Maintenance
During the whole test period the Carbonjack 29 never missed a beat, with zero issues or niggling problems that needed special attention. It was a case of just grab it and ride every time I headed out. The attention to detail on the Carbonjack extends to the assembly of the bike, with grease and Loctite present and correct in all the necessary places out of the box.
The pivots use mostly standard bearing sizes and standard tools for working on them. They're also sealed, meaning that when I did take the bike apart, just to understand how it’s put together, the bearings were clean and free from any dirt or moisture. Most of the pivot hardware holds pretty well in the frame too, meaning that you generally don’t need three pairs of hands to work on it. The upper link to mainframe pivot does use some really thin washers though, so don’t go losing them.
The lower link to rear triangle pivot uses a collet system. An 8 mm hex tightens the pivot in and a 5 mm tightens the wedge to lock the axle from coming loose. A threaded insert on the drive side keys into the frame and where possible Antidote removed the threads from the large moulded frame parts and put them in something smaller and more easily replaced.
The top link is a three-piece affair that needs unbolting before it can be removed. The lower link is a bit fiddlier to get out of the bike but you don’t need a degree and it is by no means a regular thing to be doing.
All the pivots are easily accessible and can easily be whipped through when checking. The lower shock bolt is a bit hidden away, but removing the rear wheel and chunky velcroed on fender give better access. That fender doing a great job of stopping mud collecting around the shock area of the bike. It’s an easy bike to clean too with only the nooks and crannies around the shock being an area to keep an eye on, but like mentioned, that fender does a stellar job.
The lower shock mount does run on a standard bushing setup, although it’s found in the small extender due to the shock being turned. There’s a lifetime warranty for the original owner with 2 years on the paint finish and suspension bearings.
A brilliant user manual accompanies the Carbonjack with exploded diagrams and descriptions that cover the bearing codes, o-ring sizes, bolt thread and length specs and also all the torque ratings for all pivots and bolts. Also included is a full and detailed setup and checking procedure with information on how to mount the shocks through to setting up the suspension to Antidote’s recommendations, all with detailed descriptions and pictures or illustrations to help.
During the whole test period the Carbonjack 29 never missed a beat, with zero issues or niggling problems that needed special attention. It was a case of just grab it and ride every time I headed out. The attention to detail on the Carbonjack extends to the assembly of the bike, with grease and Loctite present and correct in all the necessary places out of the box.
The pivots use mostly standard bearing sizes and standard tools for working on them. They're also sealed, meaning that when I did take the bike apart, just to understand how it’s put together, the bearings were clean and free from any dirt or moisture. Most of the pivot hardware holds pretty well in the frame too, meaning that you generally don’t need three pairs of hands to work on it. The upper link to mainframe pivot does use some really thin washers though, so don’t go losing them.
The lower link to rear triangle pivot uses a collet system. An 8 mm hex tightens the pivot in and a 5 mm tightens the wedge to lock the axle from coming loose. A threaded insert on the drive side keys into the frame and where possible Antidote removed the threads from the large moulded frame parts and put them in something smaller and more easily replaced.
The top link is a three-piece affair that needs unbolting before it can be removed. The lower link is a bit fiddlier to get out of the bike but you don’t need a degree and it is by no means a regular thing to be doing.
All the pivots are easily accessible and can easily be whipped through when checking. The lower shock bolt is a bit hidden away, but removing the rear wheel and chunky velcroed on fender give better access. That fender doing a great job of stopping mud collecting around the shock area of the bike. It’s an easy bike to clean too with only the nooks and crannies around the shock being an area to keep an eye on, but like mentioned, that fender does a stellar job.
The lower shock mount does run on a standard bushing setup, although it’s found in the small extender due to the shock being turned. There’s a lifetime warranty for the original owner with 2 years on the paint finish and suspension bearings.
A brilliant user manual accompanies the Carbonjack with exploded diagrams and descriptions that cover the bearing codes, o-ring sizes, bolt thread and length specs and also all the torque ratings for all pivots and bolts. Also included is a full and detailed setup and checking procedure with information on how to mount the shocks through to setting up the suspension to Antidote’s recommendations, all with detailed descriptions and pictures or illustrations to help.
177 Comments
Best kind of bike out there.
small production european bike aka BOUTIQUE cost less than mass produced made in china us boutique??
(Cue the downvotes and the 'it's totally worth it because it's a lot better bike than the ones from 10 years ago!)
Could have some sweet features like is 10 tyre repair patches too much? How big a crack in your frame before it fails? Suspension is for wimps etc etc
I'll get my coat...
My buddy said that one day.........then he got married
When companies keep making interrupted seat tubes with rather slack actual numbers, no wonder a 190cm tall person will end up with their seat up to 20mm further back than a shorter or to put it in other terms: a normal person. Stacks and Bb drop combos of most bikes these days put saddle very close to stack height level for people that are the representatives of average male population at 175cm. Count in Billions of Asians who are generally shorter by up to 5cm by average... Tall people will always end up with actual seat position at an effective angle 1-2 degrees slacker than what the manufacturer given effective seat angle is.
I propose that bikes in Large, Xlarge and XXLarge should have proportionally steeper seat angles than those in S and M.
I don’t think it necessarily has to effect other geo figures. But then I’m short so hitting my levers with my knees is unlikely even at 420mm reach/ 77°
I would really like to know, from those affected by the brake point, where you ride, the weather, temperature and elevation.
I live in the tropics and where I live, I don't get much elevation, so I do not get affected by it much. "Much" coz when I travel to somewhere colder and above 2000m above sea level, that's where I get some issue with the bite point - though not enough to be a problem.
It’s a problem that occurs when using Shimano mineral oil which is what they recommend.
I live in the UK and only rarely at any decent elevation and have still had the problem.
Shimano are meant to have amazing precision and build quality but we’ve had this problem with several generations of Zee, Saint, Deore, XT and XTR in our household and it’s got to the point where I’ve pissed off and refuse to fit them to any of our bikes. Which is a shame as apart from this we’ve found them to perform exactly as we like them.
Off topics sorta.. Can shimano brakes be rock solid on one bike and be spongy on another? I have xtr race 9000s and totally, amazingly rock solid on one bike then on a different bike spongy then perfect back on the original bike. I don't get why this would be.
My somewhat-observed theory being that it prevents the fluid from retracting into the cylinder properly, which results in the pistons being extended still and is why the second pull of the lever feels different and engages quicker.
The best bleed I've found that gets the most consistent results is the one published by the Santa Cruz mechanic (www.youtube.com/watch?v=piWBVDh1pTE). Anything else results in too much pressure or fluid in the system, which aggravates the problem.
I've had plenty of people say they didn't have this problem, but if I got on their bikes and pulled the lever in quick succession, it eventually shows up when it's cold out. I just think some people brake differently and may not notice it. I haven't experimented with different fluids, though.
The alternative is that lots of professional reviewers just don't know how to bleed some sets of Shimano brakes. I can't say it's impossible, but my own experience has been that some sets do it, some don't. Sounds like yours work well.
Other than this, whoever doubts this to be an issue can ask any bike mechanic with longer experience, who has seen hundreds of them and heard from hundreds of clients how are their brakes doing. Yes you can perform a rain dance, fill them with CBD oil and they may work great. Yes they may work great after a “proper bleed” definition of which is extremely blurry across shaman community. The matter of a fact is that most other brakes do not suffer from this particular problem. And we are speaking about weekend warriors getting this issue consistently not park rats smashing near thousand of laps per year.
Park rats don't use brakes much. Source. Used to be park rat.
1. Remove Shimano brakes
2. Install Hayes Dominions
I can confirm - use putoline 2.5 (or similar) and the wbp-issue is solved.
In Germany this solution is very popular since quite long, I wonder why it seemingly didn't make it into the rest of the world yet...
"Suspension travel doesn't weigh anything" - Paul Aston.
But there was a 3-4 year dev cycle between the CJ and CJ29. So let’s assume they keep the same suspension layout on the DM29, I would expect an announcement Q4 2021 or Q1 2022.
I think the CJ29 is their best looking bike. But the DM just feels the best to ride. Glad I have both.
I actually wish they updated their peace maker. It was their 4 cross bike. Like if they had an aggressive hardtail or a dirt jumper.
Still planning on buying their next frame no matter what. Though, I might go with a custom paint job instead of blackout and raw carbon.
Not a total different bike, just V2
Then again, I'm from much flatter terrain, so I might find this bike much more suited to me.
Welcome to 2021! I have a hard time accepting it too my friend.
It’s only going to get worse as the seat post width widens and forks like the Fox 38/ Rockshox Zeb get spec’ed on more trail/ enduro bikes bikes.
For what’s it worth, I really like this bike, it’s a great all mountain bike.
Just ride the thing and tell me how it made you feel.
Thanks Dan!
Well I'll be damned, I think this might be the bike for me!
Oh man!
How does it compare to Propain Tyee (and/or Hugene)?
@PROPAIN-Bicycles
Could you send Dan's way one or the other?
Pinkbike's take: "And the category that Antidote puts the Carbonjack in is the “enduro race weapon” category."
that bike is sexy though, but a rear wheel that goes rigid on descents when you even think about the rear brake lever, is a no go...
www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcfuAlkz4H0
that is a bike with zero brake jack. the caliper stays perfectly clocked to the rotor. 100% isolated.
i just got a new bike a couple of month back which is finally long enough in reach numbers for me to descend comfortable (490). the effective seattube angle is 77.1. And i am still very streched out while seated and have the feeling i am pedalling from the back as soon as the uphills get steep. Plus i already have the seat as much slammed forward as possible and run a 35mm short stem. so the seattube angle could be way steeper befor i feel cramped between seat and handlebars.
If you “need” 490mm to descend, it’s not the geometry that’s bad...
Riders have been descending with less for decades...
Some of us still descend with less...
My profile is that I am after a bike that is easy to pick up off the ground, I don’t require it from folks to aspire to this either. I like one that is easy to throw around in the air, dh tires make it hard enough. I ride with faster people, who tend to have DH bikes with them. I have zero aspirations to stay on their back since it’s... pointless. They will ride away anyways
i dont however think that the reach numbers are the most important aspect of bike-fit. its more the balance of front and rear center length. i could also ride a bit shorter bike and be comfortable. however with the ever growing chanistays i felt far more comfortable on a longer bike. i do ride with more load on the front of the bike and dont like to hang on the back of the bike. so my last bike with longer chanistays combined with shorter front center unweighted the rear wheel so much that it forced me to lean back all the time. with my new bike this is no longer the case and my natural neutral position puts me very nicely centered beetween the two wheels.
As to your take on reach, I do think it is mainly down to bike fit, because why would you have it longer than you need? Unless you take it from the CS perspective and you say "I want 470mm chainstays" although neither Geometron nor Pole have such long ones. Ironically when I checked Pole Machine in XL, it has a very similar weight balance to most "mainstream" bikes, like 35/65% whereas their claims would suggest getting closer to 40/60 would be desireable.
Now let's talk tires. Yes longer bike is more stable, but so is a bike with heavier tires. Furthermore heavier tires provide more damping to the whole system. Inertia and sidewall stability does quite a lot. And I use heavy tires with inserts gladly even with lots of climbing planned, while I rarely meet people who do it. It may be one of reasons why I rarely experience issues with stability. If we go to the other side of the spectrum, XC bikes - Folks use slim tires with little knobs, they make it straight down impossible to utilize aggressive geometry. I know some put Minions on 100-120mm bikes... It's an utterly bizarre way of thinking to me - someone bought a short travel bike for it to be more efficient - why would they use heavier and more importantly - slow rolling tires?! I guarantee - locked out Stumpjumper on Ikons rides up faster than Epic on Minions. There is a evident difference in rolling speed when you change even the rear tire to a semi slick. I always shake my head when I see Trek Fuel EX on Minions or better: high rollers which roll slower than minions DHF... Hence I see little point in going extra long for XC bikes.
And here we come to another thing. Really tall people 190cm+ possibly should ride 32" wheels, at least on trail and XC bikes. In order to fit a 32" tire in the rear, 450 stays are enough. Why Emily Batty at 161cm rides same wheels as MVDP at 181? Who is on a wrong bike? Her or him?
my current bike is a propain tyee 29er size XL. i tested the different sizes and than choose to size up. as mentioned the main reason for this was the balance in the bike. the chainstays while not overly long are still pretty long for my taste (445mm). And as the chainstaylengths are the same for all sizes for me the smaller sizes were just not fitting. my last bike that i rode befor that was the 2019 commencal clash size L. here the chainstays were only 435mm however compared with a short reach of 467. i had to take a very rearward riding position to balance out the weightdistribution. i could never get really comfy on that bike.
however as you mention i actually do feel that my new longer bike takes way more effort to bunnyhop. and without knowing for sure i think i can not bunnyhop it nearly as high.
befor corona i tested various bikes regularly on our anual testival here. last time i did so i tested a bike that i instantly felt at home on: the pivot firebird 29 in size L wich also was a perfect fit for me. it combines 475 reach with very short 429 chainstays. (unfortunately its stupidly expensive here and has no place for a waterbottle so i decided against buying one)
so again for me its not longer reach equals better or something like this. instead i figured out that bike sizing for me is much more a matter of balance between front and rear.
i think for my next bike i will try to have shorter chainstays again. However i am really satisfied with my current bike at the moment. (plus i am afraid by the time bikes are available again there probably arent any bikes with short chainstays left )