Video: Tech Tuesdays - How To Set Up Your Shifting

Oct 24, 2023
by Pinkbike Originals  

There is nothing worse than a bike with poor shifting. Follow along with Henry Quinney as he covers everything you need to know when it comes to fine-tuning the shifting on your rig.

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93 Comments
  • 82 2
 It's not as easy to hate Autoplay when you get such a friendly wave from Mr Quinney
  • 30 0
 I'm a simple guy, I see a video with Henry in it. I watch it. I like it
  • 55 2
 autoplay me daddy Quinney
  • 39 0
 @phazedplasma: Heavens
  • 7 0
 It's easy to hate Autoplay when it's auto-muted at the same time. Maybe put a stache on Mr Quinney and he'll be the next Charlie Chaplin!
  • 2 0
 @phazedplasma:
I get auto play lite- always begins muted. I’ll take it.
  • 22 0
 I saw the derailleur hanger adjustment tool sitting up there on the peg board. That's my first step. Great insight on using two step gear changes.
  • 14 0
 this....after that, check the chain wear.....THEN proceed with the derailleur adjustment. 9/10 times when I think my derailleur needs adjustment its actually my chain that needs to be replaced.
  • 5 0
 @SATN-XC:
Amen to that!
I’m obsessive about chain maintenance, then I throw it away.
Cheaper than a ruined cassette and chain ring!
  • 8 0
 Derailleur hanger alignment is critical and elemental, and should be checked before touching cable tension or limit screws or b tension - but only AFTER making sure the axle is all nice and tight. I can't believe the number of times someone says their drivetrain shifts kike crap and/or their brakes rub, and there's an easy two or three turns of through axle tightening to be had before it's even snug.
  • 1 0
 @SATN-XC: So true! I know that for SRAM they will get too much side to side play before the pins wear and it get's "stretched" past .5 on the chain checker.
  • 8 0
 @SATN-XC: The industry knows way better. 9/10 times when you think your derailleur needs adjustment, you actually need headset routing. Geniuses.
  • 1 0
 @rrolly: LOL!!
  • 13 0
 For B-tension I prefer to use the alignment marking on the back side of the derailleur cage (Shimano). It's very simple, you just align the line with the largest cog and done. Never have to think if you have too much or too little B-tension. I set it up like this the last couple of years and never ever had any issues.
  • 2 3
 SRAM gives you a little plastic alignment tool with the cassette. I used it as per instructions- even at the suspension sag point, and I just now discovered it’s crashing the big cog.
Yes, I used the 52 tooth tool, not the 50.
Setting to barely clear the big cog is where it’s at. Thanks Henry!
  • 1 0
 Do you have a reference online of what that line is? I can’t find it when looking for it on my M8100 derailleur.
Thanks
  • 6 0
 @FunctionalMayhem:

Go to page 21 - si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/dm/MARD001/DM-MARD001-05-ENG.pdf

Sight thru the rear wheel from the non-drive side. The line is on the cage by the upper jockey pulley.
  • 2 0
 I don't usually use it, I found out that if I adjust it a little bit below the line, and sit on the bike, under sag, the cog teeth will be in line with the marked line and THEN it is set up correctly. You gonna pedal under sag, so this needs to be kept in mind.
  • 2 0
 @nnowak:
Thanks so much!
  • 2 0
 @FunctionalMayhem: it’s on the back of the derailleur above the upper jockey wheel. Just wind the b screw tension screw until the line on your mech matches the teeth on your biggest sprocket.
  • 1 0
 I actually mark the tension line on XT and SLX with a silver metal marking pen so it is as easily seen as on the rather pointless XTR derailleur.
  • 16 0
 So.. I.. don't need an app?

No, no, that can't be right.
  • 2 0
 I mean, even with AXS you don't need the app to adjust the shifting.
  • 15 1
 Shimano 12spd has a line on the derailleur for B tension but hey who needs to read the instructions
  • 2 0
 ill send the butler with the bike in the bentley if it needs a tweak , you are right no one reads instructions here
  • 10 0
 You almost broke character there at 3:55 when you reached for the wrong brake haha
  • 8 5
 @Planet-26 No, he reached for the correct brake based where he grew up and must have spent most of his time working on bikes. Plus he was in NZ where they also ride brakes moto style like we Brits do. But now he's living in the bike-nirvana that is Squamish, he should probably be careful with that sort of hardwired slander...wouldn't want him to become an outcast!
  • 8 0
 @ajl-mtb: I've never understood why in NA we go opposite hands than moto. For me, being right-handed, it makes so much more sense to have my right hand be the hand for my front brake. I can use my strong hand with way more finesse for braking than my left hand. Using my non-dominant hand for the rear brake, where a too-strong pull isn't likely to send me over the bars, but rather just start a minor skid, is a way better arrangement. Plus for riding on the right-hand side of a road, you signal with your left arm, so having the ability to use your right hand on your strong brake if an emergency stop is needed while signaling seems like a no-brainer.
  • 3 0
 As a Frenchman who moved to the UK a while ago, I learned left hand front as a kid but relearned right hand front eventually. As I also ride a motorbike this now seems to make most sense all around.

To those who ride left hand front on Mtb but also ride a motorbike, does this affect you in any way? How do you deal with swapping between the two?
  • 2 0
 @froddd: The fact that people can swap is incredibly impressive. For the record, I kinda wish I rode US/EU style, if only for the ease of cable routing and now bike testing.
  • 1 0
 @henryquinney: isn’t it just! Maybe you should do a month-long vlog on switching to US/EU and let us know how you found it
  • 4 0
 @froddd: Ha - I genuinely tried, only on road bikes much - and it scared the living shit out of me. It could be fun to revisit on may an XC bike on flow trails or something though. I don't fancy it in the sloppy tech!
  • 5 0
 @froddd:
I have a friend that did exactly that-Moto on his motorcycle, left-hand front on his mountain bike.
Said it was never an issue.
I don’t believe him to this day..
  • 1 0
 @henryquinney:
To me it’s like left foot braking in a car. I do it 99% of the time, until it’s a full-blown panic stop, then the right foot jumps into action!
  • 9 0
 @henryquinney: The mind works in mysterious ways.
Most people never even realize the numbers are like this on a calculator and a keyboard number pad:

7 8 9
4 5 6
1 2 3
0

…but like this on a phone and on a ATM:

1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
0

Completely the other way around, but nobody even thinks about it going from one to the other…
Apparently our brains can handle that just fine.
  • 2 0
 @froddd: Ride NA-style brakes on bicycles since a kid and ride Moto since high school. Never had an issue, just mentally switch over without even thinking automatically. Lots of people do it more than you think, actually know a few professional moto guys retired and current that ride bicycles NA style. AG is a pretty good moto rider but still has his brakes NA.

Just need to "oPeN yOur MInd"..... more energy, more passion..... I kid
  • 1 0
 @froddd: I rode MTB back to back with motorcycles for a couple decades and never had a problem switching back and forth because they are really quite different. I even hauled my MTB to a race on the back of my motorcycle.

On a motorcycle, left hand is your clutch, left foot shifter, right hand front brake, and right foot rear brake. Even if you match the front brake to the right hand on a bike, you are not matching the other functions to those of a motorcycle. No matter how you set up your MTB, you need to remember that your left hand is not running a clutch otherwise you will be abruptly locking one of the wheels.

Front brake/front shifter on the left, and rear brake/rear shifter on the right just makes sense on a bike. It is actually the current motorcycle layout that is a bit odd. The clutch should be on one of the feet, and both brakes should be at the hands. If you ever get stuck in stop and go traffic on a motorcycle, using your left hand to run the clutch gets miserable pretty quick. For those that drive on the left side of the rode, it would also make more sense to have the foot shifter on the right side. I am pretty sure the weird mix that is the current motorcycle control layout is just a legacy of mechanically actuated controls that predate hydraulics. My first motorcycle had a rear drum brake that was actuated by a long steel rod that was attached to the foot pedal. The clutch was cable operated.
  • 1 0
 @nnowak:
I want left-hand/rear brake on my next Moto bike!
And then a good slipper clutch..
  • 1 0
 @froddd: I've ridden motorcycles for close to 3 decades, bicycles for even longer than that. Never had any issues switching back and forth. I think that's 'cause on motos you switch gears on the left (left hand clutch, left foot shifter), and stop on the right (front brake right hand, back brake right foot).

I think if I were to switch the brakes around on my mtb I *would* get confused though.

Can't explain why, but it's just never been an issue switching between bikes and motos.
  • 2 0
 @nnowak: good point about the clutch, I’ve never got confused by that. I guess the brain just switches the whole body into a different context and adapts muscle reflexes accordingly.

Left lever for rear brake is the way powered scooters are setup, it does make sense having all breaking done with hands but I don’t think foot clutch would work — think slow traffic and having to stop!
  • 1 0
 @nnowak: I _think_ some old British motorcycles had brake and gear shifter on different side. Don’t quote me on that…
  • 1 0
 @froddd:
How about the old school MotoGP left hand thumb brake Mick Doohan came up with for rear braking?
Like an ATV throttle on the left, underside of the bar. Plenty of room for a clutch lever.
I like left hand rear brake moto because I can still work that brake with my foot off the peg.
  • 2 0
 @WhateverBikes: Well no, it does actually confuse when I've got to dial a number from a computer keypad which I'd otherwise dial from a phone (which is getting less common these days). But for the ATM, it is the shape of the PIN-code which I've got hardwired in my brain. If I need to know the actual number, I really need to reconstruct it.
  • 1 0
 @Flc3344: so said emergency stop will send you out the front door while signaling with your hand... haha!
  • 1 0
 @henryquinney: the ease of cable routing does exist, and it is outside of your preferred through headset. This age old, archaic way... I believe it is called external...? Hahaha Big Grin
  • 1 0
 @Untgrad: You're a double pedaler in a vehicle? Is this how people with automatic transmissions drive? The finesse you have using your right foot on the throttle directly translates to the finesse you will have when applying the brake...
  • 1 0
 @WhateverBikes: you think it may have something to do with the fact that the corresponding number is printed on each button...mindblown!
  • 4 0
 Regarding the outer limit screw, specifically for Shimano 12-speed, Shimano's directions for the 12-speed Rear Derailleur say to line the center of the top jockey wheel with the outer edge of the outer cog. If you align the center of the jockey wheel with the center of the outer cog, every shift will be biased toward the spokes and will potentially make rubbing noises with the next bigger cog. Setting the outer limit screw not only sets where the derailleur starts but it also determines the overall location of every shift across the cassette.
  • 1 3
 No, cable tension sets the overall location of every shift across the cassette. If cable tension is set correctly, the upper and lower limit screws are largely superfluous.
  • 7 0
 @nnowak: Nuance:

ONCE cable tension is set correctly, the upper and lower limit screws are largely superfluous.
IN ORDER TO set that cable tension correctly, you need to start with the derailleur in the right position, and you do that… by setting the high gear limit screw correctly.
  • 1 0
 @nnowak: Outer limit screw has a direct influence over the starting location of the derailleur. If the starting location is off, every shift point will be off. The cable tension barrel adjuster is to dial in the perfect cable tension. Yes, cable tension will influence shifting performance up and down but it does not determine the location of each shift point.
  • 23 16
 For SRAM users: save your time, get Shimano
  • 5 1
 For shimano users, save your time and go single speed.
  • 1 2
 For single speed users, save your time and get a gates pinion drive.
  • 5 0
 @thustlewhumber: For pinion drive users, save your time and get a razer scooter.
  • 4 0
 I set the limit screws before adding the chain and connecting the shifter cable. Those tiny alloy screws can be soft so prefer to adjust them whilst the system isn't under tension.
  • 1 0
 They're mostly not under tension in normal operation. High-limit only sees anything when in 12th gear, and if the cable is loose in that gear, and it's only fighting the return spring at its lightest. Low-limit only sees "tension" when the mech gets pushed inboard when in 1st or 2nd gear.

In fact, doing it without the cable installed guarantees there will be "tension" on the high-limit.
  • 10 4
 How to adjust a derailleur
Step 1: Buy a single speed
Step 2: Get tough
  • 3 2
 Odd.
1: make sure chain length is correct at full compression.
2: Set limit screws. Jockey wheel should be in line with gear 1. Last gear should be half width away toward derailleur. To help your site lines, you can push the jockey wheel toward the cassette
3: Connect chain and set B-Gap at sag on gear 2 (SRAMS tool is awesome for this)
4: Click shifter to last gear (hardest)
5: Connect shift cable tight enough that there is ALMOST tension and/or tighten it in (clockwise) 3 turns.
6: Now shift up and down and adjust shifter barrel till smooth. Clockwise will speed up shifting towards harder gears. Counter clockwise will speed up shifting toward easier gears.
  • 4 1
 RE #2: You don't even need to sight the jockey wheel with the small cog, just tighten the H limit until the chain jumps up to the 2nd smallest cog, then back off until it drops onto the smallest cog. Treat your limits like a go-no-go setting.

Then I normally connect the cable and begin adding tension on each click as I move up to bigger cogs. Indexing is normally pretty close by the time I'm in the big cogs, then set b-gap and low limit. Full setup shouldn't take more than 5 minutes if the cable is lubed right and hanger aligned..
  • 1 0
 @GTscoob: I am going by SRAMS documentation. May not need to, but alas it works every single time. Also setting b-gap later in the stage is not practice. IE shifting will be crap no matter what if b-gap is off too far.
  • 5 0
 More videos like this please Smile
  • 6 2
 Less review videos of bikes that no one likes or will buy, and more of these
  • 1 0
 Solid instructions, though I would add two steps (already mentioned in the comments), and start off slightly different:

• Check if the derailleur hanger is straight. Most people don't have the specialized tool for that, so just eyeball it as good as possible.
• Check the chain wear. A chain that has elongated (not 'stretched') considerably, it often has gotten so flexible that it doesn't shift all too well anymore.
• Loosen the cable clamp bolt.
• Set the high gear limit screw. The derailleur is pulled to the right side by the spring, while not being influenced/stopped by the cable tension, so nothing is hindering a perfect setting.
• Put the cable tensioner (or tensioners, if the derailleur has one too) in a position where you can slack the cable a bit if needed, but more importantly make sure there's enough windings to tighten it, as that is needed much more often, especially with a new cable because that will have some cable stretch after a while.
• Only now clamp the cable again, with some pre-tension.
• Check that the derailleur instantly moves to the left when you start pushing the shifter paddle. If it doesn't, use the tension screw to eliminate the slack on the cable.
• Set the B-screw (like instructed in this video)
• Run through the gears (all but the lowest gear) to check the indexing both ways.
• Set the limit screw for the lowest gear.
  • 2 0
 I guess you forgot to disengage the clutch and then reengage it at the end.
  • 1 0
 @henryquinney - Solid tech video with some great tips, and advice on proper setup. Think it might be worth noting some of these steps wouldn't apply or how they differ for say Sram Eagle and especially for the T-type transmission. I'm sure most people watching this here understand but the "DIYers" of the world prob don't understand the differences. Just a thought from a professional mechanic who enjoys and values these type of videos.
  • 1 0
 I usually set limit screws and b tension before mounting the cable by actuating the derailleur with my hand. Chain just doesn't have to want to go further than the smallest and largest cog while not make any noise. I reduce b-tension to the minimum until it makes noise then push it back a little more and that's it. Once I have done that, I set the tension dial and mount the cable the same was as Henry.
  • 1 0
 First thing I notice is you say, line the high limit screw with the centre of the cog, but you don't (as per SRAM instructions) you line it up with the outside edge of the cog, not the centre. The small limit screw though, does line up with the centre of the biggest cog. Am I correct? That's how I do it, it works.
  • 1 0
 Great video. One thing I think Henry missed stating is to make sure you shift all the way to the highest gear before tensioning the cable. The bike is shown that way, but I'm sure there are some watching who would miss this crucial step
  • 2 0
 Yep… shows dialled with crisp clean changes up on the stand… On the ground it’s Clank’n for buck sakes….on the cruise run…
  • 1 0
 I agree with adjusting the b till the cogs are as close as possible without any interference. For me with Shimano linkglide this is 10mm. The manual and markings on the derailleur had it at 19mm and shifting was garbage.
  • 6 6
 1. check sram app for proper chain length, set-up cog, and switch position 2. Install derailleur and cassette, hand tighten, pull out slack, and torque axel to 15nm and derailleur to 35nm. 3. Install battery and ride
  • 1 0
 Follow these steps to never adjust your shifting ever again www.instagram.com/reel/CxE5NMqrjKj/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA=
  • 2 0
 How to set up your gears
Step 1: buy a zerode with a gear box
Step 2: go ride
  • 2 0
 I always start with the B tension. I like it and Ill try it.
  • 2 0
 i just twist screws til it stops clicking
  • 2 0
 Step 1: purchase gearbox bike

done
  • 1 0
 I do not see any video? Is the content not OK for europeans?
  • 1 0
 This bike looks like a Pink Bike Academy bike?
  • 2 2
 Derailleur , not Derailure. I know the brits hate the french, but this is as bad as Americans reinventing English.
  • 1 0
 Came down here to say this too. deerailee ur is not a pronunciation. We don't have to like the French, but we should respectfully pronounce it... ps, I like the French.
  • 1 0
 @andyk:
Derail-Your?
Derail-Yur?
De Rail UR?

God do I feel like an American..
  • 1 0
 I thought I was a drivetrain master before 12 speed became a thing.
  • 2 0
 Speed and Power.
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