Review: Logos Eudae 29 HD Carbon Wheels

Mar 27, 2024 at 20:10
by Henry Quinney  
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There are many wheel brands out there - it's one of the areas of the industry that has seen the largest number of new players in recent years. While it wouldn't be fair to say that these brands aren't creating unique and individual parts, I think it would also be fair to say that some of them have ridden the wave of what other older brands have done in the past and learned from their wins and losses. Logos Wheels could be said to be one such brand. Launched as the wheel-wing of Thesis, which makes semi-customised gravel bikes, the brand really got into full swing when DT Swiss's dual ratchet patent expired.

Logos Eudae HD Details

• Wheel size tested: 29"
• Lifetime Warranty & Incident Protection
• Intended use: Enduro
• Rim dimension: 31mm width, 24.5mm profile
• Hubs: 10° engagement
• Weight: 1765 g (actual)
• MSRP: $1,299 USD
• More info: logoscomponents.com
They certainly aren't alone in this, with many brands seeking to copy or include aspects from the design in the intervening years. And not without good reason—it's reliable, effective and simple.

DT Swiss has since moved on to a single ratchet and fixed piece. While this could be said to be lighter, the two ratchet systems have the benefit of allowing both pieces to float and align with one another. While Logos didn't say, it looked like many of the DT Swiss spares would be interchangeable.

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I like the simple and clean branding.

Design & Specs

The rims use a 31 inner width and share the same rim profile as the Eudae trail wheels. However, the HD versions feature a heavier-duty carbon layup and heavier gauge spokes. The rims aren't front-rear specific and feature 3.5mm of asymmetry. When building an asymmetric rim, the reduction in dish required means that the spokes can be of more even tension, which should make for a stronger wheel.

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Straight pull and centerlock... the comment section will be good at least.

When building carbon wheels, sometimes the manufacturer will reinforce around the whole nipple seat for greater strength and to stop you from ripping the spoke out of the rim. While this is effective, it also affects both compliance and weight. Instead, Logos chooses to reinforce around each spoke hole individually. The rims also feature a mixed modulus layup, with T700 carbon in impact zones in places that will see impacts (the side and lip of the rim) and T800 in areas that will require more of a focus on stiffness. The rims have their holes drilled on an angle to ensure an exactly straight path from the rim to the hub flange for the spoke. This alignment should not only reduce spoke fatigue but also help create a wheel that's easier to true to finer tolerances. Speaking of which, the rim is made to 0.3 mm lateral and vertical tolerances.

The hubs are straight pull, but before you head to the comment section, this is actually done for good reason, and a reason that all riders will benefit from - this wheelset only uses one spoke length front and back, left and right. Using a straight pull hub enables this, and I think it's worth it. However, the centerlock rotor mounts are harder to justify.

The wheels have a max rider weight of 130 kg (287 lb) and are also available with upgraded Enduro XD15 ceramic-hybrid bearings. These will cost an additional $551 over the decent-quality and very adequate sealed Enduro bearings that come as standard.

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Look familiar?

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The bike they found themselves on... hubba hubba.

Test Setup

I've spent the better part of a year riding these wheels on my enduro bike. They've seen a lot of miles around Squamish and many bike park runs over the summer. I've had a few different sets of tires on them, including my favoured Assegai and DH2 tires in a variety of casings. I typically run reasonably high pressures but experimented at times with lower ones, if only to see how the rims handled impacts and whether lower pressures would induce burping.

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These wheels share the same hub as the non-HD version but have a different, tougher rim.

On the Trail

Carbon wheels have come a long way, and the Eudae wheels are right on trend with what you'd expect from a high-end carbon wheel. Comfortable, yet still light yet reliable. It really feels carbon wheels are more often good than they are bad now, which is great for the consumer but sadly bad for the reviewer when it comes to trying to say something unique or different.

These wheels are a good mix of compliance and stiffness. On fast, choppy trails, they offer good tracking and take the sting out of features. That said, they're obviously not as compliant as something like the Berd Hawk30 wheels I also tested last summer, but for something a bit more conventional, they're very good.

Comfort is always a balance, and these wheels also offer the sweet spot of priorities. They're stiff enough through turns, and the wide rim offers a good level of stability for the tire. The bead interface works well, and I have never suffered from burping of any kind.

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I like brands that print the ERD on the rim. Seems like an easy win to me.

Durability

These wheels have seen lots of hot and fast bike park laps, been hit off every root in Creekside, and seen more than their fair share of wet weather riding and washing in Squamish, but they still spin very well. They never required a retention and have been incredibly reliable. Apart from changing tires, I haven't touched them since first putting them on the bike, and really, isn't that what we all want? I often wonder whether straight-pull spokes help with this as a spoke and nipple that could twist without unthreading would mate nicely with a carbon rim.


Pros

+ Reliable and hassle free
+ A great blend of stiffness and comfort
+ No-fuss internals

Cons

- Centerlock only hubs



Pinkbike's Take

bigquotesThe Logos Eudae HD are the real deal, offering reliability, a good ride quality, and a reasonable price for carbon wheels. The rim has some great features and has withstood plenty of knocks over the test period. Henry Quinney


Author Info:
henryquinney avatar

Member since Jun 3, 2014
336 articles

126 Comments
  • 70 26
 The centre-lock system is better. Fight me.
  • 48 16
 I agree. I particularly like how the rivets holding the rotor to the spider work themselves loose providing the sweet sound of rattle rattle rattle
  • 8 2
 I thought I was alone in feeling this way.
  • 7 0
 I've never had any issue with either system other than bolt heads rounding out with 6bolt but that was basically my fault for using a shitty driver. Is there any meaningful difference in weight between the two?
  • 59 14
 The best part is how it's heavier, more expensive, and can't be tightened on the trail without a tool that no one carries.
  • 2 1
 Much better
  • 6 3
 ya.. Why would centerlock only ever be con?
  • 4 2
 @DizzyNinja: that's more of a floating disc complaint I think? Both 6 bolt and centerlock spiders can be connected to the disc that way.
  • 13 1
 @toast2266: genuinely curious how often you believe this happens
  • 13 2
 @toast2266: ...just like your cassette / bottom bracket then
  • 2 4
 @therealmancub: more than never. Speaking from experience (both with my own rotors and others).
  • 11 1
 @toast2266: I have never heard of anyone needing to tighten a rotor on the trail. I learned something today. However, the heavier part is just not true for any hub I have used (Chris King, i9, DT Swiss)
  • 3 0
 @toast2266: Try using Loctite when installing your rotors; it won't happen again.
  • 5 11
flag ridedigrepeat FL (Apr 3, 2024 at 12:07) (Below Threshold)
 Better if you hate your knuckles, hate ease of use, hate being able to remove or replace a rotor with your multitool.

Centerlock is the epitome of a "solution" no one asked for and is objectively worse.

I've seen maybe two stripped 6 bolt bolts in my day... and they were able to be eventually removed and the threads re-tapped.

I've seen dozens of stripped centerlock treads that toasted the hub.
  • 14 2
 @ridedigrepeat: For those of us who fly with bikes, Centerlock is the solution we prayed for.
  • 5 3
 @jgreermalkin: You're nuts. I fly with my bike and I'm not wasting my precious ounces on a giant wrench. I use my multitool and it takes literally 3 minutes on either end... job done.
  • 8 1
 @ridedigrepeat: Would you prefer 6 bolts to hold your cassette on?
  • 5 0
 @ridedigrepeat: Appreciate the slander. Either way, everything is carbon so I fly with my torque wrench, so the centerlock adapter is a few grams extra.
  • 11 1
 @DizzyNinja: I've run exclusively centre-lock for around 15 yrs. I've never had one come loose on me yet.
  • 4 1
 @rrolly: exactly, only once I had it become slightly not tight by not tightening it properly (was building a new bike and for some reason I only lightly tightened it by hand which was very dumb). Otherwise if you tighten it properly like a cassette it will hold forever. Contrary to 6-bolt which e.g. Shimano wants to be tightened to like 3 Nm. I also had one 6-bolt hub where the tolerances were off and you simply could not tighten the rotor without making it twist ...
  • 1 2
 @therealmancub: Things getting more expensive? Seems to happen every year.
  • 2 5
 @jgreermalkin: I just had a centerlock rotor come loose for the first time about 2 weeks ago. Before that incident I was in the "I've been riding both forever and never had a problem" camp, now I've only never had issues with 6 bolt. I won't buy centerlock aftermarket again.
  • 3 5
 @JonnyNorthmore: Your cassette is attached to a freehub that eliminates any anticlockwise torque on the lockring though. Hold your brake on slightly and rock your wheel back and forth, and in theory you could loosen that lockring.
  • 5 8
 This discussion has gone the same way centerlock discussions always go: people who think centerlock is dumb list off a dozen or so reasons why it's worse than 6 bolt. Centerlock supporters spend all their time trying to disprove the reasons why it's worse without providing any real reasons why it's better.

But the fact of the matter is, a review of a $1300 wheelset has become entirely distracted by the centerlock issue. Which for any manufacturer should be reason enough to not use centerlock on their wheels.
  • 7 1
 @TimMog: My centre-lock discs are held on by splines, secured then by the lock-ring. There is no way I am loosening the lock-ring like that.
  • 1 6
flag TimMog (Apr 3, 2024 at 13:48) (Below Threshold)
 @JonnyNorthmore: And so is a cassette. There has to be some tolerance to allow you to slot the cog/rotor onto the splines, and that tolerance will differ across every single one. There is play, and in theory that play could loosen a lockring.
Each system has it's own merits, and disadvantages. I prefer one system over another simply because it utilises the same tool I can use across 90% of the rest of the bike.
  • 9 1
 @TimMog: I don't think I have any T25 Torx bolts on any part of any bike that I own apart from brake disc bolts. I have two bikes that use 6-bolt design and my problem with them is usually that the bolt heads have the structural integrity of mature cheddar. One slip from a poorly fitting tool (usually a multi-tool!) and you're left praying to the biking gods that it isn't chalked. In contrast, my cassette tool fits nice and snug and also works with my cassette (obviously) and my Rockshox Lyrik airshaft cap.
  • 1 0
 @rrolly: I have 3 in my spares bin with loose rivets
  • 2 8
flag TimMog (Apr 3, 2024 at 14:11) (Below Threshold)
 @JonnyNorthmore: Get better bolts and tools then.
None of us are removing rotors often enough that it's worth arguing about, and if anything is actually coming loose on your bike during a ride, you've not done it up properly to begin with.
I was just saying that *in theory*, you could loosen a CL lockring if the conditions were right.
  • 1 8
flag TimMog (Apr 3, 2024 at 14:31) (Below Threshold)
 @JonnyNorthmore: You're welcome.



centrelock sucks... Wink
  • 4 1
 @TimMog: Well I prefer it. It's just better.
  • 6 2
 @TimMog: No, CL lockrings loosening

Fella above claims it's happened more than once, I've never seen/heard of it happening when proper torque is applied. Sounds like user error.
  • 2 0
 I've had a centre lock rotor come loose on the trail before, had to take it to a shop to get it tightened up again mid ride.

Think the one-up tool has a centre lock / cassette lock ring tool on it
  • 1 5
flag RonSauce (Apr 3, 2024 at 15:41) (Below Threshold)
 @therealmancub: it happens, you can pretend people who are telling you it happens are lying, or you can accept reality. They can come loose.
  • 1 1
 I'd not turn down a new bike just because of centerlock, but I'd never buy a new wheelset with it. Why?
More/cheaper rotor choice in 6. Multiple redundancy (XC racers run 3 bolts!). More freedom to shim when mixing new/old/cross-brand.
  • 2 2
 @toast2266: I have lost 5 of 6 bolts on a 6 bolt on a ride. No idea how. This has never happened for centerlock because the lock ring is captured on the axle. My multitool probable has the right torx driver but I don't carry around spare bolts. Arguably you could at least hand tighten a center lock lockring and get out of the woods.

Side note: I once lost 3 of 4 chain ring bolts on a ride too and was just told that I need to replace my crankset due to damaging the spindle from a loose crank arm. I think I need to do a bolt check more often.
  • 2 1
 @FatTonyNJ: but you can mount a 6-bolt rotor on a CL hub ... So the only difference is tools really and how you mount/dismount, not the rotors.
  • 1 0
 @motdrawde: yes there is a cassette tool on it. However, unless you can pull the axle end cap off, the tool won't work. And on my road bike with CL you need to (guess what) remove the rotor before you can remove the end cap.
I've not had a cassette come loose, but I know plenty of others who have, so CL could too. CL hubs and rotors are necessarily more complex to make, so will be more expensive. Chances are if you bend a 6 bolt disc, a reasonable bike shop will sort you out a replacement from stock. Not so sure on CL...
  • 3 0
 Actually it is: with the centerlock there is no deformation of the hub/bearing seat when the rotor is under braking forces.
  • 2 0
 @lkubica: Yes, adapters are available.
  • 2 1
 @therealmancub: Yes, and I said that, did I not?
  • 3 0
 @vapidoscar: If you actually lost 5 of 6 bolts, then you definitely haven't tightened them properly, or used threadlocker. That's on you.
  • 2 0
 @JonnyNorthmore: if they could find an easy way to bolt my casette on I'd take it.

The fewer specialized tools needed to work on the bike, the better.
  • 2 0
 @TimMog: Facts.
  • 1 0
 @therealmancub: It happened to me once back in 2012
  • 1 1
 @jgreermalkin: it’s funny you mention Chris King. CK has the world’s most annoying implementation of center-lock - you have to remove the end cap before removing the lock ring on the rear hub. Failure to do so is a very bad idea. And CK endcaps with their little grub screw are very fiddly. So their implementation ends up being even more annoying than ) bolt
  • 1 0
 @Bro-tato: Maybe this was an issue with Cris King in the past, but I can speak for the last 2 generations of mountain hubs, and this statement is just simply not true.
  • 37 5
 I used to think center lock was a con. Then I started traveling with my bike (air travel). The ability to remove a rotor so easily and you can run an adapter for 6 hole rotors truly makes them superior for that use case. Not to mention many center lock hubs are lighter than their 6 hole counterparts.
  • 14 3
 Much more convenient imo. Never had an issue
  • 2 0
 Only went 6-bolt because Hayes doesn't make center lock rotors
  • 6 0
 @vtracer: just get an adapter. Center Lock can run any rotor, 6 bolt can only run 6 bolt.
  • 3 6
 Then you have to travel with a giant wrench instead of a multitool? Seems like a loss to me...
  • 5 0
 @ridedigrepeat: I looked it up, the tool (Park Tools) is 45grams or .09lbs, its about 1 inch by 1 inch.
  • 1 2
 Haven’t tried in a couple years but every centerlock/centerlock adapter I’ve tried has had a small but not insignificant amount of play.
  • 2 3
 @ridedigrepeat: the problem is rather that you need TWO tools, since you have different diameter for rear and front nuts ... one takes a cessette tool and other takes the shimano BB tool. You have both of them with you if using hg driver and shimano BB...
  • 2 0
 You've met baggage handlers, right?
But least your rotors will be straight when you get to piece your bag of dented aluminium/carbon dust back together.
  • 4 0
 @lkubica: I use the BB tool on both
  • 1 0
 @jgreermalkin: mehhh, that's just another thing to come loose. I'm not that much of a standard loyalist.
  • 2 0
 @jgreermalkin: any chance I can get to use my hypercracker cassette tool. Every bicycle tourer in the 90s had one. Still works on Eagle, but sadly, not with most modern frames.

pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-029
  • 3 0
 I'm with you on this. My first proper bike came with centerlock wheels and out of laziness I stuck to centerlock with any further bike or wheelset, so I could swap parts. In all the years I never had any issues with it, so I really don't get why some people swear by 6bolt.
  • 32 5
 One thing I would love to see in reviews of wheels going forward is the weight of the rims themselves, in addition to the weight of the set.

One of the things I would care about most (in addition to durability and price) in a wheel is how light the rim is, since this is the primary rotational mass. Everything else being equal, a lighter rim is going to be more impactful to the agility and efficiency of the wheel.
  • 14 0
 It's on the website. 480g for the HD version.
  • 7 25
flag Grady-Harris FL (Apr 3, 2024 at 8:27) (Below Threshold)
 Damn you’re a nerd lol, but I think that there are some reviews that include it but it seems like a lot of unnecessary work for reviewers to completely dissemble a rim when the weight on the website will be probably accurate within a margin of 10 grams
  • 48 0
 What would you love to see in reviews of wheels going backward?
  • 13 1
 @Grady-Harris: Typically the companies themselves will publish this info. I am simply suggesting that if you're to go to the trouble of doing a long-form review, to include this as standard information.

I dunno why caring about rotational mass is seen as nerdy. Have you ever felt the difference between, for example, running cushcore and not? Adding even 50-100 grams to the highest leverage point of the wheel is very noticeable.
  • 5 0
 @rickybobby19: all the same letters, but in reverse Smile
  • 4 11
flag wburnes FL (Apr 3, 2024 at 9:00) (Below Threshold)
 @KJP1230: Objectively, it is nerdy, but justified given context.

Anyways these wheels are about 300g overweight for the price
  • 2 5
 @wburnes: these wheels aren’t aimed at xc/dc bikes so the weight shouldn’t be an issue at all, they are also a quite cheap pair of carbon wheels
  • 2 0
 @wburnes: for a $1200 enduro wheelset the weight is pretty good. Lighter than Hunt carbon enduro wheels that are priced similar. I’m sure you can get something lighter and cheaper on light bicycle.
  • 1 0
 @xciscool: lighter maybe, but light bicycle probably isn't cheaper.
  • 1 0
 @rickybobby19: video of them testing the wheels going backward.
  • 2 0
 @wburnes: well, you may want to look at their Gida wheels.
  • 16 0
 "the comment section will be good at least."

Oh Henry, you give us way too much credit.
  • 2 0
 yeah, and how about a hyperlink to take us directly here instead of all this tedious scrolling.
  • 3 0
 @skiwenric: On mobile if you click the little comment bubble it takes you directly here. Life. Changer.
  • 1 0
 @everythingsucks: nice, great for the phone users ;-)
  • 9 0
 Used to be the person to fight tooth and nail for a 6 Bolt hub setup but after my Specialized Crux came with CL, I simply couldn’t go back to 6 bolt and now my mountain bike runs a center lock setup and boy is it so much better
  • 8 5
 If the only gripe on a set of $1200 carbon wheels is that the hubs are centerlock only, count me in. You could easily replace the hubs if it's that big of an issue for you, and still be under the cost of a lot of high-end carbon wheelsets.
  • 11 0
 True, but wouldn't it be easier to replace one's rotors to match the hubs than to replace the hubs to match the rotors? Ideal to not have to replace either, obviously.
  • 2 3
 @R-M-R: Yes, I'm just saying if you absolutely can't stand centerlock (which I haven't had any problems with) you could replace the hubs and bring your own 6 bolt rotors. That said, if you are down with CL, they obviously, just get rotors to match.
  • 3 0
 @R-M-R: Well, I guess they do make CL hub to 6b rotor adapters, but not the opposite.
  • 1 0
 @mahargetan: Those let you use 6-bolt rotors, but you're still using the centerlock portion of the hub to secure the rotor. In my limited experience, the gripe people have with centerlock is the locking mechanism itself.
  • 4 4
 @danielfloyd: as someone who absolutely can't stand centerlock, it seems like it would be much easier to just buy any number of other wheelsets that are also well reviewed, cost about the same, weigh about the same, and don't use stupid centerlock.
  • 1 0
 @toast2266: agreed. And what about frame/hub combinations that require shims to get the disc centered in the caliper? I’ve seen this multiple times with recent post mount frames and hubs from Hope, Chris King etc.
  • 9 0
 @toast2266: If you wouldn't mind replying with one more centerlock comment that would be great. Still not clear to me where you stand on the centerlock issue. Thanks.
  • 2 7
flag toast2266 FL (Apr 3, 2024 at 12:08) (Below Threshold)
 @tbubier: it's bad, and people that like it are bad people.
  • 4 0
 @toast2266: I can see that. Centerlock, self centered, selfish, fish breath. I think we're on the same page.
  • 1 0
 @pmhobson: That's fair, I'd rather have a single bolt on my 6B loosen than the whole rotor.
  • 2 0
 @mahargetan: yes that’s exactly the point I was making.
  • 6 1
 Where are those wheels made? Would love to see this getting added to the product reviews as well.
  • 6 4
 Hard pass on anything sold by Randall Jacobs. This goober was flipping Carbonda frames at 3X the price under the name Thesis. He was constantly hawking his products at bike events in the Bar Area and claiming to be a pro mtb racer despite never actually racing in pro cats. These wheels are probably available at half the price under a different name on Ali Express.
  • 2 0
 They look an awful lot like Elite wheels…..
  • 2 0
 USA Cycling disagrees with you.
  • 3 0
 @wyorider: I have a set of Elite wheels and they're bullet proof. They were also cheaper than these.
  • 7 1
 Are these just open mold rims? If so, price direct is half of this.
  • 5 0
 Great question! Also what is the warranty? @henryquinney please advise.


Why buy rebadged Chinese stuff with a heavy markup?
  • 3 0
 @pdxkid: Hi all, these are not open mold rims that you can just buy in a catalogue or what have you.
  • 6 1
 Looks like a set of Nexties.
  • 11 1
 So many brands are just re-badged generic Chinese carbon. Thats not to say they're bad, but why would I pay double for a set of nexties or light bicycle wheels which have a different sticker? This is real info reviews should be getting at.
  • 1 1
 So are all straight pull spokes “bladed”?
I had a set of SRAM Roam 60 rims with straight pull bladed spokes and I kinda wished they were just J-bend.
Those rims needed a lot of truing, and I didn’t really enjoy holding the spoke with one tool while truing with another.
They were kinda fragile, and eventually failed anyway
  • 3 0
 In a word, no. Reynolds TR-level wheels use Sapim Sprint spokes, which are double-butted but not bladed
  • 2 0
 I really like bladed - if the nipples are tight, you can just hold the flat section easily, rather than the wind up you get in round spokes. And you can easily tell if you're actually tensioning the spine or just twisting it. And if they're loose enough for the hub end to spin, bad things have probably happened to the wheel anyway
  • 1 0
 @mountainsofsussex: I do too! If the nipples are turning free.
Guess that goes for either spoke.
I gave up on truing those rims because of “stiff nipples”. Watching those blades twist and waiting for the nipple to “turn” was painful. And the nipples were aluminum, sometimes crack while truing!
Those rims are gone. I never see them anywhere.
  • 1 0
 For me, the issue is that we have multiple (in this brake rotor) standards where one would suffice.
I’m actually surprised to see a new product with centerlock. Guess the war never really ended..
  • 1 1
 @henryquinney these look like open mold rims. Are they? Would love to see Pinkibke test a couple of models from LightBicycle, Elite, Winspace and compare them to the “brand name” hoops out there!!
  • 1 0
 Hi, these are not open mold, catalogue wheels. Not a bad suggestion either way. Thanks!
  • 3 1
 "Wheels. Just like the other ones for sale. Also expensive."
  • 1 0
 No,these are more round
  • 2 0
 No retention needed, but what about retension?
  • 3 2
 Centerlock is better than 6 bolt. The problem is that people don’t want to buy the tool.
  • 1 3
 2 different tools generally.
  • 8 0
 @Snowytrail: Weird. I use the same tool on both of my hubs and my bottom bracket.
  • 1 4
 @pmhobson: Rear rotor lockring is usually different than the one on the front but not true for every bike.
  • 2 0
 Didn't realize anyone had an issue with CL.
  • 2 0
 That's a hefty additional cost for a ceramic bearing upgrade!
  • 3 1
 We hear ya! Our ceramic upgrade uses Enduro XD15 bearings, which to be frank are the only ceramic bearings we would ever consider riding ourselves. They come with a lifetime warranty, although based on our experiences and their test data, it's unlikely they will ever wear out. We didn't take the decision to offer ceramic bearings lightly, as there are a lot of snake oil options out there focusing on low friction claims. We are offering XD15, because they compliment our goals as a brand of building the most reliable wheels we can without sacrificing performance and elegance.
  • 1 0
 Anyone ever worn Eudialyte?
Omg, it's so joyous!
  • 1 0
 Centerlock tip: buy dt swiss adaptors, lockring is made of steel
  • 1 1
 Wait - what?!? An additional $690 for ceramic bearings instead of normal bearings? WTF.
  • 3 0
 That's not quite right. The XD15 bearing upgrade is $550. It's a lot of cash, and to be honest is not something we recommend for most riders.

What you get with that is the most durable bearings available, which come with a lifetime warranty, and believe it or not, actually get faster as they wear in.

Enduro uses a proprietary steel alloy for the bearing races that is hard enough to stand up to ceramic balls, but unlike the chromium steel races used in other ceramic bearings, is stainless. This allows them to be effectively maintenance free.
  • 2 1
 6 Bolt or Center Lock: Pick one! be a dick about it!
  • 1 0
 Does a center lock rotor mount act as a semi-floating design?
  • 1 0
 dae eudae?

no.
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