Review: Starling MegaMurmur - The Big Bird
Starling is a small British manufacturer that has scaled up from barn to factory over the past decade, offering a variety of single-pivot and hardtail bikes all made from skinny steel tubing. The designs may seem simple compared to some of the futuristic carbon frames on the market now, but the details are just as well considered on Starling's models.
New to the Starling lineup is the MegaMurmur, a bike longer in both travel and geometry than its smaller sibling, the Murmur. With 165mm of rear travel, this British-made beast is meant to handle the fastest and gnarliest terrain around.
New to the Starling lineup is the MegaMurmur, a bike longer in both travel and geometry than its smaller sibling, the Murmur. With 165mm of rear travel, this British-made beast is meant to handle the fastest and gnarliest terrain around.
MegaMurmur Details
• 29" wheels
• Steel frame
• 165mm frame travel, 170mm fork
• 64.1° head angle
• 485, 515, 545mm reach
• 455mm chainstays
• 77.2° seat tube angle
• Weight: 37.0 lb / 16.8 kg (as tested)
• Price as tested: $7,500 USD
• Frame price: £1990, $2,800 USD
• starlingcycles.com
• 29" wheels
• Steel frame
• 165mm frame travel, 170mm fork
• 64.1° head angle
• 485, 515, 545mm reach
• 455mm chainstays
• 77.2° seat tube angle
• Weight: 37.0 lb / 16.8 kg (as tested)
• Price as tested: $7,500 USD
• Frame price: £1990, $2,800 USD
• starlingcycles.com
 | The Starling MegaMurmur won't be for every person and every place, and that's okay. It really feels like a bike with a specific purview, and when the track matches those biases it's a thing of beauty. |
Frame Details
The MegaMurmur is constructed with Reynolds 853 tubing all around, with fillet brazed joints and some bolt-on hardware to help increase the frame stiffness. The sole pivot's aluminum hardware is captured by a pinch bolt, to prevent the bolts from backing out under use. There's a top tube bottle boss, which looks a bit different than we're used to, but works quite well and is very easily accessed while riding.
The forward shock mount has a variety of mount locations, all of which facilitate different travel numbers and shock strokes - this layout utilizes the forward extreme of the options. Though my test bike does not feature one, the stock bikes will be coming with a UDH rear triangle, to allow for easy replacement and the installation of SRAM Transmission drivetrains.
The cable routing on the MegaMurmur is *almost* external, but the cables snake through a space at the headtube that prevents some levers from feeding through without disconnecting the hose from the master cylinder. More slender brakes than the ones on test might fit, but in this case you'd still have to re-bleed things.
Starling offers a 7 year warranty on the frames, with a crash replacement service available should you need such a thing.
![photo]()
![photo]()
![photo]()
![photo]()
The MegaMurmur is constructed with Reynolds 853 tubing all around, with fillet brazed joints and some bolt-on hardware to help increase the frame stiffness. The sole pivot's aluminum hardware is captured by a pinch bolt, to prevent the bolts from backing out under use. There's a top tube bottle boss, which looks a bit different than we're used to, but works quite well and is very easily accessed while riding.
The forward shock mount has a variety of mount locations, all of which facilitate different travel numbers and shock strokes - this layout utilizes the forward extreme of the options. Though my test bike does not feature one, the stock bikes will be coming with a UDH rear triangle, to allow for easy replacement and the installation of SRAM Transmission drivetrains.
The cable routing on the MegaMurmur is *almost* external, but the cables snake through a space at the headtube that prevents some levers from feeding through without disconnecting the hose from the master cylinder. More slender brakes than the ones on test might fit, but in this case you'd still have to re-bleed things.
Starling offers a 7 year warranty on the frames, with a crash replacement service available should you need such a thing.
If it were me, I'd route around the brace, unless the master cylinders were skinny enough to snake through.
Shock mount with options.
Sleek little x-brace.
Geometry & Sizing
The striking visual and simple suspension layout of the Starling can distract from the unseen numbers behind the bike's design, but things are far from standard on the geometry front. The most distinct element of the geo chart is the rear center length, with a 455mm chainstay on each size offered. The reach range is extreme, with the size Large I'm testing hitting the smallest figure in the lineup. From there, you have a 515 and 545mm option, clearly displaying the large-size bias of this design. Joe - the mind behind Starling - views the longer rear end as being a balance for reach numbers at the far end of the spectrum, and therefore offers no smaller sizes in this layout. For those who want something smaller than the reach figures available, there are other models in Starling's lineup that will fit the bill.
Other geometry figures are more typical, with a 64.1° head tube angle, 77.2° seat tube, and 28mm bottom bracket drop across the board. There is no geometry adjustment at play, save for the standard cockpit and saddle changes one might make.
![photo]()
The striking visual and simple suspension layout of the Starling can distract from the unseen numbers behind the bike's design, but things are far from standard on the geometry front. The most distinct element of the geo chart is the rear center length, with a 455mm chainstay on each size offered. The reach range is extreme, with the size Large I'm testing hitting the smallest figure in the lineup. From there, you have a 515 and 545mm option, clearly displaying the large-size bias of this design. Joe - the mind behind Starling - views the longer rear end as being a balance for reach numbers at the far end of the spectrum, and therefore offers no smaller sizes in this layout. For those who want something smaller than the reach figures available, there are other models in Starling's lineup that will fit the bill.
Other geometry figures are more typical, with a 64.1° head tube angle, 77.2° seat tube, and 28mm bottom bracket drop across the board. There is no geometry adjustment at play, save for the standard cockpit and saddle changes one might make.
Suspension Design
From a mile-high view, things are very simple on this front. As an unadulterated single pivot, the MegaMurmur is 2.6:1 linear through full stroke, with no funky curves or inflections to keep in mind. The 165mm of rear travel is delivered via a 230x65mm shock, which in this case is an Ohlins TTX22m.2 coil.
| Specifications | ||
| Release Date | 2023 | |
| Price | $2945 | |
| Travel | 165mm | |
| Rear Shock | 230x60mm | |
| Fork | 170mm | |
| Headset | ZS44/28.6 Top, EC44/40 Bottom | |
| Chainguide | Optional ISCG05 | |
| Bottom Bracket | Threaded | |
| Front Derailleur | None | |
| Wheelset | 29" Front/Rear | |
| Hubs | Boost spacing | |
| Seatpost | 31.6mm | |
Since there aren't stock builds for the Mega Murmur, I cut the embedded spec sheet down to the basics. That said, there are some signposts I'd recommend for the build on the Mega, should you decide to build one from the frame up.
1. You could get away with a 36mm stanchion fork just fine, should you want to shave the weight and can source one with 170mm travel. The 38mm Ohlins fork felt good, but I think the stiffness differential between fork and frame can start to feel odd in some circumstances.
2. I'd highly recommend riser bars to help raise the stack height a bit. I ran the Starling with 40mm risers for most of the test period, and was more than happy with the climbing and descending feel.
3. Avoid overly-stiff wheels on this build, as they make the frame feel like a bit of a wet noodle. With wheels that have some flex to them, the bike as a whole feels more cohesive. I tried some rather stiff hoops, and didn't love the feel in supported corners, in particular.
Test Bike Setup
As mentioned above, there are no stock builds on the Mega Murmur, with a host of component options available to let you build things up as you please. This means more choice, for better or worse. My bike came with a "typical" build that the folks at Starling have been sending out, so I'll briefly comment on some of the key elements without getting too into the weeds.
The Ohlins suspension was fairly simple to set up, with only some fussing required to get the dual-chambered fork pressures correct. The tires that came on the build were completely inappropriate for the intended purpose of the bike, so I quickly swapped on some rubber that I'm very familiar and comfortable with: a Specialized Hillbilly/Butcher combo, both with the Gravity casing.
I opted for a higher rise bar for most of the test period, and did some experimenting with wheel stiffness, but otherwise the bike was unchanged.
As mentioned above, there are no stock builds on the Mega Murmur, with a host of component options available to let you build things up as you please. This means more choice, for better or worse. My bike came with a "typical" build that the folks at Starling have been sending out, so I'll briefly comment on some of the key elements without getting too into the weeds.
The Ohlins suspension was fairly simple to set up, with only some fussing required to get the dual-chambered fork pressures correct. The tires that came on the build were completely inappropriate for the intended purpose of the bike, so I quickly swapped on some rubber that I'm very familiar and comfortable with: a Specialized Hillbilly/Butcher combo, both with the Gravity casing.
I opted for a higher rise bar for most of the test period, and did some experimenting with wheel stiffness, but otherwise the bike was unchanged.
Dario DiGiulio
Location: Bellingham, WA, USA
Height: 6'3" / 191cm
Inseam: 34" / 86cm
Weight: 185 lbs / 83.9 kg
Industry affiliations / sponsors: None
Instagram: @danger_dario
Location: Bellingham, WA, USA
Height: 6'3" / 191cm
Inseam: 34" / 86cm
Weight: 185 lbs / 83.9 kg
Industry affiliations / sponsors: None
Instagram: @danger_dario
Testing Info
Go for a big ride, make sure it's rough. The climbing abilities of the Starling facilitate some significant days in the saddle, and the descending qualities bias towards natural and faster-paced terrain. This unique beast is a good partner for such outings, and served me well on many of the sort.
Climbing
The MegaMurmur climbs remarkably well for a bike of this travel bracket, facilitating quick and efficient travel over natural and buffed terrain alike. I put in a few massive days on this bike, and never felt that the bike was holding me back on the climbs. That's why my recommended ride features a healthy dose of pedaling in natural terrain - that's where this bike shines.
Though the scale says otherwise, the Starling never felt like a particularly heavy bike. I think the efficiency makes up for some of the extra weight here, but if you're sensitive to such things it may be worth trying to cut weight as much as possible. This build isn't particularly light, but you wouldn't want to skimp on too many parts and take away from the descending abilities.
I'd call the MegaMurmur a pretty composed pedaling platform, though the rear wheel moves enough to keep traction over rough and loose terrain without bumping you around too much. There's a nice balance between support and give when you're on the pedals, and balance between the wheels feels natural. This is due in large part to the longer rear center, which keeps the front end planted while in and out of the saddle. I never felt as though the wheelbase was too long for tricky technical climbs, though that might change as you climb up the MegaMurmur's gigantic sizes.
Descending
I got a lot of on-trail questions about this bike, no doubt due to the atypical look and strikingly skinny silhouette. When asked how it rode, my common refrain was "It's good at some things, and bad at others."
That sentiment is true of pretty much all bikes, as everything contains some sort of compromise, but I found the highs and lows on the Starling to be a little more pronounced. It really does feel like a bike made for a specific application, as opposed to the typical generalist approach.
The shining highlight of the MegaMurmur was its ability to track across natural and off-camber bits of trail. The chassis flex and suspension traits lend themselves to conforming very well to terrain, staying on line where you might otherwise get pushed down into the gut of the trail or off into the bushes. For certain areas, this might be all you have trail-wise - and the Starling would be a good choice.
For my neck of the woods, our trails err more on the side of steep, supportive, and jumpy, the former two of which posed some issues for the Mega. Steeps feel fine when you're off the brakes, but when the trail requires slower, pickier descending, the Starling felt much less confident than other bikes in this travel bracket. You end up riding the fork pretty heavily, and have to consciously hang off the back a bit more than is ideal. Supportive corners simply highlight how flexible the frame is - at times it felt as though my feet were sweeping into the turn as my hands were heading where I intended to go. Slightly exaggerated for effect, but that's my best attempt to describe the sensation.
I contacted Joe at Starling to inquire about the frame flex, particularly around how that might scale as the rider weight goes up. I'm only 185 pounds, so it seems possible that someone with more mass would exaggerate that sensation even more. He argued that the longer stays does bias towards more straight line stability over cornering, and that perhaps someone who wants to push hard into corners might be better served by their Twist model. I think the MegaMurmur has potential to handle all of these situations, it just requires some finesse and a light touch.
Despite those compromises, the Starling is fast. Point it down the right kind of trail, and it really does handle wonderfully, with a lively character that allows you to adjust your line at speed and keep the pace up. It feels like a tool with a specific use case, and when applied right it really shines.
Starling Mega Murmur
Frameworks Trail Bike
How Does It Compare?
The MegaMurmur's defining feature within the Starling catalog really comes down to the rear center length, which is long enough to still be something of an outlier in the industry as a whole. I think the longer rear end is the way for bikes meant to go fast downhill, and have found that exhibited very nicely on another bike I've spent a ton of time on: the Frameworks Trail Bike. Both bikes feature 455mm rear center lengths, though the Frameworks sports a 27.5" rear wheel and the Starling is a full 29". Other geometry figures like reach, head angle, and stack are very similar between the two, with bottom bracket drop being the only outlier - the Frameworks is about 6mm lower.
The extra pivots on the Frameworks seem to be helping in serious terrain, as the bike recovers from hits better and has a more consistent ride height when you're applying the brakes. The two chassis' couldn't be much more different stiffness-wise, and I can see the value in each to the right rider. That common factor in the rear end length comes through as a commonality though, yielding a very stable feel at speed, which allows you to lift your gaze and keep the pace up. Neither of these are particularly common bikes, but I think the findings they've yielded will trickle into more production models with time. Even that Rocky Mountain Altitude I've been riding is close, with a 450 rear end and aggressive geometry throughout.
Which Model is the Best Value?
There's only one option here, so the value debate is a pretty easy one for the MegaMurmur. To me, this is a great bike to buy as a frame and build up with parts that speak to you, matching the idiosyncratic nature of the frame itself.
![photo]()
There's only one option here, so the value debate is a pretty easy one for the MegaMurmur. To me, this is a great bike to buy as a frame and build up with parts that speak to you, matching the idiosyncratic nature of the frame itself.
Technical Report
Shimano Saint Brakes: Over a decade old, and still my favorite Shimano brakes. The Saints were too powerful before it was cool, and the binary lever feel is something I get used to pretty quickly and ultimately enjoy on trail. The ergonomics could be improved slightly, but the power, firm feel, and dependability of the Saints remains impressive. That last point is particularly impressive, as I tend not to have any of the consistency problems endemic to other Shimano 4-piston brakes.
Ohlins Suspension: The suspension on this bike worked well, but wasn't without some major quirks. The shock's pronounced topout knock is pretty common on the TTX22m.2 models, and though it can be mitigated with a rebuild, I've had too many exhibit this issue to think it's an unusual occurrence. The fork matched the character of the bike very well, and was trouble free save for a click/ping sound that would occur consistently as you transitioned from the compression to the rebound stroke.
Shimano XT Drivetrain: I rode this bike through the winter, which means the clutch on the XT mech was roached within about two months. That's a pretty typical lifespan for those in my neck of the woods, so luckily I've got the special grease required for a rebuild - and it's not too labor intensive. Ultimately the shifting does suffer for it, but you can get things feeling crisp with some tender love and care.
Pivot Hardware: The single pivot of this bike had a tendency to come loose after a few rides, despite adding Loctite and making sure the pinch bolt was tightened around the hardware. The hardware never backed fully out, but would regularly be a few turns loose. Just a little thing to keep in mind and check on, but also a bit frustrating.
![PC Eric Mickelson]()
Shimano Saint Brakes: Over a decade old, and still my favorite Shimano brakes. The Saints were too powerful before it was cool, and the binary lever feel is something I get used to pretty quickly and ultimately enjoy on trail. The ergonomics could be improved slightly, but the power, firm feel, and dependability of the Saints remains impressive. That last point is particularly impressive, as I tend not to have any of the consistency problems endemic to other Shimano 4-piston brakes.
Ohlins Suspension: The suspension on this bike worked well, but wasn't without some major quirks. The shock's pronounced topout knock is pretty common on the TTX22m.2 models, and though it can be mitigated with a rebuild, I've had too many exhibit this issue to think it's an unusual occurrence. The fork matched the character of the bike very well, and was trouble free save for a click/ping sound that would occur consistently as you transitioned from the compression to the rebound stroke.
Shimano XT Drivetrain: I rode this bike through the winter, which means the clutch on the XT mech was roached within about two months. That's a pretty typical lifespan for those in my neck of the woods, so luckily I've got the special grease required for a rebuild - and it's not too labor intensive. Ultimately the shifting does suffer for it, but you can get things feeling crisp with some tender love and care.
Pivot Hardware: The single pivot of this bike had a tendency to come loose after a few rides, despite adding Loctite and making sure the pinch bolt was tightened around the hardware. The hardware never backed fully out, but would regularly be a few turns loose. Just a little thing to keep in mind and check on, but also a bit frustrating.
Pros
+ Excellent pedaling performance
+ Composed and fast in the right terrain
+ Well thought out frame details
Cons
- Frame flex
- Unusually large size bias
- Suffers in steep and supportive terrain
Pinkbike's Take
| The Starling MegaMurmur won't be for every person and every place, and that's okay. It really feels like a bike with a specific purview, and when the track matches those biases, it's a thing of beauty. I hope to see this design evolve with time, but part of me suspects to see it continue to march to its own unique beat, waiting for the right rider in the right place. |
Author Info:
Must Read This Week
Sign Up for the Pinkbike Newsletter - All the Biggest, Most Interesting Stories in your Inbox
PB Newsletter Signup
Just ride the size recommended for your height! for the reviews sake! You chose a Large (too small by the recommendation of manufacturer) and then make comments like this:
"You end up riding the fork pretty heavily, and have to consciously hang off the back a bit more than is ideal"
Perhaps if you chose the Recommended size, an XL, this wouldn't be the case! You had the same comment on the Optic size 4 you tested that had an even longer reach but still wasn't what the size the manufacturer suggested for you.
I now get disappointed when I see your the reviewer of a bike I'm interested in because you have a history of disregarding manufacturer recommendations on size then making comments like the one above.
For the sake of a review, please just try to size bike how they were intended per the company that did the R&D and testing. It would lead to a more credible review.
stop this nonsence: "At 6'3", the calculator recommended that I ride a size 5 bike, with a 522mm reach, but I'm certain that the size 4 I tested was the right bike for me" - taken from the Norco "review".
Don't be a dick
It would certainly make the reviews more informative for the readers...
The manufacturers can only recommend ranges, but there is a major preference element that applies and you can see this across bike brands if you know how to read geo charts. I've had plenty of criticism of reviews here before, but I'm not sure this is really such a great criticism to lean on given how sizing can go numerous ways in this era and manufacturer recommendations are just that, a recommendation, not set in stone.
As for my time on the Murmur, I can comment a few things. Mine is using the recommended size of L (I'm six feet tall) and I didn't notice any excessive body movement needs. That meaning, I didn't feel the need to really heavily weight the front or hang off the rear of the bike. If anything, it's the most centered feeling bike I've had and it was a revelation in longer chainstays considering every bike I'd had up to that point was 10mm shorter in the rear. It was a learning experience cornering in particular, where you really had to work at not moving around and weighting the front or rear, you could just lean the bike over and it would track the arc of the corner really well. It's a very balanced feel that keeps you centered and didn't require conscious effort to move forward or rearward. That's the standard Murmur, the Mega has similar geo (same front triangle IIRC) with 10mm longer stays, so take that FWIW, although I suspect it plays even more to that effect. The downside is when you try to preload, it's a more conscious, significant movement especially if you need to clear the rear wheel over something. I can't jump for shit so I can't speak to that.
I'm now on a L Geometron G1 with a 515 reach (Same as the next size up) and I can see why someone sizing up on the Murmur or Mega would need to feel like they had to heavily weight the front. This is a preference thing, again, the same way a smaller size might emphasize a more rearward body position. The larger size might balance out better with the single pivot, but that's just my theorycraft. If you want a bike that you can ride the front of and really need to push into, then the larger size might be ideal. If you are aiming more for a centered feel, then get the recommended size for your height. There is a preference element here and it depends on how you want to ride the bike.
as another commenter, i'll just reply the same way you did when you had your singular chance:
by far the lowest intelligence move is to choose a bike from sizes.
" but but but tHe maNufaCtuRer reComMendS!" is such a dumbf*ck statement. specialized and other brands realized that and implemented the S1-5 system.
keep raging, idiots. it only displays your lack of experience on the bike, if any.
The Point is, By choosing an undersized bike due to a preference, your not allowing an objective view on how the Designer intends this bike to fit, or ride. How it is intended to flex based on size of the person riding. Whether its designed to be a Stable confident ride or a jibby ride, better for down or up ect. Thats what Reviews are for. The designer clearly intended the geo to of the XL, sorry, S5, to be ridden by a taller person like Dario, and even stated it in the GEO chart. So If he put his preference for smaller bikes aside, the review could have been done and he wouldn't have had the comments that come from riding a bike to small like "hanging off the back". It may have been more confidence inspiring for him. And its even possible that the XL/S5 has thicker tubing for larger riders resulting in a less flexy bike. And at the end he could state "If I were to purchase I might size down do to my preference for smaller bikes. Also assuming that changing the name of the size of bikes means "there is no wrong size" is not correct.
It didn't handle brakebumps in corners well either for same kind of reason, had as much laterial travel as it did vertical.
All done back to back with other steel full sus frames that didn't have this problem.
Also I'm about 80kg so fairly middling in terms of weight!
Can't imagine how bad it'll ride with a bit more strength and mass behind me.
2m/90kg I suspect this bike gets spooky under lateral loading.
It's really not as bad as people are making it out to be. The only exception would be if you are really smashing high speed, flowy terrain with a lot of berms, or as this review calls it "supported terrain". You'll pick up on the flex more then, but it's far from uncontrolled. I'm not sure I'd recommend the bike to someone riding that sort of thing, but despite being less than ideal, it's not going to cause you to eat it.
It's one of the better bikes I've ridden when it comes to natural terrain, which is what it was designed for. If you look at the areas the Starling crew ride in, it'll make more sense why they designed the bike the way they did
Here's a tidbit for you all: years ago I had a single pivot (I've owned a few). Knew the bike very well. Installed a floating brake kit and was surprised how much better the bike performed. So we have a MOUNTAIN BIKE design that performs POORLY under BRAKING?! Brilliant.
From reading and looking at pictures, I think the only thing bad about the Starling Megamurmur is its thin plate where the rear triangle is attached. And the rear triangle tubes could be a bit thicker in diameter. But who would buy it at 17.5kg?
Commencal Meta V5: www.instagram.com/reel/C6oBS-OKxRc/?igsh=bTJucTJycXZrbzFo
The braking performance on the rear does suffer a bit compared to other designs when braking, it will tend to hang up on square edges more than some multipivot bikes, but I've ridden some multipivot bikes that were way worse with this also. The suspension performance, while not on the tier of the best of all bikes out there, is still very good and better than a lot of multipivot bikes I've ridden.
Strangely enough, I tried a firmer compression tune and it seemed to mitigate it a fair bit (although I'm on a standard Murmur w/ the EXT, I haven't tried long travel mode with the TTX22M2).
Reviews don't help here, PB guys say exactly what you say about AR and then love the Raaw Madonna with like 40% AR, go figure.
Small, chunky stuff braking is fine. Brake bumps, chunky erosion, etc, again fine. It's when you hit a square edge that you feel the rear end can't move out of the way. I suspect (and may be mistaken) it has to do with the axle path, as the bikes I've ridden that do this well have a more rearward path.
Or Geometron, their SMALL is 475
My Starling frame & Ohlins shock has been the only consistent thing on my bike.
Great Frames maybe not for everyone
I only sold it because I wanted more Reach and a Steel Acto5 P-Train (High Pivot Witchcraft )came by.
Why aren't the fillets filed/sanded down, as is the standard for custom builders? The fillets don't look especially clean- compared to say, Rosario Bike Co....
According to Reynolds, 853 air-hardens- "strength can actually increase after cooling in air immediately after welding." Tig welding produces up to 3400°F- but brazing happens under 1000°F. Some builders only TIG weld 853 for this reason, so I'm curious if the benefits of 853 are lost when it's brazed?
Years ago, I used to work for a custom builder who did lugged frames, fillet brazing and TIG welding. Their take was that the benefits of fillet brazing main tube junctions are aesthetics and lower temps allowed for thinner tubes = lighter bikes- especially road or touring bikes. Mountain bike head tubes would always be TIG welded for better yield strength, especially when working with 853. So I'm just wondering what the logic is behind an unfinished fillet brazed joint on an Enduro bike.
Filing just adds a massive amount of time (and cost which we would have to pass on to customers), and actually risks the strength of the frame.
Hobbyist builders file them, because firstly they have the time, and secondly because they aren't smooth 'off the torch'.
Come and see the bike getting built and you'll see how good the brazing is...
One of the best examples of form & function combined in the biz.
They look elegant and refined, the build quality is very impressive and the steel feel is distinctive and very enjoyable.
Canyon Strive, Size Large, 485mm reach.
Specialized Ednuro, S4 (Large), 487mm reach.
Santa Cruz Megatower, size Large, 475mm reach.
Yeti SB160, Size Large, 485mm reach.
ORbea Rallon, Size Large, 485mm reach.
AND THE MASSIVE OUTLIER
Starling Mga Murmur, Size Large, 485mm reach.
Mo-tor adjective: giving, imparting, or producing motion or action.
I am 6'2" with long arms and I am not comfortable on a bike that is much past 485-490mm of reach. Seems wild that your smallest sizing is ideal for people 6' and up.
Canyon Strive, Size Large, 485mm reach.
Specialized Enduro, S4 (Large), 487mm reach.
Santa Cruz Megatower, size Large, 475mm reach.
Yeti SB160, Size Large, 485mm reach.
Orbea Rallon, Size Large, 485mm reach.
AND THE MASSIVE OUTLIER
Starling Mega Murmur, Size Large, 485mm reach.
The Starling's SMALLEST size is everyone else's size LARGE. "Seems wild that your smallest sizing is ideal for people 6' and up." By the way, the reviewer is 6'3" and he picked the smallest size available...
Now you tell me - what did you think I was saying, or the point I was trying to make?
Doesn't Starling have other bikes for shorter people with shorter chain stays, like the Twist MX?
According to a quick google, roughly 13-14% of the male population in the EU/US are 6' tall or over. Seems a "unique" strategy to build an entire bike model targeting exclusively 14% of the target demographic.
Also, I would argue that Dario made exactly the right choice at 485mm reach. Again, I am 6'2" and I feel slightly stretched on my bike that is 487mm.
Again, he did it to reduce chainstay SKUs and get more articles out about his bendy bikes. Most of his bikes are the same 160/130 things so another name = another article.
Dario's 6 foot 3 that is not size large territory lol I'm 6 foot 1 and have gone for XL on my Spectral (505 reach) and can still 180 slider on flat somewhat. I think reviewers should choose the size that they're reccomended lol, expecially when he's complaining about balance
Regardless, I'd still argue that most Dario knows what kind of bike geo he likes. The dude gets to try more bikes than any of us mortals. I can only speak for myself to say that I would hate a bike with 500+ reach, since I already don't love the climbing characteristics of a bike around 485-490.
We should not compromise for flexy noodle bikes.
I haven't had issues with tire rub, but I'm also not pushing into it that hard.
As for frame flex, I know flex is a dirty word, but in the right context it isn't a bad thing. The flex seems to help a bit when you are on tighter, more natural terrain. Basically what is said in this review. It can be detrimental in the wrong situation, but it's not out of control or going to cause you problems either.
But I get it, when your rear end is flexier than the shock itself, then it would flex instead of the shock. So this allows for worse tolerances and most probably will not kill the shock either.
Anyway, there are trails out there that feel absolutely horrible on single pivot bikes, steel or not. The reception of this bike will vary greatly on the kind of trails you ride.
So I think this is a great and honest review. Good job Dario!
In a case where the linkage and swingarm is supported to avoid flexing the shock, then yes I agree, however in cases of a single pivot or other designs that don't do this, the flex isn't going to cause damage to the shock (and may mitigate it). At least it hasn't been an issue for me or any other Starling owner I know.
@The-Spirit-of-Jazz mine didn't come with these, I'm using standard hardware without any issues. I have been tempted to try them, though.
dhsign.it/en/14-fixshox-classic
I believe spherical bushings don't last as long so wouldn't use them unless you have a real reason to.
@dariodigiulio I would suggest trying a progressive spring in the rear. It helped a lot with a few of the negative ride characteristics you described.
Also correcting an error in my earlier post with my conversion to freedom units, I'm 210lb not 110!