've changed it a little bit, like we fixed it on the front so the lever doesn't move forward, because I think I death grip quite a lot sometimes. So yeah, I definitely do it. And then Fort William at BDS, I realized that when I put my finger back on the lever that I don't like it when the lever moves forward as I reach for it so we stopped it moving forward, it just gave me a better feeling when I reached for it. It's more of a security thing for me rather than a performance thing.

Anything you say to people who are thinking about getting some Hayes brakes?


Just get them. They're cheap and really good. I was blown away by them when I first tried them, they're just so good.



Next up we have SRAM, look out for that soon.

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124 Comments
  • 55 3
 Love how the Hayes guy says bleeding is often overrated, then the rider says 'bleed them all the time'.

Why do we ask non mechanics these kinds of questions?
Like honestly, setup style maybe, but no one asks for specific suspension setup information from MotoGP or F1 from the drivers. Because they drive/ride fast but aren't mechanics or engineers.
  • 9 2
 Kolb says “all the time” is every 2-3 weeks…
  • 32 0
 It's all in their head, but what's in their head is all that matters sometimes...
  • 17 1
 Ability to accurately describe the behaviour of an F1 car and ask fór solutions all in car engineering language, was what set Michael Schumacher far appart from other drivers and what had helped Ferrari gain victories back then.
  • 3 0
 They should have asked him which brake brand he was using that needed bled all the time?
  • 5 1
 Exactly! Nearly everything Kolb said was pure nonsense from a mechanical point of view. Genuinely my only real take-away from the interview with him is that I'd never ever let Kolb work on my brakes. But.... he's fast as fuck, and if all that nonsense helps give him the confidence to ride like he does, then all that nonsense is worth it.
  • 10 0
 “So I think it's confidence inspiring for the riders.”

If bleeding “all the time” inspires confidence to win a WC, then bleed them all the f**king time!
  • 10 21
flag gabiusmaximus (Jul 8, 2023 at 7:04) (Below Threshold)
 @snomaster: If you genuinely need to bleed your brakes any more regularly than once every couple of years, then either your brakes are broken or you arent bleeding them properly
  • 1 1
 @fluider: And Ayrton Senna before him.
  • 8 12
flag RadBartTaylor (Jul 8, 2023 at 8:13) (Below Threshold)
 @gabiusmaximus: Or you are riding a lot - brake fluid breaks down when it gets hot, weekend warriors 2 years may be ok, for a person that rides a lot more often is better. Also, DOT brake fluid is hygroscopic, the more water it absorbs the quicker the performance degrades, so if you live in a really wet moist environment you will likely have to change more often.
  • 15 1
 @RadBartTaylor: I'd believe that only if you were bleeding your car's brakes every couple weeks as well
  • 11 5
 @RadBartTaylor: Next time you get your mtb rotors glowing red hot at every single corner like a car at le mans, take a video of it an post it. Then i *might* start believing you need to bleed your brakes more often than standard. Until then, I'm sticking to what I said.
  • 9 1
 @RadBartTaylor: If water's getting into your brake lines that quickly and easily, a bleed isn't the solution
  • 6 6
 @gabiusmaximus: couple of things to consider.
1. really depends on how often you ride, so more about ride time, than once every 2 years
2. also depends on where you ride, and what sort of terrain. If youre riding steep gnarly terrian, you might want to do it more often, than mellow blue trail riding.
3. weight plays a factor as well, my buddy whos 130, doesnt need to do it as often as I might
4. Theres a possibility you dont fully understand the hows and whys of why you might want to bleed your brakes more often than not.
5. you're just trying to be controversial to get a bite from people.....theres a term for this I think
  • 3 1
 @onawalk: so make a reply about bleeding your cars brakes? Or motorcycle or whatever you use to get around besides a bike.

And your statement that you should bleed more because of the terrain you ride? Get out of here! That can effect WHAT brake you ride, like size, pad type, setup, etc, but not bleeding more because of the terrain.
You seem to be equating freshly bled brakes = safety, but what you should be saying is 'correctly setup (which by default means a correctly bled brake) brakes are a more significant requirement if you ride gnarly terrain.'
  • 2 1
 @gabiusmaximus: by your logic, there isn’t a single brake out there that’s any good. Cause all the models out there on a wc course happen to be bled each time a stage is happening. The pros just use them more and more aggressively, a bleed is needed to be 100% sure all is fine with the brake and i don’t mean only the fluid - a mechanic will check everything on it, up to the last bolt. You can see what happened to Aaron Gwin, think in 2012, when he had a brake failure. That’s why some people say “bleed them all the time”, when they are pros. Regular weekend warriors don’t require such a procedure so ofter cause they just don’t ride like pros! Smile
  • 2 2
 Lol. I'm not "trying to be controversial". I don't care about any of that social media game nonsense. I'm just commenting that you absolutely don't need to re-bleed your brakes as often as many people believe you do.-
  • 5 0
 @hitarpotar: opening your brake unnecessarily every race weekend is the best way to introduce issues. If Gwins brakes were working the week before and no one had f*cked with them, they probably wouldnt have failed on him the next week. Dont fix what aint broke...
  • 3 1
 @BarryWalstead: I dont think I made any comment about bleeding something other than bike brakes.

Are you under the impression that riding mellow green/blue trails, puts similar stresses as riding fast blues/ blacks?
or steeper terrain, where youre braking differently, more often, longer, than riding low angle terrain where you might not be braking at all?
All those heating/cooling cycles affect the expansion/contraction of pistons and seals, which allow trace amounts of air into the system, so terrain plays a big part.
I think maybe youre just misunderstanding what I mean about terrain.

Terrain, style of braking/riding, size, weight, etc all play a part on the maintenance of all parts of your bike, your brakes are no different
  • 4 2
 @gabiusmaximus: Its possible that you dont need to bleed brakes often, but maybe others do. Best not to use your own anecdotal experiences to assume what others need to do
  • 2 1
 @gabiusmaximus: Youre prolly right,
theres no prior examples across any sort of motorsport about ensuring everything has been stripped, rebuilt, and put back together. You should get yourself a job as a WC team advisor, you could save them a tonne of money with your incredibly progressive ideas
  • 2 0
 @onawalk: seriously, can you provide any examples from motorsport where brakes are bled between every race? No matter how hard you ride a bicycle, it will never see the heat cycling seen in motorsport, not even close.
Provide some examples of what you're talking about. Not just opinion.

You're getting push back because you've just run your mouth with nothing to back it up. Conversely, several others have referenced how in motorsport no one bleeds brakes like we see in downhill racing.
Cite your sources dude!
  • 4 0
 @onawalk: Ironically enough, I have advised a reasonable number of WC racers and other athletes at the pointy end of mtb in my time. Cos I'm f*cking good at what I do. I'm not "assuming" noone needs to bleed their mtb brakes every few weeks. I "know" no one needs to bleed their mtb brakes every few weeks. Unless they are doing a really crap job of it every time.
  • 3 3
 @BarryWalstead: Not sure I'm following you here.
Maybe take a quick breath, go back and read through my comments. I dont think I ever mentioned anything about bleeding brakes between races. theres a possibility youre jumping to conclusions about things. My original comments to you about terrain, weight, speed, etc all play a factor in amount of bleeding that one might want/feel is required.
My other comment, about the frequency of work that gets done in motorsport didnt say anything about after every race....you still with me big guy?

As far as running my mouth, gosh, you are a tough one arent you?
Pushback from a couple of internet clowns, what ever will I do, go on with my life as I suspect
good luck to you out there, better get yourself a helmet, its gonna be tough for you
  • 3 2
 @gabiusmaximus: Ah yes, the elusive WC DH consultant dropping in to provide insight....Glad youre here to clear things up.
good at what you do eh, good thing too.
I guess you missed the portion of sports psych where elite athletes might "need" certain things to "feel" like theyre in the zone, or the flow.
If Andreas feels that he "needs" his brakes bled, then he needs them bled, thats pretty easy to understand.
and if someone else feels that they "need" theyre brakes bled, well, then they need it.
But look at me trying to explain this to you, an advisor to WC racers....silly really
  • 1 2
 @gabiusmaximus: Ah yes, the elusive WC DH consultant dropping in to provide insight....Glad youre here to clear things up.
good at what you do eh, good thing too.
I guess you missed the portion of sports psych where elite athletes might "need" certain things to "feel" like theyre in the zone, or the flow.
If Andreas feels that he "needs" his brakes bled, then he needs them bled, thats pretty easy to understand.
and if someone else feels that they "need" theyre brakes bled, well, then they need it.
But look at me trying to explain this to you, an advisor to WC racers....silly really
  • 1 0
 @gabiusmaximus: Maybe? I don't think Shimano has chrome lined master cylinders, so their fluid tends to get pretty metallic grey looking after a hard years riding. I mean my brakes still work fine for a slow featherweight like myself, but it does get contaminated.
  • 1 1
 @onawalk: "I guess you missed the portion of sports psych where elite athletes might "need" certain things to "feel" like theyre in the zone, or the flow."

May I refer you back to my initial comment in this thread, where I said pretty much exactly that...
  • 1 1
 @gabiusmaximus: you can stick with what you said, doesn't make it right. MTB brakes get much hotter than cars, ever had your car brakes "fade"? Count the times you've had MTB fade.
  • 2 0
 @Bro-LanDog: lol, you drive you car like you ride your MTB? Easy trips to the store and tours along the hwy? Ever had brake fade on a MTB? You boil your fluid ONCE, it's toast....you get close a few times, it needs replaced.
  • 3 1
 @RadBartTaylor: Yes, I have had my cars brakes fade. I have had the rotors glowing red hot. This doesn't happen on mtb brakes. Ever. Mtb brakes don't get anywhere near as hot as car brakes.
  • 1 0
 @Bro-LanDog: FWIW track cars get more fairly more frequent brake bleed than street cars
  • 1 1
 He also says they’re cheap when in the UK they’re more expensive than both hope E4’s and V4’s with tech 4 levers. If you’re spending more to get Hayes when when that money could go to Hope you’re absolutely nuts.
  • 2 0
 @gabiusmaximus: help me understand when you faded the brakes on your car?

Most guys I know that race full size cars do it once every couple months.

I also race dirt bikes, brake fade is common, rule of thumb is you fade your brake once you replace fluid or it will fade (boil) again quicker. Do I, nope, but if I was after best performance I would....
  • 5 0
 Personally I prefer using my face to brake - this way my brake bleeds itself every time I use it
  • 1 2
 @gabiusmaximus: I didnt miss it,
you just keep contradicting it
  • 2 2
 @BarryWalstead: Cite my sources, sheesh
I raced moto for years, from moto to enduro. Had more than 1 bike, had race day bikes, and practice bikes. had race and qually engines.
My race day bikes, didnt come home with me, and I brought my practice bikes with me to races. while I was out on track, my practice bike got a full tear down and rebuild, full suspension rebuild, top end, muffler re-pack, full brake service. I'd take that bike home with me, and beat it for 2-3 weeks between races. My race bike got a full rebuild after every race weekend. My race engines would make it through a weekend, maybe 2 before they needed a top end.

Hell at one point, I had 125cc motor crammed into an 80 chassis (I was a small kid, and "won" my 80 clas twice, so I had to move up, but couldn't confidently hold a corner on a 125 bike)
In those days, moto brakes were not really up to the challenge, and faded quite bad by the end of a race (outdoors) especially in the heat of summer. So they got bled between races even, cause being good on the brakes, is where all the time is made up....
Hope that helps boss.
  • 1 0
 @onawalk: Haven't contradicted it once.
  • 25 1
 Please bring purple Hayes to constant production, I am jealous of the 150 sponsored rides that took most of the 500 pairs. Please let me have them
  • 3 0
 I think Dirt Merchant still has some pairs. Hit them up.
  • 30 1
 @maximumunicorn: the jump trail has a set of brakes for sale?
  • 2 0
 @Grady-Harris: The Colorado bike shop.
  • 16 0
 I just want to give Hayes a big shout-out for their awesome customer service, especially Matt K. They have a customer for life.
  • 5 0
 It's the whole Hayes group, the help and support I got from Hayes Europe for my Manitou was incredible!
  • 10 0
 I had the purple hayes back in the early 2000s. Used them for many years. Didnt even know bleeding brakes was a thing back then, they just worked hah
  • 7 1
 So what exactly did Kolb's mechanic do to stop his levers moving forward?
The article says the lever setup is interesting but doesn't say what and the pic is just of a brake set inboard a bit but nothing too exciting if you have big hands and like to one finger brake.
  • 5 1
 It's interesting how ok they are with the Galfer stuff. In my experience the hayes rotors and pads work really, really well, and everything else is worse. Especially the shimano rotors, they have noticeably less power and always squeak with metallic pads on my dominions. And the Galfer pads wear 10x faster than hayes pads.
  • 3 0
 You can can use Galfer rotors with any pads in my experience. Love them
  • 1 0
 Shimano rotors got really bad since they moved production to China. And even some JP made XT are not where they were before. However new XTR seems really nice, i just put them on bike and really like how they go. They feel like they are getting less over cooked compared to Galfers (rotors/pads) so there is really nice consistency. But not super huge difference . Galfers are defo very nice.
  • 1 1
 Interesting you mention the Shimano rotors. On my road bike I've got an ice tech CL on the rear and the cheapo the bike came with on the front. The ice tech squeals badly and takes forever to clear grime off when the roads are wet and is generally not as good as the cheapo front. I think the holes have quite rounded edges from how the layers are stamped together, so they don't clean the pads like a normal disc
  • 4 0
 @suspended-flesh: The galfer rotors do seem to be fine. But the downside seems to be quality in terms of getting one that's flat. I bought the new shark rotors and had to spend a good while truing them. LBS said "yeah that's why we don't stock Galfer anymore". They can't afford to waste so much shop time truing eveyrone's rotors. I called Galfer to complain, and they basically said it was normal, and to expect to have to true their rotors. However with Hayes or Shimano rotors, while that may also happen, it's not "normal" it's not to the same extent as with the Galfers.

With Galfer you are paying premium prices for non-premium quality for sure. Not a fan.
  • 3 1
 @litany: Good to know. I have only used 4 of their rotors, so a small sample size. I also use the 'floater' version so maybe there is more room for error. I like that they are made in Spain. I go out of my way to avoid supporting the People's Republic of Fentanyl Precursors.
  • 1 1
 @kusa: I swear to god Shimano brakes are a crapshoot. Between wandering bite points and some rotors that work better than others, it is kinda hard to get consistency. ICE rotors do tend to be the best though.
  • 7 0
 I still vomit in my mouth a little every time I see/hear someone call WC DH "The World Series"
  • 1 0
 Do you, mean the UCI Mountain Bike World Series????
  • 1 1
 The name finally makes sense though
  • 5 0
 Any tips for getting a super touchy bite point with dominions? No matter what I did I could not reduce the lever throw to mimic a shimano feel
  • 1 1
 I'll second this. But I think it just comes down to master cylinder design, and expansion of the system under pressure. Using the shim tool does help, but getting that brick wall feel through the lever at 0-20% to be the same as a properly setup M8120 & M9120 system has, just isn't possible with Dominions (or so I've found). I guess not getting that same feel with the Hayes could be called "modulation", but I've always found that to be a copium excuse for inferior brakes.

Source - Owner of A4's & M9120's
  • 2 0
 I have the Hayes T4 (exact same as A4 just titanium and carbon parts) and got my bite point pretty touchy. I bleed like normal and then lightly tap the brake levers a little to get the pistons 1mm out from flush. Then close the bleed ports. Push the pistons back in so they’re flush, clean everything and assemble like normal. The bite will be a lot better. Also, make sure the olive and barb with the hose was assembled and torqued properly. I had mine leak like the guy described and overfilling them a bit exacerbates the leaking at that point if it’s not done right. Good luck!
  • 4 1
 Great interview, Kevin! Not really surprising to see Hayes brakes on the top step at a world cup. Top-notch engineered brakes and an amazing support crew at the races. Well deserved. Thank you again for all the support at Snowshoe wc last year.
  • 5 0
 "Oh and clean them, clean them all the time."

Anyone have any specific tips? Caliper and rotor? Just spray with IPA and wipe off with a clean cloth?
  • 3 0
 Few things from me:
Hayes customer service is brilliant.
At the begining I had a bit too small space between pads for rotor and very small lever pull for my liking, but it got better with time. Now lever pull is perfect, and there is no problem to set caliper without rubbing.
Rock shox reverb bleeding kit works perfectly with them (just remove the orings)
Calipers may trap some dot fluid around the pistons outside the system, so wash them carefully after bleeding. If you skip that, it may leave fiuid on the pads simulate leak.

I loved those brakes. That's a shame that master cylinders aren't anodised, but I highly recommend dominions.
  • 3 1
 So in recent years I have ran, Hayes, Hope V4, and Trp. I could not deal with TRPs Tektro quality and the fact it takes a whole day to bed the pad and waking up the whole neighborhood at 2am just, just too many things that bugged me about them. (Price, need freedom coast levers, sticky pistons, terrible tapping of the cylinder, who uses a T15 for a bleed port? they do not give you pins when you buy new pads..... and once all set and done its about a sub 800 setup between brakes, rotors, bleed kit and adapters and levers. I could go on all day about it)

I found Hayes had the best clamping force and final bite but I did not like the variable bite point I kept getting when temps got hot and their cylinders, were a bit cheap in my opinion, the bleed screw port/housing snapped on me when I was trying to rethread it. (I swear I was only using the allen bit to reattach it, its just a cap. It does not need any tq nm spec)
And onto Hope loved them, consistent lever pull, quality, basically opposite of the above. But a I found a key thing was the final bite was nowhere near the others especially on a sub 200 lbs rider with mostly steep terrain in southern california.

So I did a Shigura setup in the DOT world and did a T3 Hope lever with a Hayes Caliper, MTX pads red in front and gold rear with Galfer Shark 223/203 rotors Awesome set up so far, I am about one month into it and loving every bit of it. one thing I need to move down the front to a 203 rotor, I am finding it cooling/ optimal temp is not being reached and cooling too much but other than that so far for a 200# experienced rider Im loving it.

Curious to hear others upkeep ideas on the Dominion as, I'm always looking to hear other techies ideas and approaches!
  • 1 0
 So you got a Hope Tech 3 lever connected to a Dominion caliper, is that correct? Why not use the Tech 4 as it’s more powerful? And what problems did you have with the Dominion’s original lever?
  • 1 0
 @hitarpotar: Yes that is correct, I liked the T3 lever shape versus the more straightened one on the redesign. Other than that internals remained the same for the most part both with a linear piston set up.


Original lever has a nice light feel which was cool but just not my thing, I wanna feel some pull back. Other than that the quality just was not to my liking as mentioned with the bleed port screw housing around it cracking, the clamps are cheap, as well as the hardware holding it together.
I did not like the variable bite point (At least I got on the two sets I owned) when temps came up on a charging DH
  • 2 0
 @Aburjakowsky: hm, strange. I have nothing but good stuff to say for the Dominions. I used the previous model - the Stroker Ace - for years and had to use different pads and rotors to unlock its real power. And the Dominion is hands down a complete upgrade in every direction without experiments. I’m a rear brake dragger so i tend to toast rear brakes and rotors - the rear Dominion faded only once, after a 10km brutal downhill run, and only because there was air in the system. A simple bleed fixed it. Other than that, they’ve been completely trouble-free for me. The only change i’m doing soon will be 220 rotors cause i’mve always wanted to try these and was just waiting for Hayes to release them.
As for Hope T3 - turns out it’s the other way around for me compared to you. My fingers didn’t pair happily with the T3’ shape and feel - have a friend with T3M4, i can’t seem to activate them on full power, can’t really explain it, but i just can’t press the lever at 100%, i’m doing it at may be 60-70%: completely ridiculous, i know, but this put me out of the plans to try a Hope (at least the T3). Not sure what the T4 has in its sleeve, but if the feel is not totally different than T3, i don’t think it will be a different story…
  • 1 0
 I've run shiguras, saints and now on dominions. All with good quality rotors and metallic pads. (not recommended on magura but f*ck it)

There is something real good about the brute wall of power that comes with saint....kind of missing that. But i don't miss the wandering bite point at all. Shimano has top class brake pad clearance and that is a huge plus, especially for riders who do a lot of climbing.

The Dominions have bad pad clearance and are dependent on straight rotors; the metallic pads really make an annoying noise if they rub. The power is linear and good, very controllable. Almost no wandering bite point or fade. Lever feel and shape is awesome! They do seem a bit cheap, especially with those tiny threads for the handlebar clamp. Pretty happy with them but the pad clearance and potentially weak threads kinda turn me off.

The shiguras were ok, but this setup is overrated imo. A lot of power but the bite point is really spongy. Also magnetic pistons suck. Might as well go full magura imo.

I've hear good things about shimano levers and trp dhr calipers. Mineral oil, easy to replace damaged lever with any shimano lever, clearance for 2.3mm rotors, saint pad shape....might try these next if the new saint brakes dont come out soon. Also servo wave levers with 4piston shimano phenolic caliper piston setup is apparently good for reducing wandering bite point....
  • 2 0
 It could have been the fact you were using allen keys on torx hardware...

My Dominions have been flawless, and I have four pair in constant use (three MTB's and an E-bike)
  • 2 0
 Not bad brakes, but both callipers have a sticky piston. Tried lubing them with DOT fluid and pushing them in/out with the Hayes bleed block for an hour each and still can't get them moving properly. Anyone have any tips?
  • 5 0
 have you tried using silicone oil instead? I use that for my Hope Brakes

"Hunters Silicone Lubricant"

www.tartybikes.co.uk/lubricants_and_oils/hope_hunter_silicone_lubricant/c541p13843.html
  • 1 0
 I have same issue w Dominions. Next going to try to clean the pistions w IPA and clean cloth. Let’s see. Seems to be a known issue, as the mechanic says to get the pistons moving evenly on a fresh build.
  • 1 0
 @FIN599: First thing I tried was the IPA and no dice
  • 1 0
 @MinTheMerciless: Thanks will add this to my list of things to get next time I order some tires online
  • 3 0
 @1longfellow: on the dominion mtbr forum, the owner of shockcraft.co.nz recommends working out the piston with the half-sized bleed block and let it sit overnight. The idea is this would loosen the square seals and aid in actuation/retraction. cheers!
  • 3 0
 Get them warrantied, if not possible then pop the pistons all the way out soak seal and piston in clean dot fluid, wipe down caliper bore with lint free cloth and IPA, then lube bore with dot fluid and reinstall your pistons, Do not mix other fluids with dot fluid. Only DOT 3,4 and 5.1 can be used. Anything else will make the seals swell. If other fluid was used then this will not help, you will need to buy new brake as Hayes doesn't seem all the individual seals separately.
  • 1 0
 @MinTheMerciless: yup this is the move right here, I feel like DOT only last so long
  • 1 0
 @mtbgangsta: they dont list the seals on their website for sale, however If you Call Hayes, they will hook you up. I required seals for a rebuild. One call and I was on the ball
  • 5 0
 Hayes customer service is great, Blake Z keep it up!
  • 1 0
 @mountainsofsussex: their last chinese series are a catastrophe. They are not lazer cutted but pressed (excuse my english), causing a horrible irregular surface (without mentionning the low quality of the steel affecting the breaking power).
I miss my good old Zee SLX rotors made in Japan which were excellent in term of price, efficiency and durability.
  • 2 0
 That's a shame. I've had this problem with Shimano rotors too, with an uneven surface making bedding in very difficult.
  • 2 0
 @boozed: I've found that there is a huge difference between stamped and cut discs. Shimano are a prime example of this. Their Chinese stamped discs are pants but I really like their cut Japanese discs.
  • 1 0
 @Dartmoor365: Same, I replaced some cut RT64s with stamped RT66s and that's when the problems began.
  • 3 0
 Glad Kolb has his priorities right.
“ It doesn't matter if my race run is good as long as I can get a good finish area stoppie.”
  • 1 0
 Surprised people are giving Kolb crap for that brake bleed advice, in hindsight I really wished I made a point of bleeding my brakes at least once a season. I think the mechanic was more commenting on the pro's getting brake bleeds at seemingly every stop of the WCDH circuit, whereas I used to go years of bike park abuse without brake bleeds and really would've benefitted from doing it more
  • 1 0
 Love the feel and performance of my Dominion T4s. However I cannot seem to get the metallic pads not to rattle even with spreading the pad springs out. It's so bad it makes it sound and feel like my bike is falling apart. If I put the stock aluminum backed semi-metallic pads in there is no rattle at all. My other slight complaint is my rear brake seems to start making noise about two to three rides after new pads are installed. It's not a howl like contaminated or wet pads/rotor but more of a metallic screech. Only seems to happen on the rear and never the front.
  • 1 0
 Try MTX pads, solved that issue I had. I ran red up front and Gold in the rear
  • 4 0
 This write up made me want to buy those Dominions I’ve been considering.
  • 1 1
 Recently purchased a new full Hayes 4pot set up, after burning thru my previous brakes badly, at the recent EDR in Maydena. I’m disappointed in the genuine Hayes brake bleed kit, $100 aussie tokens paid, an they came with exactly ZERO olives. So u cant even do a cut and bleed fit with brand new purchased brakes. Then to compound the disappointment, yes the syringes draw bubble all over the place ( like the mechanic said).

As far as performance goes of the actual brake an disc combo, its early days, and im still on the fence on how they compare ( still running the original organic pads, which i think may be keeping them from really hooking up) . I came from a Shigura set up with xtr levers an mt5 calipers on galfa discs, which worked really well until Maydena.
  • 6 0
 I just switched from Code RSCs and like the a4s way better.
  • 5 0
 The new hayes brakes i bought came with a spare olive and barb in the box, one per side, which cocered me for a cut and bleed. If you didnt get them i would contact hayes
  • 4 0
 The spare olives come with the brakes, not the bleed kit. Go back to wherever you bought the Dominions from and ask. Retail sets come with two sets of pads and a hose olive for shortening/installation. They can also be bought separately.
  • 7 0
 Just got the Pro bleed kit, came with about 6 olives/barbs...maybe they don't like Aussies.
  • 2 0
 I don't think the OEM Dominion kit comes with spares, could that be the issue here?
  • 2 0
 @Dougal-SC: haha, calling out the poor lad for buying them from Germany Smile
  • 1 0
 I recently replaced some Zee rotors with Hayes D-Series and the extra thickness makes the XT lever's free stroke adjustment screw actually useful - the lever throw can be dialled in almost perfectly now. They look great too.
  • 2 0
 Amazing article format, would love to see a lot more like it! These mechanics are a wealth of knowledge and we can all learn a lot from them.
  • 4 5
 "lubricate the square seals with Dot fluid. Do that on a fresh build, it's going to make the retraction super consistent"

No, it's not going to have anything to do with _retraction_. Piston retraction relies on the seals flexing upon brake application and then pulling the pistons back, not the pistons sliding. It might help slightly with piston advance as the pads and rotor wear, but the piston is covered with fluid on the other side, the side that will be moving into the seal when it needs to advance, so it's probably lubricated more than enough already. What pushing the pistons out does is then require you to push them back in, and then the first pulls against the full bleed block will advance the pistons to just the right place. You can accomplish the same just by pushing all the pistons back in before a bleed, no need for the offsetting thing.
  • 2 1
 Are you arguing with the Hayes employee who works directly with the engineers who designed and test the brakes you seem to know more about?
  • 2 0
 @nickmontee: it's super easy to find an explanation of how square seals on brake caliper pistons work, it's not by sliding. Shit, it's even been discussed here on PB (in articles, not just comments) before that caliper pistons don't slide on the seals, they flex the seals and that's what handles the retraction.
  • 3 0
 Here for the Purp.
  • 3 0
 Purple drank?
  • 2 3
 @freestyIAM: they purp mah jerb
  • 4 1
 Purple Haze
  • 2 1
 @generictrailrider: dont drink the kool aid!
  • 1 0
 Hayes: Nothing’s gonna stop you! Me: ….
  • 1 0
 Awesome brakes but why only bottom loading pads??
  • 1 0
 FWIW at least its easy to re-align the caliper with the crosshair grub screws, but I agree it'd be nice
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