VerifiR: Invisible Security Chip that Anyone Can Read
Ever wonder if that Santa Cruz V-10 leaning on the coffee house wall was the one that was stolen from your garage last year? Innovator Jurgen Schmerler developed a security chip that can be molded into a carbon frame, secured with adhesives to a metal one, added in the form of a decal, or concealed under a painted finish. When scanned closely by any smart phone, the chip launches a free app, which then indicates what kind of bike it is, who it belongs to, and whether it has been stolen or not. Reportedly, at least one conspicuous brand is inserting the chip into select production bikes for 2017 and beyond.
| After dropper posts hit 170, it was only a matter of time when one of the dropper companies said, 'Oh yeah?' ...and made a 200-millimeter post. - Heard at Interbike |
| Running a larger cog than you need gives you more than a bail-out gear. You will spend more of your climbing time in the outboard cogs, so your chainline is better. You can back-pedal without the chain dropping down the cassette and you have less wear on the components. - Woody Hole: EWS racer and Hope manufacturing coordinator |
More photos in the Interbike gallery.
We teamed with Osiris, who have been making freeride, bmx and skate shoes for 20 years, to develop a flat pedal bike shoe for everyone. The Prophet is a fusion of Osiris heritage in action sports footwear with ZOIC design aesthetic and expertise with mountain biking performance.
RC
So I got a similar one from Clavicula (err... the company that makes Clavicula cranks...) and it's been perfect... easy to install and trouble free since then. Enduro's design looks really dialed in though.
This is a great solution for those of us unfortunate millions who are stuck with PF BBs.
I dont have any experiance with push fit BB's, are they a tolerance fit like a headset?
If the BB does turn when tightened and it is a tolerance fit I cant see it doing the interface much good when being installed, especially with carbon frames, I can imagine the interference fit would be reduced pretty quickly.
Where the original press-fit cups actually are press-fit, these threaded (con)versions are not.
The Enduro brand version could be slightly different, but the one I got basically turns relatively easily in the BB shell but without any extra play. So wearing out the BB shell fit should be a non-issue.
It's held in place mostly by the clamping force of the BB cups against the face of the BB shell.
I used some teflon plumbers paste between the aluminum cups and the (carbon) BB shell. Trouble / creak / squeak free!
They make them for PF30, BB86/90/92, and BB Right. They even make BB30 and PF30 BBs that convert the frame for use with 24mm-spindle outboard-bearing cranks like Shimano, standard Sram/Truvativ, RaceFace, etc.
Any shop that uses QBP or J&B as distributors can get them.
Not wanting to speak too soon but it was a piece of piss to fit, cost £25 and if it goes wobbly and noisey I will just buy a new one for £25.
Not sure what the beef is really. Its a BB. Its a throw away item. In Britain anyway. That fella will be sumped shortly!
It was a nightmare for installation and removal. I installed that bb on my mojo slr, the tolerance is super tight and require press in one cup first because the thread is not long enough to engaged even if was fully extended.
After pressing in first cup, the other cup was installed by turning since it is threaded. It was a nightmare because the frame and the bb have very tight tolerance, you can imagine if you have to turn the headset cup against the head tube and the potential damage it can cause (a bit exaggerated but principle is the same).
Finally, worst part, it has a rubber ring, it was shifted and causing the bb to stuck, it was a tough time removing it and it surely cause damage to the bb area surrounding.
I'll elaborate my experience if necessary. I just hope my experience can help other bikers.
My conclusion, there are high chance press fit bb will cause noise issue; i saw other's comment and is always 50/50 (half ppl say no problem and the other half opposite). Beside the noise, serviceability is also a big issue for press fit bb or even this new product. The frame design is so lean that there is no room for me to use threaded tool to gently extract the bb out, pretty much only way was hammering. Therefore, my new bike criteria: threaded bb is a must... And i settled on mojo hd3
Hope it helps and good luck
Now I'm glad I didn't buy that Enduro TorqTite BB. I would hope they fixed the situation with their new design above.
The one I got (from THM Carbones... the Clavicula people) is pretty sweet.
Yeah, a threaded BB would be nice, but a ton of bikes come PF so here's the solution to an otherwise less than desirable standard.
Sorry to hear eimechanics34 had such issues with the Torqtite.
The Wheels MFG is a pressfit BB, unlike Torqtite which is a threaded BB designed for pressfit BB shells. So the designs are not that similar. Its not any additional stress on the BB shell to wrench in the Wheels MFG BB the final few millimeters. The biggest risk involves the press in step, which is universal to all PF BB shells. I'm only selling mine because my frame's BB shell has an aluminum insert which prevents the male/female threads of the Wheels MFG BB from making contact. As long as your bike has an obstruction free BB shell, there should be no issues.
Also, eimechanics makes reference to a headset cup and headtube, sounds like a headset install, so I'm confused...
sorry for confusing comment, It has nothing to do with headset, just wanna make a comparison.
After installing first cup, the second cup is screwed in. But the tolerance between my frame and that cup is very tight. However, i have to turn the cup hard in order to install it, and it's rub against the frame. Lube was used but couldn't help much. It's a tolerance issue, but other brand bike frame may work better.
I just want reader to imagine turning a tight tolerances cup against the frame is bad, it'll cause damage, but that was the situation when i installed the Torqtite bb.
"Finally, worst part, it has a rubber ring, it was shifted and causing the bb to stuck, it was a tough time removing it and it surely cause damage to the bb area surrounding."
The large flat poly rings are only to be used on loose tolerance fits. Since the fit was already tight, I'm not surprised the ring gave you such a problem. Unfortunate that you weren't aware that the rings are only to be used "as needed." Normally the rings should be in their own bag with a tag that reads "use when press fit is loose," (or similar wording).
RC
This is unacceptable provocation on Pinkbike. I'm calling in NATO. Hang on tight.
Who gives a shit how big my biggest cog is anyway?
Either way, I ain't buying an Ebike.
Wheels Manufacturing makes aluminum-cup thread-together BBs just like this one from Enduro (and they even have Enduro bearings in them, too...) for a whole lot less money. They start at $75 retail for ABEC-3 bearings, some with the option of black or red cups.
The price does go up for angular-contact bearing models ($100), and for Zero Ceramic models ($175), but even that high-end price is less than the cheapest Enduro-branded BBs.
They make them for PF30, BB86/90/92, and BB Right. They even make BB30 and PF30 BBs that convert the frame for use with 24mm-spindle outboard-bearing cranks like Shimano, standard Sram/Truvativ, RaceFace, etc.
Any shop that uses QBP or J&B as distributors can get them.
But I've installed a number of these Wheels Mfg BBs for customers in my shop after they already bought a bike/frame not knowing beforehand the issues they would face. Fixed them all up with these BBs, and they are all happy that they spent $75 to fix the problem, as opposed to a couple thousand for a new frame.
So yeah, if you can prevent the problem in the first place by buying a frame with a threaded BB, that's the way to go. But if you already have a frame that you like and are having these problems, this ends up being a good cheaper solution.
If your frame has a BB92, this should be what you need:
wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb86-92/bb86-92-bottom-brackets/bb86-92-outboard-abec-3-bb-for-24-22mm-sram-cranks-black.html
If you have a PF30 frame, this should be it:
wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/pf30-outboard/pf30-outboard-bottom-brackets/pressfit-30-to-outboard-bottom-bracket-for-24-22mm-cranks-sram-black.html
Yeah, I don't think I'll be buying into that particular 2017 trend. The double-sack-popper looks intriguing, though.
Anyone else producing a dropper as reportedly reliable at a more competitive price?
- Woody Hole: EWS racer and Hope manufacturing coordinator
Alrighty then..solution: 1x10
On a ''lecock grande'' shaped chamois??
Stanchion wear is always due to one of two things (or a combination of both):
1) Lack of lubrication at the bushing, causing metal to metal wear.
a) Due to not keeping oil level up
or
b) Due to wrong tolerance between bushing and stanchion tube
2) Ingress of contaminants that get trapped and act as an abrasive.
But still a great idea for protecting our investments. Cheers.
ive got some of the new 7iDP Tactic gloves, day glo as yer like, they look cool....
b*llocks to the haters hahahaha
Or bomb down some dh tracks.
So true!